I        C.  p.  BASCOM, 

I  Doaler  in 

|BO()KS,STATin.\ERY, 

Wnll  Paper,  Winrlow  Phnrlps 
I  &c.,  &e.,  &c. 

62  Main  St.,  Princeton.  111. 


,umO,S  BSTOWC*^  SUKVEY 


/ 


'M^'^lSjOiixA 


BEYOND  THE  ATLANTIC 


OB 


ELEVEN  MONTHS  TOUR 


IM 


EUROPE,  EGYPT  AND  PALESTINE, 


WITH      ILLUSTRATIONS. 


By    N.    MATSON. 


PRINCETON,    ILLINOIS: 

REPUBLICAN   JOB    PRINTING    ESTABLISHMENT. 
1870. 


Entered  according  to  an  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1870,  by 

N.    MATSON, 

In  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  in  and  for 
the  Northern  District  of  Illinois. 


PKEFACE 


Of  late,  books  of  travel  have  been  increasing  at  a 
rapid  rate,  and  the  public  taste  for  that  kind  of  reading 
has  proportionately  increased.  Each  succeeding  traveler 
views  things  in  a  different  light,  being  inspired  with 
new  ideas,  thereby  furnishing  the  reader  with  some 
important  facts  which  have  been  overlooked  by  his 
predecessoi's. 

These  pages  were  written  from  notes  taken  among 
the  scenes  which  they  describe,  and  only  treat  of  objects 
coming  under  the  writer's  own  observation.  It  will  be 
found  to  consist  principally  of  short  descriptions  of 
places;  and  fticts  alone  are  given,  without  the  opinions 
or  impressions  of  the  writer,  leaving  the  readers  to  draw 
their  own  conclusions.  This  work  will  be  found  to 
differ  from  other  books  of  travel,  inasmuch  as  it  is 
composed    of  sketches,    under  separate  heads.     Each 


vi  PREFACE. 

article  is  conclusive  in  itself,  and  can  be  read  without 
doing  injustice  to  other  parts  of  the  chapter.  At  the 
same  time,  each  connects  with  the  others,  so  as  to  form 
a  continuous  chain. 

These  sketches  embrace  the  observations  made  during 
an  eleven  months  tour,  and  over  a  distance  of  more  than 
twenty-five  thousand  miles ;  consequently  the  description 
of  places  and  things,  must  necessarily  be  brief  This 
could  not  be  otherwise,  without  extending  these  pages 
far  beyond  their  present  limits,  thereby  making  the 
enterprise  pecuniarily  a  hazardous  one. 

The  public  will  bear  in  mind,  that  this  work  makes 
no  claim  as  a  literary  production,  and  is  simply 
designed  to  give  a  plain  statement  of  facts.  It  is  hoped 
that  the  reader  will  view  it  from  this  standpoint, 
without  taking  exceptions  to  the  plainness  of  the 
style  in  which  these  facts  are  presented. 

N.   MATSON. 

Princeton,  February  1st,  1870. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 


Along  the  Clyde,     -            -            -            -  -       14 

Antwerp,      -----  47 

Amsterdam,       -             -             -             -  -       54 

Arab  Marriage  Customs,     -             -             -  238 

"     Life  in  the  Country,         -             -  -     233 

Alexandria,  City  of,             -             -             -  202 

"           Curiosities  of,        -             -  -     204 

Belgium,  Account  of,     -             -             -             -  42 

Brussels,             -             -             -             -  -       44 

Berlin,           -----  70 

Baden  Baden,    -             -             -             -  -       83 

"           "      Surroundings  of,        -             -  86 

Bruning  Pass,   -             -             -             -  -       98 

Barnese  Oberlands,              -             -             -  108 

Berne,  City  of,                ....  109 

"     to  Geneva,     -             -             -             -  110 

Bethlehem, 287 

"           Road  to,              ...  285 

"           Surroundings,  of,    -             -  -     289 


Vlll 

COPEVHAGEN,        -----  64 

Chamouni,  Valley  and  Village  of,        -            -     123 

Col.  De  Balme         -             -  -             -           126 

Crossing  the  Appennines,  -             -             -     141 

Church  of  St.  Peter,  Rome,  -             -       '    158 

Catania,               -             -  -             -             -     192 

Cairo  Grand,  City  of,            -  -             -           210 

*'           "       Sights  in,  -             -             -     113 

"           "       Road  to,         -  -             -           206 

"        Old,  and  Island  of   Roda,         -  -     230 

Cheops,  Ascent  of,                _  .             _           223 

Crossing  the  Atlantic,  -             -             -     306 

Denmark,  Tour  through,            -  -             -             61 

Dresden,  City  of,           -  -             -             -       71 

Donkeys,  and  Donkey  Boys,  -             -           217 

Dance  on  the  Mountain,  .             _             _     io4 

England,  Tour  through,            -  -             -             25 

Egyptian  Customs,        -  -             -             -     236 

Edinburgh,     -           -             -  -             -             17 

Excursion  to  Jericho  and  Dead  Sea,    -             -     280 

FRANKPORT-OiSr-THE-MAIN                -  -                 -                  76 

Florence,  City  of,           -  -             -             -     144 

View  of,                 -  -             -           146 

Forcloz  Pass,     -             -  -             -             -     122 

Fiesole,  Ruins  of,     -             -  -             -           149 

France,  Tour  through,  -             -             -     301 

Glasgow,             -             -             -  -             -             15 

Germany,  Brief  account  of,  -             -             -       73 

"         Tour  through,      -  -             -             75 

Glaciers,  Tour  among,    -  -             -             -     lOl 


IX 


Grindelwold,  Glaciers,  and  Village  of,       -  106 

Geneva,  City  of,            -             -  -             -     1 1 1 

"         Lake  of,  and  surroundings,  -           113 

Gorge  of  Trient,           -             -  -             -     117 

General  Remarks  on  Europe,           -  -           200 

Gibeon,  Ai,  and  Gilbah,  Ruins  of,  -             -     294 

Holland,  Brief  account  of        -             -  -             49 

Hague,                -             -             -  -             -       53 

Hamburg,  City  of,                 -             -  -             -56 

Hanover,  Tour  through,            -  -             -       57 

Homburg,     -             -             -             -  -              ^ ' 

Herculaneum,  Ruins  of,             -  -             -     180 

Howling  Dervishes,              -             -  -           215 

Heliopolis,  or  City  of  the  Sun,  -             -     227 

Heidelburg,  City  and  Castle,           -  -             81 

Hospice  at  St  Bernard,  View  of,  -             -     120 

Homeward  Bound,                -             -  -           303 

Ireland,  Tour  through,       -             -  -             -       21 

Italy,  Southern,       -             -             -  -           187 

JoppA,  Landing  at,               -             -  -             -     246 

«     City  of,      -----  247 

Jerusalem,  City  of,        -             -  -             -     255 

"          Road  to,               -             -  -           251 

«          Sights  of,      -             -  -             -     261 

"          Traditionary  places,       -  -           263 

"           Surroundings  of,      -  -             -     272 

"          View  of,              -             -  -           259 

London,  An  account  of,       -             -  -             -       26 

a                ct              t<             "                      .                  -  -                804 

"        Tower  of,                 ...  -       31 


Leaving  for  the  Continent,  -            -             34 

Lubeek,  City  of,            -  -             -             -       59 

Lucerne,  Lake  of,     -             -  -             -             93 

City  of,             -  -             -             -       97 

Loreto,          -             -             -  -             -         -  142 

Leper's  Quarters,         .  .             .             -       262 

Lombardy,  Plains  of,     -  -             -             -     134 

Mistaken  Identity,                -  -             -             66 

Maurice  St.,        -             -  -             -             -     115 

Martigny,                    -             -  -             -            118 

Milan,                  -             -  -             -             -     123 

Murderer,  The,         -             -  .             -           194 

Malta,  Island  of,             -  -             -             -     197 

Memphis,  Noph  of  Scripture,  -             -           229 

Mount  Moriah,               -  -             -             -     266 

Mosque  of  Omar,  View  of,  -             -               2 

N'lLE  Valley,              -             -  -             -             -     208 

"     View  of,      -----  232 

Naples,                -             -  -             -             -     167 

Neby  Mt.,  Visit  to,               .  .             .           292 

Paris,  Brief  account  of,       -  -             -             -       36 

Prussia,         .             .             -  -             .             68 

Perils  at  Sea,     -             -  -             -             -     199 

Pyramids,  and  Sphinx,         -  -             -           222 

Going  to,       -  -             -             -     219 

Petrified  Forest,  Visit  to,  '  -             -           226 

Pompeii,  Ruins  of,         -  -             -             -     182 

Palestine  as  it  now  appears,  -             -           277 

Rotterdam,              -             -  -             -             -       52 

Rhine  Valley,           -             -  -             -             79 


XI 

Rome,  City  of,                -  -             -             -     152 

"       Ruins  of,        -  -             -             -           161 

Red  Sea,             -             -  -             .             .     242 

Return  to  Europe,  -             -             -           297 

Scotland,  Southern,         _  _              _              _       16 

Switzerland,  Tour  through,  _              _              91 

Strasburg,      _              .  .              _              _       90 

Simplon   Pass,       _  _              _              _            127 

Sicily,              _              _  _              _              _     191 

Suez,  City  of,         _  _              .              _            240 

"      Isthmus  of,         _  .              _              _      248 

Sweden,    -              _  _              _              _              68 

Sharon,  Plains  of,       _  _              _              _     249 

Waterloo,  Battlefield,  -              _              _             46 

Venice,  City  of,           -  .              _              _     137 

Vesuvius  Mt.,  Visit  to,  .              _              _            173 


CHAPTER  I. 

On  the  tburth  day  of  March,  1868,  1  left  New  York 
on  the  steamship  Caledonia,  bound  for  Glasgow, 
Scotland.  The  passage,  although  a  rough  one,  was  void 
of  any  incident  worthy  of  note  until  the  twelfth  day, 
when  we  came  in  sight  of  the  mountains  which  adorn 
the  north-west  coast  of  Ireland  Off  the  port  of  Lon- 
donderry we  were  met  by  a  steamtug,  and  passengers 
and  mail  for  Ireland  were  taken  off!  Again  we  put  to 
sea,  and  180  miles  further,  including  a  sail  up  the 
Clyde,  brought  us  to  Glasgow.  As  soon  as  the  ship 
reached  the  wharf,  a  revenue  officer  came  aboard, 
followed  by  a  man  with  a  bucket  of  paste.  The 
officer  examined  our  baggage  and  finding  it  all  right, 
the  pasteman  would  stick  on  a  card  so  that  it  could  be 
taken  ashore.  The  only  articles  looked  for  were  liquor, 
tobacco,  and  American  reprints  of  English  copyrighted 
books.  The  latter  article  they  regard  as  a  kind  of 
literary  piracy  which  they  will  not  tolerate,  and  if  any 
such  works  are  found  they  are  committed  to  the  flames. 

At  a  proper  time  my  turn  came,  and  the  officer  with 
much  politeness  looked  over  my  traps,  but  finding  none 


14  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

of  these    contraband    articles  in  my  valise  it  received  a 
card  of  approval,  when  I  was  allowed  to  go  ashore. 


ALONG  THE  CLYDE. 

For  thirty  miles  below  Glasgow  along  the  river  Clyde, 
there  are  fine  cultivated  farms  presenting  a  beauty  of 
landscape  scenery  seldom  met  with  in  any  other  part  of 
the  world.  The  land  rises  gradually  from  the  river 
back  to  the  highlands,  and  this  slope  is  covered  with 
fine  farms  and  farm  houses,  including  many  beautiful 
palaces  occupied  by  Scottish  nobility.  Here  can  be 
seen  feeding  on  these  green  slopes  the  best  breeds  of 
horses,  cattle  and  sheep  met  with  in  any  part  of  Europe. 
And  here,  also,  are  seen  sporting  in  these  fields,  the 
large  English  rabbit,  of  various  colors,  from  coal  black, 
to  those  of  snowy  whiteness. 

Along  the  Clyde,  there  is  almost  one  continuous  vil- 
lage, wath  here  and  there  a  large  town  or  city ;  all  of 
which  are  largely  engaged  in  ship  building.  These 
ships  are  all  built  of  iron,  and  on  every  sea,  and  in  every 
port,  the  Clyde  vessels  are  seen.  On  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  twenty  miles  below  Glasgow,  is  the  city  of 
Greenock,  containing  50,000  inhabitants,  and  much 
celebrated  for  its  iron  factories  and  ship  yards.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  eight  miles  above  Greenock, 
stands  Dunbartin  Castle,  a  place  famous  in  Scottish 
history.  It  was  taken  from  the  English  by  Wallace, 
and  its  capture  is  regarded  as  the  greatest  exploit  in  the 
career  of  that  noted  warrior.     The  castle  is  built  on  a 


SCOTLAND.  15 

rock  which  stands  out  in  the  river,  and  is  now  occupied 
by  a  small  garrison. 

The  river  from  this  point  is  narrow,  with  shallow 
water,  and  can  only  be  navigated  by  vessels  of  heavy 
tonage  at  high  tide.  Dredging  machines  are  all  the 
while  employed  deepening  the  channel,  and  the  dirt  is 
taken  to  fill  up  bayous,  and  make  land  along  its  banks. 

GLASGOW. 

Next  to  London,  this  is  the  largest  city  on  the  British 
Isles,  and  contains  nearly  half  a  million  inhabitants. 
The  city  is  well  built,  with  wide  streets,  and  contains 
many  fine  squares  and  parks.  Its  houses  are  mostly 
high,  built  of  brown  stone,  and  much  blackened  by  coal 
smoke  which  gives  to  the  city  a  dark  and  gloomy 
appearance.  Glasgow  is  largely  engaged  in  manufac- 
turing iron  ware,  and  ship  building,  and  is  the  most 
commercial  place  in  Scotland.  It  contains  but  few 
attractions  for  strangers.  Although  its  history  dates 
back  to  the  sixth  century,  there  is  but  one  building  of 
note  which  makes  any  claim  to  antiquity,  and  that  is  the 
Glasgow  Cathedral.  This  is  a  fine,  massive  structure, 
and  by  the  date  on  its  walls  shows  that  the  first  church 
on  its  site  was  dedicated  in  the  sixth  century. 

On  a  high  and  beautiful  knoll,  east  of  the  Cathedral, 
is  located  the  old  cemetery  containing  many  monuments 
of  distinguished  men  who  lived  in  past  ages ;  the  highest 
and  most  conspicuous  of  which,  is  that  of  John  Knox, 
the  ffreat  reformer. 


16  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

SOUTHERN    SCOTLAND. 

A  person  traveling  through  this  country  will  be 
surprised  to  find  so  much  good  land,  and  under  so  high 
a  state  of  cultivation,  being  equal  to  the  best  gardens 
in  the  United  States.  Some  idea  of  the  product  of  a 
farm  may  be  formed,  when  we  consider  the  average 
rental  of  land  is  about  nine  dollars  per  acre.  And  with 
these  high  rents,  the  tenant's  lease,  which  in  most  cases 
is  perpetual,  will  sell  for  more  than  farms  in  Illinois. 
But  few  farmers  own  the  land  which  they  occupy,  as  it 
mostly  belongs  to  noblemen  whose  ancestors  obtained 
it  centuries  ago  through  the  old  feudal  rights.  This 
country  is  neither  level  nor  hilly,  but  undulating  and  is 
well  adapted  for  farming  purposes.  All  of  the  public 
roads  are  narrow,  not  exceeding  twenty  feet,  and  are 
macadamized  with  limestone.  There  is  but  little  timber 
in  the  country ;  more  or  less  young  trees  are  seen  on 
every  farm,  but  they  are  more  for  ornament  than  use, 
and  the  only  native  forest  trees  are  seen  in  the  parks  of 
noblemen.  The  fencing  is  composed  of  either  stone 
or  hedge,  the  buildings  are  constructed  mostly  of 
stone,  and  wooden  buildings  are  not  seen  in  this  country. 

Almost  every  part  of  southern  Scotland  is  identified 
with  the  history  of  past  ages,  and  in  traveling  through 
it  a  person  will  see  many  places  where  great  events 
have  occurred.  A  short  distance  from  Glasgow  is 
located  the  old  Douglas  Castle,  a  place  famous  in 
Scottish  history,  now  occupied  by  a  descendant  of 
the    great    Douglases    of    former     times,     known     as 


SCOTLAND.  17 

Duke  of  Hamilton.  Here  is  a  large  park  of  native 
forest  trees,  containing  fountains,  artificial  lakes,  and 
flower  gardens.  And  in  this  park  can  be  seen  the 
different  kinds  of  deer,  as  well  as  a  large  herd  of  native 
wild  cattle,  with  their  long  black  horns  and  shaggy 
hair.  Close  by  this  castle  was  fought  the  great  battle 
of  Bothwell  Bridge. 

Twenty-six  miles  west  of  Edinburgh  we  came  to  the 
old  city  of  Falkirk,  which  is  of  great  historical  celebrity. 
One-half  mile  west  of  the  town  in  the  beautiful  fields 
now  covered  with  grain,  is  where  Wallace  fought  his 
last  battle,  and  by  the  treachery  of  one  of  his  men  was 
defeated,  captured,  carried  to  London,  and  executed  on 
Tower  Hill.  On  the  east  side  of  the  city  the  place  was, 
pointed  out  where  Charles  III.  Avas  defeated  in  the  last 
battle  fought  by  the  Stuarts,  for  the  crown  of  England. 

Thirteen  miles  east  of  Falkirk,  is  still  to  be  seen  the 
Palace  and  Abbey  of  Linlithgrow,  the  birthplace  of 
Queen  Mary.  These  buildings  stand  on  high  ground 
by  the  side  of  a  small  lake,  and  are  now  in  a  state  of 
ruins.  The  massive  walls  are  still  standing,  which  show 
them  to  have  been  fine  specimens  of  architectural  skill. 

EDINBURGH. 

The  city  of  Edinburgh  is  very  remarkable  in  its  loca- 
tion, its  limits  extending  over  hill,  valley  and  plain. 

Adjoining  it,  on  two  sides  are  fine  cultivated  farms, 
while  on  the  others  rest  Col  ton  Hill,  and  Saulsbury 
crags  ;  with  the  city  of  Leith  extending  to  the  bay,  two 


18  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

miles  distant.  It  has  a  population  of  205,000,  and  con- 
tains many  fine  colleges  and  seminaries.  For  the  British 
Isles  it  is  considered  the  seat  of  learning,  as  well  as  the 
cradle  of  fine  arts.  The  city  consists  of  two  parts — the 
old  and  new  town — divided  by  a  deep  valley.  This 
valley  at  one  time  contained  an  artificial  lake,  which 
was  used  for  sailing  pleasure  boats  ;  but  a  large  part  of 
it  is  now  used  as  a  railroad  station;  the  road  passing 
from  it  through  tunnels  under  the  city.  This  plan  of 
railroads  passing  under  a  city  instead  of  through  it,  is 
very  common  in  this  country.  From  the  station  the 
street  is  reached  by  ascending  long  flights  of  stone 
steps,  and  in  places  streets  pass  over  this  valley  by 
means  of  stone  bridges,  on  which  houses  are  built. 

South  of  this  valley  lies  the  old  town,  built  on  a  hill- 
side, one  street  rising  above  another,  giving  to  it  a  l)old 
and  imposing  appearance.  The  houses  are  built  with 
brown  stone,  many  of  which  arc  eight,  and  some  ten 
stories  high.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  old  town,  and  on 
a  high  cliff  of  rocks  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above 
the  bay,  overlooking  the  city  and  surrounding  country, 
stands  Edinburgh  Castle,  a  fortification  famous  in  history. 

There  is  but  one  entrance  to  this  castle,  which  is  across 
a  moat  by  a  drawbridge.  At  all  other  places  it  is  guarded 
by  a  high  wall,  built  on  cliffs  of  rocks,  and  is  now 
occupied  by  a  regiment  of  soldiers.  In  this  castle  is  to 
l>e  seen  the  mammoth  gun,  called  Mons  Meg^  famous  in 
history.  It  is  of  great  length,  twenty-four  inches  in  the 
bore,  and  is  made  of  thick  bars  of  iron  hooped  together. 
Tlie  inscription    on   its  carriage,   says   it   was   made   at 


SCOTLAND.  19 

Brittainy,  in  the  year  1476,  and  employed  at  the  seige 
of  Naham  Castle  in  1513.  In  1682  it  burst  while  firing 
a  salute  in  honor  of  a  visit  from  the  Duke  of  York. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  castle  is  the  crown-room 
containing  the  insignia  of  Scottish  royalty,  among  w^hich 
is  a  crown,  a  sceptre,  a  sw^ord  of  state,  and  the  Loi-d 
Treasurer's  rod  of  office,  all  of  which  are  made  of  gold. 

This  regalia  has  been  worn  at  the  time  of  crowning 
every  king  of  Scotland,  from  David  I.  to  James  VI. 

On  the  ground  floor  of  this  wing  of  the  castle,  is 
Queen  Mary's  room,  w^here  the  unfortunate  Queen  was 
kept  while  a  prisoner  in  the  castle,  and  in  this  room,  she 
gave  birth  to  James  YL,  in  whom  the  crown  of  England 
and  Scotland  were  united.  On  the  east  side  of  this  room 
is  the  w^indow  from  which  the  young  prince  was  let 
down  in  a  basket  suspended  by  a  rope,  and  was  received 
by  friends  below^,  who  conveyed  him  to  Stirling  Castle, 
where  he  was  baptized  in  the  Catholic  faith.  When 
this  window^  was  opened,  I  looked  down  from  the  giddy 
hight  of  two  hundred  and  forty-two  feet,  and  thought 
hoAV  few^  mothers  there  were,  who  would  risk  their 
infants  but  eight  days  old,  in  such  a  place. 

From  the  castle  we  went  down  High  street,  our  guide 
pointing  out  buildings  on  most  every  block,  associated 
with  Scottish  history.  Among  other  places  were  St. 
Giles  church  and  the  old  parliment  house.  On  this 
street  is  the  Knox  house,  w^here  lived  and  died  the  great 
reformer  of  whom  Queen  Mary  once  said :  she  feared 
his  face  more  than  all  the  armies  of  England.  This 
house,  according  to  the  date  on  its  walls,  w-as  built  in 


20  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

1490.  The  lower  part  of  it  is  now  used  as  a  grocery, 
while  the  upper  part  is  exhibited  to  the  public,  and  con- 
tains the  furniture  of  its  former  occupant.  Fronting 
the  door  of  the  second  story  is  a  stone  platform,  surrounded 
by  an  iron  railing,  from  which  it  is  said,  Knox  frequently 
preached  to  the  people  in  the  street.  Xearly  opposite 
the  Knox  house  is  the  Tweeddale  Court,  where  once 
lived  the  Marquis  of  Tweeddale ;  and  it  was  at  the 
entrance  of  this  mansion,  that  the  misterious  murder  of 
Bigbie  occurred. 

At  the  east  side  of  the  city,  and  on  Hat  land,  which  is 
almost  on  a  level  with  the  bay  is  situated  the  palace  of 
Holyrood,  the  former  residence  of  Scottish  royalty.  The 
grounds  around  this  palace  are  very  beautiful,  being 
ornamented  with  shade  trees  and  ilower  gardens,  and 
enclosed  by  an  iron  fence  twelve  feet  high.  This  palace 
is  built  of  brown  stone,  very  large,  and  contains  an  open 
court  in  the  center,  ninety  feet  square.  The  east  wing 
is  not  open  to  visitors,  being  fitted  uj)  for  loyal  guests, 
and  is  the  home  of  Queen  Victoria,  when  she  visits 
Edinburgh.  The  picture  gallery  is  the  1  argest  apartment 
in  the  palace,  and  on  its  walls  are  suspended  the  portraits 
of  one  hundred  and  six  kings  of  Scotland,  from  Furgus 
I.  who  reigned  (B.  C.  330),  to  James  VI. 

Queen  Marj'^'s  apartments  are  the  most  interesting  of 
the  palace,  and  remain  the  same  as  when  last  occupied 
by  the  unfortunate  Queen.  After  passing  through  tht- 
audience-  room  we  entered  the  Queen's  bedchamber, 
which  contains  lier  bed,  as  well  as  various  articles  of 
her  furniture,  all  of  which  have  an  ancient   appearance. 


IRELAND.  21 

On  one  side  of  this  room  is  the  door  through  which 
the  conspirators  entered,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is 
the  cabinet  where  they  found  their  victim  Riccio. 
Regardless  of  the  tears  and  entreaties  of  the  Q.ueen, 
the  unfortunate  secretary  was  dragged  into  the  au- 
dience room,  and  there  dispatched  with  daggers.  The 
exact  spot  where  this  occurred  is  pointed  out  by  the 
keeper  of  these  rooms,  and  he  never  forgets  to  show  the 
visitors  the  stains  of  blood,  still  on  the  floor,  where 
Riccio  fell. 

Adjoining  the  palace  is  the  oldHolyrood  Abbey,  built 
in  1128,  but  now  in  a  state  of  ruin.  The  walls  alone 
are  still  standing,  and  within  its  walls  are  the  tombs  of 
many  of  the  kings  of  Scotland,  as  well  as  other  distin- 
guished men  of  past  ages. 

IRELAND. 

Having  sailed  over  one  hundred  miles,  along  the 
northern  coast  of  Ireland,  I  had  a  fine  view  of  the  Giants 
Causeway,  and  Port  Rush,  which  is  the  entrance  to  Lon- 
donderry, as  well  as  many  other  places  of  interest.  The 
scenery  along  this  coast  is  very  picturesque  with  cliftsof 
rocks  in  many  places  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  wa- 
ters edge,  and  back  of  which,  are  rocky,  barren  mountains, 
without  a  tree  or  shrub,  and  in  some  places  without  a 
single  habitation.  But  it  is  very  different  in  the  interior 
of  the  country  where  the  land  is  mostly  level,  and  under 
a  high  state  of  cultivation.  In  some  places  are  seen 
tine  farm  buildings  surrounded  by  parks  or  fruit  trees, 


22  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

which  belong  to,  and  are  occupied  by  wealthy  Irish 
gentlemen.  But  the  larger  portion  of  the  land  belongs 
to  noblemen  who  live  in  England,  and  Avho  exact  every 
farthing  they  can  get  from  the  poor  tenants,  leaving 
them  scarcely  enough  to  live  on.  If  the  tenant  plants 
a  tree  he  dare  not  cut  it  down,  and  if  he  keeps  a  dog  he 
has  to  tie  him  up  so  the  rabbits  (which  are  claimed  by 
the  landlord)  will  not  be  molested.  The  fencing  here 
consists  of  hedge,  and  the  tenant  houses  are  mostly  mud 
hovels  covered  with  thatch. 

I  visited  the  city  of  Belfast,  which  city  is  situated  at 
the  head  of  the  bay,  ten  miles  from  the  Irish  sea,  and  is 
built  on  flat  land  which  rises  only  a  few  feet  above  tide 
water.  On  the  east  side  of  the  city  are  mountains  which 
are  without  trees,  or  vegetation  of  any  kind,  while  on  the 
west  side  are  fine,  cultivated  farms.  Belfast  contains 
120,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  greatest  linen  manufac- 
turing city  in  the  world.  Linen  Hall  occupies  a  large 
square,  and  through  it  most  of  the  wholesale  linen  trade 
is  carried  on.  I  went  through  one  appartment  of  this 
hall,  which  is  three  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  where 
linen  thread  was  piled  up  on  either  side  almost  to  the 
ceiling. 

The  railroad  running  south  from  Belfast,  passes  through 
a  very  rich  country  where  there  are  many  fine  towns  and 
cities.  On  tliis  road  we  passed  the  battle  field  of  Boyne, 
where  James  II.  met  William  III.,  and  on  this  field  was 
decided,  and  sealed  the  fate  of  the  Stuart  family  to  the 
throne  of  England.  A  monument  is  here  erected  to 
commemorate  that  event. 


IRE  L  AIT  D.  23 

Dublin,  the  Irish  capital,  contains  a  population  of 
250.000,  and  is  well  built,  with  wide  streets,  and 
high  houses,  many  of  which  are  coated  with  marble  ; 
and  the  general  appearance  of  the  city  is  pleasing  and 
attractive.  The  city  contains  great  wealth,  and  along 
its  principal  streets,  are  seen  crowds  of  well  dressed 
men  and  women,  whose  manners  and  personal  appearance 
show  a  high  state  of  refinement,  unsurpassed  by  any 
other  city  in  Europe.  Probably  there  is  no  city  on  the 
British  Isles,  where  the  English  language  is  so  correctly 
spoken  as  here.  The  broad  Irish  brogue  can  scarcely 
be  noticed  among  the  better  classes  Here  in  Dublin, 
as  well  as  other  cities  of  Ireland,  the  Irish  jilting  carts 
are  in  common  use,  and  have  almost  taken  the  place  of 
the  cab. 

The  Prince  of  Wales,  was  on  a  visit  to  Dublin 
during  the  time  I  was  there,  and  the  streets,  and 
public  buildings  were  decorated  with  flags  in  honor 
of  his  visit.  I  saw  the  Prince  pass  through  the 
street  in  an  open  car  riage,  drawn  by  six  horses, 
with  a  groom  riding  each  horse.  Other  carriages 
containing  noblemen  followed,  and  preceding  the 
procession,  was  a  company  of  dragoons,  and  all  went 
on  a  gallop. 

While  I  was  in  Dublin,  George  F.  Train,  of  Fenian 
notoriety  was  arrested,  and  thrown  in  prison  for  a  debt 
contracted  some  time  before,  on  a  purchase  of  railroad 
iron.  One  of  Train's  creditors  who  had  just  returned 
from  holding  a  conference  with  him,  said  to  me,  that 
Train    acknowledged    that   the    claim,    both    principal 


24  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

and  interest,  was  just,  but  said  it  was  contrary  to  his 
principle,  to  pay  interest,  and  contrary  to  his  interest 
to  pay  principal;  consequently  he  could  not  liquidate 
the  debt  without  injuring  both  his  conscience  and 
finances. 


CHAPTER  II. 


ENGLAND. 


After  spending  a  few  days  in  Dublin,  we  took  passage 
for  Liverpool,  and  had  a  pleasant  sail  across  the  Irish  Sea. 
The  steamer  on  which  we  were  passengers  had  on  board 
some  three  hundred  Irish  laborers,  on  their  way  to  Eng- 
land, These  people  were  poorly  clad,  and  their  baggage 
consisted  of  small  packages  tied  up  in  bandana  hand- 
kerchiefs, which  they  carried  under  their  arms.  Not- 
withstanding their  poverty,  I  never  met  with  a  more 
jolly  set  of  fellows,  and  their  merry  songs  and  witty 
jokes,  kept  the  cabin  passengers  all  the  while  in  a  roar 
of  laughter.  On  the  deck  of  the  ship,  they  had  an  Irish 
dance,  and  having  crowded  on  one  side,  caused  the  vessel 
to  keel  over  so  as  to  take  in  water.  The  officers  tried 
in  vain  to  disburse  them,  but  the  noise  of  the  fiddle  and 
bagpipe,  together  with  the  rattling  of  the  feet  of  the 
dancers,  drowned  all  other  noise.  At  this  crisis  the 
captain  threw  from  the  hurricane  deck  a  peice  of  old 
carpet  down  on  the  heads  of  the  musicians,  which  broke 


26  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

up  the  dance,  and  caused  the  crowd  to  separate.     As  we 
sailed  up  the  Mersey,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Liverpool  with 
its  harbor  and  docks,  presenting  a  forest  of  masts  probably 
unequalled  in  any  other  city  in  the  world,  excepting  New 
York.     Liverpool  has  a  black,  smoky  appearance,*  being 
asreatmanufacturin<2^,  as  well  as  a  commercial  city;  but 
contains  very  few  attractions  for  a  stranger.     After  re- 
maining one  day  here,  we  took  the  cars  for  London,  two 
hundred  and  two  miles  distant.     The  country  between 
these  points,  is  very  fine,  being  a  continuation  of  well 
cultivated  farms,  with  fine  stone  farm  houses,  and  hedge 
fences.     There  is  no  timber  here  except  ornamental  trees 
and  parks  belonging  to  noblemen  ;    and  the  land  is  level, 
highly  cultivated,   and    so    densely    populated,  that    it 
appears  like  one  continuous  village. 

A  person  from  the  United  States,  in  traveling  through 
this  country,  will  be  surprised  at  its  smallness,  in 
comparison  to  our  own  as  a  few  hours  only  are 
required  by  railroad  to  travel  across  it  from  sea,  to  sea. 
A  Yankee,  on  visiting  England,  said  the  island  was  so 
small  that  he  was  afraid  to  turn  around,  as  he  would  be 
in  danger  of  stepping  ofi"  into  the  ocean. 


LONDON. 


The  city  of  London  is   located   mostly  on   the   north 
side  of  the   Thames,  and  is   twelve  miles  in  length,  by 
nine  in  breadth,  and  contains  over  three  million  inhabi- 
tants, being  about  one-fifth  of  the  whole   population  of 
England.     The  old  town,  or  city   proper  is  but  a  small 


ENGLAND.  27 

portion  of  London,  although  most  of  the  business  is  done 
there.  The  streets  in  this  part  of  the  city  are  mostly 
narrow  and  crooked,  many  of  which  are  merely  alleys, 
not  wide  enough  foi*  two  carriages  to  pass  each  other. 
There  are  a  few  streets  of  reasonable  width  which  are 
the  great  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  and  during  business 
hours  show  as  much  activity  as  Broadway  New  York. 
Most  of  the  houses  are  built  of  brick,  and  have  a  black 
dirty  appearance.  The  white  stone  fronts,  look  as 
though  they  were  coated  Avith  tar,  caused  by  the  burning 
of  soft  coal.  London  was  at  onetime  a  walled  city,  and 
two  of  its  gates  are  still  standing,  with  a  small  portion 
of  its  wall.  But  from  being  a  city  hemmed  in  by  walls, 
it  has  expanded  in  all  directions,  forming  connection 
with  other  places,  and  absorbing  towns  and  villages  for 
miles  around. 

There  are  no  street  cars  here,  the  width  of  the  streets 
not  admitting  them,  but  there  are  underground  railroads 
running  in  tunnels  under  the  city,  which  have  stations 
at  the  principal  streets.  The  trains  stop  at  each  station 
about  one  half  minute,  then  go  off  again  at  a  fearful  rate, 
causing  the  buildings  over  the  road  to  tremble  and 
shake,  on  the  passage  of  each  train.  These  roads  have 
upper  stations  above  ground,  which  are  reached  by 
long  flights  of  stone  steps,  and  the  roads  and  cars  are 
well  lighted.  Crowds  of  people  can  be  seen  hurrying 
hither  and  thither,  by  means  of  these  roads,  the  same 
as  though  they  were  above  ground. 

The  public  buildings  of  London  are  mostly  constructed 
of  white  stone,  but  have  a  black,  smoky  appearance.     St. 


28  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Paul's  Church  is  the  most  prominent  object  in  the  great 
metropolis.  It  stands  on  Ludgate  Hill,  near  the  center 
of  the  city,  and  its  lofty  dome  rises  high  above  the 
surroundinor  buildinors  which  can  be  seen  for  miles  away. 
It  is  built  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  five  hundred  and  fourteen 
feet  long  by  two  hundred  and  eighty-six  feet  wide,  and 
surmounted  with  two  towers  and  a  dome,  the  latter  is  three 
hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  high.  Painted  on  the 
inside  of  the  dome,  are  six  large  pictures,  illustrating 
scenes  in  the  life  of  St.  Paul.  Westminster  Palace,  or 
House  of  Parliament,  stands  on  the  bank  ot  the  Thames 
in  the  west  division  of  the  city.  This  palace  has 
frequently  been  spoken  of  as  exceeding  in  size  and 
beauty  of  design  all  other  palaces  in  England.  It  is 
very  showy  on  the  outside,  but  the  inside  looks  more 
like  a  prison  than  a  palace ;  being  badly  lighted  and 
ventilated.  The  house  of  Lords  as  well  as  that  of 
Commons  is  small,  not  being  capable  of  seating  all  the 
members  when  there  is  a  full  attendance.  The  walls 
and  ceilings  of  these  halls  are  partly  covered  with  gilt, 
which  gives  them  a  glaring  appearance  that  is  un- 
pleasant to  the  eye,  and  the  seats  consist  of  benches 
covered  with  red  morocco,  and  running  lengthwise  like 
an  old  fashioned  school  house.  There  are  no  tables  in 
front  of  the  seats  for  writing,  nor  pages  to  attend  the 
members,  and  they  have  but  few  of  the  conveniences 
seen  in  the  legislative  halls  at  Washington. 

Fronting  the  House  of  Parliament  is  located  AVest- 
minster  Abbey,  which  has  been  so  often  referred  to  by 
English   historians.     Its    history    dates  back   almost  to 


ENGLAND.  29 

the  time  of  the  first  introduction  of  Christianity  into 
England.  Here,  William  the  Conqueror  was  crowned, 
as  well  as  many  other  English  sovereigns.  The  Abbey 
including  its  chapels  and  halls,  covers  eight  acres  of 
ground,  ahd  here  can  be  seen  the  tombs  of  many  of  the 
ancient  kings  and  queens  of  England,  with  that  of 
Queen  Elizabeth  by  the  side  of  her  rival,  Mary  Queen 
of  Scotland.  In  one  part  of  the  Abbey  called  the  poets 
corner,  I  saw  the  tombs  of  Milton,  Campbell,  Sheriden, 
Shelly,  and  many  other  distinguished  poets. 

The  bank  of  England  is  located  a  few  squares  from 
London  Bridge,  and  covers  an  area  of  several  acres, 
including  a  whole  square.  In  the  center  of  this  build- 
ing there  is  an  open  square  where  trees  and  grass  are 
growing,  and  a  fountain  of  water  playing.  The  bank 
employs  over  one  thousand  clerks,  has  a  steam  press 
to  print  its  own  bills,  and  is  without  doubt  the  greatest 
money  institution  in  the  world. 

On  Cheapsides,  one  of  the  principal  streets  of  the 
city,  there  is  a  curious  clock  which  attracts  much 
attention.  This  clock  is  very  large,  hanging  over  the 
sidewalk,  and  above  it  are  the  life  size  figures  of  three 
men  and  a  woman ;  and  by  the  side  of  each  are  bells  of 
various  sizes  so  as  to  chime.  At  the  time  of  striking 
one  of  the  figures  representing  a  Scottish  chief  strikes 
his  bell  with  a  hammer  when  the  others  join  by  striking 
their  bells  making  fine  music,  after  which  the  chief 
strikes  the  hour.  Large  crowds  of  people  collect  here  at 
the  time  of  striking,  and  for  this  cause  the  authorities 
threaten  to  take  it  down. 

E 


30  BEYOND      THE      A  T  L  A  X  T  I  C  . 

One  day  as  I  was  croAvding  my  way  through  the  street 
near  London  Bridge,  first  turning  to  the  right,  then  to 
the  left,  then  being  run  against  by  difterent  ones,  and 
my  corns  tramped  on,  I  met  a  man  with  such  a  singular 
appearance,  that  I  turned  back  to  follow  him  in  order 
to  learn  something  of  his  business.  He  wore  across  his 
shoulder,  a  wide  leather  belt,  on  which  appeared  in 
large  brass  letters,  "Rat  catcher,""  and  there  were  on  the 
belt,  cut  in  brass,  many  life  size  figures  of  rats.  This 
rat  catcher  had  a  dog  with  him,  to  assist  in  his  business, 
and  said  to  me,  that  he  caught  rats  alive,  and  sold  them 
to  sporting  gentlemen  for  two  pence  apiece. 

At  different  times  I  visited  the  Spurgeon  Tabernacle 

to  hear  the  great   orator.     This   church  is   very  large, 

with  two  tiers  of  galleries  extending  all  the  way  around  it, 

and  will  seat  over  six  thousand  people.     Notwithstanding 

its  great  size,  it  is  always  filled  at  time  of  service,  and 

hundreds  of  people   are  turned   away  who   cannot   get 

seats.     Mr.  Sjjurgeon  is  a  stout  heavy   set   man,  with  a 

broad  face,  and  a   strong   clear  voice,  but   I  could   see 

nothing  in   his   preaching,  to   cause   the  world  to   run 

crazy  after  him. 

Along  Cheapsides  and  Old    Broad  Street  I  observed 

sigrns  on  business  houses,  which  date  their  oris^in  back 

a  hundred  or  more  years,  as  the  time  of  establishing  the 

firm;  which  firms  have  been    handed  down  from    father 

to  son  ever  since — unlike  our    own   country,    where  a 

man  will  make  and  lose  a  fortune,  or  change  his  business 

every  few  years.     I  read  on  one  of  these  signs  :   "James 

Ray,    Cutlery,  established  in   1572."     Out  of  curiosity 


ENGLAND.  81 

I  went  into  the  store,  where  a  clerk  took  me  back  to 
the  counting  room  and  introduced  me  to  Mr.  Ray,  the 
proprietor,  who  was  a  young  looking  man,  with  pleas- 
insr  address.  He  gave  me  a  seat  and  we  entered  into 
conversation;  when  I  remarked  that  his  house,  judging 
from  its  sign,  was  an  old  one, "  Yes,"  said  he,  "  I  have  been 
in  this  business  for  nearly  three  hundred  years.'*  I 
replied,  you  must  have  been  young  when  you  commenced 
business.  Said  he;  "Yes  rather,"  laughing,  "when  I 
speak  of  the  lirm  I  always  include  my  ancestors."  On 
the  25th  of  June,  1572,  James  Ray  commenced  business 
on  this  corner,  and  it  has  been  continued  by  his 
posterity  ever  since  without  changing  the  name  of  the 
firm.  He  conducted  me  into  a  back  room  and  pointed 
to  the  original  sign  of  the  firm  which  was  painted  nearly 
three  hundred  years  ago. 

THE  TOW^EK  OF  LONDON. 

This  old  fortification  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  Thames, 
below  London  Bridge,  and  has  been  spoken  of  in  history  as 
a  fort,  a  prison,  a  palace,  a  chapel,  and  a  court  of  justice. 
It  covers  thirteen  acres  of  ground,  and  issurrounded  by 
a  hiffh  wall,  on  the  outside  of  which  is  a  moat  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide.  This  moat  can  be  flooded 
with  water  from  the  river  at  high  tide,  and  is  crossed  at 
the  main  entrance  to  the  tower  by  a  draw  bridge.  After 
passing  through  the  inner  wall,  we  came  to  the  traitor's 
gate,  where  state  criminals  were  brought  into  the  tower 
bv  water.     Within  the  w^alls  are  thirteen   towers,  the 


32  B  E  Y  O  X  D      THE      ATLANTIC. 

largest  of  which  is  White  Tower,  ninety-two  feet  high, 
with  walls  fifteen  feetthick,  and  was  built  by  William  the 
Conqueror,  in  the  year  1070.  In  this  tower  is  St.  John's 
Chapel,  where  the  ancient  kings  attended  worship,  and 
in  which  many  of  them  were  crowned.  Over  the  chapel  is 
a  dark,  ill-ventilated  room,  where  Sir  Walter  Raleigh 
was  confined  twelve  years  preceding  his  execution. 
This  room  was  also  the  prison  of  William  Wallace,  Lord 
Hastings,  and  Lady  Jane  Gray. 

From  White  Tower  we  went  into  a  large  hall,  con- 
taining thirty  life  size  figures,  clad  in  armor,  and 
mounted  on  horses,  representing  kings,  warriors,  and 
noblemen  of  past  ages.  Here  are  also  many  figures  on 
foot,  covered  with  armor,  made  of  polished  steel, 
covering  the  wearer  all  over,  and  proof  against  spear, 
or  sword.  This  armor  is  the  same  worn  by  the  person 
here  represented,  and  by  which  we  can  see  the  size  and 
form  of  the  former  kings  and  warriors  of  England,  from 
Edward  II.  to  James  I.,  all  of  whom  are  holding  in  their 
hand  the  same  sword  used  by  them  in  time  of  war.  We 
were  shown  the  block  and  axe,  used  in  beheading  Anne 
Boleyn,  Earl  of  Essex,  and  many  other  state  criminals. 
We  next  came  to  the  Jewel  Tower,  containing,  the 
jewels  of  state,  among  which  are  St.  Edward's  crown, 
which  was  used  at  all  the  coronations  from  Charles  L, 
to  William  IV.;  and  here  is  also  the  new  crown  made 
for  the  coronation  of  Queen  Victoria,  valued  at  a  half 
million  dollars.  There  is  to  be  seeh  the  Queen's  Diadem, 
the  Royal  Scepter,  St.  Edward's  Staff,  and  Sword  of 
Justice  and  Mercy,    Coronation   Bracelets,  and   Royal 


ENGLAND.  33 

Spurs,  with  many  other  articles,  all  made  of  massive 
gold,  ornamented  with  diamonds. 

i^ear  the  center  of  the  Tower  grounds  is  a  small  green 
spot  surrounded  by  an  iron  railing,  the  place  for  private 
executions.  Tower  Hill,  where  state  criminals  were 
publicly  executed,  is  a  slight  eminence  outside  of  the 
Tower  walls,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  high  iron  fence. 
The  ground  is  now  covered  with  flowers,  and  ornamental 
trees,  and  no  longer  a  place  of  execution. 

There  are  1500  soldiers  of  the  royal  guard,  quartered 
in  the  Tower,  and  also  many  conductors,  (called  beef 
eaters),  whose  business  it  is  to  conduct  visitors  through 
the  Tower,  and  explain  to  them,  things  of  interest. 
Visitors  pay  one  shilling  each,  for  a  ticket  of  admission, 
and  are  under  the  guardianship  of  these  conductors,  and 
if  they  stray  away  from  them  they  are  liable  to  be  arrested 
and  placed  in  the  guard  house. 


CHAPTER  III. 


LEAVIXG  FOK  THE  CONTINENT 

After  a  stay  of  twelve  days  in  London,  we  left  for  the 
Continent,  by  the  way  of  New  Haven  and  Dieppe.  The 
country  through  which  we  passed  is  not  so  good  as  the 
north  or  central  parts  of  England.  Here  the  soil  is  light 
and  underlaid  with  chalk  beds.  In  some  places  the 
embankments  of  the  railroads  are  composed  of  pure 
chalk,  giving  to  them  a  white,  shining  appearance.  At 
New  Haven,  we  went  aboard  of  a  steamer  bound  for 
Dieppe,  France,  a  distance  of  sixty-four  miles.  The 
coast  of  France,  as  seen  from  sea,  has  a  beautiful 
appearance,  with  its  chalky  bluffs  rising  perpendicularly 
above  the  water,  looking  like  walls  of  marble.  Behind 
these  bluffs  are  seen  forest  trees,  and  farm  houses;  the 
coast  differinor  verv  much  from  that  of  Ens^land  and 
Ireland,  where  scarcely  a  tree  or  a  shrub  can  be  seen 
along  its  borders. 

Dieppe  is  an  old  seaport  city,  largely  engaged  in  the 
fish  and  lumber  trade,  and  its  harbor  consists  of  a  walled 


LEAVING      FOK      THE      CONTINENT.  35 

basin  which  is  connected  with  the  sea  by  a  narrow  chan- 
nel guarded  by  strong  fortifications.  The  city  is  built  of 
white  stone,  and  from  the  sea,  it  presents  a  bold  and 
imposing  appearance.  Here  for  the  first  time,  we  saw 
the  French  fislier  women,  so  often  referred  to  by  travelers, 
and  it  was  amusing  to  see  a  large  collection  of  these 
women  gathered  around  a  vessel,  with  their  large  fish 
baskets,  waiting  their  turn  to  have  them  filled.  Their 
short  dresses,  loose,  dirty,  jackets,  and  white  caps  gave 
them  a  comical  appearance.  Dieppe  has  figured  exten- 
sively in  the  history  of  France,  and  lias  been  the  scene 
of  many  hard  fought  battles.  It  was  liere  the  Frencli, 
under  the  leadership  of  the  Maid  of  Orleans,  Joan  of 
Arc,  defeated  the  British,  and  drove  tliem  from  tlie 
country;  and  in  return  the  British  fleet  attacted,  subdued, 
and  burned  the  city. 

The  country  from  Dieppe  to  Paris,  a  distance  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  is  very  fine,  showing  a  rich 
soil,  and  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  There  is  no 
fencing  in  this  country,  except  that  inclosing  railroads; 
and  stock  is  guarded  while  feeding  on  the  pasture,  by  a 
herdsman,  or  more  frequently  by  a  woman  and  a  dog.  The 
land  in  this  country  generally  belongs  to  the  occupant, 
and  the  boundaries  of  each  farm,  are  shown  by  the 
different  kinds  of  grain. 

Seventy-two  miles  from  Dieppe,  we  came  to  the  old 
city  of  Rouen,  formerly  the  capital  of  Xormandy,  and 
the  place  where  William  the  Conquorer  fitted  out  his 
expedition  for  the  conquest  of  England.  This  city  is 
built  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Seine,  and  contains  many 


36  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

fine  public  buildings,  some  of  which  have  an  ancient 
appearance.  After  a  stay  of  three  hours  in  Rouen,  we 
again  took  the  train  for  Paris,  and  found  quarters  at  the 
Grand  Hotel  de  Orleans. 


PARIS. 

A  person  visiting  Paris,  cannot  fail  to  notice  the  great 
difference  between  it  and  London.  Although  only  two 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  apart,  they  differ  in  almost 
every  particular,  not  only  in  the  general  appearance  of 
the  cities,  but  in  language,  customs,  and  habits  of  the 
people.  London  is  mostly  built  of  brick ;  having  narrow, 
crooked  streets.  The  buildings  are  blacked  with  smoke, 
and  business  appears  to  be  the  main  object  of  its  citizens. 
While  Paris  is  built  of  white  stone,  the  streets  are 
mostly  wide,  clean,  and  attractive  in  appearance,  and  the 
enjoyment  of  life,  and  pleasure  are  the  grand  objects  of 
the  people.  'No  factories,  using  steam  power,  are  to  be 
seen  in  the  fashonable  parts  of  Paris,  and  iron  works  with 
forging  hammers  are  not  allowed  within  its  walls. 
Everything  appears  to  have  been  done  to  make  it  attrac- 
tive; and  partly  from  this  cause,  it  now  has  nearly  two 
million  of  inhabitants,  and  is  the  great  metropolis  of 
the  continent,  as  well  as  the  largest,  and  most  wealthy 
city  in  the  world — London  only  excepted. 

Paris  is  surrounded  by  a  stone  wall,  fifteen  miles 
in  length,  thirty  feet  high,  and  eleven  feet  thick,  with  a 
ditch  on  the  outside,  forty  feet  wide.  On  this  wall  are 
ninety-four  batteries,  or  forts,  consisting  of  ramparts  and 


FRANCE.  37 

parapets  inoimted  with  heavy  cannon.  Through  this 
wall  are  seventy-one  gates,  where  toll  is  collected  for 
the  benefit  of  the  city.  On  the  inside  of  the  wall  there 
is  a  railroad  running  nearly  the  whole  way  around  the 
city. 

The  river  Seine  runs  throngli  the  central  part  of  the  city; 
its  banks  are  walled  up  to  tlie  level  of  the  streets,  and 
crossed  by  many  stone  bridges.  Small  steamboats  run  up 
and  down  the  river  carrying  passengers  to  the  different 
[)arts  of  the  city,  as  well  as  towns  and  cities  in  the  vicinity 
of  Paris.  There  is  but  little  commerce  on  the  river;  and 
its  banks  unincumbered  by  docks  and  warehouses,  are 
used  for  driveways  and  pleasure  grounds.  There  are 
many  boulevards  running  in  various  directions  through 
the  city,  which  constitute  its  principal  thoroughfares. 
These  boulevards  are  about  three  times  the  width  of 
common  streets — shaded  with  trees,  and  paved  with 
composition;  which  makes  them  almost  as  smooth  as  a 
marble  floor.  New  boulevards  are  being  made  through 
different  parts  of  the  city,  by  pulling  down  fine  blocks 
of  buildings,  and  converting  the  ground  they  occupy 
into  public  use. 

On  the  bank  of  the  Seine,  near  the  center  of  the  city, 
is  located  the  Louvre  containing  the  great  French  muse- 
um. This  is  the  largest  building  in  Paris,  and  perhaps 
the  largest  in  the  world.  This  building  consists  of  a 
number  of  royal  palaces  built  by  different  kings  of 
P^rance,  all  joined  together,  and  forming  three  sides  of 
a  large  public  square,  the  Tuileries  forming  the  fourth 
side.     The  square  on  the   inside  of  the  Louvre  consists 


38  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

in  several  acres  of  ground,  through  which  is  a  driveway 
passing  through  an  arch  under  the  building,  and  in  the 
middle  of  the  square  is  a  small  flower  garden,  with 
ornamental  trees,  and  a  fountain  of  water. 

Adjoining  the  garden  of  the  Tuileries,  is  the  square 
of  Concorde,  containing  many  fountains,  and  groups  of 
collossal  statues,  some  of  which,  represent  different  cities 
of  France.  In  the  center  of  this  square,  stands  the  great 
Egyptian  obelisk,  eighty  feet  high,  which  was  brought 
from  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  in  the  year  1836.  On  this 
square,  Louis  XVI.  was  beheaded,  and  many  other  scenes 
memorable  in  French  history  took  place. 

On  the  west  of  the  square  Concorde  is  the  Champs 
Elysess,  a  great  avenue  one  mile  in  length,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  in  width,  containing  beautiful  parks  with 
flower  gardens,  where  birds  are  singing,  bands  of  music 
playing,  and  fountains  of  water  sparkling  in  the  sun- 
beams, making  it  the  most  attractive  place  in  Paris. 
On  this  avenue  are  seen  almost  every  afternoon,  driving 
back  and  fourth,  the  Emperor  and  suit,  as  well  as  the 
nobility  and  fashionable  people  of  Paris.  But  excelling 
all  others  in  point  of  extravagance  is  the  gazells,  with 
their  flne  carriages  and  servants  in  livery;  some  times 
accompanied  by  a  Duke  or  Count.  These  women  have 
great  wealth,  but  no  virtue.  They  exercise  great 
influence  in  the  citv,  dictatiugr  the  fashions  for  Paris 
and  the  world. 

At  the  Hippodrome  there  is  a  baloon  ascension  almost 
every  afternoon  ;  a  rope  being  attached  to  the  baloon,  by 
this  means  it  is   brought  down  again   by   steam  power. 


FRANCE.  '  39 

In  this  baloon,  I  made  an  aerial  voyage  to  see  the  city, 
and  was  much  delighted  with  the  scenery,  exceeding  in 
beauty  and  grandeur,  anything  that  I  had  ever  seen. 
When  the  baloon  was  loosed  from  its  fastening,  it  went  up 
with  great  rapidity,  for  a  few  hundred  feet,  after  which 
the  ascent  was  more  o^radual  until  it  reached  its  hisfhest 
point.  And  here  the  view  was  grand  beyond  description  ; 
the  whole  city  and  surrounding  country,  for  many  miles 
were  visible,  looking  like  a  painted  panorama.  The 
different  currents  of  air  caused  the  baloon  to  float  back 
and  forth,  sometimes  over  one  street,  then  over  anothei-, 
while  the  moving  mass  of  people,  horses  and  carriages 
below,  appeared  about  the  size  of  children's  toys.  As  we 
again  ajiproached  terra  fir  ma  th.Q  mammoth  baloon  began 
to  pitch  around  like  a  kite  in  a  high  storm,  making 
it  almost  impossible  for  a  person  to  stand  up  in  the 
basket.  At  last  the  baloon  came  within  reach  of  the 
grappling  hooks,  and  was  brought  to  anchor. 

In  the  South  part  of  the  city,  is  located  the  foundling 
asylum,  where  all  the  waifs  of  the  city  are  received,  and 
no  questions  asked.  From  the  street  there  is  an  open 
court,  the  entrance  into  the  asylum,  and  on  one  side  of 
which  is  a  raised  platform  containing  a  basket.  Into 
this  basket  the  child  is'  placed,  and  the  bell  rung, 
when  up  it  goes  through  the  dark  passage,  and  is  cared 
for,  above. 

Under  the  city  are  many  large  sewers,  or  canals  used 
for  the  supply,  and  waste  of  water.  Some  of  these  canals 
are  miles  in  length,  and  are  kept  in  repair  by  people 
who  live  in  them.     Gas  is  kept  burning  at  all  times  to 


40  BEYOXD     THE      ATLAXTIC. 

keep  these  passages  lighted,  and  a  railroad  track  is 
laid  along  them,  on  which  people  travel  from  place  to 
place  in  hand  cars.  There  are  also  small  rovvboats 
capable  of  carrying  four  persons,  each  running  on  these 
underground  canals,  and  in  these,  people  pass  to  and 
fro,  the  same  as  above  ground.  I  took  a  short  ride 
on  these  subterranean  thoroughfares,  but  found  under- 
ground canals  and  railroads  was  not  the  most  pleasant 
way  of  traveling. 

The  catacombs  of  Paris  are  situated  in  the  south  part 
of  the  city,  and  cover  a  large  space  of  ground,  which 
originally  was  a  stone  quarry,  where  stone  was  obtained 
for  building  the  city.  It  is  now  converted  into  a  vast 
bone  receptical,  whither  have  been  conveyed  millions 
of  the  dead,  the  products  of  exhumations  made  in  the 
ancient  cemeteries  of  Paris 

A  short  distance  from  the  Tuileries  is  the  great  stock 
exchange  (called  the  Bourse),  where  all  the  business  is 
transacted,  by  thirty  men,  who  are  authorized  by  govern- 
ment, to  do  brokerage  business,  and  no  transaction  is 
legal  unless  endorsed  by  these  men.  On  the  first  floor 
of  this  building  there  is  a  large  hall,  in  the  center  of 
which  is  a  bar  where  the  brokers  are  seated  ;  and  parties 
wishing  to  buy  or  sell  stock,  are  admitted  to  this  hall 
by  paying  a  tribute  to  the  government.  Spectators  are 
allowed  to  go  on  the  floor  above  and  look  down  on  the 
crowded,  and  excited  mass  below.  At  two  o'clock  each 
day,  the  sales  commence,  and  I  never  saw  anything  to 
equal  the  excitement  of  the  traders.  Some  rising  on 
tiptoes,   with   both   arms   extended,  their  eyes  glaring 


FRANCE.  41 

like  a  mad  man's,  with  sweat  running  down  their  faces 
in  large  drops,  as  they  sing  out  at  the  top  of  their  voice: 
"One  more  centime  on  the  last  bid."  Excitement  in 
business  transactions  is  peculiar  to  Frenchmen.  A  Wall 
street  broker  can  buy  and  sell  stocks  all  day,  make  a 
fortune  and  loose  it  aorain,  besides  cheatinir  his  neisjhbor 
broker  out  of  all  he  is  worth,  without  changing  a  muscle 
of  his  face. 

The  gayest  places  in  Paris  are  the  wine  gardens, 
where  they  have  public  balls  every  night.  These  are 
attended  by  thousands  of  people  of  all  classes.  Bal 
Mabille  and  Luxembourg  gardens  are  the  principal  ones 
where  the  gay  and  fashionable  people  of  both  sexes 
collect  for  amusements.  These  places  consist  of  a  large 
dancing  hall  opening  into  a  park.^  where  fountains  of 
water  are  playing,  and  flowers  blooming  beside  the  beau- 
tiful walks  and  avenues.  In  the  middle  of  the  dance 
room  is  a  platform  seating  twenty-four  musicians,  and  a 
thousand  or  more  persons  can  dance  at  a  time.  When 
ordinary  tunes  are  played,  the  dancing  is  the  same  as  at 
other  balls,  but  when  the  band  play  a  particular  air  the 
dancing  exceeds  all  description — the  men  throwing  their 
feet  in  all  directions  with,  their  bodies  in  all  sorts  of 
positions.  The  girls  with  loud  laughs  and  merry  jokes, 
in  order  to  excell  their  partners,  do  many  strange  things* 
which  are  tolerated  no  where  else  but  in  the  public  balls 
of  Paris. 


CHAPTER   IV 


BELGIUM. 


After  a  stay  of  twenty  days  in  Paris,  we  took  the 
cars  for  the  north,  and  for  two  hundred  miles  we 
traveled  through  French  territory.  The  country  on 
this  route  is  very  fine,  having  the  appearance  of  the 
prairies  of  the  west,  with  hirge  undulating  plains, 
without  fencing,  or  farm  houses,  while  here  and  there, 
can  be  seen  a  grove  of  timber.  The  land  is  rich, 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  the  farmers 
mostly  live  in  villages.  At  a  small  town  on  the  Belgian 
frontier,  all  the  baggage  belonging  to  travelers  was 
taken  into  the  custom  house,  where  it  underwent  ex- 
amination. And  a  few  miles  further,  we  came  to  the 
famous  old  city  of  Mons,  which  is  built  on  flat  land, 
on  both  sides  of  the  river  Trouille,  and  surrounded  by 
an  earth  fortification. 

Belgium  is  a  level  country,  and  portions  of  the  north 
part  of  it,  along  the  coast,  are  very  flat,  being  on  a  level 
with  the  sea,  where  dikes  are  built  to  prevent  the  lands 
from  being  overflowed  at  high  tide.     All  kinds  of  grain 


BELGIUM.  43 

common  to  the  United  States,  except  corn,  are  raised 
here.  Flax,  hemp,  chiccory,  and  madder,  are  exten- 
sively cultivated.  Wild  poppies  grow  in  this  country, 
and,  when  in  bloom  the  fields  look  like  a  vast  flower 
garden.  They  are  the  same  annoyance  to  the  people 
here  as  the  Canada  thistles  are  to  the  New  Eno:land 
farmers.  Many  of  the  public  roads  are  paved  with 
stone,  like  the  streets  of  a  city,  and  are  shaded  on 
either  side  by  trees,  which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of 
the  country.  There  are  many  artificial  g?*oves  in  this 
country,  most  of  which  belong  to  the  government. 
The  forest  of  Soignies,  near  Brussels,  is  ten  miles 
long  and  five  miles  wide  consisting  of  beech  trees, 
standing  in  rows  about  ten  feet  apart,  are  tall  and 
straight,  being  sixty  or  eighty  feet  without  limbs.  This 
forest  was  planted  seventy-eight  years  ago,  and  is  con- 
sidered the  finest  in  Europe. 

The  old  fashioned  windmills  of  former  ages  are 
still  in  use  here,  and  continue  to  grind  the  grain  of  the 
country.  These  mills  are  built  of  stone,  very  high  and 
tapering  like  a  tower,  and  on  the  top  of  which  is  a 
large  wind-wheel  to  move  the  machine.  It  is  said 
some  of  these  mills  have  been  standing  for  more  than 
one  thousand  years. 

Dogs  are  made  useful  here  being  bought  and  sold  like 
horses  or  cattle,  and  when  hitched  to  a  truck  wagon  or  a 
wheel-barrow  it  is  surprising  to  see  what  a  load  they 
will  draw.  One  day  I  saw  a  man  peddling  vegetables 
with  a  small  wagon  drawn  by  a  woman  and  a  dog.  The 
woman    was  leaning  forward  with    the  harness  across 


44  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

her  breast,  and  the  dog*  with  his  toiigae  out  was  also 
pulling  his  best,  while  the  man  walked  beside  the  wagon 
smoking  his  pipe. 

There  are  many  different  languages  spoken  in 
Belgium;  each  section  of  country  having  its  own 
dialect;  French,  Flemish,  Dutch,  and  German,  are 
more  or  less  spoken. 


BRUSSELS. 

The  capital  of  Belgium  contains  a  population  of 
237,000  and  is  regarded  a  model  city,  possessing  much 
of  the  beauty  and  attraction  of  Paris  without  its  noise 
and  confusion.  The  city  consists  of  two  parts,  the  old 
and  the  new,  differing  very  much  from  each  other. 
In  the  new  part,  the  streets  are  wide,  the  buildings  are 
constructed  of  white  stone  and  have  a  clean,  attractive 
appearance.  There  is  a  boulevard  running  part  way 
around  the  city  between  the  old  and  new  town  which  is 
six  miles  long,  three  hundred  feet  wide  and  has  three 
driveways,  shaded  by  seven  rows  of  trees.  The  grand 
park  occuping  a  central  part  of  the  city  is  said  to  be 
the  most  beautiful  one  in  Europe,  containing  large  elm 
trees  which  were  planted  one  hundred  and  twenty  years 
ago.  Here  is  a  dense  forest  where  birds  are  singing, 
squirrels  chattering,  and  were  it  not  for  the  fine  marble 
statuary,  and  fountains  of  water  playing,  a  person  might 
imagine  himself  in  an  American  forest,  instead  of  being 
in  the  midst  of  a  populous  city. 

The    old     Brussels    Cathedral    is    located    near   the 


BELGIUM.  45 

center  of  the  city  being  built  in  the  twelfth  century  and 
contains  many  fine  paintings  and  statuary.  But  the 
most  remarkable  item  of  its  contents  is  the  pulpit, 
which  is  carved  in  oak,  and  represents  the  expulsion  of 
Adam  and  Eve  from  Paradise.  These  figures  arc  all 
life  size,  and  the  offenders  are  being  driven  forth  from 
the  Garden  of  Eden  by  an  Angel,  with  a  flaming 
sword.  Behind  these  figures  stands  Death  with  a  dart 
in  his  hand,  and  by  the  side  of  which  is  the  tree  of 
knowledge  supporting  a  globe.  The  canopy  over  the 
pulpit  is  supported  by  two  angels,  on  the  top  of  which 
is  the  Virgin  Mary,  holding  the  infant  Savior. 

Close  to  the  Cathedral,  is  the  old  Ptoyal  Palace,  now 
used  as  a  town  hall.  This  is  a  fine  old  gothic  structure 
with  a  tower  three  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  high, 
on  the  top  of  which  stands  a  gilt  statue  of  St.  Michael. 
It  was  in  the  grand  hall  of  this  palace  that  Charles  Y. 
held  his  courts,  and  in  it,  he  signed  his  abdication  of 
the  throne  in  favor  of  his  son  Phillip. 

No  city  in  the  world  can  compete  with  Brussels  in  the 
manufacture  of  lace,  and  from  this  source  it  has  derived 
much  of  its  wealth.  I  visited  some  of  these  lace  facto- 
ries, and  saw  the  operatives,  (who  were  all  women), 
weaving  it.  All  fine  lace  is  woven  by  hand,  as  a 
genuine  article  cannot  be  made  in  any  other  way. 

The  present  King  of  Belgium,  Leopold  II.  is  a  young 

looking    man,    of  very  common    appearance;   and    the 

Queen  is  a  sister  of  the  late  Emperor  Maximillian  of 

Mexico.     She  drives  out  almost   every  afternoon   in   a 

carriage    drawn    by    four    ponies,  holding  the  reins  in 
G 


4:6  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC, 

her  own  hands,  and  using  the  whip  freely.  Two 
grooms  ride  behind  the  can-iage  to  render  assistance  if 
necessary. 


WATERLOO. 

Eleven  miles  south-east  of  Brussels,  we  came  to  the 
village  of  Waterloo,  which  is  composed  of  a  large 
collection  of  farm  houses,  and  looks  as  though  it  might 
have  been  built  soon  after  the  deluge.  Here  is  a  church 
which  was  built  three  hundred  years  ago,  and  around 
it  are  monuments  to  the  memory  of  a  number  of  English 
officers  who  fell  at  Waterloo.  Close  by  the  church  is 
the  house  where  the  Marquis  of  Anglesea's  leg  was 
amputated,  and  the  owner  of  this  house  finds  it  a  profit- 
able business,  exhibiting  the  boot,  belonging  to  the 
amputated  leg.  The  leg  of  the  Marquis  was  buried  in 
the  church  yard,  and  over  it  stands  a  monument  erected 
to  its  memory. 

Two  miles  from  here  is  the  battle  field  of  Waterloo, 
near  the  center  of  which,  stands  the  great  monument, 
built  by  the  King  of  Holland,  on  the  spot  where  his 
son  the  Prince  of  Oj-ange  was  wounded.  This  monument 
is  built  of  dirt,  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  covering 
four  acres  of  ground,  looking  at,  a  distance  like  an 
Egyptian  Pyramid.  Four  hundred  Belgian  women 
were  engaged  two  years  in  its  construction,  carrying 
dirt  in  baskets  placed  on  their  heads.  On  the  top  of 
this  monument  stands  a  colossal  lion,  cast  from  cannon 
taken  at  the   battle.     The  head  of  this  lion  is  turned 


BELGIUM.  47 

towards  France,  his  tail  erect,  a  hall  under  one  fore  foot 
and  his  mouth  open  as  if  in  the  act  of  growling. 

The  land  where  this  battle  was  fought,  consists  of 
tine,  cultivated  farms,  and  is  nearly  level,  with  a  slight 
depression  running  across  the  middle  of  it,  which  was 
the  dividing  line  between  the  contending  armies.  Our 
guide,  who  is  an  old  Belgian  soldier,  and  fought  in  the 
battle  says:  fifty-three  years  have  made  but  little  change 
in  this  place.  The  ground  is  now  covered  with  grain 
the  same  as  it  was  on  that  eventful  day.  The  same 
tarm  buildings  are  still  standing,  and  show  marks  of 
cannon  balls.  In  the  south  part  of  the  field  is  the 
Chateau  of  Hougomont,  which  was  considered  the  key 
of  the  position,  and  withstood  the  many  assaults  from  the 
French  army.  The  high  wall  around  the  garden  as  well 
as  the  little  chapel,  dwelling,  barn,  and  out-buildings, 
are  all  constructed  of  brick,  and  still  show  the  marks 
of  the  dreadful  conflict. 


ANTWERP. 

This  great  commercial  metropolis  of  Belgium,  stands 
on  the  south-east  side  of  the  river  Scheldt,  and  contains 
over  100,000  inhabitants.  The  river  at  this  point,  is 
both  wide  and  deep,  forming  one  of  the  finest  harbors 
in  the  German  Ocean.  Antwerp  is  an  old  city,  and  has 
figured  extensively  in  the  early  history  of  Europe,  and 
was  the  capital  of  Flanders,  when  the  Spaniards  were 
in  possession  of  it.  Its  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked, 
winding  and  turning  in  all  directions,  so  that  a  stranger 


48  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

has  screat  difficulty  in  lindinsr  his  wav  throuo-h  them. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  six  or  seven  stories  high,  and 
tapering  up  to  a  pinnacle,  with  their  fronts  adorned 
with  tracerv  work,  and  have  heavy  bars  of  iron  across 
the  windows,  to  guard  the  inmates  against  the  assault  of 
the  enemy  in  time  of  war.  A  stroll  through  the  streets 
of  Antwerp  is  very  amusing,  as  we  see  the  peculiar 
costume  of  the  market  women,  with  their  large  straw 
hats,  loose  jackets,  and  wooden  shoes,  which  appear  in 
harmony  with  the  old  buildings  around  them.  While 
the  gay  toilets  of  the  girls,  consisting  of  a  great  variety 
of  colors,  with  their  white  lace  caps,  and  gi-een  jackets 
are  in  keeping  with  the  picturesque  appearance  of  the 
city. 

The  gi-eat  cathedral  of  Xotre  Dame,  which  was  built 
in  the  thirteenth  century,  is  a  magnificent  structure  being 
five  hundred  feet  in  length,  two  hundred  and  fifty  in 
breadth,  and  contains  many  beautiful  paintings  and 
statuary.  Its  spire  is  the  most  remarkable  part  of  the 
structure,  and  attracts  universal  admiration,  towering 
up  four  hundred  and  six  feet  in  hight,  and  is  considered 
the  most  beautiful  shaft  in  the  world. 

Vandyke  and  Rubens,  whose  paintings  adorn  the 
walls  of  all  the  principal  galleries  of  Europe,  lived  and 
died  at  Antwerp,  and  here  their  monuments  are  to  be 
seen. 

There  are  many  curious  customs  in  Antwerp,  although 
not  confined  exclusively  to  this  city,  but  are  seen  here 
to  the  greatest  extent.  Large  crowds  of  men  and  women 
are   seen   in   the  principal   beer  saloons,   drinking  and 


HOLLAND.  49 

smoking  in  full  enjoyment  of  life.  This  habit  is  not 
confined  to  the  low  and  profligate,  but  the  well  dressed 
respectable  gentleman  and  lady,  are  seen  here,  even  at 
the  late  hour  of  night.  Wooden  shoes  cut  out  of  a 
block  of  wood,  are  worn  here  by  the  poor  people. 
Rolls  of  bread  the  size  of  a  man's  arm,  and  five  or  six  feet 
in  length,  are  in  common  use.  I  have  frequently  seen 
people  carrying  on  their  shoulder  a  large  bundle  of  these 
rolls.  At  restaurants  these  rolls  are  set  up  against  the 
wall,  and  cut  off  from,  as  occasion  requires. 

The  Zoological  gardens  of  Antwerp  are  among  the 
finest  in  Europe,  and  in  them,  animals  are  raised  to 
supply  menageries,  and  gardens  of  other  countries. 
While  in  these  gardens,  I  saw  people  engaged  in  convey- 
ing a  tiger  to  a  steamer,  for  shipment  to  England.  In 
moving  the  tiger  through  the  streets  of  the  city,  it 
became  enraged,  broke  out  of  its  cage,  attacked  and 
killed  a  man  instantly.  It  was  followed  and  dispatched 
with  guns. 

HOLLAND. 

Holland  is  certainly  a  remarkable  country,  being 
(with  a  few  exceptions)  without  a  hill  or  knoll,  or  a 
stream  of  running  water,  and  with  a  large  portion  of  its 
surface  lying  below  the  level  of  the  ocean.  In  many 
places  along  the  beach,  dykes  are  built  to  prevent  the 
water  of  the  sea  from  overflowing  the  country.  These 
dykes  were  built  and  are  kept  in  repair  at  the  cost  of 
millions  of  dollars   which  is  raised  by  a  tax  levied  on 


50  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

land  in  each  district,  guarded  by  them.  At  one  time 
according  to  history,  this  country  was  a  vast  marsh 
uninhabited,  and  was  swept  over  by  the  tide  of  the  ocean ; 
and  it  is  to  the  industry  and  enterprise  of  its  people  that 
they  owe,  not  only  their  wealth,  and  high  commercial 
position,  but  even  the  land  they  occupy. 

The  draining  of  the  land  is  done  by  means  of  canals 
which  run  everywhere  through  the  country,  connecting 
with  each  other,  and  forming  a  complete  network.  On 
each  farm  are  sluice-ways,  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  wide, 
and  a  few  rods  apart,  at  the  terminus  of  which  is 
a  windmill,  to  pump  the  water  up  into  the  small  canals. 
From  these  small  canals,  the  water  is  pumped  up  still 
higher  into  the  large  ones,  which  empty  into  the  sea. 
Each  farmer  pays  a  large  amount  of  money,  yearly,  to  the 
government,  for  the  privilege  of  pumping  the  water  oif 
his  lands.  The  water  courses  through  the  farms,  answers 
in  place  of  fencing,  and  the  small  canals  are  used  for 
conveyance  of  produce  from  place  to  place,  while  through 
the  main  ones,  the  commerce  of  the  country  is  carried 
on.  These  main  canals  are  elevated  high  above  the 
<;ommon  level  of  the  country,  and  mostly  shaded  on 
either  side,  by  ornamental  trees,  while  roads  cross  them 
on  turn  bridges.  Steamboats,  sloops,  as  well  as  other 
crafts,  run  on  them,  constituting  the  principal  highways 
of  Holland. 

While  traveling  on  one  of  these  main  canals,  we  had 
a  fine  view  of  the  country.  From  the  hurricane  deck 
of  the  steamer,  we  could  see  large  herds  of  cattle,  sheep 
and  goats,  feeding  on  the  rich  meadows  below  us.     The 


HOLLAND.  51 

farmers  were  busily  engaged  with  their  hay  crop, 
loading  it  into  boats,  instead  of  wagons,  to  convey  it 
to  their  barns.  The  small  canals  running  through  the 
farms  occupy  the  place  of  roads,  and  on  them,  people 
travel  from  place  to  place.  If  a  f^irmer  goes  to  church 
or  visiting,  he  takes  a  boat,  and  if  a  young  man  goes 
courting,  he  does  the  same. 

The  mills  for  pumping  water  are  the  most  conspicuous 
feature  of  the  country ;  the  high  towers  constructed  of 
brick,  tapering  towards  the  top,  with  a  mammoth  wind- 
wheel  on  their  top,  can  be  seen  at  a  great  distance. 
During  the  wet  season  of  the  year,  the  pumps  are  kept 
running  day  and  night,  to  prevent  the  country  from 
being  inundated. 

Holland  is  without  timber,  except  brush  and  orna- 
mental trees.  Much  of  the  timber  used  here,  comes  from 
Switzerland,  and  the  coal  from  England.  Wheat,  barley, 
and  rye,  are  raised  here  to  some  extent,  but  grass  is  the 
principal  crop,  and  beef,  butter,  and  cheese,  constitute 
the  principal  exports. 

We  traveled  from  Antwerp,  to  Rotterdam,  by  steam- 
boat. The  distance  between  these  points  by  the  way  of 
the  North  Sea,  is  over  two  hundred  miles.  But  a  canal 
often  miles  in  length,  has  been  cut  across  the  country 
connecting  the  waters,  so  that  the  distance  by  this  route 
is  only  sixty  miles.  The  country  along  this  route  is 
about  equally  divided  between  land  and  water.  Many 
places,  dykes  are  built  along  the  shore,  rising  some  feet 
above  tide  water,  and  hiding  the  view  of  the  land,  even 
from   the   hurricane    deck    of  the  steamer.     The   lofty 


52  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

towers  of  windmills,  and  spires  of  churches  and  school 
houses,  with  which  the  country  abounds,  appear  to  rise 
as  it  were  out  of  the  sea,  while  the  buildings  to  which 
they  belong,  were  not  visible  from  the  hurricane  deck 
of  the  steamer. 

On  our  passage,  we  saw  a  large  number  of  sea  lions 
basking  on  the  sandbars  at  low  tide.  Some  of  these 
were  as  large  as  an  ox,  being  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  length, 
of  various  colors,  and  at  a  distance,  they  looked  like 
herds   of  cattle. 

I  visited  all  the  principal  cities  of  Holland,  and  a 
short  account  of  some  of  these  is  given  below. 

ROTTERDAM. 

This  is  a  large  commercial  city,  being  the  second  in 
Holland,  in  point  of  population,  and  the  first  for  its 
maritime  importance.  It  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  river  Maas,  which  here  resembles  an  arm  of  the  sea 
although  twenty  miles  from  its  mouth.  Rotterdam  has 
a  population  of  over  100,000,  and  has  a  large  inland,  as 
well  as  foreign  commerce.  It  is  principally  built  of 
brick,  which  are  small  in  size,  and  of  a  dark  color 
differing  from  the  brick  of  other  countries.  The  houses 
are  from  four  to  six  stories  high;, many  of  which  are 
wider  at  the  top  than  at  the  bottom,  which  gives  to  them 
a  leaning  appearance,  and  look  as  though  they  were 
about  to  fall  into  the  street.  At  many  of  the  windows 
arc  looking-glasses  suspended  from  the  wall  on  the  out- 
side, so  that  the  inmates  of  each  room  can  seethe  people 


HOLLAND.  53 

pass  and  repass,  on  the  sidewalk.  On  one  house  I 
counted  twenty-seven  glasses,  being  three  at  each 
window.  These  looking-glasses  at  the  windows  are 
more  or  less  used  in  all  the  cities  of  Holland. 

Rotterdam  is  built  on  flat  land,  which  rises  only  a  few 
feet  above  tide  water,  and  has  many  canals  running 
throusrh  it,  most  of  which  are  shaded  with  trees.  Many 
of  these  canals  are  wide  enough  for  large  ships  to  turn 
in  them,  and  the  streets  cross  these  canals  by  draw- 
bridires. 


HAGUE. 

The  capital  of  Holland  is  situated  three  miles  from  the 
North  Sea,  and  contains  a  population  of  76,000.  It  has 
but  little  commerce,  or  manufacturing,  but  is  a  place  of 
great  beauty,  and  contains  much  of  the  wealth,  as  well 
as  the  aristocracy,  and  nobility  of  Holland.  The  city 
stands  on  flat  land,  containing  many  beautiful  parks, 
flower  gardens  and  artificial  lakes,  as  well  as  numerous 
canals,  with  their  banks  shaded  by  ornamental  trees. 

Three  miles  from  Hague,  on  the  beach  of  the  North 
Sea,  is  situated  the  old  town  of  Scheveningen,  made 
famous  by  poets,  and  writers  of  romance.  It  has  no 
liarbor,  and  is  only  accessible  to  fishing  crafts,  but  it  is 
the  great  bathing  place  for  Holland.  A  large  hotel  is 
built  here  with  a  beer  garden,  extending  down  to  the 
edge  of  the  water,  and  here  people  collect  to  drink  and 
smoke,  w^hile  listening  to  the  bands  of  music.  Among 
those  who  appeared  to  enjoy  themselves  on  the  evening 

M 


54  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC, 

of  my  visit  here,  were  the  King,  two  princes,  and  Prince 
of  Orange.  The  present  King  of  Holland,  William  III, 
is  a  large  fleshy  Dutchman,  and  looks  as  though  he  were 
a  better  judge  of  a  good  dinner,  or  a  bottle  of  porter, 
than  the  practical  aifairs  of  the  kingdom. 

AMSTERDAM. 

According  to  history,  Amsterdam  was  at  one  time  the 
greatest  commercial  city  in  the  world.  Then  its  sails 
were  on  every  sea,  while  its  ships  were  seen  in  every 
port.  It  has  lost  much  of  its  trade,  but  still  is  a  city  of 
great  commercial  importance,  and  contains  270,000 
inhabitants.  Amsterdam  is  frequently  styled  the  Venice 
of  the  North,  on  account  of  its  numerous  canals,  and  its 
similarity  of  situation  to  the  Queen  of  the  Adriatic. 
The  streets  are  mostly  narrow  and  crooked,  turning  and 
winding  about  in  all  directions,  making  it  difficult  for  a 
stranger  to  find  his  way.  The  houses  are  high,  many 
of  them  running  up  to  a  sharp  peak  in  the  center,  and 
built  out  of  range,  showing  no  system  in  their  construc- 
tion. And  many  of  the  houses  are  built  leaning  towards 
the  middle  of  the  street  so  as  to  give  additional  room 
above,  forming  almost  an  archway  where  the  sun  seldom 
penetrates.  Almost  every  other  >street  has  a  canal  in 
the  middle  of  it,  which  gives  water  communication  to 
all  parts  of  the  city. 

While  in  Amsterdam,  we  stopped  at  the  Old  Bible 
Hotel,  which  has  been  so  often  referred  to,  by  church 
historians,   as  being  the  building  where  the  Bible  w^as 


HOLLAND.  55 

lirst  printed,  for  the  use  of  the  public,  when  the  Pope 
issued  his  bull  against  it,  consigning  all  concerned  in 
its  publication,  to  the  bottomless  pit.  A  copy  of  the 
first  edition  of  the  Bible  is  here,  for  the  inspection  of 
the  guests  of  the  hotel,  which  bears  date  A.  D.  1542, 
This  building  has  been  used  for  a  hotel  one  hundred  and 
twenty-two  years,  and  is  a  great  place  of  resort  for 
English,  and  American  travelers.  A  large  gilt  Bible 
hangs  over  the  front  door,  opened  at  the  first  chapter  of 
Matthew,  and  exhibiting  four  pictures  of  scriptural 
scenes.  This  sign  has  hung  here  ever  since  the  house 
was  opened  as  a  hotel,  and  without  close  inspection,  a 
person  would  think  it  a  genuine  Bible,  instead  of  a 
painted  sign. 

The  city  of  Amsterdam  is  situated  on  the  Amstel  Sea 
which  is  only  navigable  for  ships  of  light  tonage.  All 
large  vessels  are  obliged  to  pass  through  the  North 
Holland  canal,  which  is  fifty  miles  in  length.  A  new 
canal  is  now  being  constructed  across  the  isthmus  of 
North  Holland,  which  will  shorten  the  distance  out  to 
sea. 

We  left  Amsterdam  in  a  steamship,  bound  for  Ham- 
burg, which  is  about  three  hundred  miles  distant,  and 
for  about  twenty  hours,  we  encountered  a  heavy  sea. 
Some  twenty  miles  from  shore,  we  passed  an  English 
steamer,  beached  on  a  sandbar,  with  the  waves  breaking 
over  her,  being  a  total  wreck.  Seventy  miles  sail  up 
the  river  Elbe,  brought  us  to  the  great  commercial  city 
<»f  Hamburg. 


CHAPTER  V. 


HAMBURG. 


This  is  the  most  commercial  city  in  the  north  of 
Europe,  and  ships  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  are  seen 
in  its  harbor.  The  flag  of  the  Chinese  junk,  and  the  stars 
and  stripes  are  seen  waving  beside  the  union  jack  of 
English  merchantmen.  Ten  ocean  steamships,  run 
between  here  and  New  York,  and  most  of  the  emigrants 
from  northern  Europe,  take  shipping  here.  The  city 
has  a  population  of  near  200,000,  and  is  said  to  contain 
more  wealth,  than  any  other  city  in  Germany.  In  the 
old  part  of  the  city  next  to  the  river,  the  streets  are 
narrow  and  crooked,  but  the  new  part  is  well  built  with 
wide  streets  high  stone  houses,  which  are  of  the  modern 
there  style  of  architecture.  In  the  north  part  of  the  city 
is  a  beautiful  lake,  of  some  miles  in  circumference,  called 
Alster's  Basin.  Fourteen  little  steamers  run  on  it, 
to  carry  passengers  to  different  points.  This  lake  is 
walled  up  to  the  level  of  the  street,  and  has  a  fine 
driveway  around  it,  which  is  shaded  with  trees,  and 
here  is  the  great  promenade  of  the  city. 


HANOVER.  57 

Hamburg,  is  one  of  the  four  independent  cities  of 
Germany,  made  so  by  the  Confederation  of  the  Rhine, 
and  makes  its  own  laws,  same  as  other  German 
States.  Outside  of  the  city  limits,  the  territory  belongs 
to  Prussia,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  are  the 
borders  of  the  late  kingdom  of  Hanover. 

Fifty-six  miles  from  Hamburg  brought  us  to  the  fine 
old  city  of  Lubeck. 

HANOVER. 

Having  parted  with  my  company  at  Hamburg,  I 
crossed  the  Elbe,  and  made  a  short  tour  through  the  old 
kingdom  of  Hanover.  Much  of  the  country  is  very  fine, 
with  highly  cultivated  farms,  being  equal  in  point  of 
fertility,  to  any  that  I  have  seen  in  Europe.  But  towards 
the  government  T  found  a  bitter  feeling,  as  the  annexa- 
tion of  that  country  to  Prussia,  makes  all  men  eligi- 
ble soldiers,  besides  oppressing  them  with  a  heavy 
taxation. 

While  traveling  in  this  country,  I  met  with  an  adven- 
ture, and  on  account  of  its  oddity  I  will  relate:  Leaving 
the  railroad  line,  I  took  the  stage-coach  to  go  some  miles 
in  the  country,  to  see  a  curious  old  castle,  which  I  had 
heard  much  about.  On  arriving  at  my  destination,  I 
inquired  at  the  village  inn,  for  a  guide,  but  found  no  one 
who  could  speak  English,  or  give  any  answer  to  ray 
inquries.  News  went  through  the  village  that  an 
American  was  at  the  hotel,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the 
bar-room  was  full  of  people,  all  anxious  to  see  the  sight. 


58  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

If  the  landlord  had  been  a  Yankee,  he  would  have 
charged  admittance  fees  at  the  door,  which  would  have 
amounted  to  a  nice  little  sum.  The  crowd  continued  to 
increase,  and  I  found  myself  an  object  of  notoriety  which 
was  everything  else  but  agreeable.  At  last  an  old  man 
was  brought,  one  who  had  been  a  sailor  in  his  younger 
days,  and  knew  a  little  English.  I  employed  him  to 
show  me  the  castle,  and  we  left  the  hotel  followed  by  a 
large  company  of  boys,  as  though  I  was  a  wild  animal 
on  exhibition. 

On  our  return  to  the  hotel,  I  found  a  message  from  a 
lady,  requesting  me  to  call  on  her.  I  was  much  surprised 
to  find  that  I  had  been  getting  up  a  sensation,  and  after 
brushing  up  a  little,  I  told  my  guide  to  take  me  to  the 
lady's  residence.  On  arriving  at  her  house,  I  was 
introduced  to  an  old  lady,  so  big  and  fat,  that  she  could 
hardly  rise  without  help,  from  an  arm-chair,  where  she 
was  sitting.  She  explained  through  the  interpreter  her 
object  in  sending  for  me,  by  saying,  that  she  had  never 
seen  an  American,  and  was  anxious  to  see  how  they 
looked.  Then  added,  "I  see  you  look  like  other  folks, 
except  a  little  taller."  She  continued,  "I  thought 
Americans  were  red."  I  explained  to  her,  that  Indians, 
the  native  Americans,  were  red.  She  then  asked  me  if 
I  was  not  an  Indian,  to  which  I  replied,  my  ancestors 
were  from  Europe,  and  no  way  connected  with  the 
Indian  race.  She  continued,  "  Do  people  out  there  dress 
as  you  do?"  I  replied,  much  the  same.  "Law  me  I 
thought  they  wore  buckskin,  and  wrapped  thefnselves 
up  in  buffalo  robes," she  responded. 


LUBECK. 


59 


She  next  inquired  of  me  if  I  knew  in  America,  Hans 
Schmidt,  (John  Smith  in  English).  I  replied,  that  1 
knew  him  well.  At  this  news,  she  appeared  much 
delighted,  as  she  had  heard  nothing  from  him  since  he 
left  Hanover,  twenty-five  years  ago.  But  I  told  her  the 
one  I  knew,  was  a  diiferent  man,  although  of  the  same 
name.  It  never  had  occurred  to  her,  that  there  was 
more  than  one  John  Smith  living  in  America. 


LUBECK. 


The  city  of  Lubeck,  is  situated  at  the  south  end  of  the 
Baltic  Sea,  and  like  Hamburg,  is  one  of  the  four  inde- 
pendent cities  of  Germany,  and  contains  a  population 
of  52,000.  The  streets  of  Lubeck,  are  like  most  other 
old  cities  of  Germany,  narrow  and  crooked,  and  the 
houses  with  their  red  tile  roofs,  running  up  to  a  pinnacle, 
show  marks  of  great  antiquity.  While  the  fine  old 
churches  and  cathedrals,  with  their  tall  spires,  extending 
up  into  the  clouds,  bear  evidence  of  its  former  grandeur. 
The  old  Rathhaus  Church,  is  a  noble  specimen  of  the 
architectural  skill,  of  past  ages,  and  according  to  the 
date  on  its  walls,  was  dedicated  in  the  year  1280.  Its 
main  chapel,  is  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet  long,  one 
hundred  and  sixty  wide,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
four  feet  between  the  floor  and  ceiling.  It  contains 
many  fine  works  of  art,  with  a  beautiful  marble  altar 
seventy  feet  high,  and  three  large  organs,  one  of  which 
has  five  thousand  pipes. 

In  the  south  wing  of  this  church,  occupying  four  sides 


60  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

of  a  large  room,  is  to  be  seen  the  great  picture,  which 
was  painted  over  four  hundred  years  ago,  and  called 
the  Dance  of  Death.  This  picture  consists  of  a  large 
number  of  life  size  figures,  representing  various  classes 
of  people,  from  the  peasant,  to  the  pope,  or  emperor, 
and  by  the  side  of  each,  is  a  skeleton,  representing 
death.  At  the  head  of  this  group,  is  death  j^laying  on 
a  flute,  then  comes  a  farmer  in  full  vigor  of  life,  next  a 
lawyer,  a  priest,  a  warrior,  a  politician,  a  king,  or  em- 
peror, and  the  man  and  woman  of  pleasure,  as  well  as 
people  in  almost  every  condition  of  life.  Between  each 
of  these  figures,  is  the  skeleton  death,  dancing  a  jig,  and 
grinning  in  the  most  hideous  manner,  while  he  is 
holding  on  to  the  arm  of  his  victim,  and  pulling  them 
along.  The  woe-begone  expression  of  the  victim,  and 
the  fiendish  grin  of  death,  will  impress  itself  so  firmly 
on  the  mind  of  the  beholder,  that  he  never  can  forget  it. 
In  the  Rathhaus  Church,  is  the  wonderful  clock  so 
often  referred  to,  by  writers  on  mechanism.  This  clock 
has  many  dials,  on  which  are  represented  the  whole 
system  of  astronomy,  the  sun,  moon  and  planets,  also 
the  day  of  the  week,  month  and  year.  The  twelve 
signs  of  the  Zodiac,  are  represented  by  figures  of 
animals,  like  the  old  fashioned  almanacs.  At  twelve 
o'clock  each  day,  the  great  bell  ^strikes  the  hour,  the 
chime  bells  ring,  the  organ  plays  a  tune,  and  two  life- 
like figures  come  out  of  the  clock,  and  bow  to  the 
audience.  The  great  dial,  six  feet  in  diameter, 
turns  on  its  axis;  a  hand  points  to  the  day  of  the 
week,  month  and  year,   and  the   changes  of  the  moon 


DENMARK.  61 

are  showu,    with  various    things    relating  to  the  solar 
system. 


DEXMAKK. 

It  was  with  feeling  of  regret,  that  1  left  Lubeck,  a 
city  containing  so  many  relics  of  antiquity,  and  so  much 
identified  with  the  history  of  past  ages.  Having  parted 
with  my  company  here,  I  took  passage  on  a  Baltic 
steamer,  where  no  one  spoke,  or  understood  the  English 
language.  I  found  myself,  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land, 
and  for  the  first  time,  I  felt  like  turning  back.  I  had 
for  some  time  been  accustomed  to  hearing  the  French, 
Flemish,  Dutch,  and  German  spoken,  but  now  for  the 
first  time,  I  heard  the  Danish,  which  added  a  new  link 
to  my  already  confused  ideas  of  foreign  language. 

The  country  along  the  south  end  of  the  Baltic  Sea,  is 
level ;  some  places  the  land  rises  only  a  few  feet  above 
the  water.  In  places,  trees  and  farm  houses,  are  seen 
from  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  but  at  other  points  nothing 
was  visible  above  the  horizon.  The  water  of  the  Baltic 
is  but  little  salt,  almost  without  tide,  and  its  commerce 
is  very  extensive.  At  one  view,  I  counted,  one  hundred 
and  twenty-eight  vessels,  with  their  canvass  all  spread 
making  the  finest  display  of  shipping  that  I  had  ever 
seen. 

The  land  in  Denmark,  is  mostly  level,  full  of  small 
lakes,  and  sand  knolls.  The  land  is  not  rich,  but  is 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  producing  all  kinds  of 
grain    common  to  northern   Europe.     There  are  many 


62  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

artiiical  groves,  consisting  of  pine  and  beech  trees,  but 
they  appear  to  be  more  for  ornament,  tlian  use,  as  the 
timber  used  here,  principally  comes  from  Norway,  and 
the  coal  from  England,  Peat  is  found  on  almost  every 
farm,  and  large  ricks  of  it  are  seen  drying  for'  winter 
use.  There  is  no  fencing  in  this  country,  and  horses, 
cattle  and  sheep,  are  tied  with  a  long  rope  while  feeding 
on  the  pjlstures. 

In  the  north  part  of  the  Island  of  Zealand,  I  was 
surprised  at  the  great  length  of  the  days  in  midsummer. 
In  addition  to  its  high  northern  latitude,  the  reflection 
of  the  sun  on  the  water,  makes  long  twilight,  morning 
and  evening,  and  it  was  not  dark,  until  eleven  o'clock 
at  night,  while  daylight  begins  to  appear  at  one  o'clock 
in  the  morning.  In  traveling  through  this  country  at 
ten  o'clock  in  the  evening,  I  found  houses  closed,  and 
people  retired  for  the  night,  while  it  was  still  daylight. 

Thirty-eight  miles  down  the  coast  from  Copenhagen, 
is  located  the  old  city  of  Elsinore,  with  its  narrow  streets, 
dirty  alleys,  and  rough  paved  streets,  but  containing 
nothing  to  interest  a  stranger.  The  surroundings  of 
this  city,  are  very  beautiful,  and  it  is  said  to  be  the 
most  attractive  place  in  Denmark.  North  of  the  city, 
on  an  elevated  point  of  land,  extending  out  into  the 
sound,  stands  th.e  great  fortress  of  Cronborg,  which  was 
built  about  three  hundred  years  ago.  This  castle,  is  a 
magnificent  structure,  built  of  red  granite,  of  a  gothic 
style  of  architecture,  and  is  considered  the  finest  castle 
in  northern  Europe.  Its  position  is  very  beautiful,  being 
surrounded  by  a  fine  park,  containing  paved  walks  and 


DENMARK.  68 

driveways,  and  overlooks  the  sound,  which  its  guns 
command.  The  castle  is  surrounded  by  two  walls,  and 
two  moats,  and  contains  a  chapel,  a  museum,  a  theatre, 
and  is  garrisoned  by  one  thousand  soldiers.  It  was  on 
the  terrace  of  its  walls,  (according  to  Shakespeare), 
Hamlet  met  the  ghost  of  his  father;  the  exact  spot 
where  the  meeting  occurre<l,  was  pointed  out  by  our 
guide. 

The  channel  at  this  point,  connecting  the  Baltic  with 
the  North  Sea,  is  only  two  miles  wide,  and  it  was  at 
this  place,  the  Danes  for  many  years  levied  tribute  on 
all  vessels,  passing  into  the  Baltic  Sea. 

One  mile  from  Cronborg  Castle,  on  the  beach  of  the 
sound,  is  a  number  of  bath  houses,  and  hotels,  and 
people  from  difterent  parts  of  Denmark,  collect  here 
during  the  summer  season,  making  it  a  Newport,  or 
Saratoga.  Back  from  these  bath  houses,  in  a  beautiful 
park,  stands  the  Royal  Chateau,  formally  the  country 
residence  of  the  king  of  Denmark,  It  is  no  longer  the 
dwelling  place  of  royalty,  but  is  occupied  by  private 
parties,  who  keep  it  open  to  the  public.  As  we  entered 
this  palace,  tickets  were  handed  us,  for  which  we  paid 
two  marks  each,  after  which  we  were  conducted  up  four 
flights  of  stairs,  the  last  one,  opening  into  a  fine  shady 
garden.  Here  we  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  sound, 
as  well  as  the  Swedish  coast  for  many  miles,  including 
the  old  city  of  Helsingborg,  with  its  old  fashioned 
church  steeples,  and  red  tile  roof  houses.  In  the  back 
part  of  this  garden,  we  w^ere  shown  the  grave  of 
Hamlet,  Prince  of  Denmark,  ^hose  memory  has  been 


64  BEYOXD      THE      ATLANTIC. 

immortalized  by  Shakespeare's  tragedy.  Around  this 
grave,  is  a  circular  knoll,  and  in  the  center  of  which, 
rises  a  round  marble  shaft,  of  some  twelve  feet  in 
hight,  being  the  only  monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  the  departed  Prince. 


COPENHAGEN. 

The  capital  of  Denmark,  is  built  on  an  arm  of  sea, 
which  extends  back  some  ways  from  the  sound,  and 
forming  an  excellent  harbor.  The  sound  at  this  point 
connecting  with  the  Swedish  coast,  is  eighteen  miles 
wide,  and  through  it,  all  the  vessels  pass,  entering  the 
Baltic.  Copenhagen  is  built  on  level  land,  which  rises 
only  a  few  feet  above  the  water,  and  by  numerous  canals 
the  commerce  is  brought  into  the  heart  of  the  city. 
The  city  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  on  the  outside 
of  which  is  a  moat  one  hundred  feet  wide,  filled  with 
water,  and  crossed  by  drawbridges.  The  city  is  well 
fortified,  having  many  forts,  or  battlements  around 
its  walls,  besides  three  large  forts,  built  out  in  the 
sound. 

Here  is  a  large  navy  harbor,  containing  the  Danish 
fleet  with  many  old  three  deckers,  that  have  achieved 
victories,  more  than  one  hundred-  years  ago,  and  here 
also,  are  many  iron  clad  ships,  of  the  latest  model.  The 
streets  of  Copenhagen,  are  mostly  wide,  the  houses  high, 
built  of  gray  stone.  The  city  contains  many  fine  parks, 
and  130,000  inhabitants.  Here  are  many  elegant  public 
buildings,  the  most  remarkable  of  which,  is  the  Savior's 


D  E  N  M  A  K  K  .  65 

Church,  containing  a  tower,  two  hundred  and  ninety 
feet  high,  and  ascended  by  winding  stairs,  on  the  out- 
side A  view  from  this  tower,  is  very  picturesque 
overlooking  the  city,  with  its  many  parks,  canals, 
forts  and  harbors ;  and  the  Swedish  coast  far  in  the 
distance.  Among  the  many  curiosities  of  the  city,  is 
the  exchange  palace,  with  its  singular  spire,  representing 
in  its  formation,  four  dragons,  with  their  tails  twisted 
together,  and  tapering  upwards,  after  the  fashion  of  a 
corkscrew,  while  their  heads  are  turned  downwards,  and 
standing  out  so  as  to  represent  the  four  points  of  the 
compass. 

The  royal  park  is  said  to  be  among  the  finest  in 
Europe,  containing  large  trees,  between  which  are 
flower  gardens,  beautiful  walks,  and  fountains.  The 
singing  of  birds,  and  chattering  of  squirrels,  might 
cause  a  person  to  imagine  himself  in  a  native  forest, 
instead  of  being  in  the  heart  of  a  populous  city. 

Outside  of  the  city  walls,  is  located  the  Trivoli 
gardens,  which  is  a  great  place  of  resort  for  people  of 
all  classes,  which  is  to  Copenhagen,  what  the  Champs 
Elysees  is  to  Paris.  Here  are  theatres,  menageries, 
museums,  bowling  alleys,  circuses,  and  numerous  cafes, 
supplied  with  bands  of  music,  making  it  the  gayest 
place  in  Denmark. 

Copenhagen  is  the  only  place  in  Europe,  where  1  saw 
the  horse  cars  in  general  use.  Here  are  many  lines 
running  to  different  parts  of  the  city,  carrying  as  many 
passengers  on  the  tops  of  the  cars,  as  in  the  inside,  and 
all  for  two  cents  apiece. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


MISTAKEN  IDEN^TITY, 


While  at  my  hotel  in  Copenhagen,  I  was  called  on  by 
two  gentlemen,  who  wished  to  see  me  on  business;  one 
of  whom  was  an  editor  of  a  daily  paper,  and  the  other  a 
banker.  Through  an  interpreter,  they  explained  the 
object  of  their  visit,  by  saying,  that  they  were  opera- 
ting extensively  in  United  States  bonds,  and  wished  my 
opinion  with  regard  to  repudiation.  In  reply,  I  told 
them  that  the  United  States  was  a  large  country,  with 
immense  resources,  and  all  its  debts  would  undoubtedly 
be  paid  in  full.  In  answer  to  this  opinion,  they  referred 
to  somethings  in  government  affairs,  which  I  was  unac- 
quainted with,  and  felt  almost  ashamed  to  acknowledged 
my  ignorance  of  these  matters.  But  I  apologized  by 
saying :  that  I  was  not  a  politician,  consequently  was 
not  well  posted  in  political  affairs.  They  next  asked  me 
if  I  had  not  been  Governor  General  of  Illinois.  I  replied 
that  I  was  a  farmer,  and  never  had  held  office,  but  there 
was  a  man  whose  name  sounded  like  mine,  that  had 
been  govenor  of  the  state.     After   asking  a  few   other 


MISTAKEN      IDENTITY.  67 

questions,  they  picked  up  their  hats,  and  making  low 
bows  departed. 

Next  morning  the  clerk  of  the  hotel,  read  and 
explained  to  me  a  long  editorial  in  the  morning  paper, 
in    which  the    editor    stated,  that    ex-governor  general 

M .  of  Illinois,  U.  S.,  w^as  stopping  at  hotel  Phoenix, 

and  having  called  on  him,  obtained  some  items,  relating 
to  American  aifairs.  In  this  article  he  gave  a  full 
discription  of  m3'  personal  appearance,  and  supposed 
political  acts,  not  forgetting  to  state  that  I  had  stolen 
two  hundred  and  twenty-three  thousand  dollars,  from 
the  state,  besides  making  an  attempt  to  rob  the  general 
government  out  of  a  large  amount.  And  being 
detected  in  these  robberies,  caused  me  to  deny  my 
identity,  claiming  always  to  have  been  a  private  citizen, 
and  closing  the  article  by  comparing  my  case  to  that 
of  General  Arnold,  when  traveling  through  France. 

I  did  not  feel  myself  much  flattered  by  this  news- 
paper article,  besides  it  did  me  a  great  injury,  as  it 
pointed  me  out  to  the  hordes  of  beggars,  w^ho  infest  the 
city,  and  fall  on  every  tourist,  w^ho  is  supposed  to  have 
plenty  of  money.  Next  day,  on  leaving  the  hotel,  I 
found  at  the  door,  a  crowd  of  beggars,  of  all  ages,  and 
sexes,  all  of  whom,  were  clamorous  for  money.  I  made 
an  effort  to  pass  them  by,  but  this  w^as  not  easily  done, 
as  they  followed  me  for  some  w^ays,  with  their  old  dirty 
hats  run  into  my  face.  One  old  man  addressed  himself 
to  me,  in  an  earnest  manner,  making  rapid  jestures 
with  his  bare,  skeleton-looking  arms,  which  were  thrust 
almost  into  my  face.     I  inquired  of  my  guide  what  the 


68  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

old  man  was  saying.  He  replied :  "  that  I  was  a  stingy 
cuss,  after  having  stolen  seven  million  dollars  from  my 
government,  now  refuse  to  give  a  poor  beggar  a  penny.'' 

SWEDEN. 

After  spending  sometime  in  Denmark,  I  crossed  the 
sound,  and  made  a  short  tour  through  Sweden.  The 
country  through  which  I  traveled,  is  generally  level,  with 
occasional  hills  covered  with  stone  and  gravel,  and  with 
some  marshes,  and  small  lakes.  The  land  naturally  is 
not  rich,  but  some  of  it  is  made  so,  by  artificial  means, 
and  produces  fine  crops. 

North  of  Helsingborg,  along  the  straits,  there  is  a 
range  of  mountains,  or  high  hills,  which  contain  neither 
timber  nor  veojetation  of  anv  kind. 

Malmo  is  an  old  seaport,  with  a  good  harbor,  and 
considerable  commerce;  and  lines  of  steamers  run  from 
here  to  different  cities  on  the  Baltic. 

The  Swedes  and  Danes,  have  frequently  been  styled, 
the  French  of  the  North,  on  account  of  their  easy 
manners,  and  politeness  to  strangers.  A  person  travel- 
ing through  these  countries,  must  notice  this  charac- 
teristic among  the  people.  Whatever  tourists  may 
think  of  the  climate  and  soil,  they  must  admire  the 
politeness  of  its  citizens. 

PRUSSIA. 

At  Malmo,  Sweden,  we  went  aboard  of  a  steamer  for 
the  southern  coast  of  the  Baltic,  and  one  hundred  and 


PRUSSIA.  69 

forty  miles  sail,  brought  us  to  Stralsund,  Prussia,  which 
is  situated  on  the  straits  of  Gellen.  This  city  contains 
about  25,000  inhabitants,  and  has  an  ancient  appearance 
with  njany  tine  old  buildinij^s,  among  which  are  two 
churches,  which  were  built  in  the  twelfth  centurv. 
Stralsund  is  of  no  great  commercial  importance,  but  it 
lias  figure<I  extensively  in  the  different  wars  of  Europe, 
and  many  a  bloody  battle  has  been  fought  over  its 
walls.  It  is  strongly  fortified,  being  surrounded  with 
two  walls,  and  two  moats,  and  is  styled  the  Gibraltar  of 
the  Baltic. 

The  country  in  the  north  part  of  Prussia  is  level,  with 
many  small  lakes  and  marshes;  in  some  places  the  soil  is 
light,  with  sandy  knolls  and  barren  Hats.  Wheat,  rye, 
oats  and  barley,  are  the  principal  productions,  of  the 
countiy  and  it  has  frequently  been  styled  the  granary  of 
Europe.  There  are  many  artificial  groves  in  this  country, 
some  of  which  are  very  beautiful,  and  show  what  a 
large  amount  of  timber  can  be  raised  on  a  small  piece  of 
ground.  When  a  tract  of  land  is  worn  out,  and  becomes 
unproductive,  it  is  planted  out  with  trees,  and  turned 
into  a  forest.  These  groves  can  be  seen  in  all  stages 
from  one  year,  to  one  hundred  years  standing.  The 
trees  in  these  groves  are  mostly  pine,  planted  about  ten 
feet  apart,  and  they  grow  tall  and  straight,  sometimes 
eighty  or  ninety  feet  without  limbs.  At  a  proper  time 
the  timber  is  cut  off,  and  the  roots  taken  out,  when  the 
land  is  again  put  under  cultivation. 

Much  of  the  farm   work   in  this  country,  is  done  by 
women.     T  have  frequently  seen  them  plowing,  mowing, 


70  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

cutting  grain,  etc.  In  one  place,  I  saw  fifty  or  sixty 
women,  engaged  on  an  excavation  for  a  railroad,  while 
their  overseer,  a  foppish  looking  man,  wearing  white  kid 
gloves,  with  a  cigar  in  his  month,  was  walking  around 
ojiving  directions  to  them.  It  is  very  common  here  for 
women  to  hire  out  by  the  day  or  month,  to  work  on  a 
farm,  while  their  husbands,  and  sons  are  serving  in  the 
army. 


BERLIN. 

The  capital  of  Prussia,  is  built  on  a  level  sandy  plain, 
and  is  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  Europe,  containing 
over  an  half  million  inhabitants.  The  streets  are  mostly 
wide  and  straight,  with  houses  constructed  in  the 
modern  style  of  architecture,  which  gives  to  the  city 
a  strong  resemblance  to  Philadelphia.  The  great  avenue 
called  Under  the  Linden,  extending  from  the  Royal 
Palace,  to  the  Brandenburg  Gate,  is  a  beautiful  prom- 
enade, adorned  with  shade  trees,  and  along  it  are  the 
best  stores  in  the  city. 

The  river  Spree  runs  through  the  middle  of  the  city, 
and  connected  with  it,  are  numerous  canals  which 
conduct  the  commerce  into  different  parts.  The  Royal 
Palace  is  situated  near  the  heart  ,of  the  city,  and  for 
elegance  and  grandeur,  far  exceeds  any  of  the  Royal 
Palaces  that  I  have  visited  in  Europe.  The  Royal  family 
were  at  their  summer  residence,  and  the  palace  was 
open  to  the  inspection  of  the  public.  In  order  to  be 
admitted,  we  had  to  procure  tickets  from  an  officer  of  the 


PRUSSIA.  71 

royal  staff,  and  have  our  names  registered  in  a  book ;  canes 
and  utnberellas  etc.,  were  deposited,  and  checks  given 
for  them,  cloth  slippers  were  furnished  us  to  draw  over  our 
boots.  After  going  through  the  trying  ordeal  of  visiting 
;i  number  of  offices  where  our  names  were  signed  and 
<'Ountersigned,  a  conductor  took  us  through  seventeen 
apartments  of  the  palace,  and  things  of  interest  were 
pointed  out.  In  the  crown  and  jewel  rooms,  are  manv 
things  of  great  value,  composed  of  massive  gold,  set  off 
with  wreaths  of  diamonds.  Here  we  saw  the  punch  bowl 
of  Frederick  the  Great,  made  of  solid  silver,  and  holding 
fifty-two  gallons.  In  this  bowl,  the  great  monarch  kept 
his  beer. 


DRESDEX. 

One  hundred  and  thirty  miles  from  Berlin,  we  came 
to  the  fine  old  city  of  Dresden,  the  capital  of  the  king- 
dom of  Saxony.  The  city  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  Elbe,  over  wliich  arc  two  beautiful  stone  bridijes, 
one  fourth  of  a  mile  in  length.  Dresden  contains  a 
population  of  loO,000,  and  is  well  built  with  many  wide 
streets  bordered  by  high  stone  houses,  which  have  a  white, 
clean,  appearance.  It  has  many  fine  public  buildings, 
with  beautifid  parks,  squares  and  pleasure  grounds,  and 
is  a  favorite  residence  for  English  and  American  travel- 
ers, who  prolong  their  stay  on  the  Continent.  By  them, 
it  is  styled  the  Florence  of  the  North,  on  account  of  its 
good  hotels,  cheap  living,  and  its  fine  works  of  art. 

The  museum    of  Dresden,    is    among   the  largest    in 


72  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

Europe,  and  occupies  all  sides  of  a  public  square.  The 
armory  department  at  this  museum  is  the  largest  and 
finest  in  the  world,  far  exceeding  the  Tower  of  London. 
Here  arms  and  trophies  of  war,  that  belonged-  to  the 
middle  ages,  are  collected,  and  exhibited  to  the  public. 
Life-size  figures  representing  kings  and  great  warriors, 
are  seated  on  horseback,  clothed  in  their  armor,  and 
holding  in  their  hand,  the  sword  used  by  them  in 
achieving  their  victories.  While  in  this  part  of  the 
museum,  we  met  with  an  adventure,  which  came  nigh 
being  serious.  The  guide  that  conducted  us  through 
the  museum,  could  speak  no  English,  and  his  explanation 
was  only  valuable  to  those  of  the  party  who  understood 
German ;  on  this  account  one  of  our  English  companions 
refused  to  pay  the  usual  fees.  The  conductor  placed 
himself  in  the  door,  to  prevent  him  from  passing  out,  when 
our  English  friend  threw  him  to  one  side,  and  in  return 
the  conductor  drew  a  pistol  and  fired;  the  ball  passed 
through  the  coat  and  vest,  leaving  a  red  mark  on  the 
skin  under  the  Englishman's  arm.  This  affair  created 
a  great  excitement,  and  we  found  ourselves  surrounded 
by  a  file  of  soldiers,  and  under  arrest.  The  chief  officer 
of  the  museum  came  with  an  interpreter,  and  when 
understanding  the  trouble,  he  furnished  us  with  a  guide 
who  could  converse  in  English,'  to  show  us  again 
through    the   museum. 

The  carrvinor  chairs,  are  much  used  in  Dresden,  and 
are  very  popular,  being  no  more  expensive  than  a  cab. 
These  chairs  are  nicely  made  with  silk  curtains  that 
close  up  all  around,  and  are  caried  by  two  men  like  the 


GERMANY.  73 

old  fashioned  hand-barrow.  When  a  hidy  wishes  to  go 
to  church  or  a  ball,  she  sends  for  one  of  these  chairs, 
and  is  carried  there  and  back,  by  men  who  make  this 
their  business. 

Near  the  city  is  the  Held  of  the  great  battle  of  October 
1813,  fought  by  Napolean  against  the  allies,  and  here  is  a 
monument  built  of  red  granite,  to  the  memory  of  Moreau. 
on  the  spot  where  he  fell. 

From  Dresden  we  ascended  the  Elbe,  in  a  small 
steamer,  and  made  a  short  tour  through  Austria,  stop- 
ping on  our  return  at  Saxon  Switzerland.  This  place 
so  much  spoken  of  by  tourists,  consists  of  mountain 
scenery,  with  green  valleys,  and  rocky  cliffs,  extending 
for  some  ways  alonor  the  Elbe.  But  I  think  its  beautv 
is  much  overrated. 


GERMANY. 

In  the  north  part  of  Germany,  especially  in  Hanover 
and  Saxony,  the  country  is  level,  but  in  the  south  and 
west  part,  it  is  divided  between  mountains  and  plains. 
There  is  no  fencing  in  this  country,  consequently  all 
kinds  of  stock  are  herded  while  feeding  on  pasture. 
But  few  fjirm  houses  are  seen,  as  people  live  mostlv 
in  villages;  in  some  cases,  a  long  way  from  their  farms. 
Public  roads,  seldom  exceed  twenty  feet  in  width,  and 
are  all  macadamized.  Fruit  or  ornamental  trees  are 
planted  on  each  side  of  the  roads,  which  adds  much  to 
the  beauty  of  the  country.  Coal  and  peat,  are  found  in 
many  places,  but  timber  is  scarce,  and  seldom  met  with 


74  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

except  on  the  mountains,  or  artificial  groves.  Beets  for 
the  manufacture  of  sugar,  are  raised  extensively,  and  also 
white  poppies,  for  the  production  of  opium. 

The  hotels  in  Germany,  as  well  as  those  in  other  parts 
of  the  Continent,  are  kept  on  the  restaurant  plan,  so  that 
a  person  pays  only  for  what  he  gets.  Charges  are  made 
out  in  writing,  and  in  some  cases,  enumerating  each 
article  of  diet  furnished,  as  well  as  lodging,  service, 
candles,  soap,  etc.,  and  the  waiters  always  expect  fees 
in  addition  to  these  charges.  In  some  places  a  traveler 
is  surprised  to  find  two  bills  to  pay,  one  at  the  office  of 
the  hotel,  and  the  other  at  the  office  of  the  restaurant. 

The  cities  of  Germany,  like  other  countries  of  Europe 
difier  in  many  things  from  those  of  the  United  States. 
Here  people  of  various  stations  in  life,  as  well  as  occu- 
pations, are  mostly  know^n  by  their  dress.  Clergymen, 
hackmen,  students  at  college,  waiters  at  hotels,  wash- 
women and  flower  girls,  are  dressed  in  uniform.  In 
hotels  or  restaurants,  women  are  never  seen  waiting  on 
the  table,  but  in  many  places,  especially  in  France, 
women  are  seen  acting  as  clerks  or  cashiers.  It  is  very 
common  for  people  here  to  pay  money  for  service 
rendered,  let  it  be  ever  so  light,  such  as  changing  money 
or  giving  information,  and  I  have  never  met  a  person 
who  would  not  accept  money  for  service  of  this  kind,  if 
oftered. 

That  part  of  Germany  lately  ceded  to  Prussia,  is 
full  of  soldiers,  and  martial  music  is  heard  late  and  early 
on  the  streets  of  every  city  or  town.  This  large  army 
is  supported  by  the  people,  on  whom  they  are  quartered. 


G  E  R  M  A  X  Y  75 

which  causes  a  bad  feeling  towards  the  Government. 
In  some  cases  people  pay  their  array  tax  by  taking- 
soldiers  in  their  house  to  board,  who  become  part  of 
their  own  family. 

I  have  been  surprised  to  see  with  what  veneration  the 
Germans  hold  the  stork;  it  being  regarded  as  a  sacred 
bird,  which  no  person  would  think  of  killing,  or  molest- 
ing in  any  way.  These  birds  are  quite  tame,  and  are 
frequently  seen  following  the  plowman,  or  feeding  with 
the  chickens  in  the  barnyards.  The  storks  frequently 
build  their  nests  on  the  top  of  chimneys  which  shows  as 
large  as  a  hogshead,  and  will  continue  to  lay  and  hatch 
in  the  same  nest  for  many  years  in  succession.  When 
a  nest  is  commenced  on  a  chimney  top,  the  flue  is 
stopped  up,  and  no  further  use  is  made  of  it,  as  it  would 
be  an  omen  of  bad  luck  to  disturb  them  in  any  way. 


A  TOUR  THROUGH   GERMANY. 

Seventy-one  miles  west  of  Dresden,  we  came  to 
Leipsic,  a  city  of  some  80,000  inhabitants,  and  largely 
engaged  in  the  book  manufactory.  Here  are  over  two 
hundred  book  establishments,  with  three  hundred  steam 
printing  presses,  where  papers,  books,  and  magazines 
are  printed  in  difierent  languages  to  circulate  all  over 
Europe.  The  city  is  principally  built  of  white  stone, 
and  is  more  flourishing  than  any  other  city  that  I  visited 
in  Germany. 

Close  by  Leipsic  is  jDointed  out  the  great  battlefield  of 


76  BEYOXD      THE      ATLANTIC. 

October,  1813,  where  the  French  army,  under  Napoleon, 
was  defeated  by  the  allies. 

Two  hundred  and  sixty-eight  miles  south-west  of  Leipsic 
we  came  to  Frankfort-on-the-Main.  The  route  between 
these  i^oints  is  very  interesting,  passing  through  parts 
of  five  German  states,  and  through  many  old  fortified 
cities,  where  the  ruins  of  old  feudal  castles  and  towers, 
are  still  to  be  seen. 

FRAXKFORT-OX-THE-MAIN. 

The  city  of  Frankfort  is  situated  on  tiie  north  bank  of 
the  river  Main,  and  on  a  level  plain,  which  is  of  many 
miles  in  extent.  The  term,  On-the-Main,  is  used  to 
distinoruish  this  city  from  Frankfort-on-the-Oder.  The 
city  contains  a  population  of  100,000,  and  is  of  great 
antiquity,  as  its  history  dates  back  to  the  fourth  century. 
For  many  centuries  it  was  the  capital  of  Germany,  and 
here  most  of  her  Emperors  were  crowned.  Frankfort 
is  well  built,  with  many  wide  streets,  beautiful  parks 
and  squares,  and  contains  a  large  number  of  fine  old 
churches  and  palaces.  In  the  Jewish  part  of  the  city, 
the  streets  are  very  narrow,  and  the  houses  are  built 
projecting  over  into  the  streets.  Each  story  above, 
projects  out  furtlier  than  the  one  below,  giving  to  the 
rooms  above,  an  additional  width.  From  the  river  the 
city  has  a  beautiful  appearance ;  the  houses  being  mostly 
six  stories  high,  built  of  white  stone,  and  at  a  distance 
look  like  palaces  of  marble.  The  river  Main  is  naviga- 
ble at  this  point,  and  small  steamboat?^  run  from  here 
into  the  Rhine,  twenty  miles  distant. 


GERMANY.  77 

Frankfort  formerly  was  one  of  the  four  independent 
<nties  of  Germany,  making  its  own  laws,  the  same  as  other 
members  of  the  Rhinish  Confederacy.  But  it  is  now 
iittached  to  Prussia,  with  five  thousand  Prussian  soldiers 
quartered  on  it,  for  whom  it  is  taxed  to  support.  In  no 
place,  in  all  my  travels,  have  I  found  so  bitter  feeling 
against  the  government  as  here.  The  city  has  not  only 
lost  its  independence,  but  much  of  its  wealth  is  taken 
to  support  a  policy,  with  which  it  has  no  sympathy. 
Since  its  annexation  to  Prussia,  it  has  suffered  much  in 
commerce,  and  public  confidence,  and  no  longer  sustains 
that  high  position  among  the  cities  of  Europe  it  once 
had. 


HOMBURG. 

Ten  miles  north  of  Frankfort,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Taurus  mountains  is  located  the  town  of  Homburii:, 
ihuch  celebrated  as  a  watering  and  gambling  place. 
Here  are  fine  springs  of  mineral  water,  and  the  grounds, 
around  them  are  his^hlv  ornamented  with  shade  trees, 
among  which  are  fountains,  artificial  lakes,  deer  parks, 
beautiful  walks,  and  drive  ways.  Each  morning  from 
six  to  eight  o'clock,  thousands  of  people  collect  around 
these  springs  to  drink  the  water,  which  is  dealt  out  in 
mugs  by  waiting  girls,  while  a  band  consisting  of  sixty 
musicians  play  for  the  amusement  of  the  people. 
During  the  watering  season  people  from  all  parts  of 
Europe  collect  here  talking  different  languages,  and 
representing  a  great  variety  of  fashions  and  costumes. 


78  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Horaburg  belongs  to  gamblers,  who  organized  them- 
selves into  a  company  some  twenty-six  years  ago, 
under  a  royal  charter,  building  many  fine  hotels,  and 
large  blocks  of  buildings,  ornamenting  the  grounds, 
sparing  no  money  in  making  the  place  attractive. 
They  built  the  kursaal,  (or  gambling  house)  at  the  cost 
of  one  million  guilders,  Avhich  for  size  and  grandeur 
compares  favorably  with  many  of  the  royal  palaces  of 
Europe.  This  building  contains  many  apartments, 
consisting  of  gambling,  dancing,  and  reading  rooms, 
all  of  w^hich  are  furnished  in  the  most  extravagant 
manner.  The  reading  rooms,  of  which  there  are  three 
in  number,  are  supplied  with  papers  from  many  different 
countries,  and  in  a  great  variety  of  languages. 

At  ten  o'clock  each  day  the  gambling  commences, 
and  continues  without  any  intermission,  until  eleven  at 
night.  There  are  four  apartments  allotted  to  gambling, 
each  of  which  has  a  large  table  where  the  gamblers 
are  seated,  and  all  persons  having  their  pile  of  gold 
or  silver  before  them,  with  a  rake  to  draw  in  the  money 
when  they  win.  One  man  represents  the  bank,  and 
another  the  party  playing,  and  between  them  the  cards 
are  dealt,  and  it  does  not  require  more  than  a  half 
minute  to  decide  the  game,  when  the  winning  party 
hauls  in  the  money  with  their  rake,  putting  it  up  again 
for  another  chance.  The  bank  always  retains  so  many 
chances  in  its  favor,  diminishing  the  chances  of  the 
playing  public.  In  addition  to  the  forty-eight  players 
seated  at  each  table,  thosQ  looking  on  frequently  throw 
down  money  and  take  their  chances.    Some  of  the  tables 


GERMANY  79 

use  the  roulette  wheel,  instead  of  cards,  and  women 
take  i^art  in  the  game,  as  well  as  men,  and  appear  to 
have  as  much  money. 


RHIXE  VALLEY. 

The  valley  of  the  Rhine  in  many  places,  is  eight  or 
ten  miles  in  width,  and  is  said  to  be  unequalled  in 
fertility  by  any  other  district  of  country  in  Europe. 
Farming  land  here,  in  most  cases  belongs  to  its  occu- 
pants, and  is  very  valuable,  but  is  bought  and  sold  to 
no  great  extent,  being  retained  in  families  from  one 
generation  to  another.  The  average  rental  of  land  here, 
is  from  ten  to  twelve  dollars  per  acre,  while  laborers  on 
a  farm,  seldom  receive  over  twenty-five  cents  per  day. 
There  is  much  w^ealth  among  the  people  here,  and  many 
of  the  German  stock  and  money  agencies  of  the  United 
States,  have  their  origin  along  the  Rhine.  The  river 
Rhine  has  even  banks,  a  rapid  currant,  and  its  waters 
have  a  milky  color,  caused  by  the  glaciers  of  Switzer- 
land. Many  lines  of  steamboats  are  running  up  and 
down  the  river,  mostly  loaded  with  passengers.  Along 
the  river  there  is  almost  one  continuous  village,  while 
back  towards  the  mountains,  are  many  fine  towns  and 
cities.  Havino*  traveled  several  hundred  miles  in  the 
Rhine  valley,  and  visited  many  of  its  old  cities,  a  few  of 
which  I  shall  mention. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  five  miles  from  the 
Rhine,  is  located  the  city  of  Weisbaden,  formerly  the 


80  BEYOND     THE      A  TLA  X  TIC. 

capital  of  the  Duchy  of  Nassau.  This  is  the  oldest 
watering  place  in  Germany;  its  waters  having  been 
used  for  medicinal  purposes,  more  than  two  thousand 
years  ago.  During  the  summer  months,  it  is  crowded 
with  visitors,  filling  its  thirty-five  hotels  to  overflowing. 
The  great  hoiling  spring  of  Weisbaden,  is  near  the 
center  of  the  town,  and  its  smoking  waters  are  conveyed 
to  many  bath  houses  in  its  vicinity. 

The  kursaal  here,  contains  the  usual  number  of  gam- 
bling, reading,  dancing  and  banquet  rooms,  while  the 
squares  around  it,  are  filled  with  shops  of  trade.  Here 
are  beautiful  walks  and  driveways,  with  flower  gardens, 
fountains  of  water,  and  artificial  lakes,  around  which 
the  band  plays,  while  the  people  drink  their  beer,  or 
indulsje  in  their  ciorars. 

The  city  of  Mayence,  lies  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Rhine,  and  contains  40,000  inhabitants.  It  has  an  ancient 
appearance,  with  narrow  streets,  and  dreary  looking 
alleys.  This  city  is  strongly  fortified,  being  surrounded 
by  three  walls,  and  is,  at  present,  the  head  quarters  of 
the  Prussian  army.  Mayence,  is  said  to  be  the  oldest 
city  on  the  Rhine,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  Rhinish 
province,  when  the  Romans  held  this  country.  Part 
of  an  old  Roman  aqueduct,  built  nineteen  hundred  years 
ago,  is  still  standing,  as  well  as  the  tomb  or  monument 
of  Drusus,  bearing  date,  B.  C.  48.  On  a  public  square 
stands  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  Guttenburg,  the 
inventor  of  printing,  this  city  being  his   native   place. 

The  river  here  is  crossed  by  a  pontoon  bridge,  and 
also  by  a  steam  ferry  boat.     Standing  out  in  the  river,  are 


GERMANY.  81 

sixteen  floating  mills,  with   their  machinery  moved  by 
the  cm-rent. 

Twenty-six  miles  up  the  river  from  Mayence,  is  located 
the  old  city  of  Worms,  which  has  been  so  often  referred 
to  by  church  historians.  Its  streets  are  narrow,  with 
many  of  its  houses  running  up  to  a  pinnacle,  exhibiting 
their  red  tile  roofs,  which  look  at  a  distance  like  a  large 
number  of  brick  kilns.  Here  is  an  old  cathedral,  which 
dates  back  to  the  eighth  century,  also  many  other  build- 
ings of  great  antiquity.  In  1521,  was  held  here,  the 
memorable  diet  to  settle  church  difficulties,  and  which 
was  attended  by  prelates  and  crowned  heads  from 
various  countries  of  Europe.  At  this  diet  Martin  Luther 
pointed  out  the  many  errors  of  the  Catholic  Church,  and 
vindicated  the  principles  of  church  reform  in  the  pres- 
ence of  those  high  in  authority. 

Opposite  Worms  is  an  island  in  the  river  where 
tradition  says,  the  valiant  Siegfried,  killed  the  dragon. 
This  romantic  story,  founded  on  Rhinish  mythology, 
was  believed  by  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  this  country, 
and  paintings  representing  this  scene,  said  to  be  fifteen 
hundred  years  old,  are  seen  in  public  galleries  along  the 
Rhine.  I  have  seen  in  diflTerent  parts  of  Germany, 
bronze  and  marble  statuary  of  this  wonderful  scene, 
from  a  small  toy,  to  life  size,  where  the  man,  horse,  and 
dragon,  are  of  natural  size. 

HEIDELBERG, 

Is  built  on  the  river  Necker,  close  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  five  miles  from  the  Rhine,  and  is  a  place  where 


82  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

tourists  frequently  stay  some  time,  as  living  is  cheap, 
and  hotels  good.  The  Heidelberg  University,  estab- 
lished here  more  than  six  hundred  years  ago,  is  said 
to  be  the  best  institution  of  learning  in  G.erraany. 
It  is  now  attended  by  about  seven  hundred  students, 
who  go  dressed  in  uniform,  wearing  a  badge  on 
their  arm,  which  denotes  their  order.  Above  the 
city  is  a  fish  pond,  where  trout  are  propagated  for  the 
market,  and  can  be  seen  in  all  stages,  from  the  size  of  a 
minnow,  to  that  of  a  large  fish,  weighing  four  or  five 
pounds. 

Back  of  the  city  is  the  old  Heidelberg  Castle,  now  in  a 
state  of  ruins.  It  stands  part  way  up  the  mountain, 
three  hundred  feet  above  the  city,  on  a  steep,  rocky 
cliflT  where  the  walls  of  the  outer  fortification,  below 
the  castle,  are  two  hundred  feet  high.  The  castle  and 
grounds  around  it,  occupy  a  number  of  acres,  partly  cut 
out  of  the  rocks,  and  containing  shady  walks,  passing 
through  beautiful  pleasure  grounds.  Here  stone  fount- 
ains continue  to  furnish  water,  although  a  century  or 
more  has  passed  away,  since  their  use  has  been  required. 
This  castle  which  has  figured  so  extensively  in  the 
history  of  the  country,  was  built  in  the  twelfth  century, 
and  occupied  by  different  Electors  of  Palatine,  it  being  a 
royal  palace,  as  well  as  a  fortification.  It  is  built  of 
red  granite,  showing  much  beauty  in  its  construction, 
and  on  the  outside  of  the  walls  of  one  of  its  palaces,  are 
many  life  size  statues  of  warriors  and  noblemen,  belong- 
ing to  past  ages.  But  these  fine  palaces  are  now  in  a 
state  of  ruin,  the  walls  are  mostly  standing,  but  trees 


GERMANY.  83 

and  ivy,  .ire  growing  among  them,  and  are  now  the 
habitation  of  owls  and  bats.  Over  one  hundred  years 
ago,  the  French  army,  after  a  long  seige  tooktliis  castle, 
blew  up  one  of  its  towers  and  otherwise  damaged  it. 
Soon  after  this,  the  Elector  of  Palatine  became  King  of 
Bavaria,  and  moved  his  residence  to  Munich,  and  the 
castle  was  abandoned  to  its  fate. 

In  the  cellar  of  one  of  the  towers,  is  still  to  be  seen 
the  great  wine  tub,  twenty-three  feet  in  diameter,  and 
twentv-six  feet  hiorh,  with  staves  nine  inches  thick. 
Every  year  this  big  cask  was  filled  with  wine  from  the 
Electors  own  vineyard,  although  a  century  or  more  has 
passed  since  it  was  used,  it  still  appears  in  a  good  state 
of  preservation. 

BADEN   BADEN. 

The  chief  of  watering  places,  is  situated  in  a  valley 
surrounded  by  mountains  or  hills,  of  the  Black  Forest, 
and  about  eight  miles  from  the  Rhine.  Passing  through 
the  city  is  a  small  stream,  called  Oos,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  flaged  with  flat  stone,  and  its  banks  are  walled 
up  to  the  level  of  the  street,  and  houses  built  thereon. 
The  valley  of  the  Oos,  is  narrow,  and  part  of  the  city  is 
built  on  the  side-hill,  rising  one  street  above  another, 
which  gives  to  the  place  a  picturesque  appearance. 
Along  the  valley,  as  well  as  on  the  hillside,  are  many 
beautiful  residences,  surrounded  by  green  meadows  and 
flower  gardens,  through  which  are  paved  walks,  and 
driveways. 


84  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Baden  Baden,  is  the  most  fasliionable  watering  place 
in  Europe,  and  here  are  collected  during  the  summer 
season,  kings  and  dukes,  with  other  sprigs  of  nobility, 
as  well  as  the  gay  and  fiishionable  people  from  differ- 
ent countries,  speaking  a  great  variety  of  languages. 
Although  the  city  contains  but  a  fcAv  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, it  has  some  of  the  finest  hotels  in  Europe,  and 
during  the  summer  months,  are  quartered  here,  from 
twenty  to  thirty  thousand  strangers  whose  principal 
amusements  are  gambling,  and  horse  racing. 

There  are  many  springs  here  of  diiferent  temperature, 
and  containing  various  grades  of  mineral  water.  The 
great  boiling  spring  is  168°  Farrenheit,  so  hot  as  to 
scald  a  person's  hand,  if  held  in  the  water.  A  large 
bath  house  stands  over  this  spring,  and  the  water  from 
it  is  conducted  to  other  bath  houses  in  the  vicinity. 
The  water  for  drinking  purposes,  flows  out  of  a  marble 
tank  in  the  pump  house,  and  every  morning  from  five  to 
six  o'clock,  crowds  of  people  call  here  to  drink  the  water 
while  the  band  plays,  always  commencing  with  the 
morning  hymn. 

Each  morning  large  flocks  of  goats  are  driven  in  from 
the  country,  and  the  milk  from  them  is  drank  warm. 
Close  by  here,  is  a  goat  house,  where  milking  is  going 
on,  and  people  drinking  it  from  the  mug  of  the  milk- 
maid, at  all  hours  of  the  day. 

The  Conversation  House,  or  kursaal  is  an  extensive 
V)uilding,  five  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length,  and 
adorned  by  a  Corinthian  portico  in  front.  It  contains 
many   apartments,   furnished   in   the   most    extravagant 


GERMANY.  85 

manner,  and  known  as  ball,  lecture,  banquet,  reading, 
and  gambling  rooms.  Around  the  kursaal,  are  beautiful 
pleasure  grounds,  shaded  with  trees,  lighted  with  gas, 
and  supplied  with  seats.  Every  evening,  many  thousand 
people  collect  here  to  listen  to  the  music,  as  they  drink 
their  beer,  or  sup  their  coiFee,  while  the  fashionably 
dressed  ladies  and  gentlemen,  are  promenading  back 
and  forth.  The  avenues  leading  through  these  grounds, 
are  fitted  up  with  bazars,  or  stalls  of  traders,  from 
Frankfort,  Paris,  and  Switzerland. 

According  to  history,  Baden  Baden,  has  been  a 
watering  j^lace  for  more  than  eighteen  hundred  years. 
Underground  baths  are  still  to  be  seen,  which  are  said  to 
have  been  built  by  the  Romans,  when  the}'  possessed 
this  country.  But  it  has  become  celebrated  within  the 
last  century,  when  gambling  was  introduced,  and  people 
collected  here  from  all  parts  of  Europe,  to  try  their  luck 
at  the  tables.  Much  of  the  money  obtained  from  visitors 
has  been  expended  in  ornamenting,  and  beautifying  the 
place,  so  as  to  make  it  attractive  to  strangers.  The 
streets  are  supplied  with  fountain  pumps,  some  of  which 
send  forth  cold,  and  others  hot  water.  Public  baths 
are  built,  where  the  poor  can  bathe  free  of  charge,  and 
here  is  a  molkin,  or  whey  cure,  to  which  the  poor  invalid 
can  have  access.  The  gamblers  pay  yearly  for  the 
use  of  the  buildings,  and  privilege  of  gambling,  three 
hundred  thousand  florins  to  the  city,  and  a  like  amount 
to  the  government  of  Baden,  which  almost  relieves  the 
people  from  taxation.  In  addition  to  this,  they  pay  a 
l>and  of  sixty  musicians,  to  play  for  the  public,  as  well  as 


86  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

policemen  to  guard  the  place,  and  men  to  wait  on 
visitors.  There  appears  to  be  no  odium  attached  to 
public  gambling ;  here,  it  being  alegitimate  business,  but 
private  gambling  is  considered  disreputable,  and  parties 
engaged  in  it  are  liable  to  a  fine. 

The  Catholic  Collegate  Church  here,  is  a  fine  speci- 
men of  antiquity,  built  in  the  tenth  century,  and  contains 
many  monuments  and  statues,  to  the  memory  of  warriors 
and  divines  of  past  ages.  Among  the  most  remarkable 
of  its  contents,  are  the  remains  of  a  priest  lying  in 
state.  The  bones  are  put  together  with  gold  wire,  and 
the  skeleton  adorned  with  'gold  lace,  containing  many 
jeAvels  with  diamond  sets,  and  the  whole  is  enclosed  in  a 
glass  case,  which  stands  on  a  marble  platform  near  the 
altar.  For  more  than  three  hundred  years,  the  remains 
of  this  old  priest  have  lain  here,  and  on  account  of  his 
goodness  and  piety,  the  church  intends  to  keep  him  until 
the  judgment  day. 


SURROUNDINGS  OF  BADEN  BADEN. 

On  the  topo  fa  mountain  above  the  city  are  the  ruins 
of  Hokenbaden  Castle,  which  was  built  in  the  tenth  cen- 
tury, and  occupied  in  turn  by  different  dukes  of  Baden. 
About  two  hundred  years  ago,  it  was  taken  by  the 
French  army,  and  some  of  its  tow^ers  blown  up;  but  a 
small  portion  of  it  has  been  restored,  and  occupied  by 
parties  who  keep  a  restaurant  and  beer  garden,  for  the 
accommodation  of  visitors.  The  walls  of  this  castle 
unlike  those  of  Heidelberg  Castle,  are  rough,  and  show 


GERMANY.  87 

but  little  skill  in  their  construction.  Portions  of  the 
walls  have  fallen  down,  and  large  size  trees  have  grown 
np  between  them.  The  highest  part  now  standing  is  the 
tower  of  Knights  Temple,  being  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  high,  and  at  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  and 
seventy  feet  above  the  Rhine  valley.  A  view  from  the 
top  of  these  walls  is  very  fine;  below  us,  was  the  great 
Rhine  valley,  eight  miles  wide,  spread  out  like  a  ma]) 
with  its  numerous  towns  and  cities,  and  farming  villages 
almost  without  number.  Under  the  castle,  are  many 
apartments  cut  out  of  the  native  rock,  which  can  be  en- 
tered only  with  the  assistance  of  a  guide,  carrying  lights. 
These  vaults  were  used  in  former  times  as  a  prison,  where 
have  been  enacted  many  deeds  of  horror. 

Overlooking  Baden  Baden,  but  in  a  different  direction, 
is  Mt.  Mercury,  on  the  top  of  which  stands  a  stone 
tower,  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  high.  'Near 
this  tower  is  an  image,  in  the  form  of  a  human  being, 
cut  out  of  stone,  and  dedicated  to  the  god  Mercury. 
But  little  is  known  of  the  history  of  this  image.  Tradi- 
tion says  it  was  erected  over  two  thousand  years  ago, 
by  a  heathen  nobleman  who  was  restored  to  health  at 
these  springs.  On  the  image  there  is  an  inscription 
reading  thus:  "To  the  God  of  Mercury,  Curious,  the 
tlie  merchant,  hath  erected  this,  in  fulfillment  of  his  vow, 
because  of  restored  health." 

Above  the  city,  reached  by  three  hundred  and 
sixty-two  stone  steps,  stands  the  royal  palace,  the 
summer  residence  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Baden.  Under 
this  palace  are  many  vaulted   chambers    cut  out  of  the 


88  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

native  rock,  ami  used  as  prisons,  during  the  twelfth  and 
thirteenth  centuries,  being  the  head  quarters  of  the 
Roman  inquisition  for  this  part  of  Germany.  An 
account  of  many  bloody  tragedies,  which  took  place 
here,  are  given  in  the  book  of  martyrs,  witH  which 
many  of  the  readers  are  familiar.  Each  one  of  our  party 
being  provided  with  lights,  preceded  by  our  guide, 
we  commenced  a  descent  into  these  underground  vaults. 
Here  we  found  apartments  guarded  by  stone  doors,  ten 
or  twelve  inches  thick,  which  as  they  turned  on  their 
hinges  with  a  grating  noise,  almost  made  me  shudder. 
At  last  we  came  to  the  center  of  the  prison,  and  on 
looking  up  eighty-five  feet,  as  if  from  a  well,  we  could 
see  the  light  of  day.  Passing  through  a  number  of 
rooms,  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  subterranean  pas- 
sage, one  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  connecting  with 
the  castle  on  the  mountain.  Through  this  passage, 
heretics  were  brought  to  be  tried,  and  executed.  Next 
we  came  to  a  large  room,  with  niches  in  the  walls,  to 
receive  lamps.  This  was  the  court  room,  where  prison- 
ers were  tried,  and  from  which  there  is  a  passage 
leading  to  the  place  of  execution.  At  the  end  of 
this  passage,  there  is  a  recess  in  the  wall,  where  the 
Virgin  ]\Iary  stood.  The  prisoner  having  been  found 
guilty,  was  ordered  to  kiss  the  Virgin,  when  her  iron 
arms  would  open  to  embrace  him,  and  the  many  knives 
in  her  metalic  mantle  would  cut  him  in  peices;  at  the 
same  time,  a  trap-door  would  open  for  the  victim  to  fall 
through,  to  where  a  current  of  water  would  wash  off  the 
remains.     In  some  of  the  rooms  are  hooks  and  staples 


GERMANY.  89 

where  implements  of  tortm-e  were  fastened.  Hundreds 
of  victims  were  brought  in  at  night,  imprisoned,  tried, 
and  executed  in  these  underground  vaults,  while  the 
outside  world  would  know  nothing  of  it. 

Two  miles  from  Baden  Baden,  in  the  valley  of  the 
Oos,  is  the  convent  of  Lichenthal,  a  place  famous  in 
church  history,  and  known  during  the  thirty  years  war, 
as  the  stronghold  of  Catholicism.  In  one  of  the  old 
churches  here,  are  the  skeletons  of  two  females,  kept  in 
fflass  cases  on  each  side  of  the  altar.  These  remains 
are  decorated  with  jewels  and  diamonds,  with  many 
o-old  rinofs  on  the  finorers  and  toes.  One  of  these  relics 
is  of  a  woman,  who  founded  the  church,  and  died  in  the 
year  1260. 

After  a  stay  of  ten  days  in  Baden  Baden,  we  left  it 
and  made  a  short  tour  through  the  Black  Forest,  after 
which  we  crossed  the  Rhine,  and  visited  Strasburg, 
France. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


STRASBURG. 


This  is  an  old,  and  strongly  fortified  city  on  the 
French  frontier,  being  separated  from  Germany,  by  the 
river  Rhine,  and  contains  a  population  of  83,000.  It 
was  in  this  city  that  Louis  Xapoleon  (now  Napoleon 
TIT.),  made  a  bold  attempt  to  obtain  the  throne  of 
France.  The  prison  where  he  was  confined,  was  pointed 
out,  and  the  manner  of  his  escape  explained. 

Here  in  Strasburg  is  a  hirge  cathedral  containing  a 
remarkable  spire  which  has  long  been  the  admiration 
of  the  world.  This  spire  of  this  cathedral  is  the 
highest  in  the  world,  being  four  hundred  and  seventy 
-four  feet  above  the  pavement,  being  constructed  of  red 
granite,  beautifully  carved,  and  at  a  distance  has  the 
appearance  of  lace  work.  In  one  wing  of  the  cathedral, 
stands  the  astronomical  clock,  so  mucli  spoken  of 
by  travelers,  and  which  is  considered  by  many,  to  be 
the  greatest  piece  of  mechanism  in  the  world.  This 
clock  stands  on  the  floor,  and  is  sixty  feet  high,  the  to[) 


,  SWITZERLAND.  91 

of  which  is  reached  by  a  long  flight  of  winding  stairs. 
By  the  side  of  the  clock  is  a  tower  of  equal  hight, 
on  the  top  of  which  stands  a  mammoth  bronze  chicken 
cock,  with  its  head  and  tail  erect. 

At  twelve  o'clock  each  day,  a  number  of  figures  of 
men  and  women  comes  out  of  the  clock,  one  of  whom 
strikes  a  bell,  giving  the  hour,  after  which  a  life  size 
figure  appears  representing  Christ,  and  holding  before 
him  a  cross.  Then  comes  twelve  other  life  size  figures, 
representing  the  Apostles,  who  march  by  Christ.  Each 
one  stops  and  bows,  as  he  passes,  which  acknowledge- 
ment of  obedience  Christ  returns  by  the  waving  of  his 
right  hand.  At  the  same  time,  the  chicken  cock  flops 
his  wings,  and  crows  three  times,  after  which  the  great 
organ  plays  a  tune.  This  clock,  like  the  one  at  Lubeck 
shows  the  revolutions  of  the  heavenly  bodies,  day  of  the 
week,  month,  and  year,  changes  of  the  moon,  signs  of 
the  zodiac  etc.,  all  of  which  are  shown  on  large  dials. 
Large  crowds  of  people  collect  here  daily  to  see  the 
performance. 


A  TOUR    THROUGH     SW^ITZERLAND. 

After  leaving  Strasburg  we  went  ninety  miles  up  the 
Rhine,  the  valley  of  which  is  from  six  to  eight  miles  in 
width,  and  densely  populated.  Along  the  road  we 
passed  through  many  old  towms,  containing  ruined 
castles  and  fortifications,  the  relics  of  past  ages,  which 
gives  to  the  country  a  feudal  aspect.  On  this  road  is 
the  old  town  of  St.   Louis,  much  celebrated  for  its  fisli 


92  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

culture,  where  a  large  amount  of  fish  eggs  or  ovas 
are  collected  for  distribution  in  the  diiferent  lakes  and 
rivers  of  Europe. 

In  the  north  west  corner  of  Switzerland  is  located 
the  city  of  Bale,  which  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the 
Rhine,  whose  light  green  floods  run  by  with  great 
rapidity.  This  city  is  well  built  with  many  wide 
streets,  or  boulevards,  containing  shade  trees,  foun- 
tain pumps,  and  also  many  public  squares,  parks, 
and  flower  gardens.  There  are  a  number  of  large 
paper,  and  ribbon  factories  here,  and  from  this 
source  the  city  has  derived  much  of  its  wealth.  The 
signs  on  business  houses  mostly  have  two  inscriptions, 
one  in  French,  and  the  other  in  German,  as  both  of 
these  languages  are  spoken. 

Four  miles  above  Bale  is  to  be  seen  a  monument  on 
the  battle  field  of  St.  Jacob,  which  was  erected  to  the 
memory  of  sixteen  hundred  Swiss  soldiers,  who  fought 
for  ten  hours,  fifteen  thousand  French,  lead  by  Louis  XI. 
History  says  only  ten  of  the  Swiss  escaped  death,  all 
the  rest  being  left  dead  on  the  field,  along  with  twice 
this  number    of  foes  whom   they  had  slain. 

From  Bale,  the  railroad  follows  up  the  valley  of  the 
Rhine  for  some  miles,  then  it  leaves  it  and  takes  to  the 
mountain,  along  deep  gorges,  rocky  hill  sides,  through 
tunnels,  and  crossing  frightful  chasms,  by  iron  viaducts. 
The  scenery  on  the  road  becomes  more  rugged  and  wild, 
the  mountains  rocky,  and  destitute  of  vegetation.  At 
last,  we  saw  in  the  distance  the  range  of  Barnese  Alps 
with   their  high  peaks  covered   with  snow,  at  the  sight 


SWITZERLAND.  93 

*)f  which,  some  of  our  traveling  companions  became 
wild  with  enthusiasm,  manifesting  as  much  joy  as 
Pizaro  did,  when  he  first  discovered  the  snowy  cliflfs  of 
the  Andes.  At  Lake  Sampach,  which  is  a  small  Swiss 
lake,  we  saw  the  monument  erected  on  the  battle-field 
where  Leopold,  Prince  of  Austria,  and  many  of  his 
nobles  were  slain,  and  thereby  the  independence  of 
Switzerland  established.  At  the  end  of  the  railroad,  we 
came  to  the  city  of  Lucern,  and  thus  closed  our  first 
days  travel  among  the  Alps. 

LAKE    LUCERISr  AND  SURROUNDINGS. 

Lake  Lucern  is  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  of  all 
the  lakes  of  Switzerland,  and  along  its  shores  are 
many  old  towns,  which  have  figured  extensively  in  the 
early  history  of  the  country.  This  lake  is  twenty-seven 
miles  long,  averaging  two  inbreadth,  with  wings  at  each 
side,  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  and  has  three  lines  of  small 
steamboats,  running  to  different  towns  on  its  shore.  On 
both  sides  of  the  lake  the  mountains  rise  many  thousand 
feet  above  its  w^aters,  with  here  and  there  a  high  peak 
<;overed  with  perpetual  snow.  In  some  places,  pine 
trees,  and  grass  grow  high  up  on  the  mountain,  and  its 
slopes  are  dotted  over  with  houses  of  peasants  who  obtain 
their  living  mostly  by  selling  butter  and  cheese  made  of 
goats  milk.  From  Baunnen  to  Fluelen  a  distance  of 
twelve  miles,  there  is  a  carriage  road  along  the  lake, 
which  is  cut  out  of  the  roeky  0115",  through  many 
tunnels,  and  across  viaducts. 

M 


94  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

Two  miles  ribove  the  head  of  the  hike,  we  came  to 
the  old  town  of  Altorf  which  has  became  famous  on  ac- 
count of  its  connection  with  William  Tell,  and  on  that 
account  it  is  visited  by  almost  every  person,  traveling 
through  the  Alps.  This  town  is  situated  in  a*  narrow 
valley,  with  high  mountains  rising  almost  perpen- 
dicularly on  either  side,  and  their  tops  covered  with 
perpetual  snow.  Trees  are  left  standing  at  the  base 
of  the  mountain,  to  protect  the  town  from  avalanches 
and  falling  rocks,  which  have  been  so  destructive  to 
many  of  the  Swiss   towns. 

One  and  a  half  miles  above  the  town,  on  the  bank 
of  a  creek  is  a  small  chapel,  which  was  built  to  m  ark 
the  spot  where  Tell  lived  and  died. 

Many  people  in  the  United  States  regard  the  history 
of  Tell  as  fictitious,  and  founded  on  tradition,  which  has 
been  made  famous  by  the  writers  of  romance.  But 
there  is  no  foundation  for  this  opinion,  as  these  events 
occurred  at  the  commencement  of  the  Swiss  revolution, 
which  terminated  in  the  independence  of  the  country. 
All  these  events  entered  into  history  at  the  time,  and 
the  place  where  they  occurred,  were  marked,  and 
held  sacred  by  the  people  to  this  day.  On  a  public 
square  at  Altorf,  stands  the  colossal  statue  of  Tell, 
occupying  the  spot  where  he  stood  Avhen  he  shot  the 
apple  off  his  son's  head.  This  statue  represents  Tell, 
with  one  hand  resting  on  his  bow,  while  the  other  hand 
holds  aloft  an  arrow,  with  this  inscription :  "  This 
arrow  was  intended  for  thee,  tyrant  Gesler,  if  I  had 
killed    my    son."     One    hundred    and   seventeen    yards 


LAKE     LUCERNE    A  X  D    S  U  It  R  O  U  X  D  I  N  G  S  .       95 

from  this  statue,  is  a  monument  sixty  feet  bigb,  built 
on  the  place  where  the  boy  stood  when  the  arrow  split 
the  apple  on  bis  bead,  and  close  by  it  is  a  fountain, 
occupying  the  spot  where  grew  the  linden  tree  on  which 
Gesler's  hat  was  placed,  for  all  men  to  do  obeisance  to 
it  as  they  passed. 

Seven  miles  down  the  lake  from  Fluelen,  is  to  be  seen 
TelPs  Chapel,  built  on  a  rock  at  the  water's  edge,  and 
reached  from  the  land  side,  b}^  steps  cut  in  the  rocky 
cliff  above.  This  is  the  place  where  Tell  escaped  from 
his  captors,  as  he  was  being  conveyed  a  prisoner  to 
Kussnacht.  History  says  the  night  was  dark  and 
stormy,  and  tiie  vessel  was  in  danger  of  being  dashed  to 
pieces  against  the  rocks,  when  all  on  board  Avould  have 
perished.  They  having  great  faith  in  TelTs  skill  to 
jnanage  the  vassel,  untied  him,  when  he  ran  the  boat 
ashore,  killed  the  tyrant  Gesler,  jumped  off  on  this  rock 
and  thus  made  his  escape.  This  chapel  was  built  thirty 
years  after  Tell's  death,  and  dedicated  in  the  presence 
of  one  hundred  and  twenty  men,  who  knew  him  well, 
and  whose  names  now  appear  on  its  walls. 

Two  miles  below  Tell's  chapel,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  lake,  was  pointed  out  a  table  rock,  seven  hundred 
feet  above  the  water.  This  is  said  to  be  the  place 
where  the  patriots  met  on  the  night  of  the  7th,  of 
November,  1;}07,  and  bound  themselves  by  an  oath  to 
fi'ee  their  country.  Tell,  it  is  said,  was  on  his  way  to 
attend  this  meeting,  when  he  was  taken  prisoner  at 
Altorf. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  Lake,  is  the  Rigi,  a  mountain 


96  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

of  great  celebrity,  on  account  of  its  isolated   position, 
being   partly  surroundecl    by  lakes,  which   makes  it  a 
natural    observatory.     The   view    of  sunrise,  from  the 
summit  of  this  mountain,  is  said  to  be  very  beautiful,  and 
crowds  of  people  ascend  it  the   day  before,  staying   all 
night,  in  order  to  enjoy  this  view.     But  a  large  majority 
of  whom  meet  with  disapointment,  as  the  mountain  is 
often  enveloped  in  clouds.     From  Lucerne,  the  Rigi  is  in 
plain  view,  and  looks  as  though  it  could  be  reached  in  an 
hour's  walk,  but  to  reach  its  summit  requires  fifteen  miles 
travel.     Seven  miles  by  steamboat,  and  eight  miles  on 
foot.     Women  sometimes  ride  a  mule,  up  the  mountain, 
while  others  arc  carried  by  two  men,  in  a  carrying  chair. 
A  large  number  of  men   are   engaged   in  this  business, 
and  will  carry  a  person   eight  miles  up  the  mountain, 
for  fifteen  francs.     On  the  top  of  the  Rigi,  there  are  two 
hotels  to    accommodate  visitors,   and  everything  used 
in  them,  as  well  as  the  materials  for  their  construction, 
were  carried  upon  the  backs  of  mountaineer's.     At  Kuss- 
nacht,  which  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Rigi,  is  still  to  be  seen 
the  ruin  of  Gesler's  Castle,  and  here  was  the  head  quar- 
ters of  the  Austrian  army,  when  they  held  Switzerland. 
On  the  morning  of  the  ninth  of  August,   I  accompa- 
nied   a   party    of  seventeen  Americans,  in   making  an 
ascent  of  the  Rigi.     The  day  was  fine,  without  a  cloud 
in  the  horizon,  and  the   view  from  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  was  grand  beyond  discription.     To  the  south, 
and  surrounding  two  sides  of  the  base  of  the  mountain 
.  lay  the  clear  blue  waters  of  lake  Lucerne,  at  the  north, 
lies  lake  Zug,  while  in  the  distance,  could  be   seen  the 


CITY    OF    LUCERNE.  97 

snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Barnes  Oberlands.  North- 
east of  us  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley,  is  the  Ross- 
berg,  from  whose  slope  came  the  great  land  slide  of 
1806.  This  land  slide  was  the  largest,  and  most  fatal, 
of  any  known  among  the  Alps.  The  ground  for  over 
two  miles  in  length  gave  way,  filling  up  the  valley  to  a 
great  depth,  with  dirt  and  rocks,  distroying  three 
villages,  and  killing  four  hundred  and  fifty-five  persons. 


CITY  OF  LUCERNE. 

The  city  of  Lucerne  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  lake 
Lucerne,  and  is  divided  by  the  river  Reuss,  which  runs 
from  the  lake  with  great  rapidity,  and  over  which  are 
many  bridges.  The  location  of  Lucerne  is  of  matchless 
beauty,  with  the  deep  blue  waters  of  the  lake  in  front, 
Mt.  Pilatus  on  the  right,  and  Mt.  Rigi  on  the  left,  while 
far  in  the  distance  are  seen  the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the 
Engelberg  mountains.  The  end  of  the  lake,  here,  is 
circular.  The  city  is  built  on  its  banks,  where  the 
land  rises  only  a  few  feet  above  the  water,  and  is  partly 
surrounded  by  an  old  wall  with  watch  towers,  now  in  a 
state  of  ruin.  The  city  contains  many  fine  hotels,  with 
comforts  and  conveniences,  seldom  met  in  Europe,  and 
also  two  old  churches  of  great  antiquity.  Lucerne 
contains  a  population  of  13,000,  and  is  full  of  strangers 
during  the  summer  months,  as  it  is  a  great  place  of 
resort,  for  persons  traveling  among  the  Alps.  During 
my  stay  in  the  city,  Queen  Victoria,  and  suit  were  here, 
and  occupied  all  of  a  large  hotel  on  the  hill. 


98  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

While  here  in  Lucerne,  I  had  my  hair  cut  by  a  bar- 
ber, and  I  gave  him  a  franc,  demanding  my  change 
back,  but  lie  refused  to  give  me  any.  I  pointed  to  his 
advertisement  which  read  thus:  "Cutting  hair,  half 
franc."  He  said  that  sign  was  for  Swiss.  "Americans 
much  money,  one  franc."  I  tried  to  convince  him  that 
it  required  no  more  time  to  cut  an  American's  hair,  than 
that  of  a  Swiss,  but  this  argument  had  no  effect. 


BRUNING  PASS. 

At  the  ringing  of  the  steamer's  bell,  crowds  of  people 
left  their  hotels  in  Lucerne,  for  a  passage  up  the  lake. 
Women  with  jocky  hats,  short  dresses,  and  carrying  in 
their  hand,  a  long  Alpine  staff,  were  seen  hurrying  to 
and  fro,  full  of  life,  animated  with  a  prospect  of  a  tramp 
among  the  glaciers. 

Thirteen  miles  up  the  bike,  we  came  to  the  village  of 
Alpnach,  a  place  of  great  antiquity,  and  surrounded  by 
high  mouniains.  Here  are  the  remains  of  an  old  timber 
slide,  used  about  fifty  years  ago,  to  convey  timber  from 
the  mountains,  into  the  lake.  This  slide  was  constructed 
of  timbers,  eight  miles  long,  six  feet  wide,  and  four  feet 
high,  kept  wet  by  a  rill  to  diminish  friction.  Trees  one 
hundred  feet  long,  and  four  feet  in  diameter,  would  pass 
through  this  slide  into  the  lake  below,  and  from  there, 
they  were  floated  down  the  river  Reuss,  into  the  Rhine, 
where  they  were  formed  into  rafts,  to  l)e  sold  in  Holland. 

At  Alpnach,  we  left  the  steamer,  for  a  diligence,  and 
commenced  our  tour  through  the  Bruning^  Pass,  which 


BRCNINGPASS.  99 

is  forty  miles  in  leiigtli,  passing  over  a  high  monntain 
and  sometimes  by  the  side  of  frightful  precipices.  But 
the  road  is  good,  and  a  large  nnniber  of  people  pass  it 
daily.  Sometimes  eight  or  ten  coaches  would  follow 
each  other  in  close  succession,  beside  footmen  without 
number. 

On  this  road,  are  a  number  of  small  bikes,  sur- 
rounded with  rich  meadows,  while  above  them  rise 
rocky  crags,  many  thousand  feet  in  hight.  One  of 
these  crags  was  pointed  out  to  us,  as  the  place  where 
an  eagle  many  years  ago,  carried  a  child  to  its  nest, 
high  up  on  the  cliif  This  thrilling  story  runs  thus : 
A  woman  while  working  in  the  meadow,  left  her  infant 
a  few  weeks  old,  sleeping  in  a  different  part  of  the 
field,  and  on  hearing  it  cry,  looked  up,  and  with  horror, 
saw  an  eagle  carrying  it  off.  The  alarm  being  given 
the  villagers  collected  in  large  numbers,  and  means  were 
provided  for  the  child's  rescue.  A  man  was  let  down 
by  a  rope,  from  the  top  of  the  cliff,  to  the  eagles  nest, 
and  thus  rescued  the  child,  restoring  it  again  to  its 
mother's  arms,  but  badly  wounded,  from  the  claws  of 
the  eagle.  As  we  passed  these  crags,  we  saw  a  number 
of  eagles  flying  around  them,  and  here  they  continue  to 
build  their  nest,  as  in  former  times. 

We  stopped  at  Sarnen,  which  is  an  old  Swiss  town, 
at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  bearing  the  same  name  here,  and 
visited  an  old  church  containing  many  relics  of  the 
Swiss  revolution.  In  a  glass  case  by  the  altar,  is  to  be 
seen  the  remains  of  St.  Nicholas,  who  died  here  in  the 
year  1487.     Within  his  ribs,  where  his  heart   once  was 


100  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

is  a  jeweled  cross,  with  many  other  mementoes  donated 
by  the  Pope  of  Rome,  to  the  departed  saint. 

While  going  up  the  mountain,  women  and  children 
followed  us,  in  order  to  sell  milk,  fruit,  and  wooden 
trinkets.  A  troup  of  Swiss  maidens,  dressed  i'n  their 
peculiar  costume,  consisting  of  a  short  dress,  white 
jacket,  and  a  flat  hat,  accompanied  us  some  ways  up  the 
mountain,  walking  by  the  side  of  the  coaches,  and 
singing  mountain  airs,  the  melody  of  which,  could  not 
be  surpassed  by  the  Hutchinson  family. 

After  a  ride  of  twelve  hours,  we  came  to  the  town  of 
Brienz,  situated  at  the  head  of  lake  Brienz,  which  is  said 
to  be  in  the  geographical  center  of  Switzerland.  Here 
we  ai^ain  went  aboard  of  a  steamer,  on  the  lake,  for 
Giessback  falls,  and  saw  its  three  cascades,  the  highest 
of  which  is  over  six  hundred  feet,  of  a  perpendicular 
fall.  Twelve  miles  sail  down  the  lake,  brought  us  to 
Interlaken,  a  nice  shady  village,  situated  between  lake 
Brienz,  and  lake  Thun,  and  containing  a  few  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  twenty-five  hotels.  This  is  a  place  of 
great  attraction,  and  here  tourists  frequently  stay  a  few 
weeks.  Notwithstanding  its  large  number  of  fine  hotels, 
people  are  frequently  obliged  to  seek  lodging  in  the 
neighboring  villages.  Here  is  a  beautiful  park  with  a 
kursaal,  containing  reading  rooms,  and  dancing  halls, 
where  the  band  plays  morning  and  evening,  making  it 
the  gayest  place  in  Switzerland.  A  tax  is  levied  on  all 
strangers  visiting  Interlaken,  for  the  support  of  this 
kursaal,  as  well  as  the  support  of  the  poor  of  the  canton, 
a  species  of  thieving  that  some  people  take  exception  to. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 


A  TOUR  AMOXG  THE  GLACIERS. 

In  the  United  States,  we  have  the  White,  Rocky,  and 
Alleghany  mountains,  big  rivers  and  lakes,  as  well  as 
the  great  falls  of  Niagara,  but  no  where  on  the  Western 
Continent,  can  be  found  scenery  to  equal  the  mighty 
Alps.  A  person  may  read  various  accounts  of  these 
mountains,  without  forming  a  correct  idea  of  their 
magnitude  and  grandeur,  which  can  only  be  realized  by 
seeing  them. 

Leaving  our  baggage  atluterlaken,  we  took  a  carriage 
for  Lauterbrunen,  which  is  a  small  village  ten  miles 
south,  and  situated  in  a  deep  gorge  of  the  mountain, 
where  the  sun  does  not  shine  until  eleven  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  At  this  place  the  carriage  road  ends,  and  the 
tourist  is  obliged  to  continue  his  way  on  foot,  or  on 
horseback.  Above  the  village  is  the  Straubback  falls, 
nine  hundred  feet  high,  being  the  highest  waterfall  in 
Europe,  but  the  stream  is  small,  and  the  water  is  reduced 
to  spray,  before  it  reaches  the  bottom. 


102  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

South  of  the  vilhige  of  Lauterbriiuen,   is   the   Jung- 
frau,  nearly  three  miles  high,  and  covered  with  perpet- 
ual snow.     I  had  seen  this  mountain  at  diiferent  times 
while  traveling  in  Switzerland,  sometimes  while  fifty  or 
sixty  miles  away,  and  find  that  its  grandeur  increases 
by  a  closer  view.       On  one  side  of  the  Jungfrau  is  the 
Wetterhorn,  running  up  to  a  sharp  peak,  and  of  chalky 
whiteness;     while    on  the    other   side    is   the    Monch, 
which  is  called  the  giantess  of  the  Oberlands,  and  is  of 
equal  Avhiteness.     From  a  mountain  opposite  the  Jung- 
frau, a  fine  view  of  it  can  be  obtained,  showing  many 
square  miles   of  snow   and  ice,  with  here   and  there  a 
cliff  of  rocks,  looking  black  and  dreary,  in  contrast  with 
the   virgin    whitness  of  the    snow    around    them.     We 
could  see  large  cracks  in  the  ice,  some  of  which  were 
ten  or  twenty  feet  wide,  and  one  hundred  or  more  deep, 
between  which  are  crags  of  ice,  like  pyramids  standing 
up  in  wild  masses.     High  up  on  the  mountain,  we  saw^ 
eight  men  walking  in   Indian  hie,  one   after  the   other, 
the  guide  going  before,  and  slowly  feeling  his  way  with 
an  Alpine  staff.     A  rope   was  tied   around  the  waist  of 
each,  and  all  fastened  together,   so  if  one   should  fall 
into  a  crevice  in  the  ice,  the  others  would  support  him. 
Frequently  people  are  lost  on  this  mountain,  as  large 
cracks  are  formed  in  the  ice  during  the  summer,  which 
are  covered  over  by  snow  in  winter,  and  cannot  be  seen 
by  the  tourist.     Baggage  is  left  unclaimed  at  hotels  in 
this  vicinity,  the  owners  of  which  are  thought  to  have 
lost  their  lives  among  the  glaciers. 

While  here   we   saw  a  number  of  avalanches  from  the 


A    TOUR    A  M  O  N  G    THE    G  L  A  C  I  E  R  S  .  103 

mountain,  which  were  grand  beyond  description,  while 
the  noise  accompanying  them,  was  like  a  continuous 
discharge  of  artillery.  These  avalanches  occur  more  or 
less  every  warm  afternoon,  and  at  each  discharge  tons 
of  ice,  accompanied  by  torrents  of  water  are  thrown 
down  from  the  mountain.  High  up  on  the  glaciers 
where  the  ice  is  many  hundred  feet  in  depth,  a  large  cake 
of  it,  which  is  of  itself  a  mountain,  would  occasionally 
break  from  its  fastening,  and  commence  a  journey  down- 
wards, pitching  over  a  cliff  of  rock  two  thousand  feet 
or  more  in  hight,  where  it  is  broken  into  fragments, 
and  filling  the  air  with  mist.  From  here  it  continues 
its  way  down  the  mountain,  until  it  comes  to  another 
high  cliff  of  rocks,  where  it  bounds  over  with  a  loud 
roar  as  before;  onward  it  continues  in  its  wild  career, 
until  it  reaches  the  valley  miles  below.  Amid  the  still- 
ness of  those  Alpine  solitudes,  a  report  is  heard  which 
reaches  from  mountain  to  mountain,  succeeded  by 
another  report,  still  louder,  as  though  an  earthquake 
Iiad  taken  place,  or  the  mountain  itself  had  fallen  into 
the  valley.  We  may  imagine  the  roar  of  Niagara,  peals 
of  thunder,  discharging  of  artillery,  but  these  do  not 
equal  the  rumbling  noise,  or  prolonged  roar  of  a  Jungfrau 
avalanche. 

While  on  this  mountain  we  had  the  pleasure  of  w^it- 
nessing  a  scene  of  grandeur  and  sublimity  seldom  met 
with,  even  by  people  who  live  among  the  Alps.  Our 
attention  was  first  attracted  by  distant  thunder,  and  on 
looking  toward  lake  Brienz,  we  saw  a  black  cloud,  not 
high  in  the  zenith,  but  on  a  level  with  us.     This  cloud 


104  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

followed  up  the  valley  of  Lauterbrunen,  until  it  reached 
the  mountain  below  us,  and  here  it  presented  a  scene  of 
grandeur,  which  is  beyond  description.  Above  us,  was 
shining  the  bright  August  sun,  without  a  cloud  in  the 
sky,  while  below  us,  and  almost  under  our  feet,  was  a 
black  thick  cloud,  from  which  came  forth  vivid  lightning, 
heavy  peals  of  thunder,  and  torrents  of  rain,  drenching 
the  valley  below  us,  with  floods  of  water. 


A  DANCE  ON  THE  MOUNTAIN. 

South  of  the  village  of  Lauterbrunen,  lies  the  Wen- 
gern  Alps,  which  is  separated  from  the  Jungfrau,  by  a 
deep  valley.  On  this  mountain  is  a  hotel,  and  high 
above  it,  is  a  rocky  peak,  where  tourists  frequently  go 
to  see  the  avalanches  from  the  Jungfrau.  On  reaching 
this  summit,  we  found  there  collected,  a  party  of  about 
twenty  Americans  of  both  sexes,  some  of  whom  were 
quite  enthusiastic  over  the  fine  scenery,  which  was 
rendered  more  impressive  by  bottles  of  brandy,  which 
they  carried  in  their  coat  pockets.  Among  this  party 
was  Major  General  Snips  of  the  late  Southern  Confedera- 
tion, who  was  accompanied  by  a  charming  looking  French 
lady,  whom  he  called  his  wife,  and  toward  whom  he  was 
very  jealous  of  other  men's  attentions.  The  General  is 
a  man  of  remarkable  personal  appearance,  being  nearly 
seven  feet  high,  slim  and  gaunt,  with  long  ape-like  arms 
which  are  all  the  while  swinging  back  and  forth,  as 
though  they  were  hung  on  hinges.  No  one  of  the  party 
appeared  to   enjoy  themselves  so  well,   as  the  General. 


A    DANCE    ON     THE      MOUNTAIN.  105 

He  first  made  a  speech,  then  sang  a  number  of  songs, 
among  which  were  Old  Uncle  Ned,  and  Captain  Jinks 
of  the  Horse  Marines,  then  assisted  by  some  of  his  com- 
panions, he  closed  the  exercises  with  an  old  fashioned 
dance. 

This  dance  was  a  very  remarkable  one,  being  on  a 
smoth  rock,  many  thousand  feet  above  the  valley,  with 
no  music  but  an  accordeon  in  the  hands  of  a  tall  lady 
in  black,  who  pulled  away  on  the  instrument  as  though 
she  was  trying  to  tare  it  in  twain.  The  General  danced 
with  all  his  might,  twisting  his  long  slim  body  into 
every  possible  position,  while  his  feet  were  thrown 
around  in  all  directions.  Amid  the  roaring  of  the  ava- 
lanches, the  shrill  squeakes  of  the  accordeon,  the  loud 
laugh,  and  cheers  of  the  bystanders,  and  above  all  these 
were  heard  the  General's  feet,  rattling  on  the  rock,  first 
upon  the  heel  tap,  then  upon  the  toe,  with  his  long  bony 
arms  swinging  to  and  fro,  his  gaunt  form  wriggling, 
while  his  long  shaggy  locks  danced  a  jig.  On,  and  on, 
went  the  dance,  louder,  and  louder,  were  the  shouts  of 
the  bystanders,  and  louder,  and  more  offensive  were  the 
squeakes  of  the  accordeon.  But  while  in  the  hight  of 
their  merriment,  a  circumstance  occured  which  broke 
up  the  dance,  and  destroyed  the  harmony  of  the  party. 
By  some  means  the  General  discovered  one  of  the  party, 
a  red  faced  Yankee,  making  love  to  his  wife.  This  he 
considered  a  Northern  invasion  of  Southern  rights, 
which  honor  bound  him  to  correct,  and  he  pitched  into 
the  Yankee,  with  true  southern  chivalry.  The  assault 
was   vigorously  contested,    and  blood    ran    freely,  but 


106  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

through    the    interference    of  others,    hostility    ceased, 
peace  was  made,  and  the  combatants,  drank  friends. 

About  two  months  after  this  occurrence,  I  met  the 
General  in  Italy,  when  he  informed  me  that  his  wife 
had  run  oif  with  this  same  red  fiiced  Yankee,'  taking 
with  her  all  his  money  and  jewelry. 


GEINDELWOLD. 

Twelve  miles  south-east  of  Interlaken,  in  a  deep 
valley,  surrounded  by  snow-capped  peaks,  is  located  the 
village  of  Grindel wold.  This  place  has  been  immortal- 
ized by  the  poems  of  Byron,  and  Shelley,  on  account  of 
its  wild  scenery,  and  peculiar  climate.  Close  by  the  vil- 
lage are  two  large  glaciers,  extending  down  into  the  val- 
ley, many  thousand  feet  below  the  snow  line,  and  from 
which  comes  forth  large  streams  of  water,  equal  to  large 
creeks,  with  their  turbid  waters,  roaring  and  foaming, 
as  it  pitches  over  rocks,  on  the  way  to  the  lake.  These 
streams  are  formed  by  the  melting  of  snow  on  the 
mountains,  and  run  all  summer  without  exhausing  their 
source.  At  the  foot  of  one  of  these  glaciers  is  a  cave 
cut  into  the  ice,  where  men  were  at  work,  taking  it  out 
for  shipment  to  Paris,  and  other  cities  of  Europe. 
Farther  up  the  mountain  the  ice  rises  like  a  perpen- 
dicular wall  of  nearly  one  hundred  feet  in  hight.  Here 
an  enterprising  Swiss  has  built  a  shanty  on  a  rock,  raised 
a  flag,  and  cut  a  tunnel  in  the  ice  two  hundred  feet  deep, 
lighted  by  lamps,  and  charges  admittance  fees.  This 
tunnel    has   a    remarkable  appearance;    the  floor,  roof. 


G^RIX  DEL  WOLD.  107 

and  sides,  being  of  pure  crystal  ice,  shining  in  the  himp 
light,  like  walls  of  diamonds,  reminding  one  of  the  ice 
palace,  built  by  Queen  Catherine  of  Russia. 

The  glaciers  connected  with  Grindelwold,  and  Juni:;- 
frau,  are  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  ones  of  the  Alps, 
and  the  most  dangerous  to  explore.  I  have  conversed 
with  diiferent  guides,  who  make  it  their  business  to 
conduct  peojDle  across  these  glaciers.  They  say  the 
changes  in  them  are  but  slight;  crags  of  ice  have  stood 
twenty  or  thirty  years  Avithout  any  perceptible  change, 
except  increasing  in  winter,  and  diminishing  in  summer. 
The  depth  of  the  ice  on  these  large  glaciers,  is  not 
known,  but  supposed  in  places  to  be,  at  least,  fifteen 
hundred  feet.  The  line  where  vegetation  ceases,  and 
snow  is  perpetual,  differs  very  much  on  these  mountains, 
but  it  is  said  nine  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea  is  the  average.  In  some  places  forests  of  pine,  or  fir, 
are  seen  at  a  great  hight,  while  at  other  places  of  equal 
hight,  are  rocky  cliffs,  svithout  vegetation  of  any  kind. 

After  spending  a  few  days  among  the  Bernese  Ober- 
lands,  climbing  up  rocky  cliffs,  and  by  the  side  of 
frightful  precipices,  over  crags  of  ice,  and  mountains  of 
snow,  I  felt  willing  to  return  to  a  more  genial  climate, 
although  highly  delighted  with  my  tour  among  the 
glaciers. 

On  our  way  to  Berne,  we  traveled  on  lake  Thui], 
which  is  a  small  lake  of  ten  miles  in  length,  by  two  in 
breadth,  and  said  to  be  eighteen  hundred  feet  deep. 
While  steaming  down  this  lake,  our  attention  was 
called  to  the  surrounding  scenery,  which  represents  two 


108  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

seasons  of  the  year.  On  the  lowlands  the  fields  were 
green,  with  waiving  grain,  and  blooming  flowers,  while 
beyond  these  are  mountains  covered  with  perpetual 
snow,  showing  both  summer  and  winter,  at  one  view. 


BEENESE  OBERLANDS. 

The  country  in  this  part  of  the  Alps,  is  very  remark- 
able, but  it  would  be  impossible  to  give  the  reader  a 
con*ect  idea  of  it.  Much  of  the  country  is  wild, 
uninhabited,  where  the  bear  and  chamois,  roam  undis- 
turbed by  human  habitation;  but  where  it  is  possible 
for  a  human  being  to  live,  the  hardy  mountaineers 
are  found.  The  people  here  live  in  wooden  houses  of 
singular  construction,  lacking  both  beauty  and  conven- 
ience. Horses,  plows  or  wagons,  are  seldom  seen 
among  the  peasantry,  the  land  being  prepared  for  a  crop 
by  digging  it  with  a  hoe.  Cattle,  sheep,  and  goats,  are 
herded  oif  in  the  mountains,  during  the  summer,  and 
are  seldom  met  with,  in  the  inhabited  part  of  the  country. 
Wheat,  oats,  barley,  and  llax  are  raised,  but  are  in  small 
fields,  which  seldom  exceed  an  half  acre.  In  some  places 
on  the  southern  slope  of  the  mountain,  the  land  is 
terraced  with  stone  walls,  and  vineyards,  and  fruit  trees 
are  seen,  far  above  the  valley.  Manure  for  enriching 
the  land,  is  carried  up  in  baskets  placed  on  women's 
heads,  and  the  products  of  the  land  are  carried  down 
in  the  same  way.  Most  of  the  farm  work,  is  done 
by  women,  who  are  of  a  fine  physical  organization, 
iiianv  of  whom  cut  ofi"  their  hair  vearlv  and  sell  it,  as 


BERXE.  lOQ 

it  is  worth  more  in  market,  tliaii  women's  liuir  of  other 
countries.  A  young  hidy  can  sell  her  hair  for  money 
enouo^h  to  buy  her  a  weddinij;  dress. 

Travelers  through  the  country  are  much  annoyed, 
with  women  and  children  trying  to  sell  them  fruit, 
wooden  trinkets,  etc.  Sometimes  children  will  follow  a 
carriage  for  miles  up  the  mountain,  with  blocks  of 
wood,  to  scotch  the  wheels;  the  girls  singing  songs, 
and  the  boys  turning  summersaults.  The  people  are 
130or,  and  their  children  are  beggars;  the  only  wealth 
of  the  country  belongs  to  hotel  keepers. 

In  the  deep  gorge  of  the  mountain,  a  man  is  sometimes 
found  blowing  an  alpine  horn,  the  sound  re-echoing 
miles  away,  and  coming  back  again,  resembles  a  band 
of  music.  This  alpine  horn,  w^hich  is  so  much  celebrated 
among  the  Swiss,  is  a  large  w^ooden  tube,  six  or  eight 
feet  in  length,  and  when  the  atmosphere  is  right,  its 
sound  might  be  mistaken  for  Gabriel's  trumpet. 


BERNE. 

The  capital  of  Switzerland,  has  a  population  of  30,000, 
and  is  very  singularly  situated,  being  neither  on  a  hill, 
nor  in  a  valley,  but  on  a  table  land,  between  the  two. 
The  river  Aar,  runs  on  three  sides  of  it,  and  is  crossed 
by  two  high  stone  bridges.  The  city  is  well  built,  with 
many  wide  streets,  and  high  houses,  principally  con- 
structed of  white  stone.  Many  of  the  business  streets, 
have  arcades  on  both  sides  of  them,  which  are  supported 
by  massive  columns,  causing  the  sidewalk  to  pass  under 


110  BEYOND      THE      ATLAXTIC. 

the  buildings.  The  streets  and  public  squares,  are  well 
supplied  with  fountains,  many  of  which  are  ornamented 
with  colossal  bronze  figures  of  bears,  the  symbol  of  the 
canton  of  Berne. 

The  capitol  is  a  large  stone  edifice,  without  either 
dome  or  cupola,  but  shows  much  skill  and  good  taste 
in  its  construction.  The  halls  of  senate  and  representa- 
tives, are  much  like  those  at  Washington,  but  not  so 
large  and  expensively  furnished. 

There  are  many  curious  things  in  Berne,  among  which 
is  the  old  clock  tower,  standing  in  the  middle  of  one  of 
the  principal  streets.  When  this  clock  strikes,  a 
colossal  bronze  chicken  cock  flaps  its  wdngs,  and  crows 
three  times.  Then  a  procession  of  bears  come  out  of 
the  clock,  and  marches  around  the  crowned  figures  of 
Gog  and  Magog  who  gap,  and  lower  their  scej^ters  at 
each  stroke  of  the  bell. 

At  the  east  end  of  the  city,  there  is  a  bear  pit,  where 
a  number  of  these  animals  are  kept,  for  the  amusement 
of  the  public. 

FRO]M  BERXE  TO  GEIVTEVA. 

The  country  on  the  route  between  Berne  and  Lausanne, 
a  distance  of  eighty-five  miles,  is  very  hilly,  and  in  some 
places,  mountainous,  with  here  antl  there  a  fertile  valley. 
The  land  is  very  stony,  with  a  yellow  clay  soil,  but  is 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  producing  fine  cro^js 
of  various  kinds  of  grain.  The  plowing  and  teaming 
are  mostly  done   with  cows,  which  are  said  to  be  more 


GEXEVA.  Ill 

serviceable  than  steers,  besides  supplying  the  family 
with  milk. 

Twenty-two  miles  from  Berne,  we  came  to  the  old 
city  of  Freiburg,  a  place  famous  in  history,  and  known 
during  the  Protestant  wars,  as  the  stronghold  of  Cathol- 
icism. This  city  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  stretching 
up  hill  and  down,  across  deep  gorges,  and  rocky  knolls, 
and  ornamented  with  many  watch  towers,  which  make 
the  distant  view  of  the  city  imposing,  and  highly 
picturesque.  Here  is  a  great  suspension  bridge,  over 
the  river  Saarine,  which  for  hight,  and  length  of  curve, 
exceeds  all  other  bridges  in  Europe, 

The  next  place  of  interest  on  the  road  is  Lausanne,  a 
city  of  some  22,000  inhabitants,  and  located  on  the 
north  bank  of  lake  Geneva.  This  city  is  said  to  be  the 
dividing  line  between  the  French  and  German  language. 
The  upper  part  of  the  city  speaking  French,  while  the 
lower  part  speaks  German. 

At  Lausanne,  we  went  aboard  of  a  steamer  for  Geneva, 
thirtv-five  miles  distant. 


GENEVA. 

This  old  and  much  celebrated  city  of  the  Alps,  is 
situated  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Geneva,  and  on  both  sides 
of  the  river  Rhone,  where  its  blue  waters  rush  by 
with  great  rapidity.  From  the  lake,  the  city  has  a 
very  imposing  appearance,  looking  both  large  and  grand, 
and  a  person  can  scarcely  credit  the  fact,  that  it  only 
contains    42,000    inhabitants.       Fronting   the   lake,    on 


112  BEYOXD      THE      ATLAXTIC. 


l)Oth  sides  of  the  river,  are  fine  buildings,  mostly  six 
stories  high,  constructed  of  white  stone,  and  of  a  modern 
stylo  of  architecture.  Back  of  these  buildings,  is  the 
old  town,  on  the  hillside,  with  one  street  rising  above 
another,  which  gives  the  city  a  romantic  appearance. 
The  river  divides  the  city  about  equally,  and  is  crossed 
by  many  beautiful  stone  bridges.  The  water  of  the 
lake,  is  of  remarkable  clearness,  and  in  the  strong 
current  of  the  river,  it  has  a  light  blue  color,  reminding 
one  of  water  discharged  from  an  indigo  pot.  There  are 
many  mills  and  factories,  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
where  the  machinery  is  moved  by  the  current;  also 
many  wash  houses,  where  women  are  seen  washing  at 
all  hours  of  the  day,  the  raj^id  current  of  the  river  being 
used  as  a  wash  tub. 

Geneva  has  many  factories,  where  watches,  jewelry, 
and  musical  instruments  are  made,  and  from  this  source 
the  city  has  acquired  most  of  her  wealth.  The  watches 
made  here,  are  mostly  of  a  good  quality,  and  a  high 
price.  The  low  priced,  and  worthless  watches,  marked 
Geneva,  are  principally  made  in  the  adjoining  towns. 

From  Geneva,  emanated  some  of  the  religious,  and 
political  doctrines,  which  now  govern  a  large  portion  of 
the  world.  Here  lived  and  died,  John  Calvin,  whose 
mighty  eloquence  shook  Catholicism  to  the  center,  and 
from  whose  teachings,  much  of  Europe  derived  their 
form  of  faith,  and  which  wei-e  transported  by  our  pilgi'im 
fathers,  to  the  shores  of  Xew  England.  Here  too  lived 
"Rousseau,  the  most  accomplished  of  all  infidel  writers, 
and  here  in  Geneva,  his  colossal  statue  adorns  the  public 


LAKE    GENEVA    AND    SURROUNDINGS.      113 

parks,  and  the  monument  to  his  memory  is  the  admi- 
ration of  all  beholders.  Bat  Calvin's  grave  is  neglected 
and  the  place  where  he  was  buried,  forgotten.  History 
says  that  he  was  buried  in  the  cemetery  of  Plain  Palais. 
While  walking  through  the  grounds  of  this  cemetery,  I 
inquired  for  Calvin's  grave,  but  no  one  could  tell  me 
where  it  was.  The  sexton  took  me  to  one  corner  of  the 
grounds,  and  pointed  out  a  small  square  stone,  rising 
about  four  inches  above  ground,  with  J.  C.  on  it,  saying 
here  he  was  buried  ;  but  this  spot  is  not  generally  con- 
ceded to  be  his  burial  place ;  tradition  points  to  another 
part  of  these  grounds. 

In  the  old  part  of  the  city,  stands  St.  Peter's  Church, 
which  still  contains  the  same  pulpit,  from  which  Calvin 
preached,  and  by  the  side  of  the  pulpit,  is  the  chair  of 
state,  where  he  sat  in  judgement,  over  the  temporal 
aifairs  of  Geneva.  While  sitting  in  this  chair,  Calvin 
ordered  Dr.  Servetus  to  be  burnt  at  a  stake,  outside  of 
the  city  walls,  because  he  would  not  subscribe  to  the 
orthodox  faith.  A  short  distance  from  St.  Peter's 
Church,  is  the  house  where  Calvin  lived  and  died. 

In  the  cemetery  of  Plain  Palais,  I  saw  the  tombs  of 
Sir  Humphrey  Davy,  Sir  Charles  Napier,  as  well  as 
many  English  authors  and  statesmen,  who  came  here 
for  the  restoration  of  health,  and  here  left  their  remains. 

LAKE  GENEVA  AXD  SURROUNDINGS. 

Lake  Geneva  is  the  largest  of  all  the  lakes  in  Switzer- 
land, being  fifty-five  miles  long,  and  six  miles  across  at 


114  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

the  widest  place.  This  lake  has  considerable  commerce ; 
besides  several  lines  of  steamboats,  there  are  sail  vessels 
running  to  different  j^orts  along  its  shores.  Unlike 
many  of  the- Swiss  lakes,  where  the  scenery  is  wild, 
with  rocky  cliffs  rising  high  above  the  water,  and 
covered  with  perpetual  snow,  here  the  land  rises 
gradually  from  the  waters  edge,  and  its  slopes  are 
covered  with  vineyards,  farm  and  pasture  lands,  among 
which  are  many  fine  old  towns  and  cities. 

Leaving  Geneva  in  the  morning,  aboard  of  a  fine 
little  steamer,  we  had  a  delightful  sail  up  the  lake, 
<j:ivinor  ns  a  g^ood  chance  to  view  the  beautiful  scenerv 
along  its  shores.  Above  Geneva,  on  high  land,  over- 
looking the  lake,  is  the  house  where  Lord  Byron  lived 
for  many  years,  and  Avhere  he  wrote  many  of  his  poems. 
Farther  up  the  lake,  is  the  chateau  of  Madam  de  Stael, 
and  also  the  one  formerly  occupied  by  different  members 
of  the  Bonaparte  family.  Near  the  head  of  the  lake  we 
came  to  the  Castle  of  Chillon,  which  has  been  immor- 
talized by  a  poem  of  Byron.  This  castle  is  built  on  an 
isolated  rock  out  in  the  lake,  and  is  connected  with  the 
shore  by  a  wooden  bridge.  History  says,  this  castle 
was  built  in  the  eleventh  century,  and  became  famous 
under  the  rule  of  Peter  of  Savoy,  who  used  it  as  a 
prison,  where  many  of  the  early  church  reformers  were 
confined.  The  castle  is  now  used  as  a  magazine,  for 
military  stores,  but  a  part  of  it  remains  the  same  as  it 
was  in  former  times.  Visitors  are  conducted  through 
it,  and  things  of  interest  pointed  out.  Byron  in  his 
Prisoner   of  Chillon,  describes    the    suffering    captive, 


ST.     MAURICE.  115 

chained  to  a  rock  for  six  long  years,  in  an  ill-ventilated 
basement,  which  was  only  lio^hted  by  the  reflection  of 
the  sun  from  the  waters  of  the  lake.  This  place  was 
pointed  out  to  us,  and  the  ring  in  the  stone  pillar, 
to  which  the  prisoner  was  chained,  is  still  hanging,  and 
the  stone  floor  around  it,  is  much  worn  by  his  pacing 
back  and  forth.  On  this  pillar,  Byron  cut  his  name, 
and  many  others  have  followed  his  example.  In  one 
part  of  the  castle,  is  a  beam,  black  with  age,  where  the 
condemned  were  hung,  and  in  another  place  there  is  a 
small  dark  stairway  of  three  steps;  the  victim  found  no 
fourth  step,  but  w^as  precipitated  eighty  feet  down  into 
the  lake  below. 


ST.  MAURICE. 

Twelve  miles  above  the  head  of  lake  Geneva,  and  in 
the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  is  located  the  old  city  of  St. 
Maurice.  This  city  is  wedged  in  between  the  river  and 
mountain,  with  houses  built  of  gray  stone,  all  clustered 
together,  having  narrow  streets,  and  dirty  alleys.  On 
the  west  side  of  it  is  a  cliff  of  rocks,  rising  almost  per- 
.pendicularly,  one  thousand  feet  in  hight,  and  houses 
are  built  against  it,  forming  one  side  of  their  walls.  On 
this  rock,  four  hundred  feet  above  the  street,  is  a  recess, 
cut  out  of  the  cliff,  and  in  it,  is  a  chapel,  which  was 
built  over  eight  hundred  years  ago,  and  close  by  it,  is  a 
small  house  in  the  rock,  where  a  monk  lives,  to  take 
care  of  the  chapel.  This  monk,  is  now  eighty-five  years 
old,  living  a  life   of  a  hermit,  and  has   not  been    down 


116  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

from  the  rock,  for  fifty-three  years.  When  he  dies, 
another  monk  who  is  elected  from  those  of  the  order  of 
St.  Maurice  takes  his  place.  The  chapel  is  reached  by 
a  long  flight  of  winding  steps,  cut  out  of  the  rock,  and 
guarded  by  an  iron  railing.  Morning  and  evening, 
people  are  seen  climbing  up  these  steps,  to  attend 
worship  in  the  chapel. 

Near  the  center  of  the  city  stands  the  old  abbey  of 
St.  Maurice,  built  according  to  history  in  the  year  365,  by 
order  of  Constantine  the  Great,  and  at  the  time  Christi- 
anity was  first  introduced  among  the  Alps.  On  this 
abbey,  are  fourteen  chime  bells,  which  can  be  heard  for 
miles  away,  and  the  sound  re-echoes  from  the  moun- 
tains, appearing  like  a  band  of  music.  From  the  sound 
of  these  bells,  originated  the  idea  of  bell  music,  which 
has  filled  the  world  with  Swiss  bell  ringers. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


GORGE  OF  TRIENT. 

In  the  valley  of  the  Rhone  a  few  miles  above  St. 
Maurice,  is  the  Gorge  of  Trient,  which  is  thought  by 
many  to  be  the  greatest  curiosity  in  Switzerland.  It 
consists  of  a  singular  rent  in  the  mountain,  through 
which  the  river  Trient  passes,  to  enter  the  valley  of  the 
Rhone.  After  paying  one  franc  each,  for  a  ticket,  we 
were  conducted  through  this  gorge,  and  beheld  the 
wonderful  works  of  nature.  Here  is  a  narrow  passage, 
with  rocks  rising  perpendicularly  on  either  side,  one 
thousand  feet  in  hight,  forming  a  wild  looking  chasm, 
where  the  sun  never  shines.  Scaffolding  of  plank,  nearly 
one  half  mile  in  length,  is  suspended  by  irons,  put  into 
the  rock  above,  so  that  people  can  pass  up  to  the  head 
of  the  gorge  with  perfect  safety.  Along  this  narrow 
foot-bridge,  we  followed  our  guide,  turning  this  way, 
then  that,  under  leaning  rocks,  crossing  and  re-crossing 
tlie  gorge,  while  thirty  feet  below  us,  runs  the  river, 
liigh   from  the  melting  of  snow,  roaring,  and  foaming, 


118  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

as  it  pitches  headlong  over  rocks.  At  the  head  of  this 
gorge,  is  a  cascade,  where  the  river  is  confined  to  a 
narrow  passage,  and  falls  fifty  feet.  Below  ns,  was  the 
foaming  water,  fresh  from  the  glaciers,  sending  up  cold 
spray,  and  on  either  side  of  us,  was  the  winding,  and 
zio-zao-  formation  of  the  over-hanging  rocks,  while  one 
thousand  feet  above  us,  was  a  narrow  rent  in  the  rocks, 
through  which  the  light  of  day  penetrated,  making  it 
the  wildest,  and  grandest  scenery  I  ever  beheld. 

Some  distance  below  the  Gorge  of  Trient,  are  the  falls 
of  Sallenche,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high.  Near 
these  falls,  is  an  opening  in  the  mountain,  caused  by  a 
landslide,  which  has  filled  up  the  valley  to  a  considera- 
ble hight.  This  is  said  to  have  occurred  over  one 
thousand  years  ago,  destroying  the  city  of  Epaunum, 
which  stood  in  the  valley  below.  A  similar  landslide, 
consisting  of  a  torrent  of  mud  and  rock,  descended 
from  this  mountain  in  1835,  cutting  a  passage  through 
the  forest,  snapping  ofi"  trees  as  twigs,  destroying 
houses  and  farms,  and  covering  the  valley  for  some 
ways.  The  country  along  this  part  of  the  valley, 
looks  desolate;  farms  are  filled  up  with  large  rocks, 
and  many  houses  are  abandoned. 


MARTIGNY. 

Is  an  old  Swiss  town,  situated  in  the  valley  of  the 
Rhone,  and  contains  but  few  attractions  for  strangers. 
On  the  side  of  the  mountain  overlooking  the  town,  is 
to  be  seen  the  ruin  of  an  old  castle,  which  was  built  in 


MARTIGNY.  121 

the  twelfth  century,  and  at  one  time  was  the  home  of 
Peter  of  Savoy,  from  which  that  tyrant  issued  laws 
to  i^overn  the  surrounding  country.  Here  in  Maj*- 
tigny,  is  a  convent  of  the  order  of  St.  Augustine,  where 
the  monks  of  St.  Bernard  have  their  head  quarters,  and 
from  which  the  guards  on  the  mountain  are  relieved  at 
intervals.  The  climate  here  is  subject  to  great  changes, 
one  day  warm,  and  the  next  cold  and  damp,  caused  by 
the  wind  blowing  off  the  snowy  mountains.  Many  of 
the  people  are  afflicted  with  the  goitre,  (an  enlargement 
of  the  neck).  I  have  noticed  this  disease  in  other  parts 
of  Switzerland,  but  no  place  so  much  as  here ;  nearly  one 
half  the  women  we  meet  have  this  complaint.  It  was 
at  Martigny,  that  Bonaparte  collected  his  grand  army 
for  crossing  the  Alps,  and  many  things  relating  to  that 
event,  are  related  by  old  citizens  of  the  place. 

Fourteen  miles  south  of  Martigny,  is  the  great  St. 
Bernard  Pass,  which  is  the  oldest,  and  most  noted  of  all 
the  passes  of  the  Alps.  Here  is  a  hospice  kept  by 
monks,  and  large  enough  to  accommodate  one  hundred 
and  fifty  persons.  Travelers  are  entertained  here  free  of 
charge,  but  are  always  expected  to  put  into  the  contri- 
bution box  money  equal  to  a  hotel  bill.  Near  the  hospice 
is  the  Morgue,  or  charnel  house,  where  are  deposited,  and 
in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  a  large  number  of 
dead  bodies,  being  the  remains  of  persons  who  lost 
their  lives  by  snow  storms  or  avalanches,  while  crossing 
the  mountains. 


122  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 


FORCLOZ  PASS. 

At  Martigny  we  left  our  baggage  in  exchange  for 
alpine  staffs,  and  commenced  a  tour  over  the'  moun- 
tains on  foot ;  taking  the  Tete  Noire  road  for  Cham- 
ouni,  a  distance  of  twenty-two  miles,  most  of  the 
way  over  stones  and  rocks,  along  a  crooked  mule 
path,  and  up  and  down  steep  mountains.  For  the  first 
few  miles  up  the  mountain,  the  ascent  was  easy,  being 
through  a  chestnut  forest,  among  which  were  apple  and 
pear  trees,  with  here  and  there  small  farms  and  dwell- 
ings occupied  by  mountaineers.  After  some  hours  of 
hard  walking,  we  reached  the  summit  at  Forcloz  Pass, 
where  there  is  a  hotel  and  custom  house,  it  being  on 
the  dividing  line  between  Switzerland  and  Savoy.  The 
whole  military  force  at  this  point  guarding  the  Swiss 
frontier,  consists  of  an  old  soldier,  with  a  rusty  fowling 
piece,  and  living  in  an  eight  by  ten  shanty  called  the 
custom  house.  This  officer  feels  the  importance  of  his 
position,  acting  both  in  a  civil  and  military  capacity. 
With  a  big  feather  in  his  cap,  and  a  gun  on  his 
shoulder,  he  stops  all  people  with  valises  demanding  one 
franc  for  examining  it.  Some  of  our  party  refused  to 
pay  him  fees,  when  he  told  them  to  go  on  as  he  could 
not  afford  to  examine  baggage  for  nothing. 

We  remained  all  night  at  the  Forcloz  Pass,  and 
experienced  some  of  the  peculiarities  of  mountain  atmos- 
phere. Although  it  was  August,  the  night  was  cold 
and  damp,  and  a  feather   bed,  used  in  this   country  for 


CHAMOUNI.  123 

covering,  was  not  out  of  place.  Next  morning  a  cloud 
had  settled  on  the  mountain,  which  was  black  and 
thick,  wetting  a  person  when  out  of  doors. 

The  road  from  Forcloz  Pass  to  Chamouni,  presents 
some  of  the  wildest  scenery  met  with  among  the  moun- 
tains. Sometimes  by  the  side  of  a  frightful  precipice 
guarded  only  by  a  pole,  then  under  leaning  rocks 
and  tunnels  cut  through  the  cliff,  then  by  the  side  of 
roaring  water  with  here  and  there  a  cascade.  Along 
this  road  are  many  shrines  containing  images  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  crucifixion  of  Christ  etc.,  also  crosses  and 
monuments  erected  to  the  memory  of  persons  who  lost 
their  lives  here  by  avalanches.  On  the  road  we  met 
large  companies  of  travelers,  some  on  foot,  others  on 
mules,  while  a  few  were  carried  by  two  men  in  a  chair, 
also  men  carrying  baggage  on  their  backs,  and  mules 
loaded  with  trunks. 


CHAMOUXI. 

The  village  of  Chamouni  is  located  at  the  foot  of  Mt. 
Blanc,  and  in  the  valley  of  Chamouni.  This  valley  is 
said  to  be  two  thousand  feet  higher  than  that  of  the 
Rhone,  and  surrounded  as  it  is  by  snow  and  ice,  causes 
vegetation  to  be  more  backward  than  in  other  valleys 
among  the  Alps.  One  mile  above  the  village  of  Cham- 
ouni is  the  Mer  de  Glass,  (which  means  sea  of  ice), 
extending  down  into  the  valley,  and  from  which  comes 
forth  a  large  stream  of  water,  roaring  and  foaming  as  it 
pitches   over  rocks   on  its   way  to  the  lake.     For  three 


124  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

hours  we  plodded  our  way  up  the  mountain  by  the  side 
of  the  Mer  de  Ghiss,  over  stones,  between  rocks,  and 
along  frightful  cliffs  wnth  steps  in  one  place  cut  into 
the  rocks,  and  guarded  only  by  a  wire.  Below-  us,  w^as 
this  sea  of  ice,  with  crags  of  it  standing  up  'in  wild 
masses  like  pyramids,  between  which  are  cracks  in  the 
ice  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide,  where  no  bottom  can  be 
seen.  Before  reaching  the  top,  some  of  our  party 
showed  symptoms  of  giving  out,  but  our  guide,  w^ho  was 
a  Swiss  maiden,  (to  whom  we  gave  the  name  of  Cham- 
ois, on  account  of  her  sprightliness  in  jumping  from 
rock  to  rock),  gave  encouragement  to  them,  by  saying: 
in  a  few  minutes  more  the  summit  would  be  reached.  At 
last  we  came  to  the  head  of  the  path,  where  we  left  the 
rocks,  and  took  to  the  ice,  crossing  the  Mer  de  Glass 
we  descended  the  mountain  on  the  opposite  side,  and 
arrived  safe  in  town,  but  much  fatigued  after  our  long 
tramp. 

While  w^e  were  at  Chamouni,  a  party  of  tourists 
ascended  Mt.  Blanc,  which  caused  much  excitement 
among  the  })eople.  The  ascent  of  this  mountain  is  of 
rare  occurrence,  and  if  successful,  it  is  regarded  a  great 
exploit,  as  many  undertaking  it,  lose  their  lives  in  the 
attempt.  Guides  charge  one  hundred  dollars  to  conduct 
a  party  up  the  mountain,  and  it  requires  three  days  to 
make  an  ascension,  which  can  only  be  accomplished  by 
those  accustomed  to  climbing  mountains,  or  that  have 
brought  themselves  into  ti-aining  for  that  purpose.  The 
tirst  night  is  spent  in  a  cave  of  rocks,  high  up  among 
the  ice  crags,  and  the  next  day  the  summit  is  reached 


CHAMOUNI.  125 

when  the  party  returns  to  the  cave  to  spend  the  second 
night. 

The  day  was  clear  and  bright,  and  crowds  of  people 
with  their  glasses  ascended  the  opposite  mountain  to 
watch  the  tourists.  At  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  they 
left  the  cave,  and  at  half  past  twelve,  they  reached  the 
summit  which  was  announced  at  the  village  by  firing 
six  salutes  with  a  cannon.  At  six  o'clock  in  the  evening 
again  the  firing  of  cannon  gave  notice  of  their  safe 
arrival  at  the  cave.  I  have  talked  with  different  persons 
who  have  ascended  Mt.  Blanc,  and  they  say  the  cold  is 
severe,  and  the  air  so  rarefied  that  it  is  difficult  to  breath ; 
on  making  great  exertions,  blood  would  gush  from  the 
nose  and  mouth. 

Some  miles  up  the  mountain,  between  the  Mer  de 
Glass  and  Mt.  Blanc  is  a  fertile  slope  where  grass  grows, 
and  flowers  bloom,  while  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
snow  and  ice.  To  this  place,  the  people  of  the  valley 
drive  their  cattle  each  summer  to  feed  on  the  grass.  A 
road  is  prepared  for  their  transit,  by  cutting  the  ice 
with  axes,  so  as  to  prevent  the  cattle  from  falling  into 
crevices.  All  things  being  ready,  the  cattle  are  dirven 
up  the  mountain  and  across  the  ice,  attended  by  men, 
women  and  children,  besides  lookers  on  to  see  the  sport. 
One  man  remains  with  the  cattle,  as  herdsman  who 
carries  with  him  a  supply  of  bread  and  cheese,  while  a 
cow  supplies  him  with  milk.  For  months  he  remains  here, 
guarding  the  herd,  sleeping  in  a  cave,  eating  his  bread 
and  cheese,  and  meditating  upon  the  wonders  of  nature. 


126  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC 


COL  DE  BALME. 

From  the  valley  of  Chaniouiii,  we  ascended  the  Col 
<le  Balme,  by  a  stony  mule  path  which  runs  zigzag  up 
the  mountain,  so  as  to  keep  the  grade  about  equal. 
This  mountain  contains  neither  trees  nor  shrubs,  but  a 
species  of  wire  grass  grows  on  it,  and  cattle,  sheep  and 
goats,  are  herded  here.  For  four  hours  we  continued 
our  way  up  the  mountain,  sometimes  resting  by  springs 
of  cold  water,  then  again  stopping  to  eat  a  species  of 
huckleberry,  which  groAVS  on  the  rocks.  On  the  summit 
are  two  hotels  consisting  of  temporary  buildings,  and 
occupied  only  during  the  summer  season.  Although  it 
was  a  brisfht  Autjust  dav  we  found  the  weather  at  this 
high  altitude  quite  cold,  and  the  hotel  was  without 
fire,  except  in  the  cook  stove,  and  the  fuel  used 
consisted  of  cattle  chips,  which  gave  a  very  offensive 
smell. 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  the  Col  de  Balme,  is 
very  grand,  and  is  probably  not  equalled  by  any  other 
scenery  among  the  Alps.  Sixty  miles  to  the  north-east 
we  could  see  the  Barnese  chain  of  mountains,  spread 
out  before  us  like  a  painted  panorama,  with  the  snow- 
capped Jungfrau  in  its  midst.  South  of  us,  in  plain 
view  were  two  peaks,  between  which  is  the  great  St. 
Bernard  Pass.  Near  by  us,  were  those  bold  rocky  crags 
which  form  such  an  important  feature  in  the  Alpine 
chain,  while  before  us  was  the  great  monarch  of  the 
Alps,    Mt.    Blanc,    nearly  three  miles   high,   being  the 


SIMPLOX      PASS.  127 

highest  ))oiiit  in  Europe.  At  the  foot  of  this  mountain 
the  view  is  not  good,  notwithstanding  it  can  be  seen 
from  bottom  to  top  ;  niucli  of  its  beauty  is  lost  by  tlie 
obstruction  of  other  peaks.  But  fi-om  here  ahnost 
every  gorge,  cliif  of  rocks,  and  even  the  cracks  in  the  ice 
are  visible,  and  for  many  miles  below  its  summit  shows  a 
smooth  surface  rising  like  a  sugar  loaf,  and  of  chalky 
whiteness. 

After  four  days  climbing  up  and  down  mountains, 
over  stone  and  rocks,  snow  and  ice,  making  the  whole 
distance  traveled  on  foot,  more  than  one  hundred  miles, 
we  returned  to  Martigny,  none  the  worse  for  wear, 
except  in  shoe  leather. 


SIMPLOX   PASS. 

From  Martigny  we  ascended  the  valley  of  the  Rhone 
as  far  as  Sion.  This  is  an  old  Swiss  town  with  a  few 
thousand  inhabitants  having  narrow  streets  and  high 
stone  houses  which  are  built  in  a  cluster  together.  Here 
are  three  old  castles,  two  of  which  are  now  in  i-uins, 
together  with  the  bishop's  palace,  and  many  old.  churches 
which  date  back  to  the  eleventh  centm'y,  giving  the 
town  a  feudal  aspect,  while  it  looks  as  though  it  might 
have  seen  better  days.  At  Sion  the  railroad  ends,  and 
the  only  conveyance  eastward  is  by  diligence,  which  is 
both  slow  and  expensive,  and  but  little  improvement 
on  the  old  fashioned  way  of  staging  in  the  United  States. 
These  diligences  are  built  high  and  long,  with  three 
compartments,  seating  in  all   eight  persons,  and  drawn 


128  bp:yonj)    the    Atlantic. 

by  five  horses,  which  are   changed   every   six  miles   on 
tlie  road. 

Here  is  the  commencement  of  the  great  Simplon  Pass, 
the  high-road  across  the  Alps  into  Italy,  distant  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles.  For  thirty  miles  the  road 
follows  up  the  valley  of  the  Rhone,  then  diverging,  it 
takes  to  the  mountains.  On  this  road  we  passed  through 
the  town  of  Yisp,  which  became  noted  in  1855,  on 
account  of  its  being  visited  by  many  shocks  of  earth- 
quakes, which  continued  for  weeks,  throwing  down 
many  buildings  and  cracking  others,  while  the  inhabi- 
tants left  their  homes  and  camped  in  the  valley.  When 
we  A  isited  this  place  it  was  suffering  from  a  calamity 
namely :  floods  of  water.  The  channel  of  the  Rhone 
here  is  higher  than  the  valley,  being  guarded  by  a 
stone  wall,  and  the  present  great  freshet  having 
made  a  breach  in  this  wall,  destroying  the  crops, 
and  washing  away  many  houses  while  the  water  was 
still  running  knee  deep  through  the  streets  of  the  town. 
The  inhabitants,  including  women  and  children,  were 
engaged  in  repairing  the  walls,  so  as  to  turn  the  water 
away  from  their  homes;  while  the  town  and  country 
around  it  looked  desolate.  If  I  lived  here  I  should 
certainly  leave,  and  seek  a  home  on  the  prairies  of  the 
w^est. 

Some  miles  above  Visp,  is  the  old  village  of  Glys,  a 
place  distinguished  by  its  old  Byzantine  Church,  said 
to  have  been  built  one  thousand  years  ago.  And  by 
the  side  of  it  is  the  charnel  house,  containing  more  than 
ten  thousand  skulls,  as  well  as  skeletons  of  saints,  who 


SIMPLON     PASS.  129 

lived  at  the  time  Christianity  was  first  introduced  amon<x 
the  Alps. 

At  Brieg,  the  road  leaves  the  valley  of  the  Rhone, 
and  for  sixteen  miles  it  has  a  gradual  ascent  up  tlie 
mountain,  turning  and  winding  about  in  various  direc- 
tions, so  as  to  keep  the  grade  equal;  sometimes  by  the 
side  of  high  precipices  where  the  road  has  been  cut  out 
of  a  cliff  of  rocks,  then  across  viaducts,  over  frightful 
gorges,  and  through  dark  tunnels  and  arched  galleries, 
making  it  without  doubt  the  greatest  work  of  the  kind 
in  the  world. 

This  road  was  built  by  Napoleon  for  the  purpose  of 
transporting  his  army  back  and  forth  from  France  to 
Italy,  and  to  avoid  the  difficulty  again  occurring  which 
he  experienced  in  crossing  the  Alps  at  the  great  St. 
Bernard's  Pass.  The  road  is  very  wide,  well  macada- 
mized and  contains  ten  tunnels,  over  six  hundred  brido^es, 
with  many  galleries,  and  along  it  are  twenty  houses  of 
refuge  to  lodge  travelers,  as  well  as  laborers  employed  in 
repairing  and  taking  care  of  the  road.  Before  reaching 
the  summit  we  came  to  a  very  dangerous  part  of  the 
road,  where  avalanches  had  carried  away  the  guards 
and  left  the  highway  exposed.  Here  are  many  long 
galleries  through  which  the  road  passes,  being  built  to 
protect  it  from  avalanches.  These  galleries  are  con- 
structed of  thick  stone  walls,  arched  over  at  the  top,  and 
lighted  by  openings  in  the  walls  at  long  intervals.  At 
one  place  there  is  a  large  stream  of  water  running  from 
the  glaciers  above,  passing  over  the  road,  and  making  a 
nice  waterfall. 


130  BEYOXD      TITE      ATLAXTIC. 

At  last  the  suminit  was  reached,  being  f:u-  above  the 
line  of  vegetation,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  snow  and  ice, 
while  below  ns  in  plain  view,  and  almost  under  us,  lies 
the  Rhone  valley,  with  the  city  of  Brieg,  which  we  had 
left  six  hours  before.  Here  on  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  is  a  hospice,  similar  to  the  one  at  St.  Bernard, 
which  is  a  place  of  stopping  for  all  travelers  crossing 
the  mountain.  This  place  is  kept  by  monks  of  the  order 
of  St.  Augustine,  who  are  very  polite  to  strangers, 
showing  them  through  the  building,  and  ofiering  them 
such  eatables  as  the  establishment  affords.  They 
offered  us  bread  and  cheese  to  eat,  with  cider  and  wine 
to  drink.  Politeness  required  us  to  partake  of  it  whether 
hunofrv  or  not.  There  are  manv  dosrs  of  the  St.  Bernard 
breed  kept  here,  to  assist  in  finding  travelers  who  may 
be  caught  in  a  snow  storm,  which  frequently  occurs 
during  the  winter  months.  Whoever  visits  this  pass,  of 
whatever  country,  or  religion  he  may  be,  will  always 
find  a  friendly  greeting,  both  fi'om  monks  and  dogs. 

From  here  we  commenced  a  descent  of  the  mountain, 
and  for  fifteen  miles  the  grade  of  the  road  is  about  the 
same  as  the  ascent.  With  rubbers  on  the  coach  wheels 
and  the  horses  in  a  fast  trot,  with  their  bells  ringing, 
and  with  the  constant  cracking  of  the  driA^ers  whip, 
brouQjht  us  down  the  mountain  in  half  the  time  occupied 
in  ascending  it.  The  southern  slope  of  the  mountain  is 
more  interesting  than  the  northern,  and  is  said  to 
present  the  finest  scenery  met  with  among  the  Alps. 
The  gorge  of  Gondo,  is  both  grand  and  wild,  with 
overhanging  rocks  above,  and  frightful  j^recipices  below, 


SIMPLON    PASS.  131 

where  the  rocks  rise  like  walls  on  either  side,  showing 
only  a  narrow  strip  of  sky  above.  The  roaring  of  the 
water  as  it  pitches  madly  over  the  rocks,  with  the 
rattling  of  the  diligence  as  it  passes  across  iron  viadnets 
to  enter  a  tunnel  through  the  cliffs,  and  again  comes  out 
of  the  dark  cavern  of  the  rocks  to  be  wet  by  the  spray 
of  the  cascades  below,  form  a  picture  probably  not  met 
wdth  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

While  enjoying  the  beautiful  scenery  on  the  road, 
the  Italian  frontier  is  crossed,  and  we  find  ourselves  in 
a  different  climate,  where  chestnut  and  other  forest  trees 
grow.  Instead  of  barren  rocks  with  snow  and  ice,  we 
saw  fields  of  grain  and  grass,  with  orchards  and  vine- 
yards loaded  with  fruit.  Here  are  villages  built  of 
Avhite  stone,  with  old  churches  containing  tall  square  bell 
tow^ers,  and  narrow  crooked  streets,  full  of  organ  grind- 
ers. And  here  were  lazy  lazzaroni,  clothed  in  greasy 
roundabouts  with  red  knit  caps  as  well  as  burly  priests 
dressed  in  uniform,  showing  the  country  to  be  Italian  in 
every  respect. 

At  Isella,  a  small  town  on  the  Italian  frontier,  we 
stoj^ped  at  the  custom  house,  where  our  baggage  under- 
went an  examination.  As  soon  as  the  stages  stopped 
they  were  surrounded  by  a  large  number  of  women  who 
w^ould  assist  in  handling  baggage  and  looking  after  the 
interest  of  strangers,  so  they  would  not  be  imposed  upon 
by  the  custom  house  officer.  We  could  not  understand 
what  these  w^omen  said  to  us,  but  supposed  it  to  be  kind 
words,  for  it  brought  roars  of  laughter  from  the  by- 
standers. 


132  BEYOND      THE      AT  LAX  TIC. 

We  passed  on  this  road  a  number  of  marble  quarries, 
with  large  boulders  of  the  same  Avhich  had  rolled  down 
from  the  mountain,  and  lying  around  loose.  For  forty 
miles  the  telegraph  poles  are  marble,  being  composed 
of  one  solid  piece  about  fifteen  feet  long;  and  many 
of  the  farm  and  village  houses  are  also  constructed  of 
marble. 

At  Stresa,  we  boarded  a  steamer  and  had  a  sail  on  the 

beautiful  lake  of  Maggiore.  This  lake  is  forty  ndles 
lono-,  and  from  three  to  seven  wide.  AVhile  steaming 
down  the  lake  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Mt.  Rosa,  one  of 
the  most  celebrated  peaks  of  the  Alps.  xVlthough  more 
than  fifty  miles  away,  it  appeared  close  by,  and  its 
snow-capped  summit  looked  like  a  wliite  cloud  high  up 
in  the  zenith.  From  the  south  end  of  the  lake  we  took 
the  cars  for  Milan,  forty  miles  distant. 


CHAPTER    X. 


MILAN. 


The  city  of  Milan,  the  former  capital  of  Lombardy 
contains  212,000  inhabitants,  and  stands  on  a  level  plain. 
It  is  Avell  built,  having  many  wide  and  smoothly  flagged 
streets,  houses  high,  many  of  which  are  coated  with 
marble,  and  the  general  appearance  of  the  city  is  attrac- 
tive. The  great  cathedral  of  Milan  is  said  to  be  the 
most  elegant  structure  in  the  world,  and  attracts 
universal  admiration.  It  is  constructed  of  white  marble 
of  a  gothic  style  of  architecture,  and  contains  one 
hundred  and  thirty-five  spires.  On  the  top  of  each  of 
these  spires  stands  a  colossal  marble  statue.  The 
center  one  is  three  hundred  and  thirty-six  feet  high,  and 
capped  by  a  gilt  statue.  The  outside  walls  are  orna- 
mented with  nineteen  hundred  and  twenty-three  marble 
statues,  and  the  inside  walls  have  six  hundred  and 
seventy-nine  statues.  This  church  w^as  commenced 
over  five  hundred  years  ago,  and  is  not  yet  completed, 
as  additional  statuary  is  placed  on  its  walls  every  year. 


13-i  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

In  the  basement,  under  the  high  altar,  is  the  Virgin's 
chapel  containing  many  things  of  great  antiquity,  such 
as  the  massive  gold  and  silver  ware  used  in  sacramental 
service  by  Constantine  the  Great.  Also  many  relics 
said  to  have  been  brouglit  from  Jerusalem  b/ Empress 
Helena.  Among  which  are  three  nails  from  the  qross,  the 
shrowd  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  seamless  coat  of  Christ. 

Here  in  Milan  is  the  greatest  arcade  in  the  world, 
built  at  the  crossing  of  two  wide  streets,  which 
takes  in  four  squares,  with  a  high  dome  in  the  center. 
In  this  dome  arc'  gas  burners  a  short  distance  apart, 
and  to  light  them  a  fire  car  is  put  in  motioii,  which 
perforins  tlie  whole  circle  lighting  each  burner  as  it 
l^asses.  The  floor  of  this  mammoth  arcade  is  composed 
of  marble  (mosaic  work),  inlaid  with  various  colors, 
and  representing  difl:erent  kinds  of  flowers,  Italian  coat 
of  arms  etc. 

Many  of  the  hotels  in  Milan  liave  an  ()j)cn  court  in 
the  center  whicli  connects  with  the  street  l^y  a  wide 
door,  so  that  carriages  having  guests  for  the  hotel  can 
drive  in  to  unload.  All  of  the  first  class  hotels  here, 
have  marble  floors  and  stairs  throughout  the  whole 
buildinir. 


PLAIXS  OF  LOMIJAllDY. 

The  plains  of  Lombardy  extend  from  the  southern 
slope  of  the  Alps,  to  the  head  of  the  Adriatic  Sea,  a 
distance  of  several  hundred  miles.  These  plains  have 
loniv  been  the   bone  of  contention  between    Italv  and 


PLAINS     OF    LOMBARDY.  135 

Austria,  as  well  as  the  scene  of  many  hard  fought  battles. 
Here  the  country  is  level,  without  timber  or  fencing, 
and  is  under  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  producing 
various  kinds  of  grain  and  fruits.  Silks,  wine,  and  mac- 
caroni,  constitute  its  principal  exports.  Mulberry  trees 
for  the  silk  culture  are  planted  in  rows  all  over  the 
country,  and  on  these  are  trained  the  grape  vine,  instead 
of  on  short  poles  as  in  other  countries.  In  France  and 
Germany,  there  are  large  vineyards,  but  here  on  the 
plains  of  Lombardy,  the  whole  country  is  one  vast  vine- 
yard. In  traveling  a  hundred  miles  or  more,  we  were 
all  the  while  in  the  midst  of  it. 

In  traveling  several  hundred  miles  through  the  plains 
of  Lombardy,  we  visited  a  number  of  old  cities,  much 
celebrated  in  ancient  history,  as  well  as  a  number  of 
battle  fields  memorable  for  the  past.  Forty  miles  north 
of  Milan  we  came  to  Lake  Como,  celebrated  in  all  ages 
on  account  of  its  mild  climate  and  beautiful  scenery. 
This  lake  is  thirtv-five  miles  lono:  and  from  two  to 
three  miles  wide,  and  on  it  are  running  two  lines  of 
steamboats.  Much  has  been  written  by  travelers  about 
the  beauty  and  enchanting  scenery  of  this  lake.  But 
these  glowing  accounts  must  have  been  written  by 
persons  who  have  never  seen  the  lakes  of  Switzerland, 
which  far  surpass  it  in  every  particular.  In  the 
surroundings  of  Lake  Como  there  are  neither  fine  forests, 
rugged  rocks,  nor  snow-capped  peaks ;  but  a  barren 
elevation  too  large  for  hills,  and  too  small  for  mountains. 
At  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  and  wedged  in  between  two 
hills,  is  located  the  old  city  of  Como,  where  Pliny  lived 


186  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

nearly  two  thousand  years  ago,  and  also  where  Volta 
lived  and  died;  a  tine  monumental  statue  of  him  stands 
on  the  market  square.  Here  in  Como,  as  well  as  other 
cities  of  northern  Italy,  the  larger  portion  of  the  women 
wear  no  shoes,  but  have  a  block  of  wood  fastened  on 
the  bottom  of  their  feet  by  a  strap  around  their  instep. 
Some  of  them  wear  stockings,  while  others  have  this 
block  of  W' ood  strapped  on  their  bare  feet.  These  blocks 
make  a  terrible  clattering  on  the  sidewalk. 

One  hundred  and  twenty  miles  south-east  of  Como, 
we  came  to  Verona,  a  large  city  partly  built  of  marble, 
and  at  a  distance  looking  like  a  city  of  palaces,  with  its 
wdiite  houses  and  beautiful  church  domes.  Here  is  the 
ruin  of  an  amphitheatre,  built  over  two  thousand  years 
ago,  the  walls  of  which  are  composed  of  marble  and  are 
in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  Fronting  the  cathedral, 
stands  the  colossal  statue  of  Roland,  and  near  it  is  that 
of  Oliver.  In  other  parts  of  the  city  are  many  statues 
and  monuments  erected  to  the  memory  of  statesmen  and 
warriors  of  ancient  Rome. 

Xear  Lake  Garda  we  saw  the  battle  field  of  Solferino, 
memorable  for  the  w^ar  of  18o9.  The  number  of  com- 
batants engaged,  and  the  many  thousands  slain,  makes 
this  the  greatest  battle  ever  fought  in  Eui'ope.  This 
battle  field  is  a  level  plain  extending  from  the  lake  to 
the  village  of  Solferino,  and  the  whole  of  it  can  be  seen 
at  one  view.  The  difierent  jDOsitions  of  the  contending 
armies  were  pointed  out  and  explained  to  us  by  one 
who  was  present  at  the  time,  and  participated  in  the 
battle.     The  buildings  here,  still   show^  marks   of  this 


VENICE.  137 

dreadful  conflict,  and  on  different  parts  of  the  battle 
field  are  long  rows  of  graves,  surmounted  with  a  cross 
and  containing^  hundreds  of  slain. 

Almost  every  town  along  the  Austrian  frontier  is 
strongly  fortified,  and  is  memorable  for  bloody  battles 
fought  around  their  walls. 


VEXICE. 

The  city  of  Venice  (styled  the  Queen  of  the  Adriatic), 
stands  off  in  the  sea,  three   miles  from  the  main  land, 
and  is  connected  with   it  only  by  a  railroad  bridge,  all 
other   communication   with    the  shore  is  by  boat.     On 
approaching  the  city  it  was   discovered  that   we   were 
traveling  on    water,  and  j^eople  looking   out  of  the  car 
windows,  would  fall  back  in  their  seats  with  a  shuddei-, 
as  the  thought  of  going  to  sea  in  a  railroad   train  Avas 
not   very  agreeable.      When   we  reached  the  city  the 
large  crowd  of  people  passed  through  the  depot  into  an 
open  square  where  gondolas  were  in  waiting  to  convey 
them  to   different  parts   of  the  city.     There   ai-e  many 
omnibus  gondolas  here   which  connect  with  the  trains, 
and   will   seat   twenty  or  thirty  persons.     These  have 
cushioned  seats,  curtained   windows,  and   are  rowed  by 
four  men.     For  nearly  two  miles  we  glided  on  the  way 
to  our  hotel,  no   rattling  of  carriages  on  the  pavement, 
nor  cracking  of  the  driver's  whips,  nor  swearing  of  dray- 
men, but  quietly  and  smoothly  we  passed  on  to  our  place 
of  destination.     On  our  way  we  met  a  funeral  procession 
consisting  of  some  thirty  gondolas  draped  in  mourning, 


138  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

and  with  muffled  oars.  Farther  on  we  met  a  large 
procession  consisting  of  one  hundred  or  more  gondolas 
with  a  band  of  music,  flags  waving,  and  with  loud 
cheering  as  they  passed,  celebratino;  some  national 
event. 

On  our  arrival  in  Venice  we  ascended  the  tow^er  of 
St.  Mark's,  which  is  three  hundred  and  sixteen  feet 
high,  the  top  of  which  is  reached  by  an  inclined  plain  of 
thirty-nine  turnings.  From  this  tower  the  whole  city 
with  its  surroundings  can  be  seen,  as  well  as  the  Adri- 
atic Sea  for  many  miles,  whitened  with  sails.  Nothing 
can  be  more  picturesque  than  a  view  from  this  tower, 
showing  a  large  city  with  its  many  fine  churches,  palaces 
and  piazzas  far  out  at  sea,  with  the  blue  waters  of  the 
Adriatic  on  every  side.  And  here  can  be  seen  thousands 
of  Gondolas  running  hither  and  thither  through  its 
numerous  streets. 

Where  the  city  now  stands  were  originally  seventy- 
two  small  islands,  and  the  foundation  for  the  buildings 
was  made  by  driving  down  piles  into  the  marsh.  The 
houses  are  mostly  built  of  stone,  five  or  six  stories  high, 
many  of  which  are  coated  with  marble  or  stucco,  and 
show  much  architectural  skill  in  their  construction. 
The  Church  of  St.  Mark's,  and  the  Palace  of  Doge,  are 
among  the  finest  buildings  in  the  tnty.  Adjoining  these 
edifices  is  the  great  piazza  of  St.  Mark,  surrounded  b}' 
fine  buildings  and  flagged  Avith  smooth  stone.  For 
many  centuries  this  square  has  been  the  head  quarters 
of  Venice.  It  was  here  Othello  addressed  the  assembled 
senate,  and    here,  Anthony  stood  when  he  appealed  to 


VENICE.  139 

the  Roman  soldiers  to  correct  the  evils  of  their  rulers. 

The  grand  canal,  which  is  the  Broadway  of  Venice, 
runs  the  whole  length  of  the  city,  dividing  it  about 
equally,  being  winding,  in  the  shape  of  an  S,  and  is 
about  three  hundred  feet  in  width.  Along  this  canal 
are  the  principal  hotels,  stores  and  shipping  houses,  as 
well  as  the  residences  of  the  aristocracy  of  the  city. 
There  are  no  sidewalks  along  it,  nor  any  of  the  streets 
of  Venice,  and  the  buildings  rise  straight  up  from  the 
water's  edge.  All  the  principal  streets  of  the  city  are 
canals,  many  of  which  are  quite  narrow,  with  buildings 
rising  high  above  the  water,  giving  them  a  dark  and 
gloomy  appearance.  Most  of  the  houses  have  both  a 
water  and  a  land  entrance,  the  latter  connects  with  a 
narrow  alley  a  few  feet  in  width,  which  is  dark  and 
gloomy.  But  here  in  these  narrow  passages  are  stores  and 
shops,  Avhere  thousands  of  people  live  and  die,  without 
ever  having  seen  growing  a  stalk  of  corn,  or  a  spire  of 
wheat.  Horses  and  carriages  are  never  seen  in  Venice, 
as  there  is  not  a  spot  in  the  whole  city  where  they 
could  be  used,  and  a  horse  or  cow  would  be  as  great 
curiosity  here,  as  an  elephant  or  camel  in  the  United 
States. 

Among  the  great  curiosities  of  Venice  are  the  gondolas 
which  are  peculiar  to  this  city,  and  I  believe  are  not 
met  with  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  They  are 
about  thirty  feet  long,  with  their  bow  and  stern  rising 
some  six  feet  above  the  water,  and  on  the  former  is  a 
large  figure  head  made  of  polished  steel.  Many  of  these 
vessels    are    ornamented    on   the    outside  Avith    carved 


140  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

work,  painted  black,  and  have  cushioned  seats,  with  a 
portable  top  letting  down  like  that  of  a  buggy.  There 
are  over  foui-  thousand  of  these  gondolas  in  the  city,  in 
many  of  which  the  owner  sleeps,  and  can  be  called  at 
any  time  of  night.  At  the  hotels  and  all  public  places, 
they  are  in  waiting  for  customers  who  wish  to  be  carried 
to  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  their  charges  are 
about  the  same  as  cabs  in  other  cities.  The  gondolas 
are  propelled  by  one  oar,  and  the  person  using  it  stands 
up  in  the  stern  of  the  vessel  running  it  through  the 
narrow  streets  of  the  city  with  great  rapidity. 

Accordinor  to  historv,  Venice  at  one  time  was  the 
greatest  commercial  city  in  the  world;  then  its  sails 
whitened  every  sea,  and  its  ships  were  seen  in  every 
port.  But  of  late  it  has  lost  much  of  its  commerce, 
even  the  trade  of  the  Adriatic  mostly  goes  to  Triest 
eisrhtv  miles  east  of  it.  Notwithstandino^  her  line 
churches,  palaces  and  queenly  appearance,  she  is  a 
doomed  city,  unless  some  change  is  made  in  her  com- 
mercial aifairs. 

The  present  population  of  Venice  is  one  hundred  and 
thirty  thousand,  and  it  has  a  free  port. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


CROSSING    THE   APPENNINES. 

Midway  between  the  Mediteranean  and  Adriatic  Seas, 
stands  the  old  and  much  celebrated  city  of  Bologna. 
Containing  over  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  through  which  are  twelve 
gates  guarded  by  soldiers  who  collect  duties  on  produce 
going  into  the  city.  The  aspect  of  the  city  is  ancient 
and  gloomy  with  narrow  crooked  streets,  along  which 
are  arcades  covering  the  sidewalk,  causing  the  stores 
and  shops  along  them  to  be  dark  and  unattractive. 
Here  in  Bologna  are  two  leaning  towers,  the  highest 
of  which  is  three  hundred  and  twenty-one  feet,  and  the 
date  on  its  base  shows  that  it  was  built  in  the  year  1109. 

A  person  traveling  through  Italy  will  be  surprised  at 
the  magnitude  of  its  churches,  some  of  which  cost 
millions  of  dollars,  and  occupied  centuries  in  their 
construction.  Small  towns  in  some  cases,  contain 
churches  more  costly  than  any  found  in  the  United 
States.      These  churches  were  built  by  the  government. 


142  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

.•md  every  person,  rich  or  poor,  contributed  a  part  to 
their  construction.  And  well  may  it  be  said  that  Italy 
is  a  country  of  rich  churches,  but  poor  people. 

After  remaining  one  day  in  Bologna,  we  took  the 
cars  for  the  west,  passing  up  a  valley  where  the  hills 
were  high  on  either  side,  until  the  hight  of  the  Appen- 
nines  was  reached  and  crossed.  The  railroad  across 
these  mountains  is  considered  the  best  specimen  of 
engineering  in  Europe.  In  places  it  passes  under  cliffs 
of  rocks,  into  tunnels,  across  frightful  gorges  spanned 
by  iron  viaducts,  then  zigzag  along  the  mountain,  being 
more  of  the  time  under  ground  than  on  top  of  it.  At 
last  the  summit  is  reached,  and  the  descent  was  made 
in  the  same  way  as  the  ascent.  On  reaching  the  valley 
below,  a  tower  was  pointed  out  marking  the  place  where 
Cataline  was  defeated  (B.  C.  60),  and  beyond  this  tower 
we  came  to  Pistiga.  This  is  a  manufacturing  city, 
containing  about  twelve  thousand  inhabitants,  and  it 
is  said  that  pistols  were  first  made  here,  and  from  that 
circumstance  derived  their  name. 


LORETO. 

On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Appennines  is  located  the 
celebrated  town  of  Loreto,  containing  the  sacred  house 
or  Santa  Casa,  which  originally  stood  in  Nazareth. 
Accordingr  to  tradition  this  wonderful  house  was  the 
birthplace  of  Virgin  Mary,  and  the  scene  of  annunciation 
as  well  as  the  residence  of  the  holy  family  after  their 
return  from  Egypt.     In  the  year  1294,  it  was  transported 


L  ORE  TO.  143 

by  divine  agency  from  Palestine  to  Italy,  and  after 
various  attempts  to  land  somewhere  in  the  Pope's 
dominions,  it  finally  settled  down  at  Loreto  where  it 
still  remains.  A  number  of  persons  vdio  lived  in  that 
day,  and  whose  names  are  recorded  in  the  church  book, 
certify  that  they  saw  this  house  floating  through  the 
air,  sometimes  over  the  Adriatic  Sea,  then  over  the 
mountains  and  plains,  but  was  guided  by  the  angel 
Gabriel  to  its  final  resting  place.  This  miraculous  story 
is  not  only  believed  by  the  ignorant  and  superstitious 
people  here,  but  the  intelligent  and  educated  regard  it  a 
miracle  which  they  dare  not  question.  Even  popes 
and  crowned  heads,  have  worshiped  at  its  shrine,  and 
for  more  than  five  hundred  years  pilgrims  from  all  j^arts 
of  Europe  have  visited  it. 

This  sacred  house  is  about  twenty-five  feet  long,  and 
fifteen  feet  wide,  constructed  with  brick,  and  enclosed 
in  a  marble  case,  which  stands  in  one  wing  of  a  church. 
It  has  an  ancient  appearance,  with  only  one  window, 
and  one  door;  its  floor  consists  of  red  and  white  marble, 
the  original  one  having  been  lost  in  its  miraculous  flight 
from  Palestine.  In  one  part  of  this  house  is  a  shrine 
containing  among  other  things,  the  statue  of  the  Virgin 
and  Infant  Christ,  said  to  have  been  cut  by  St. 
Luke  out  of  the  cedar  of  Lebanon.  Around  this  shrine 
are  a  large  number  of  silver  lamps,  which  are  kept 
continually  burning,  and  before  it  at  all  hours  of  the 
day  people  can  be  seen  kneeling  in  prayer. 


144  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC 


FLORENCE. 

The  city  of  Florence  has  frequently  been  styled  the 
Athens  of  Europe,  and  the  cradle  of  fine  arts,  from 
which  has  emanated  statues  and  paintings,  that  now 
adorn  the  museums  and  palaces  throughout  the  whole 
civilized  world.  Here  are  collected  the  best  sculptors 
and  painters  of  all  countries,  among  whom  are  some 
from  the  United  States,  who  have  already  acquired 
fame  and  distinction,  and  bid  fair  to  eclipse  those  of  the 
old  world. 

Florence  is  built  on  a  level  plain,  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  Arno,  over  which  are  seven  bridges.  The  city  con- 
tains a  population  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  and 
is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  through  which  are  seven 
gates  guarded  by  soldiers  who  collect  duties  on  almost 
every  article  brought  into  the  city.  Most  of  the  streets 
are  narrow,  but  the  main  thoroughfares  are  of  good 
width,  flagged  with  square  blocks  of  stone  which  makes 
them  smooth  and  attractive.  The  buildings  are  high, 
composed  of  stone,  and  show  much  beauty  in  their 
construction.  In  difierent  parts  of  the  city  are  public 
squares  called  piazzas,  which  are  paved  with  flag  stones, 
but  contain  neither  trees,  grass  nor  flowers.  Public 
squares  of  this  kind  are  common  m  all  the  cities  of  Italy. 
Many  of  the  streets  and  small  squares  are  filled  up  with 
market  stalls,  making  it  almost  impossible  to  pass  through 
them  during  business  hours. 

The  public  puildings  of  Florence  constitute  its  most 


,.„.mii.r,!;,;:'-;r'r«^ 


FLORENCE.  147 

striking  feature,  many  of  which  for  elegance  and  beauty 
surpass  those  of  other  Italian  cities,  while  the  squares 
adjoining  them  are  filled  with   statues   which   repvesent 
warriors,  and  statesmen  of  past  ages.     The  Duorao,  or 
great  cathedral    of  Florence,  is   the   largest    and  most 
conspicuous    building   in    the    city,  and  its    lofty  dome 
towers  up   above   all   other  objects,  constituting  a  land 
mark  to  guide  a  stranger  in  his  walks.     This  cathedral 
was  commenced   in   the   year   1298,  and   is    still   in   an 
unfinished  condition;  workmen  are  still  employed  on  it. 
The  outside  is  coated  with  marble  of  white,  black,  and 
green  colors,  intermixed  so  as  to  make  the  prospective 
views    beautiful    in    the   extreme.     The    inside    of    the 
cathedral  is  coated  with  marble  and  gilt.     The  dome  is 
three    hundred    and    seventy-eight   feet   high;    on    the 
inside  are  paintings  representing  paradise  on   one  side, 
and  punishment  of  the   condemned   on   the   other.     By 
the  side  of  this   cathedral   stands   its  great  bell   tower, 
two  hundred  and   seventy-six  feet   high,  constructed  of 
colored  marble,  and  it  is  said  to  be  the   most   elegant 
tower  in  Europe.     The   accompaning  view  of  Florence 
shows  this  cathedral  on  the  right,  while   on   the  left,  is 
seen  one  of  the  beautiful  bridges  across  the  Arno. 

On  the  piazza  of  St.  Marco,  is  situated  the  great 
Florentine  factory  of  mosaic  work,  belonging  to  the 
government.  Here  are  manufactured  articles  of  furni- 
ture which  sell  as  hiorh  as  an  half  million  dollars  each. 

The  Uffizi  museum,  next  to  the  Louvre  of  Paris,  is  the 
largest  in  Europe,  consisting  of  many  halls  and  galleries 
where    everything    is  arranged  according  to  its  order, 


148  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

and  to  examine  them  would  require  many  days.  Here 
are  the  life  size  busts,  cut  in  marble,  and  said  to  be 
taken  from  life  of  all  the  Roman  Emperors,  as  well  as 
many  warriors  and  statesmen  of  their  day.  In  one 
room  are  many  sarcophagi  taken  from  the  catacombs 
of  Vatterre,  which  contain  the  remains  of  people  who  * 
lived  before  the  Christian  era.  On  the  covers  of  many 
of  these  sarcophagi,  is  the  likeness,  cut  in  stone,  of  the 
person  entombed  therein,  some  of  which  are  in  a  sitting, 
while  others  are  in  a  lying  position.  From  Uffizi  muse- 
um, there  is  a  gallery  connecting  it  with  Pitti  Palace 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  This  gallery  is  about 
one  fourth  of  a  mile  in  length,  passing  through  blocks 
of  buildings,  across  streets,  and  over  the  river  on  a 
bridge.  Along  the  whole  length  of  this  gallery  the 
walls  are  hung  with  paintings  and  tapestry.  Pitti 
Palace  is  the  present  resiclence  of  the  king  of  Italy,  but 
twelve  apartments  of  it  belong  to  the  Uffizi  museum, 
and  are  open  to  the  public. 

Close  by  Pitti  Palace  is  located  the  museum  of  natural 
history,  with  an  astronomical  observatory,  and  also  a 
large  collection  of  instruments  which  Avere  used  by  the 
early  teachers  of  science.  And  here  is  the  temple  of 
Galileo,  built  to  his  memory,  and  containing  with  other 
thincrs  the  ^reat  telescope  with  which  he  discovered  the 
satellites  of  Jupiter.  And  here  is  Galileo's  statue  taken 
from  life,  which  shows  him  to  have  been  a  man  of  great 
physical,  as  well  as  mental  powers.  I  visited  the 
studios  of  Powers,  Hart,  and  Simmons,  and  other 
American  sculptors,  all  of  whom  I  found  busy  at  work. 


KriNS    OF     FIESOLE.  149 

gathering  tlie  laurels  from  the  brows  of  sculptors  of  the 
old  world. 

Much  has  been  said  about  the  beautiful  situation  of 
Florence,  its  mild  and  healthful  climate,  its  smootli 
flagged  streets,  its  fine  edifices,  and  its  artistic  treasures. 
All  of  these  combined  make  Florence  the  most  attractive 
place  in  Europe,  and  it  was  with  feelings  of  regret,  that 
I  left  it,  for  the  city  of  the  popes.  But  everything  comes 
to'an  end,  and  so  did  my  stay  in  Florence. 

RUINS  OF  FIESOLE. 

Three  miles  from  Florence,  on  a  high  hill,  one  thous- 
and feet  above  the  plains  of  Arno,  is  to  be  seen  the 
ruins  of  Fiesole,  which  have  been  so  often  referred  to  in 
the  history  of  ancient  Rome.  The  road  leading  to  these 
ruins,  passes  across  the  plain,  by  the  side  of  beautiful 
villas  which  are  surrounded  by  parks,  and  flower  gardens, 
where  fountains  of  water  are  spouting  forth  among  the 
orange  and  lemon  trees.  Some  of  these  villas  have  been 
the  residences  of  distinguished  men  of  past  ages,  one  of 
which  is  called  Arcetri  Villa,  where  Galileo  lived  and 
died,  and  where  he  made  many  of  his  observations  in 
astronomy.  Here  he  rambled  over  these  beautiful 
grounds  after  he  had  lost  his  eye  sight,  and  here 
Milton  visited  him,  and  wrote  that  celebrated  poem 
describing  this  villa. 

Fiesole  was  one  of  the  oldest  cities  of  Italy,  and  a 
place  of  great  importance  during  the  time  of  the  Roman 
Republic.     It  was  here  Cataline  retreated  after  his  defeat 


150  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

(B.  C.  60),  and  surrounded  as  he  was  by  the  strong  walls  of 
the  city,  bid  defiance  to  the  Roman  authorities.  Some 
of  his  treasure,  consisting  of  the  coin  of  that  day,  and. 
buried  here  at  the  time,  was  found  about  forty  years 
ago.  Part  of  the  city  wall  is  still  standing,  with  two 
of  its  ruined  gates,  also  the  remains  of  a  great  amphi- 
theatre, together  with  some  of  its  ruined  temples  and 
palaces. 

Modern  Fiesole  is  but  a  small  village,  occupying  a 
portion  of  the  ground,  within  the  walls  of  the  ruined  city. 
A  monastery  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  fortification, 
and  a  view  from  the  terrace  of  its  walls  is  very  fine. 
Here  can  be  seen  high  hills  without  forest  trees,  but 
covered  with  orchards  of  olive  and  fig,  between  which 
are  vineyards,  and  cultivated  fields.  While  below  us  is 
a  large  plain  with  its  many  towns  and  villages,  and 
through  which  runs  the  river  Arno,  winding  back  and 
forth  like  a  serpent.  Right  before  us,  and  looking  like 
a  painted  panorama,  lies  the  beautiful  city  of  Florence, 
with  its  fine  churches  and.  palaces,  while  far  distant  can 
be  seen  the  blue  outlines  of  the  Appennine  moutanins. 

After  spending  the  day  among  the  ruins  of  this 
Etrusean  city,  and  meditating  upon  the  many  great 
events  that  took  place  here  thousands  of  years  ago,  the 
actors  of  which  are  now  sleeping  in  the  catacombs  close 
by,  we  returned  to  Florence  much  delighted  with  our 
visit  to  the  ruins  of  Fiesole. 

On  the  morning  of  the  first  of  October  we  were  on 
the  cars  for  Rome  which  is  two  hundred  and  thirty 
miles    distant.       The    railroad    between     these    points 


RUINS      OF     FIESOLE.  151 

follows  the  western  slope  of  the  Appennines,  and  the 
country  is  hilly,  without  timber,  and  is  in  a  bad  state 
of  cultivation,  difiei-ing  very  much  from  the  northern 
part  of  Italy.  We  passed  on  our  way,  many  old  towns 
and  cities  which  are  built  on  high  hills  surrounded 
with  walls  and  high  watch  towers,  giving  them  a 
feudal  aspect. 

On  passing  the  Italian  frontier,  the  Pojdc's  officers 
came  aboard  of  the  cars  demanding  passports  which 
they  keep,  until  our  arrival  at  Rome.  All  that  were 
not  provived  with  passports  were  stopped,  and  sent 
back  on  the  next  train. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


KOME. 


The  present  population  of  Rome  is  about  two  hundred 
thousand.  The  city  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Tiber, 
fourteen  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  wall 
thirteen  miles  in  length,  fifty  feet  high,  ornamented  with 
three  hundred  towers,  and  pierced  by  twenty-one  gates. 
Ancient  Rome  was  built  on  seven  hills,  three  of  which 
are  covered  by  the  modern  city,  and  the  other  four 
contain  the  ruins  of  the  old,  all  of  which  lie  within  the 
city  walls.  The  churches,  of  which  there  are  three 
hundred  and  sixty-four,  form  the  most  conspicuous 
feature  of  the  city.  Most  of  these  churches  are 
coated  both  outside  and  in,  with  colored  marble,  and 
contain  fine  paintings  and  statuary.  Many  of  them 
have  been  built  of  material  taken  from  temples  and 
palaces  of  ancient  Rome,  and  a  few  of  the  old  heathen 
temples  have  been  changed  into  the  form  of  christian 
worship. 

The  streets  of  Rome  are  narrow   and  winding,  paved 


ROME.  153 

with  small  flat  stone,  witliout  sidewalks,  and   are  dirty 

and  filthy,  producing  a  great  variety  of  offensive  smells. 

The  Corso  extending  from  Capitol ine  Hill  to  the  gate  of 

Del    Popolo,    is    the    great   thoroughfare    of    tlie    city. 
Along  it  are  many  fine  piazzas  and  i5alaces,  as  well  as 

the  best  stores  of  the  city. 

The  river  Tiber  running:  throui^h  the  citv  is  a  small 
dirty  looking  stream,  with  but  little  commerce,  and 
crossed  bv  many  stone  bridi^es.  But  small  as  this  river 
is,  it  once  floated  the  Roman  fleet,  which  conquered  the 
world.  On  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  stands  the  great 
castle  of  Stanjelo,  built  in  a  circular  form,  and  constitut- 
ing one  of  the  j)rincipal  land  marks  of  Rome. 

In  the  north-west  part  of  the  city  near  St.  Peter's 
church,  is  located  the  Vatican,  containing  the  great 
Roman  museum,  as  well  as  a  royal  palace,  the  present 
residence  of  the  Pope.  To  examine  this  museum,  would 
require  a  number  of  days,  as  the  collection  of  ancient 
paintings  and  sculptures  is  the  largest  in  the  world. 
Here  are  to  be  seen  manuscripts  of  the  bible,  which  were 
wTitten  in  the  second  century,  also  the  original 
manuscript  of  the  works  of  St.  Jerome,  written  in  the 
year  364. 

The  catacombs  of  Rome  are  situated  outside  of  the 
city  walls,  and  on  account  of  their  historical  celebrity 
and  connection  with  primitive  Christians,  are  fre- 
quently visited  by  travelers.  The  entrance  to  these 
catacombs  is  through  a  church,  and  a  monk  with  lighted 
candles  conducts  the  party  through  these  vaulted  cham- 
bers which  are  said  to  have  been  the  burial  place  for  more 


154  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

than  six  million  of  human  beings.  In  some  places  bones 
and  stacks  of  skulls  are  seen,  and  occasionally  a  sar- 
cophagus containing  the  ashes  of  some  distinguished 
person.  In  these  catacombs  are  large  chambers  where 
the  early  christians  met  to  Avorship,  and  here  many  of 
them  fled  to  escape  persecution,  living  and  dying  in 
these  loathsome  vaults.  One  of  these  large  chambers, 
called  Saint's  Chapel,  is  said  to  have  been  a  place  of 
worship  for  converts  under  the  preaching  of  Paul  and 
Peter,  and  on  that  account,  is  regarded  by  the  monks 
as  the  most  sacred  place  in  the  catacombs.  In  this 
apartment  are  many  devices  on  the  walls,  cut  into  the 
rock,  and  bearing  date  A.  D.  92,  representing  Christian 
ordinances,  one  of  which  shows  baptism  by  pouring. 

In  the  East  part  of  the  city  is  located  the  convent  of 
Holy  Friars,  which  is  occupied  by  some  four  hundred 
monks  of  that  order.  This  convent  consists  of  a  number 
of  large  buildings,  and  in  the  back  part  of  which  are 
eight  rooms  filled  with  the  bones  of  more  than  fifty 
thousand  monks.  These  bones  have  been  accumulating 
for  over  one  thousand  years,  and  are  put  up  according 
to  their  order,  Avitli  columns  of  skulls  and  shank  bones, 
rising  ten  feet  high.  On  the  walls  and  ceiling,  bones 
of  various  sizes  are  arranged  with  much  skill,  represent- 
ing the  Pope's  coat  of  arms,  different  kinds  of  animals, 
flowers,  etc.  Among  these  bone^  are  many  sainted 
monks  wrapped  in  raetalic  robes,  and  are  well  preserved 
mummies.  Some  of  these  are  lying  on  shelves  among 
stacks  of  skulls,  others  sitting  or  standing,  and  all  have 
on  their  breasts  their  name  and  time  of  death,  some  of 


ROME.  155 

which  date  back  to  tlie  eighth  century.  The  ground 
floor  of  these  rooms  is  fully  occupied  with  graves  of 
monks,  and  when  one  dies,  the  remains  of  another  are 
taken  up,  and  his  bones  placed  on  the  shelves;  thus, 
room  is  made  in  the  burial  ground  for  the  new  occupant. 

In  the  old  part  of  the  city  among  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Rome,  is  the  church  of  St.  John  Laterena,  which  was 
built  in  the  fourth  century,  and  by  order  of  Constantine 
the  Great,  consequently  is  the  oldest  church  in  Europe. 
In  the  chapel  of  this  church  are  to  be  seen  the  holy  stairs 
which  were  brought  from  Jerusalem  by  Empress  Helena 
in  the  year  326,  being  the  same  upon  which  Christ 
ascended  to  the  judgment  seat  of  Pilate.  These  stairs 
are  constructed  of  white  marble,  with  twenty-eight  steps, 
and  are  covered  on  the  top  with  thick  plank,  to  prevent 
wearinsc.  No  one  is  allowed  to  ascend  these  stairs 
excei)t  on  his  knees.  At  all  hours  of  the  day,  people 
of  various  ages,  with  decrepit  old  men  and  women  are 
seen  going  up  and  down  these  stairs  on  their  knees. 

On  the  southern  slope  of  Capitoline  Hill  stands  the 
celebrated  Marmertine  prison,  which  is  said  to  be  the 
oldest  building  now  standing  in  Rome.  This  prison  is 
memorable  as  the  place  of  confinement  of  the  leaders  in 
Cataline's  rebellion,  (B.  C.  60),  as  well  as  the  place 
where  St.  Peter  was  imprisoned.  The  upper  part  of 
this  prison  is  now  used  for  a  church,  being  dedicated  to 
St.  Peter,  and  on  the  day  of  our  visit,  was  full  of  priests 
and  monks  who  had  come  as  pilgrims  from  different 
parts  of  Europe,  to  celebrate  the  anniversary  of  the 
Apostle's  birth.     A  monk  Avith  a  lighted  lamp  conducted 


156  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

US  down  two  flights  of  stairs,  into  a  dark  dungeon  cut 
out  of  a  rock,  and  lighted  only  by  a  single  lamp  which 
hung  on  the  wall.  The  only  means  of  ventilation  to 
this  vault  is  by  a  small  circular  opening  in  the  ceiling 
which  connects  with  the  room  above.  Here,  said  the 
monk,  in  this  loathsome  prison,  St.  Peter  was  confined, 
and  heie  is  the  stone  pillar  with  the  ring  still  in  it  where 
he  was  chained,  and  here  also  is  the  water  with  which 
he  baptized  the  jailor.  At  tlie  same  time  uncovering  a 
small  tank  of  water,  sunk  below  the  level  of  the  stone 
floor,  and  dipping  up  some  of  it  he  handed  us  to  drink. 

There  are  many  things  here  which  the  monk  pointed 
out  as  being  connected  with  the  imprisonment  of  St. 
Peter.  Some  of  which  would  require  more  credulity  than 
I  possess,  to  believe.  But  there  can  be  no  doubt  about 
the  Apostle  being  imprisoned  here,  as  it  was  a  matter 
of  too  great  importance  to  be  overlooked  by  early 
church  historians,  and  it  is  also  corroborated  by  Plu- 
tarch who  wrote  in  that  day,  and  who  was  at  that  time 
a  resident  of  Rome. 

Rome  at  one  time  was  the  mistress  of  the  world, 
counting  its  inhabitants  by  millions;  then  its  power 
and  fame  was  acknowledged  by  all  nations.  But  its 
gjlorv  has  departed,  and  it  now  only  contains  the  relics 
of  its  former  grandeur.  No  longer  the  home  of  the 
ajreat  orators  and  statesmen,  but  where  poverty,  igno- 
rance and  priestcraft  reigns  supreme,  and  is  without 
doubt  the  worst  governed  city  in  Europe.  Martial  law 
is  in  force  here,  and  no  one  is  allowed  to  enter  or  leave 
the  city  without  a  passport.     The  police  are  all  secret, 


ROME.  157 

some  in  citizen's  dress,  others  in  a  garb  of  a  priest  or 
street  sweeper.  And  these  policemen  make  frequent 
arrests  of  persons  for  using  seditious  language.  Here 
there  is  a  system  of  religious  intolerance,  and  all 
Protestants  are  compelled  to  hold  their  meetings  outside 
of  the  city  walls. 

The  Pope  is  frequently  seen  riding  through  the  streets, 
always  accompained  by  a  troop  of  horsemen  and 
carriages  containing  dignitaries  of  the  church.  No 
sovereign  in  Europe  meets  with  such  cordial  reception 
from  his  subjects  as  he.  With  the  Pope  there  is  a 
religious  awe  which  appears  to  fascinate  all  that  look 
upon  him.  When  his  holiness  is  known  to  be  coming 
through  a  street  all  the  carriages  turn  out  of  it,  and  the 
people  riding  in  them,  get  out  and  take  off  their  hats. 

The  first  day  I  spent  in  Rome,  while  riding  through 
a  street,  I  found  it  in  great  confusion,  people  running 
this  way  and  that,  crying  Pope,  Pope.  I  found  my 
carriage  up  against  a  building,  and  the  driver  motioning 
me  to  get  out,  but  I  remained  seated',  feeling  more  safe  in 
the  carriage  than  in  the  crowd.  To  my  surprise,  I 
found  the  driver  and  two  other  men  whom  I  supposed 
were  policemen,  helping  me  out.  They  motioned  me 
to  take  off  my  hat,  but  I  shook  my  head.  Again  with 
angry  jestures  they  ordered  my  hat  off,  but  my  hat 
remained  on  my  head  notwithstanding  their  threats. 


158  BEYOND      THE      A  T  L  A  X  TI  C  . 


CHURCH   OF  ST.   PETER. 

This  iiiaminotli  structure  is  located  near  the  Tiber, 
in  the  north-west  part  of  the  city,  and  is  said  to  occupy 
the  spot  where  once  stood  Xero's  circus,  as  well  as  thu 
place  where  St.  Peter  was  martyred.  This  building 
with  its  chapels,  porticos  and  piazzas  coyers  eight  acres 
of  ground,  and  occupied  one  hundred  and  seventy-six 
years  in  its  construction,  at  a  cost  of  fifty  million  dollars. 
The  front  of  the  church  is  ornamented  with  marble 
columns  ninety-two  feet  high,  between  which  are  iron 
crates  that  open  into  a  yestibule  four  hundred  and  sixty- 
eio-ht  feet  long,  and  fifty  feet  wide.  From  here  are  five 
bronze  doors  opening  into  the  main  church.  One  of  these 
doors  called  Porta  Santa  is  walled  up  and  has  a  cross 
hano-iucT  in  its   center.     This   door  is  broken    down    on 


Christmas  eve,  of  the  year  of  jubilee,  which  occurs  every 
twentv-five  years.  The  Pope  commencing  the  work  of 
demolition  by  striking  the  door  three  times  with  a 
silver  hammer. 

On  either  side  of  the  main  entrance  to  the  church  are 
porticos  supported  by  four  rows  of  marble  columns 
between  which  carriages  pass  and  repass,  as  well  as 
footmen  entering  the  church.  In  these  porticos  are 
quartered  soldiers  belonging  to  the  Pope's  guard,  who 
are  t-lothed  in  striped  uniforms  consisting  of  black,  red 
and  yellow  colors,  looking  like  a  regiment  of  circus 
clowns.  In  the  piazza  fronting  the  church  are  two  large 
fountains     which    are    always    playing,  alsc*    the    great 


CHUKril      OF      ST.      PETER.  159 

Egyptian  obelisk  which  the  ancient  Romans  transported 
from  the  city  of  the  Sun  more  than  two  thousand  years 
ago. 

The  prospective  view  of  St.  Peter's  Church  is  not 
very  imposing,  as  tlie  building  is  on  such  an  extensive 
scale  that  a  person  is  apt  to  loose  its  correct  proportion. 
The  main  dome  which  is  four  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet 
high,  and  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  feet  in  diameter, 
looks  neither  high  nor  large.  The  marble  statues  of 
Christ  and  the  Apostles,  eighteen  feet  high,  which 
adorn  the  front  of  the  church,  look  small,  scarcely  life 
size.  But  on  entering  the  church  a  person  will  be 
surprised  at  its  magnitude  and  grandeur,  Avhicli  exceeds 
all  other  churches  in  the  world,  and  he  will  find  himself 
lost  in  admiration.  The  floor  is  laid  with  different 
colored  marble,  and  the  walls  are  composed  of  a  like 
material,  while  the  ceiling  is  ornamented  with  gilt 
and  stucco,  reminding  one  of  Miltons  description  of 
Paradise. 

On  the  top  of  St.  Peter's  Church  is  a  fine  walk  or 
promenade,  around  the  principal  dome,  and  by  the  side 
of  which  are  houses  where  the  soldiers  guarding  the 
building  are  quartered. 

In  diff*erent  parts  of  the  church  are  sepulchral  monu- 
ments to  ancient  popes,  Avhich  contain  their  remains, 
and  a  statue  of  their  person.  In  all  parts  of  the  church 
can  be  seen  fine  statuary  and  paintings,  some  of  which 
are  made  by  inlaying  different  colored  marble  so  as  to 
form  the  various  shades  of  the  picture.  Among  all  the 
fine  paintings    and   statuary  in   St.   Peter's  there  is   no 


160  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

object   that    attracts    so    much    attention    as    Michael 
Angelo's  statue  of  Moses. 

In  that  part  of  the  church  called  the  Tribune  i.s  to  be 
seen  the  famous  chair  of  St.  Peter,  which  is  made  of 
bronze,  ornamented  with  gold  and  placed  on  the 
shoulder's  of  four  colossal  statues.  Inside  of  this  chair 
is  said  to  be  the  identical  one  used  by  St.  Peter,  and 
many  of  his  successors.  In  one  part  of  tlie  Tribune 
are  many  figures,  emblems  and  devices,  with  inscriptions 
dated  December,  A.  D.  1054,  relating  to  the  dogma  of 
the  immaculate  conception. 

Under  the  center  of  the  main  dome  is  the  high  altar 
constructed  of  bronze  and  gold,  ninety-five  feet  high. 
Under  this  altar  are  the  stairs  leading  down  to  the 
crypt,  and  around  it  is  a  circular  balustrade  composed 
of  colored  marble,  on  which  are  suspended  ninety-three 
silver  lamps  that  are  kept  burning  night  and  day. 

In  five  diffierent  places  in  the  church  are  altars  where 
services  are  frequently  conducted  at  the  same  time,  and 
around  them  are  paintings,  statuary,  crucifixes,  etc. 
Midway  between  these  altars  is  the  life  size  bronze 
statue  of  St.  Peter,  sitting  in  a  marble  chair,  with  one 
foot  extended,  and  holding  in  one  hand  a  bunch  of  keys 
while  the  other  hand  is  raised  as  if  he  were  in  the  act  of 
speaking.  Before  this  statue  I  saw  many  people  kneeling 
in  prayer,  while  others  were  kissing  its  big  toe.  Crowds 
of  people  of  all  classes,  the  ragged  beggar,  the  soldier, 
the  priest,  as  well  as  the  fashionably  dressed  gentlemen 
and  ladies,  would  take  their  turn  in  kissing  St.  Peter's 
big  toe.     First  putting  their  lips  to  the  toe,  then  touching 


RUIXS      OF      ANCIENT      ROME.  161 

it  with  their  forehead,  then  again  with  their  lips. 
On  some  occasions  it  is  said  that  more  than  five  thous- 
and people  kiss  it  in  one  day,  and  the  toe  is  much  worn 
bv  lono'  use. 


RUINS  OF  ANCIENT  ROME. 

On  the  south  side  of  modern  Rome,  and  within 
its  walls,  are  still  to  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
city,  consisting  of  palaces,  temples,  triumphal  arches, 
amphitheatres  and  other  great  edifices  of  antiquity. 
Assisted  by  a  guide,  we  spent  some  days  in  the  examin- 
ation of  these  ruins,  visiting  many  of  the  buildings 
spoken  of  in  ancient  history,  some  of  which  are  well 
preserved,  and  are  tlie  most  interesting  of  all  the  relics 
of  past  ages. 

The  largest  and  most  interesting  building  of  ancient 

Rome,  is  the  great  Amphitheatre   or   Coliseum,   which 

was  built  by  the  Emperor  Vespasian,  A.  D.  72.     This 

mammoth  structure  is  nearly  round,  covering  seven  acres 

of  ground,  with  walls  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  thick,  and 

one    hundred    and    fifty-seven    feet   high.     About   one 

third  of  the  outside  wall  has  fallen  in  at  the  top,  while 

the  remaining  part  is  in  a  good   state   of  preservation. 

The  walls  were  constructed  of  large  stone,  and  laid  in 

Roman    cement.     On   the   inside  of  the    Coliseum    are 

many  arcades  or  galleries  extending  all  the  way  around 

it,  and  under  these   are  dens  where  wild   beasts   were 

kept  for  the  purpose  of  exhibiting  to  the  public.     During 

the  first  and  second   centuries,  public   exhibitions   were 
u 


162  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

given  here,  by  throwing  Christians  into  the  arena  of  this 
theatre  to  be  torn  to  pieces  by  wild  beasts.  History 
says  more  than  one  hundred  thousand  Christians  perished 
in  this  way,  and  from  this  cause  the  building  is  now 
dedicated  to  these  martyrs,  and  guarded  by  soldiers. 
Apartments  in  it  are  fitted  up  and  occupied  by  monks, 
and  by  them  public  worship  is  held  each  Sabbath. 

The  ancient  Romans  believed  the  Coliseum  would 
stand  forever,  and  caused  large  letters  to  be  placed  over 
its  main  entrance,  running  thus:  While  the  Coliseum 
STANDS,  Rome  will  stand.  When  the  Coliseum 
FALLS,  Rome  will  fall,  and  with  it  the  World. 

A  short  distance  from  the  Capitol,  is  an  open  square 
surrounded  by  buildings,  and  sunk  about  fifteen  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  surroundings.  This  is  the  site 
of  the  Curia  or  Senate  Chamber  where  Julius  Caesar 
was  assassinated  (B.  C.  44)  and  the  statue  of  Pompey, 
which  he  fell  against  after  receiving  twenty-six  stabs, 
is  now  to  be  seen  in  Spada  Palace.  All  that  now 
remains  of  that  fine  edifice  which  was  the  pride  of  the 
Roman  Republic,  is  its  marble  floor,  and  twenty-one 
marble  columns  in  a  broken  condition.  On  the  square  of 
the  Curia,  stands  the  tower  of  Trojan,  eighty  feet 
high,  constructed  of  bronze,  and  is  the  oldest  one  of  the 
kind  in  Europe. 

On  the  southern  slope  of  Capitoline  Hill,  among  a 
cluster  of  old  buildings,  is  still  to  be  seen  the  celebrated 
Terperian  Rock,  where  state  criminals  were  put  to  death 
by  throwing  them  off".  History  says  Cassius  was  hurled 
down  from  this  rock,  and  thus  met  his   death  in  the 


RUINS      OF      ANCIENT     KOME.  163 

presence  of  a  large  concourse  of  people  there  assembled. 

Close  by  the  post  office  in  the  business  part  of  modern 
Rome  is  located  the  Pantheon,  which  was  built  by 
Agrippa  (B.  C.  27),  and  dedicated  to  the  god  of  Nep- 
tune. This  great  relic  of  antiquity  is  now  one  of  the 
principal  churches  of  Rome,  having  passed  from  pagan 
to  Christian  form  of  worship,  without  changing  its 
general  appearance.  On  the  front  of  this  edifice  is  a 
wide  portico  supported  by  sixteen  marble  columns  of  fifty 
feet  in  length,  and  from  here  there  is  a  bronze  door 
twenty-eight  feet  high  opening  into  the  building.  The 
Pantheon  is  round,  forming  on  the  inside  a  great  rotunda 
one  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet  high,  with  a  large 
circular  opening  at  the  top,  which  is  its  only  means  of 
light  and  ventilation.  And  through  this  opening  the 
rain  has  continued  to  pour  down  on  its  marble  floor  for 
nearly  two  thousand  years.  The  inside  is  coated  with 
marble,  and  contains  many  altars,  paintings  and  statues. 
History  says  Pope  Boniface  TV.  collected  and  buried 
under  its  main  altar,  twenty-eight  wagon  loads  of  the 
bones  of  Christian  martyrs. 

On  descending  the  hill  from  the  capitol,  we  entered  the 
Grand  Forum,  Avhich  contains  the  ruins  of  the  temples  of 
Saturn,  Concordia,  and  that  of  the  twelve  gods  of  peace. 
In  the  midst  of  these  temples  stood  the  original  mile 
stone  erected  by  Julius  Caesar,  but  now  stands  in  the 
piazza  fronting  the  capitol.  This  stone,  marked  the 
center  of  Rome,  from  which  the  measurement  of  the 
whole  world  was  made.  This  Grand  Forum  at  one  time 
was  the  center  of  political  strife,  foreign  negotiations, 


164  BETOXD      THE      ATLANTIC. 

and  commercial  transactions,  and  from  it  went  forth 
on  different  occasions  the  shouts  of  victorious  armies. 
But  it  is  now  an  open  common,  a  pasture  for  goats, 
collection  of  iilth,  and  surrounded  by  the  habitations 
of  poor  ignorant  lazzaroni.  All  those  fine  temples  and 
l^alaces  which  were  the  pride  of  Rome,  as  well  as  the 
wonder  and  admh'ation  of  the  world  have  nearly 
disappeared.  Their  marble  floors  fifteen  feet  below 
the  street,  with  here  and  there  a  group  of  marble 
columns,  alone  remain  to  give  an  outline  of  their  former 
grandeur. 

From  the  Grand  Forum  we  visited  the  temples  of  Jupi- 
ter and  Juno,  and  following  along  the  Appian  Way,  we 
came  to  the  baths  of  Xero,  and  of  Titus,  as  well  as 
those  of  Caracalla,  all  of  which  are  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation. 

The  temple  of  ^Esculapius,  is  situated  on  an  island 
of  the  Tiber,  and  was  dedicated  to  the  god  of  Medicine 
(B.  C.  293).  This  temple  has  a  curious  history,  with 
Avhich  no  doubt  many  of  the  readers  are  familiar. 
Embassadors  were  sent  to  Epianrus  to  bring  the  statue 
of  its  god  ^sculapius  to  Rome,  in  order  to  relieve  the 
city  of  a  plague  which  it  was  then  suffering.  On  their 
return  with  the  statue,  it  was  discovered  that  a  serpent 
had  concealed  itself  in  the  ship;  this  they  believed  to 
be  ^sculapius  himself,  who  had -assumed  that  form  in 
order  to  deliver  the  city  over  to  their  enemies.  On  their 
arrival  at  Rome  the  serpent  left  the  ship,  and  hid  itself 
among  the  reeds  of  the  island.  And  in  order  to  appease 
his    wrath,    a    temple  was  erected  to  him,  the  remains 


RUIXS      OF      ANCIENT     ROME.  165 

of    which     are    still    to   be  seen,    and    pointed   out   to 
strangers. 

The  largest  and  most  important  of  the  seven  hills  on 
which  ancient  Rome  was  built,  is  Palatine,  where  once 
stood  the  palaces  of  the  Caesars.  Each  emperor  tried 
to  excel  his  predecessors  in  the  beauty  and  magnitude 
of  his  residence,  until  the  whole  hill  became  of  itself  a 
city  of  palaces,  and  the  marble  used  in  their  construction 
has  supplied  modern  Rome  for  centuries,  in  material  for 
building  her  fine  churches.  Palatine  Hiil  is  about  one 
mile  in  circumference,  and  part  of  the  way  is  guarded 
by  decayed  buildings  with  their  doors  and  windows  filled 
up  with  brick,  while  the  balance  of  the  way  is  enclosed 
by  a  high  wall.  We  had  a  great  desire  to  see  Palatine, 
but  entrance  through  these  walls  was  denied  us.  At 
last  we  found  a  lank,  greasy  looking  fellow  who  had 
charge  of  one  of  the  gates.  We  thought  to  bribe  him 
by  exhibiting  money  and  pointing  to  the  gate,  which 
had  the  desired  efiect.  As  the  great  iron  gate  turned 
on  its  hinges,  we  w^alked  in  considering  ourselves  fortu- 
nate in  seeing  the  palaces  of  the  Caesars,  a  privilege 
that  few  travelers  have  had.  But  great  was  our  surprise 
tofindbefore  us  a  string  of  decayed  buildings,  extending 
from  one  side  of  the  wall  to  the  other,  having  their  doors 
and  w^indows  filled  with  brick,  so  we  could  not  pass 
through  them,  and  instead  of  being  in  Palatine,  we  had 
only  got  into  a  goat  yard.  We  regarded  this  as  an 
outrageous  Yankee  trick,  and  turning  back  we  tried  to 
make  the  gate  keeper  refund  the  money.     But  he  only 


166  BEYO^^D      THE      ATLANTIC. 

laughed  at  us,  pointing  to  the  gate  then  to  his  money, 
giving  us  to  understand  that  it  Avas  a  fair  bargain,  and 
he  had  complied  with  his  part  of  it.  We  all  came  to 
the  conclusion  that  we  had  been  nicely  sold,  and 
continued  our  rambles  in  a  different  direction.     ♦ 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


NAPLES. 

The  city  of  Naples  contains  nearly  a  half  million  of 
inhabitants,  and  is  built  around  the  bay,  which  is  of  a 
circular  form.  The  ground  where  it  stands  rises  from 
the  water's  edace  until  it  reaches  the  hioli  bluffs  in  the 
rear,  forming  many  streets  which  are  not  accessible  for 
horses  and  carriages.  Its  streets  are  all  flagged  wnth 
lava  from  Mt.  Vesuvius,  cut  in  square  blocks  of  about 
sixteen  inches  each.  The  city  is  well  built  with  high 
houses,  many  of  which  are  of  the  modern  style  of 
architecture.  Some  of  the  houses  are  built  of  white 
stone,  others  of  lava,  and  coated  with  marble. 

Many  of  its  streets  are  of  good  width,  kept  clean,  and 
show  much  activity  in  business.  The  avenue  Toledo  is 
the  great  thoroughfare  of  Naples,  on  which  are  the  best 
stores  in  the  city,  and  the  crowd  of  people  here,  during 
business  hoiu-s,  is  equal  to  the  Strand  of  London,  or 
Broadway  New  York. 

On  the   west    side  of  the    city  fronting   the  bay,   is 


168  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

a  beautiful  park  containing  many  fountains  and  artificial 
lakes.  And  its  fine  walks  are  shaded  by  cypress  and 
palm  trees,  among  which  are  groups  of  marble  and 
bronze  statuary.  This  park  is  the  great  promenade  of 
the  city,  where  people  of  all  classes  collect  to  .enjoy  the 
cool  sea  breeze,  and  listen  to  the  music  from  the 
military  band. 

Most  of  the  city  is  well  supj^lied  with  water,  but  in 
that  part  of  it  covering  the  bluffs,  water  is  an  article  of 
trade,  to  be  bought  and  sold  same  as  other  commodities. 
Water  to  supply  this  part  of  the  city,  is  carried  in  cans 
on  the  backs  of  donkeys,  and  late  and  early  you  can 
hear  the  water  sellers  crying  with  a  loud  voice,  aqua 
eue,  aqua  eice. 

Much  has  been  written  about  the  bay  of  Naples. 
Cicero  in  his  prose,  and  Virgil  in  his  poems  have 
lavished  encomiums  upon  its  beauty,  and  I  believe  their 
pictures  were  not  overdraAvn.  Although  the  surround- 
ings have  changed,  the  water,  island^,  and  mountains, 
remain  the  same  as  they  were  nineteen  hundred  years 
ago,  in  the  days  of  the  great  statesman  and  jioet.  Cicero 
lived  and  died  on  the  east  bank  of  this  bay,  while  Virgil 
spent  most  of  his  days  on  its  western  shore,  where  his 
tomb  is  still  to  be  seen. 

A  person  visiting  Naples  will  see  many  strange  things, 
some  of  which  are  unpleasant,  and  if  he  is  not  good 
natured,  he  will  be  out  of  patience  much  of  the  time.  Go 
which  way  you  Avill,  hackmen  are  calling  on  you  to  ride, 
and  driving  their  hacks  in  your  way,  compelling  you  to 
walk  around  them.     Beggars   accost  you  at  every  turn 


NAPLES.  169 

with  their  dirty  hats  run  into  your  face,  while  flower 
girls  are  sticking  small  bouquets  into  the  button  holes  of 
your  coat,  in  order  to  make  a  surer  sale.  And  water 
venders,  with  a  can  on  their  back  and  a  mug  stuck  under 
your  nose,  sing  out  the  old  familiar  song  of  aqua  ene. 
Each  morning  the  streets  are  full  of  donkeys  loaded 
witli  cabbage  or  pumpkins  from  the  country,  or  returning 
with  manure  or  manufactured  articles,  and  occupying  as 
much  room  in  the  street  as  a  cart. 

Morning  and  evening,  large  flocks  of  goats  are  driven 
through  the  streets  in  order  to  supply  the  citizens  with 
milk,  and  at  each  house,  a  woman  comes  out  with  a  musj 
which  is  milked  full  by  the  vender.  If  the  parties 
being  supplied  with  milk  live  u]>  stairs,  which  is 
frequently  the  case,  in  the  fourth  or  fifth  story,  the 
milkman  taps  one  of  the  goats  on  the  head,  and  starts 
up  stairs  followed  by  the  goat,  and  the  milking  is  done 
in  the  presence  of  the  buyer,  otherwise  it  would  be  half 
water.  Even  then  it  is  not  uncommon  for  the  milkman 
to  have  in  his  sleeve  a  rubber  sack  filled  with  water, 
and  dilute  the  milk  before  the  eyes  of  the  buyers  without 
their  knowledge. 

The  cemetery  of  Naples  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in 
Europe.  Here  millions  of  dollars  have  been  exj)ended 
in  building  beautiful  marble  tombs  for  the  ]*ich,  while 
the  poor  are  thrown  into  a  vault,  and  no  tomb  stone 
marks  their  long  resting  place.  Near  the  center  of  this 
cemetery  is  a  high  wall  enclosing  a  square  which  is 
flagged  with  broad  stone,  and  contains  three  hundred 
and  sixty-six  vaults  for  the  reception  of  the  dead,  being 

V 


170  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

one  for  each  day  in  the  year.  When  a  poor  person  dies, 
the  authorities  are  notified,  and  a  wagon  sent  to  get  the 
remains  for  burial,  as  the  law  prohibits  a  corpse  being 
kept  oyer  night.  Each  night  as  soon  as  it  is  dark,  the 
dead  wagons  come  in  with  their  loads  of  dead  bodies, 
and  one  of  these  vaults  is  oj^ened  to  receive  them.  By 
the  light  of  a  single  lamp,  and  without  mourner  or  friend, 
the  burial  takes  place.  The  corpses  are  taken  out  of  the 
wagon  naked,  and  frequently  still  warm,  sometimes 
letting  the  head  or  feet  fall  on  the  flag  pavement,  which 
reminded  me  of  the  old  song  running  thus : 

Rattle  his  bones  over  the  stones, 

He  is  only  a  pauper  that  nobody  owns. 

Two  men  take  the  corpse,  doubling  it  up  throw  it 
into  the  vault,  and  as  it  strikes  the  bottom,  twenty-five 
feet  below,  the  sound  re-echoes  with  a  deathlike  knell, 
that  caused  the  cold  chills  to  run  over  me.  Forty  is 
said  to  be  the  average  number  received  daily,  and  after 
putting  these  into  the  vault,  quicklime  is  thrown  on  the 
remains  to  hasten  decomposition,  when  the  vault  is 
again  closed  up  to  be  opened  no  more  for  a  year. 

In  Kaples  no  one  can  be  buried  in  the  public  cemetery 
without  receiving  the  rites  of  the  church,  which  costs 
about  five  hundred  francs,  and  if  the  dead  is  not  worth 
that  amount,  they  go  into  the  public  vaults,  the  same  as 
beggars  of  the  city.  It  requires  nearly  one  hundred 
persons  to  perform  the  church  rites,  all  of  whom  draw 
'  pay  for  their  service.  Funeral  processions  are  seen  on 
the  street  every  day,  at  the  head  of  which  is  a  man 
carrying  a  long  pole,  capped  with  a  crucifix.  Next  comes 
a  company  of  priests  bare  headed,  with   the  crown  of 


NAPLES.  171 

their  heads  shaved,  which  is  the  oiistonu  After  these 
are  some  thirty  men  entirely  covered  with  Avhite 
sheets,  having  a  hole  cut  through  for  the  eyes, 
and  carrying  lighted  candles  of  five  or  six  feet  in  length. 
Following  these,  is  a  large  platform,  carried  by  eight 
men  who  are  concealed  by  its  gold  lace  drapery  which 
reaches  to  the  ground.  On  the  top  of  this  platform  i^: 
a  highly  ornamented  chest  containing  the  coffin.  Last 
of  all  is  a  company  of  men,  wearing  a  peculiar  kind 
of  uniform,  with  drawn  swords.  Mourners  and  friends 
never  accompany  these  processions,  all  being  left  to 
the  undertakers. 

One  of  the  largest  and  finest  churches  of  Naples  is 
called  St.  Genarios,  being  named  after  and  dedicated  to 
that  saint,  and  on  that  account  is  held  in  great  reverence 
by  the  Catholics.  This  church  is  coated  with  fancy 
colored  marble,  both  outside  and  in,  and  contains  many 
altars  which  are  ornamented  with  paintings,  statuary, 
crucifixes,  etc.  In  the  crypts  of  the  church,  under  the 
main  altar,  is  the  chapel  of  St.  Genarios  containing 
many  relics  which  relate  to  the  departed  saint.  Among 
these  is  a  glass  vessel  containing  the  ashes  of  his  blood, 
which  the  priests  say  liquifies  and  turns  into  pure  blood 
on  the  anniversary  of  his  martyrdom,  as  on  some  other 
great  occasions.  We  said  to  the  priest  w^ho  was 
explaining  to  us  these  wonderful  things,  that  we  would 
like  to  see  this  miracle  performed,  and  should  be  greatly 
disappointed  if  we  did  not  see  it,  as  we  had  come  for 
that  express  purpose.  To  which  the  priest  replied 
"•miracles   were   only  performed  by  the   Almighty,  and 


172  BEYOND      THE      ATLAXTIC. 

are  not  intenrled  to  gratify  the   idle    cariosity  of  sucb 
heretics  as  we  were." 

The  catacombs  of  Xaples  are  the  most  extensive  ones 
in  Europe,  and  their  connection  with  robbers,  as  well 
as  the  Roman  inquisition,  has  given  them  great  celebrity. 
The  entrance  to  these  catacombs  is  through  an  old 
convent  now  used  for  a  hospital.  After  paying  ad- 
mittance fees,  our  party  were  furnished  with  a  gruide 
and  lights  to  make  an  examination.  There  are  three 
main  entrances  to  these  underground  chambers,  which 
branch  off  into  numerous  colonades  or  galleries  of 
great  hight  and  width.  We  passed  up  and  down 
long  flights  of  steps,  into  family  vaults  and  large 
chambers  containing  various  devices  on  the  walls, 
showing  them  to  have  been  places  of  heathen  wor- 
ship. In  one  of  these  chambers,  is  a  round  marble 
post  where  heretics  were  executed.  Beyond  this,  is 
the  chamber  of  death,  containing  a  large  pit  where 
the  dead  bodies  were  thrown  during  the  great  plague 
in  Naples,  and  here  a  large  pile  of  skulls  is  still  to 
be  seen. 

In  the  suburb  of  Naples,  are  many  macaroni  factories 
where  this  article  is  made  for  shipment  to  other  countries. 
On  visiting  these  factories  we  saw  the  operatives  at 
work,  almost  in  a  state  of  nudity,  having  nothing  on  but 
a  pair  of  short  drawers.  Through  these  factories  and 
along  the  streets  the  macaroni  was  hung  on  poles  to  dry, 
where  the  dust  and  filth  of  the  street  are  blowing  con- 
stantly. After  seeing  the  manner  of  making  macaroni 
and  the  pranks  of  boys  while  it  is  drying  in  the  street,  I 


VISIT    TO    VESUVIUS.  173 

came  to  the  conclusion  not  to  indulge  any  more  in  this 
luxury. 

Notwithstanding  it  was  late  in  October,  we  saw*  many 
people  almost  naked,  while  at  work,  with  their  yellow 
skins  shining  hi  the  sunbeams,  which  makes  Naples  a 
good  place  in  which  to  study  the  human  figure. 

A  VISIT  TO  MT.   VESUVIUS. 

While  on  the  road  between  Rome  and  Naples,  and 
about  forty  miles  from  the  latter,  our  attention  was 
called  to  the  distant  view  of  Mt.  Vesuvius,  which  was 
sending  forth  volumns  of  volcanic  vapors  sometimes  puff- 
ing like  a  steam  engine,  producing  large  clouds  of  black 
smoke  which  would  shoot  high  into  the  air  at  each  pufi*. 
It  was  after  dark  when  we  arrived  in  Naples,  and  the 
rain  was  pouring  down  in  torrents.  Notwithstanding  the 
rain  we  found  the  streets  full  of  excited  people  watching 
the  great  volcano,  which  every  one  thought  was  about 
going  into  an  eruption.  Flames  of  fire  would  shoot  up 
at  intervals,  carrying  with  it  large  red  hot  stones,  and 
accompanied  by  a  rumbling  noise  like  distant  thunder. 
Although  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  nine  miles  from 
Naples,  the  light  from  it  was  such  as  to  illuminate  the 
whole  city. 

From  the  window  of  my  room  which  overlooked  the 
bay,  I  had  a  fine  view  of  Vesuvius,  and  watched  it  with 
great  interest  until  two  o'clock  in  the  morning.  About 
one  o'clock,  the  mountain  appeared  in  great  commotion, 
sending  forth  flames  of  fire  which  Avould  shoot  up  to  a 


174  bp:yond    the    Atlantic. 

great  hight  with  a  continuous  roaring  like  the  discharge 
of  heavy  artillery.  At  last  a  crater  opened  two  hundred 
feet  below  the  top  of  the  cone,  from  which  commenced 
a  flow  of  lava  that  run  for  two  miles  down  the  mountain 
and  appearing  like  a  continuous  sheet  of  liquid  fire. 

Two  days  after  the  opening  of  the  crater,   we  made 
arrangements    to    ascend    Vesuvius.      Leaving    Xaples 
early   in   the  morning,  we  took   a   carriage  for  Resina, 
three  miles  distant,  where   once  stood   the   city  of  Her- 
culaneum.     This    city    is    situated    at   the    foot   of  the 
mountain,    but    eight    miles    from    its    top.       Here    we 
procured  guides  and  horses  for  the  ascent,  and  at  once 
commenced  our  long,  tedious  journey  up  the  mountain. 
For  the  first  mile  our  road  ran  through   vineyards,  and 
fields  of  red  peppers,  the  products  of  which  are  used  in 
the  manufacture   of  macaroni.     After  passing  through 
these  vineyards  we   came  to  the  lava  thrown  out  in  the 
eruption  of    1858,  and    for. two    miles   traveled    on  it. 
This  lava   extends   from  the  top  of  the  mountain  to  the 
plain,  a  distance  of  six  miles,  destroying  in  its  course  a 
number  of  houses   and   vineyards,   and  in  places   it  is 
piled  up  in    wild  masses  fifty  or  sixty  feet   high.     After 
crossing    this    lava   flow,   we    came    to   the    hermitage, 
which    is   situated    on    a  high   ridge   where  vegetation 
grows,  being  out  of  danger  from  eruptions.     Here  is  an 
observatory  built  by  the  government  for  the  purpose   of 
collecting  scientific  information.     After  resting  a  while 
at  the  hermitage,    we    again    mounted  our  horses    and 
continued   on  our  journey;   the  guides  and  boys  accom- 
panying us  liolding  on  to  the  horse's  tails,  to  assist  them 


VISIT     TO     YESUTIITS.  175 

lip  the  inouiitain.  Our  appearance  was  extremely 
comical,  and  would  have  been  a  good  subject  for 
illustration  in  Harper's  Weekly. 

Six  miles  of  hard  traveling  brought  us  to  the  base  of 
the  cone,  and  two  miles  more  would  take  us  to  its  top, 
but  this  had  to  be  made  on  foot.  Close  by  us  was  the 
deposit  of  lava  as  it  came  down  the  mountain  in  torrents, 
and  piling  up  in  wild  masses,  still  red  hot.  Before  us 
was  the  cone  of  Vesuvius,  looking  like  a  great  black 
coal  pit,  with  a  smooth  surface,  but  a  steep  ascent, 
and  covered  all  over  with  lava  from  former  eruptions. 
Our  way  was  almost  straight  up  the  mountain,  over 
loose  pieces  of  lava,  which  would  sometimes  roll  under 
our  feet  sending  us  backwards,  and  cutting  our  hands 
on  the  sharp  crags.  For  two  hours  we  plodded  our  way 
upwards,  without  any  path,  the  old  one  having  been 
filled  up  by  the  present  flow  of  lava.  Most  of  the  way 
was  close  to  the  stream  of  hot  lava,  making  the  heat  very 
oppressive.  On  the  way  up  the  mountain  we  overtook 
a  party  of  Americans,  two  of  whom  were  about  to  give 
out,  although  assisted  by  guides  who  had  straps  over 
their  shoulders  to  which  the  tourists  were  holding  on. 

The  scenery  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Vesuvius  is  grand 
in  the  extreme,  and  which  a  person  after  seeing  never 
can  forget,  should  he  live  to  the  age  of  Methuselah. 
Four  thousand  feet  below  us,  spread  out  like  a  map, 
lies  the  beautiful  bay  of  Naples  whitened  by  the 
sails  of  many  nations.  Upon  its  surface,  appears  to 
float  its  many  picturesque  islands,  reflecting  their  image 
in    the    blue  Italian    sky.     To    the  right,  around  part 


176  BEYOXD      THE      ATLANTIC. 

of  its  circle  is  the  great  city  of  Naples,  with  its  half 
million  inhabitants,  and  its  many  fine  churches  and 
palaces  glittering  in  the  bright  October  sun.  To  tlie 
left,  along  its  eastern  shore,  lies  entombed  tlie  ill-fated 
cities  of  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum.  By  our  side  flows 
a  river  of  boiling  lava  one  liundred  feet  wide,  and  so 
red  that  it  dazzles  the  eyes  to  look  at,  while  two  hundred 
feet  above  us,  on  the  top  of  the  cone,  is  the  great  crater 
blowing  about  once  a  minute,  and  sending  forth  black 
smoke,  red  hot  stones,  with  flames  of  fire.  At  each 
blast  from  this  crater,  the  noise  was  so  great  as  to  shake 
the  mountain  to  its  very  center. 

Everything  appeared  to  favor  us.  When  we  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  mountain,  its  summit  was 
enveloped  in  a  cloud,  but  it  had  now  cleared  off  leaving 
the  wind  in  the  right  direction,  so  that  we  could  approach 
close  to  the  crater  without  being  afiected  by  its  heat, 
smoke,  or  sulphureous  gas.  With  a  long  pole,  I  took 
a  piece  of  boiling  lava  out  of  the  flow,  and  brought  it 
home  as  a  memento. 

Before  ascending  the  mountain,  I  felt  somewhat  timid, 
knowing  the  great  danger  attending  an  ascension  at  the 
commencement  of  an  eruption,  as  no  one  can  tell  at 
what  time  or  place  a  new  crater^  will  open.  But  when 
on  the  mountain  I  lost  all  fear,  being  carried  away  with 
enthusiasm,  which  for  the  time  being  overruled  my 
■judgment,  and  had  I  been  alone,  I  should  not  have 
lived  to  descend  the  mountain.  I  tried  to  prevail  on 
the  guide  to  take  me  up  to  the  flowing  crater,  but  he 
refused  to  go.     At   his  refusal  I  lost  all  patience,  and 


VISIT     TO      VESUVIUS.  177 

called  him  a  cowardly  lazzaroni,  and  started  up  alone. 
I  found  myself  within  twenty  feet  of  the  crater,  the 
heat  burning  my  hands  and  face,  but  before  I  had  time 
to  make  a  survey  of  its  contents,  the  guide  had  hold  of 
my  arm,  pulling  me  away.  And  it  was  well  he  did  so, 
for  at  that  moment  the  big  crater  above,  blew  forth 
showers  of  stone,  which  fell  on  the  spot  where  I  stood. 
In  my  anxiety  to  view  the  flowing  crater,  I  had  forgotten 
all  about  the  blowing  one,  and  had  placed  myself 
between  the  two.  My  guardian  said  afterwards,  if  I 
had  been  lost,  it  would  have  injured  his  reputation  as  a 
guide.  This  he  no  doubt  thought  of  more  consequence 
than  saving  my  life. 

The  flowing  crater  as  near  as  I  could  judge,  was 
about  one  hundred  feet  wide,  with  the  bank  on  the 
upper  side  of  it,  rising  about  twenty  feet,  while  on  the 
lower  side,  the  lava  was  flowing  off"  like  a  waterfall, 
boiling  and  hissing  as  it  went.  The  many  stories 
told  about  looking  down  into  the  crater,  and  its  being  a 
deep  vortex  of  liquid  fire,  is  without  any  foundation  in 
fact.  The  crater  when  flowing  is  always  full  of  lava, 
and  is  like  a  pot  boiling  over,  but  when  it  stops  flowing, 
the  lava  cools  in  it,  and  nothing  is  to  be  seen  of  it  after- 
wards, it  being  the  same  as  other  parts  of  the  mountain. 

The  big  crater  on  the  top  of  the  cone  is  always  open 

but  never  throws  out  any  lava,  and  when  the  mountain 

is  not  in  eruption  it  is  quiet,  occasionally  smoking  and 

hissing.     But  when   eruption  takes  place,  according  to 

scientific  observation,  the  whole  mountain  rises,  and  the 

crater  expands  until  it  becomes   a   great  vortex  of  an 
w 


178  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

immense  width,  and  probably  many  hundred  feet  in 
depth.  I  have  conversed  with  different  guides  about 
this  crater,  but  could  obtain  no  reliable  informa- 
tion ;  each  one  only  giving  his  opinion,  as  no  person 
can  approach  close  enough  to  make  any  observation. 
Even  when  the  mountain  is  not  in  eruption,  it  is  un- 
safe to  go  close  to  it.  Last  summer  an  English  sea 
captain  venturing  too  near  the  crater  among  the  ashes 
and  cinders  he  slipped  into  it  and  was  never  seen 
afterwards. 

We  had  all  seated  ourselves  on  the  lava,  some  dis- 
tance from  both  craters,  and  were  having  a  fine  social 
chat  with  our  new-made  acquaintances  who  were  all 
Americans,  when  the  big  crater  gave  one  of  its  terrific 
blows,  which  appeared  to  shake  the  mountain  to  its 
foundation,  and  at  the  same  time  two  heavy  raps  were 
felt  under  us.  We  all  jumped  to  our  feet  in  great 
alarm,  thinking  that  a  new  crater  was  about  to  open 
where  we  sat,  and  commenced  a  hasty  retreat  down  the 
mountain.  With  us  was  a  tall,  lank,  greasy  looking 
fellow,  who  had  carried  up  the  mountain  a  basket  of 
wine  and  eatables,  which  he  expected  to  sell  to  us  at 
extravagant  prices.  But  when  he  found  our  party 
about  to  leave  without  buying  his  ^^I'ovisions,  he  went 
into  a  terrible  way.  With  curious  jestures  and  loud 
talk  which  none  of  us  understood,  he  placed  himself 
in  our  way  and  tried  to  make  us  stop.  Our  guides  who 
expected  a  part  of  the  treat,  said  there  was  no  danger, 
as  thumping  in  that  way,  was  very  common.  But 
being  panic  struck,  there   was  no   stopping   us,  and  we 


VISIT    TO     VESUVIUS.  179 

continued  to  retreat  in  bad  order,  until  we  reached  the 
base  of  the  cone. 

It  was  long  after  dark  when  we  reached  Naples,  being 
much  fatigued  with  my  journey,  and  my  hands  bleeding 
in  many  places  from  being  cut  on  the  lava,  but  I  was 
highly  pleased  with  my  visit  to  the  great  volcano. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


HERCULANEUM. 

Three  miles  from  Naples,  and  under  the  flourishing 
town  of  Resina,  lies  entombed  the  ill-fated  city  of  Her- 
culaneum.  Many  will  recollect  reading  an  account  of 
the  destruction  of  this  city,  as  well  as  Pompeii,  given 
by  Pliny  the  younger,  who  was  an  eye  witness  to  it, 
and  his  account  is  the  only  written  one  on  record.  This 
account  says:  "  It  was  in  the  afternoon  of  August  the 
23d  A.  D.  79,  when  darkness  enveloped  the  bay  of 
Naples.  The  sea  receded  a  great  distance,  leaving 
the  ships  in  the  harbor  out  of  water,  then  came  back 
with  a  loud  roar,  smashing  to  pieces  the  shipping,  and 
washing  houses  ofl"  the  shore.  All  eyes  were  turned 
towards  Vesuvius,  which  was  sending  forth  flames  of 
fire,  and  roaring  with  such  terrific  force  as  to  drown 
all  other  noise.  And  from  it  came  forth  a  torrent  of 
lava  which  covered  up  the  city,  filling  the  bay  for  a 
long  way." 

For  near  seventeen  hundred  years  this  city  was  lost 


HERCULANEUM.  181 

from  sight;  even  tradition  failed  to  point  out  its  exact 
localion,  until  parties  at  Resina  discovered  its  ruins  by 
accident.  There  is  Init  a  small  portion  of  these  ruins 
open  for  inspection,  although  the  work  of  excavation 
has  been  going  on  for  a  long  tijue;  the  greater  portion 
of  it  has  been  filled  up  after  removing  its  treasures. 

On  oroinsr  into  the  office  of  Herculaneum,  which  is 
located  on  a  business  street  of  Resina,  we  bought 
tickets,  and  were  furnished  with  a  cc^^ide  and  liijhts  for  a 
descent  into  the  city  below.  After  going  down  two  long 
flights  of  steps  which  were  cut  out  of  lava  we  came  to  the 
upper  tier  of  seats  belonging  to  the  great  theatre.  From 
here  we  descended  to  the  stage,  w^hich  has  a  marble 
floor,  and  surrounded  by  beautiful  marble  columns.  Next 
we  went  into  the  dressing  room  and  examined  the  marble 
statues,  and  fresco  paintings  on  the  walls.  On  leaving 
the  dressing  room  we  passed  out  into  the  street  and 
examined  the  pavement,  which  is  composed  of  blocks  of 
lava  like  the  streets  of  Naples.  This  theatre  is  much 
larger  than  those  noAV  in  use,  and  was  a  building  of 
elegance  and  beauty.  It  is  now  eighty  feet  below  the 
streets  of  Resina,  being  covered  over  with  lava,  which 
is  harder  than  ordinary  rock. 

The  treasures  taken  out  of  Herculaneum  are  to  be  seen 
at  the  Naples  museum,  which  consist  of  statuary,  paint- 
ings, mosaic  work,  and  almost  everything  used  by  people 
at  the  present  day.  I  saw  steel  safes  much  like  those  now 
in  use,  as  well  as  nearly  all  kinds  of  implements  used  in 
mechanical  art.  Here  are  gold  rings  with  diamond  sets, 
and  various  kinds  of  jewelry  that  might   be   taken    for 


182  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

tlie  most  fashionaljle  patterns.  One  room  in  the  muse- 
um is  occupied  by  a  library  taken  from  the  ruins,  and 
consists  of  seventeen  hundred  volumes,  all  in  rolled 
manuscript,  a  few  of  which  are  unrolled  so  as  to  exhibit 
the  writing.  Here  are  to  be  seen  a  number  of  mummies 
wrapped  in  their  wearing  apparel  which  has  become 
petrified  by  the  chemical  effects  of  the  lava. 

There  are  seventeen  apartments  in  the  museum,  filled 
with  articles  taken  from  the  ruins,  and  contain  many 
remarkable  things.  Among  other  curiosities  is  a  small 
bronze  profile  or  medallion  of  St.  Paul,  with  his  name  in 
Latin,  San.  Paulus  A2)ostolus.  Since  my  return  home  I 
have  seen  photographs  of  this  medallion,  sold  through 
the  country,  and  purporting  to  be  a  genuine  likeness  of 
the  Apostle.  This  representation  is  not  improbable,  as 
it  is  well  known  that  the  destruction  of  this  city  was 
only  eleven  years  after  the  apostle's  death,  and  other 
things,  are  found  among  the  ruins  which  show  that 
Christians  were  living  in  the  city  at  the  time  of  its 
destruction. 


RUINS  OF    POMPEII. 

These  ruins  are  eight  miles  from  Naples,  one  and  a  half 
from  the  bay,  and  five  miles  from  the  cone  of  Vesuvius. 
On  the  morning  of  the  2 2d  of  October,  w^e  left  Naples 
in  a  carriage  to  visit  the  ruins  of  this  great  city  of 
antiquity.  The  road  leading  to  it  follows  around  the 
bay,  through  a  number  of  towns  which  join  each  other 
in  close  succession,  making  it  diflicult  to  tell  where  one 


RUINS    OF    POMPEII.  183 

ends  and  another  commences.  In  one  of  tliese  town;* 
named  Poelici,  we  saw  large  piles  of  lava,  fifty  feet  or 
more  in  bight,  and  the  streets  in  many  places  were  cut 
through  them. 

According  to  history  Pompeii  at  one  time  was  the 
greatest  commercial  city  of  southern  Italy,  carrying 
its  commerce  on  different  seas,  and  its  ships  were  seen 
in  evei-y  port ;  but  it  now  lies  entombed  sixty  or  seventy 
feet  under  ground,  where  it  lias  slumbered  for  near 
eighteen  hundred  years.  Although  excavations  have 
been  going  on  for  more  than  a  century,  only  about  one 
third  of  it  has  been  resurrected,  the  remaining  portion 
is  covered  with  earth,  on  which  are  vineyards  and 
cultivated  fields. 

Pompeii  was  a  seaport,  but  its  harbor  was  filled  up  at 
the  time  of  its  destruction,  and  now  are  cultivated  farms 
where  once  floated  merchant  ships.  Hercuhineum  was 
covei-ed  with  lava,  but  Pompeii  appears  to  have  been 
covered  with  dirt  which  was  blown  from  the  mountain. 

After  paying  the  usual  fees  at  the  gate  of  Pompeii, 
we  were  furnished  with  a  guide,  Avho  conducted  us 
through  various  parts  of  the  city,  and  pointed  out,  and 
explained  many  things  of  interest.  The  streets  are 
very  narrow,  paved  with  square  blocks  of  lava,  and  are 
much  worn  by  carriage  wheels.  Many  of  the  streets  are 
not  wide  enough  to  admit  of  carriages  passing  each 
other,  and  at  the  crossings,  are  placed  large  square 
blocks  of  stone  between  which  the  carriage  wheels  pass. 
Most  of  the  houses  are  built  with  lava,  and  coated  with 


18-i  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Stucco,  which  gives  them  the  appearance  of  marble. 
The  upper  part  of  the  buildings  appear  to  have  been 
thrown  down  at  the  destruction  of  the  city,  leaving  only 
the  first,  and  in  some  places  the  second  stories  standing. 
Our  o-uide  first  conducted  us  to  the  two  theatres,  then  to 
the  barracks  where  sixty-three  dead  bodies  wOre  found. 
Next  to  the  house  of  Marcus  Lucretius,  who  was  accord- 
ino-  to  history  a  Roman  senator,  and  a  man  of  great 
wealth.  This  is  the  house  so  often  referred  to  in  a  book 
entitled,  "  The  last  days  of  Pompeii.''  Fronting  the 
main  entrance  of  this  house,  is  lettering  on  the  side- 
walk made  by  inserting  pieces  of  colored  marble  forming 
the  name  and  title  of  the  occupant.  The  floors  of  this 
house  are  composed  of  marble,  and  the  walls  of 
many  of  its  rooms  are  covered  with  beautiful  fresco 
painting,  with  the  colors  as  bright  as  if  only  done  the 
day  before.  In  the  open  court  are  still  standing  many 
marble  statues,  and  the  remains  of  a  fountain  surrounded 
with  marble  columns,  showing  it  to  have  been  a  place 
of  great  splendor.  We  next  visited  the  Grand  Forum 
which  contains  the  ruins  of  the  temples  of  Fortune, 
Jupiter,  and  Venus,  also  the  Tribune,  Senate  Chamber, 
with  many  other  buildings  of  a  public  character.  The 
floors  of  these  buildings  are  made  of  white  marble,  and 
groups  of  marble  columns  in  a  broken  condition  are  still 
standing. 

Betw^een  the  Grand  Forum  and  the  gate  Isis,  are  the 
remains  of  a  heathen  temple,  which  contains  an  altar  in 
the   form   of  a    serpent.     Around  this  altar  are    many 


RUINS     OF    POMPEII.  185 

fresco  paintings  on  the  wall  representing  forms  of 
heathen  worship,  one  of  which  shows  a  priest  offering 
up  sacrifices  to  an  unknown  God. 

Many  of  the  houses  in  the  business  part  of  the  city 
have  signs  above  the  door  consisting  of  a  figure  of  the 
articles  made  or  sold  within.  Some  of  these  signs  are 
made  of  crockery,  while  others  are  cut  out  of  stone,  and 
mostly  contain  the  name  of  the  firm.  Here  are  houses 
of  ill-fame,  with  signs  above  the  doors,  and  the  walls  of 
the  principal  rooms  are  covered  with  obscene  fresco 
paintings  of  life  size.  In  the  celler  of  one  of  these  houses 
were  found  twenty-seven  skeletons ;  on  some  of  which 
were  gold  bracelets,  and  diamond  rings.  One  of  these 
skeletons  had  a  key  in  one  hand,  and  a  bag  of  gold  in 
the  other. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  city,  the  excavation  has  been 
carried  up  to  the  city  walls,  and  in  one  place  two 
hundred  yards  beyond  it.  Passing  out  at  the  Hercula- 
neum  gate  we  followed  along  the  Appian  Way,  by 
many  beautiful  monuments,  until  we  came  to  the  palace 
of  Diomedes.  This  is  a  building  of  great  beauty, 
excelling  in  magnitude  and  grandeur,  any  of  the  villas 
of  the  present  day.  In  the  open  court  of  this  villa  are 
the  remains  of  a  fountain  surrounded  by  marble  columns 
and  statues.  Xear  this  fountain  is  a  bath  house,  con- 
structed of  marble,  and  containing  many  articles  of 
furniture.  After  going  through  many  rooms  of  this 
palace,  we  went  into  the  wine  cellar  which  consists  ol 
four  wide  alcoves,  each  of  them  being  one  hundred 
feet   in   lencrth.     Here    are    many    earthen    vessels    for 


186  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

holding  wine,  some  of  which  are  capable  of  holding 
many  barrels.  On  the  fatal  night,  the  inmates  of  this 
palace,  seventeen  in  number,  took  refuge  in  this  cellar 
where  their  bodies  were  found  in  a  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion; five  of  whom  were  found  leaning  against  the  wall, 
and  the  alluvium  hardening  on  their  bodies, 'left  their 
impression  which  is  still  to  be  seen.  One  of  these 
bodies  was  that  of  a  boy,  whose  flaxen  hair  still  cleaves 
to  the  cemented  wall. 

Near  the  center  of  the  city  is  the  museum  of  Pompeii 
containing  many  curiosities  taken  from  the  ruins,  and 
consisting  of  almost  every  variety  of  articles  now  in  use. 
AH  kinds  of  metals  are  black,  and  vegetable  matter  looks 
like  charcoal.  Here  are  to  be  seen  wheat,  potatoes, 
cofiee,  figs,  apples,  olives,  and  loaves  of  bread  with  the 
baker's  name  stamped  on  them.  And  here  in  a  glass 
case  are  five  petrified  bodies,  one  of  which  is  of  a  woman 
with  a  gold  ring  on  one  finger. 

Our  guide  conducted  us  through  long  streets,  narrow 
alleys,  dark  and  ill-ventilated  buildings.  Then  into  fine 
palaces,  over  marble  floors,  among  beautiful  statuary, 
and  fresco  paintings.  We  almost  imagined  at  each 
turn,  that  the  proprietors  of  these  buildings  would  meet 
us  and  seek  redress  for  trespassing  on  their  domicil. 
But  in  these  buildings,  and  along  these  streets  no  human 
being  is  seen,  or  voice  heard ;  all  is  still  and  lonely. 
Eighteen  hundred  years  have  passed  away  since  the 
citizens  of  Pompeii  ceased  to  exist. 

After  spending  many  hours  in  rambling  through  the  city 
our  guide  told  us  that  his  time  was  up  and  he  could  go 


SOUTHERN    ITALY.  187 

no  farther.  We  asked  the  privilege  of  remaining  longer, 
to  continue  our  rambles  without  him ;  but  our  request 
was  denied,  by  saying  that  no  persons  are  allowed  to 
walk  the  streets  of  Pompeii,  unless  accompanied  by 
an  officer. 

When  our  sight  seeing  was  at  an  end  here,  we  left 
this  part  of  the  city,  taking  with  us  in  a  carriage  the 
guide,  to  show  us  the  amphitheatre,  which  is  situated  in 
the  south-west  part  of  the  city,  and  is  the  only  building 
excavated  in  that  direction.  This  building  is  not  so 
large  as  the  Coliseum  at  Rome,  but  nevertheless  is  a 
mammoth  structure,  built  in  a  circular  form,  and 
containing  thirty-live  tiers  of  stone  seats. 

Tradition  says,  on  the  day  of  the  destruction  of 
Pompeii,  many  thousand  people  were  collected  in  this 
ampitheatre  to  see  the  play,  and  were  thus  better  able  to 
make  their  escape,  than  from  the  more  crowded  parts  of 
the  city. 

SOUHERN  ITALY. 

At  Naples  we  went  aboard  of  a  steamship  for  Calabria 
and  Sicily,  stopping  at  a  number  of  places  along  the 
southern  coast  of  Italy.  The  country  in  the  south  part 
of  the  peninsula  is  mostly  mountainous  with  here  and 
there  a  fertile  plain.  Many  of  these  mountains  are 
barren  and  rocky  without  timber  or  vegetation  of  any 
kind,  while  on  the  more  fertile  slopes,  the  olive,  grape, 
and  fig,  are  cultivated.  Most  all  the  towns  along  the 
coast  are  without  harbors,  and  large  vessels  are  obliged 


188  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC, 

to  lay  at  anchor  some  distance  from  shore,  and  freight 
and  passengers  are  taken  back  and  forth  in  row  boats. 
When  the  sea  is  rough,  the  transit  is  made  with  great 
difficulty,  and  sometimes  is  impossible. 

The  people  here  appear  to  lack  the  enterprise  and 
intelligence  of  those  living  in  the  north  part  of  Italy. 
Many  of  them  are  brigands,  or  outlaws,  and  obtain  their 
living  by  robbery.  Forming  themselves  into  banditties, 
they  roam  through  the  country  in  search  of  spoil,  always 
accompained  by  a  priest,  who  absolves  them  from  the 
sin  of  robbery.  Part  of  this  country  is  unsafe  to  travel 
in.  A  short  time  ago  an  Englishman  was  captured  by 
these  brigands,  within  eight  miles  of  Naples  and  twenty 
thousand  dollars  were  paid  for  his  ransom.  The  gov- 
ernment is  making  an  effort  to  break  up  these  bands,  and 
a  large  military  force  is  employed  for  that  purpose.  At 
Salarno  eight  hundred  of  these  robbers  were  in  prison, 
and  others  were  brought  in  daily. 

In  the  poorer  parts  of  the  city,  as  well  as  country 
villages,  are  found  a  class  of  people  called  lazzaroni 
mostly  wearing  red  knit  caps,  dirty  greasy  roundabouts, 
and  exhibiting  bare  mahogany  colored  legs.  These 
people  appear  to  be  a  degraded  race,  possessing  but 
little  physical  or  mental  power,  and  are  lazy  and  indolent 
living  j^rincipally  on  fruit  and  macaroni.  Many  of 
whom  are  theives  or  beggars. 

The  Italians  appear  to  have  less  scruples  in  point  of 
honesty  than  other  people  in  Euroj^e.  With  a  stranger 
who  cannot  speak  their  language,  they  will  take  every 
advantage.     In  a    number    of  cases,  I  bought    railroad 


SOUTHERN      ITALY.  189 

tickets  above  the  established  fare,  leaving  a  few  francs 
for  the  agent  to  put  into  his  own  pocket.  But  on 
detecting  the  swindle,  and  going  back  to  the  ticket 
master,  he  would  disgorge.  This  they  will  do  readily 
when  caught. 

There  is  no  country  in  Europe,  where  a  person  can 
travel  so  cheap  as  Italy,  if  he  understands  Italian  usage  ; 
otherwise  he  will  find  it  most  expensive.  In  stopping 
at  a  hotel  the  price  of  room,  meals,  service,  candles  etc. 
should  be  agreed  on  beforehand,  otherwise  it  will  be 
double  price.  I  have  seen  shrewdness  among  hotel 
keepers  in  Italy,  which  cannot  be  surjjassed  by  the 
Yankees  of  America.  On  the  arrival  of  trains  or  steam- 
ers, cabs  loaded  with  travelers  will  go  around  to  different 
hotels,  until  they  can  suit  themselves  with  good  rooms 
and  cheap  fare.  The  landlord  or  clerk  will  show  the 
newly  arrived  guest  a  large  well  furnished  room  with  two 
or  more  beds,  and  the  price  reasonable.  But  before 
the  arrival  of  the  next  train,  the  landlord  tells  the 
occupant  that  a  number  of  guests  have  arrived,  which 
makes  it  necessary  to  have  his  double  room.  Conse- 
quently the  occupant  is  taken  to  a  small  room  in  the 
attic,  leaving  the  large  one  for  the  next  guest,  who  is 
tricked  the  same  as  his  predecessor. 

At  a  hotel  in  Messina  where  I  stopped,  I  noticed  on 
the  arrival  of  each  train  or  steamboat,  a  number  of  fine 
looking  girls,  wearing  short  green  jackets  and  white 
lace  caps,  standing  in  the  court  of  the  hotel.  These 
girls  would  make  themselves  very  agreeable  to  strangers, 
bowing    and    smiling    gracefully,    sometimes   opening 


190  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

the  door  of  cabs,  to  assist  the  guests  out,  and  their 
politeness  would  cause  many  to  stop,  who  intended  to 
seek  quarters  elsewhere.  In  all  my  travels  I  have  not 
met  with  a  man  so  old  or  so  much  devoted  to  grace,  as 
not  to  be  influenced  by  a  pretty  face,  and  if  undecided 
which  hotel  to  stop  at,  this  would  always  settle  the 
question. 

The  girls  seen  at  this  hotel  belonged  to  a  sewing 
establishment  on  the  adjoining  block,  and  were  emj^loyed 
by  the  landlord  to  visit  his  hotel  on  the  arrival  of  each 
train  and  steamboat. 


CHAPTER   XV. 


SICILY. 

This  island  is  mostly  mountainous,  with  many  fine 
valleys,  and  in  places  are  extensive  table-lands  on  the  tops 
of  mountains.  It  has  but  one  short  railroad,  and  but  few 
carriage  roads,  consequently  traveling  is  mostly  done 
on  the  backs  of  mules  or  donkeys,  and  like  southern 
Italy  is  full  of  brigands,  which  makes  it  unsafe  to  travel 
through.  Oranges  and  lemons  are  raised  extensively 
in  the  valleys,  while  olives,  grapes  and  figs,  are  grown 
among  the  mountains.  And  these  articles  constitute 
the  principal  exports  of  the  country. 

Messina  is  one  of  the  largest  cities  of  Sicily,  containing 
over  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  situated 
at  the  head  of  the  strait  bearing  the  same  name.  It  is 
well  built,  and  has  a  fine  harbor  with  a  circular  wharf. 
From  here  there  is  a  railroad  running  down  the  coast 
to  Catania,  sixty-four  miles  distant,  being  the  only  rail- 
road on  the  island.  Along  this  road  are  many  beautiful 
orange  and  lemon    groves,   where    fruit   is  grown    for 


192  BEYOND      THE      ATLxVNTIC. 

foreign  shipment.  Here  are  farms  fenced  with  cactus, 
which  grows  about  ten  feet  high.  Many  miles  of  this 
road  is  cut  through  lava  which  has  flowed  from  Mt. 
^Etna,  and  in  some  places  the  road  is  tunneled  under 
mountains  of  it.  While  on  this  road  the  cars  stopped 
at  a  small  town,  where  a  large  crowed  of  people  had 
collected,  all  of  whom  appeared  much  excited.  A 
number  of  guns  were  fired,  and  a  ball  from  one  of  them 
passed  through  the  window  close  to  my  head,  and 
knocked  the  hat  off"  a  man  sitting  next  to  me.  Not 
understanding  the  language,  we  could  not  learn  the 
cause  of  this  excitement. 


CATANIA. 

The  city  of  Catania  contains  seventy-five  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  ^tna, 
from  whose  eruption  it  has  been  partly  destroyed  a 
number  of  times.  The  city  has  many  wide  and  straight 
streets,  and  the  houses  are  built  with  lava,  many  of 
which  are  faced  with  marble  or  coated  with  stucco. 
Near  the  center  of  the  city  are  the  ruins  of  two  large 
theatres,  one  of  which  is  an  amphitheatre,  now  covered 
over  with  lava  sixty  feet  deep,  and  houses  built  thereon. 
Conducted  by  a  guide  with  lighted  torches,  we  examined 
these  ruins,  which  show  the  fine  mechanism  of  former 
ages.  We  passed  through  dark  arcades,  up  and  down 
steps,  along  the  seats  of  the  galleries,  on  the  stage,  and 
in  the  dressing  rooms.  Hei-e  are  many  fragments  of 
statues    and    columns,  all    of  which    are    composed    of 


CATANIA.  198 

Grecian  marble.  At  what  time  these  buildings  were  des- 
troyed is  not  known,  but  it  is  thought  to  have  been 
before  the  Christian  era. 

Here  in  Catania  as  well  as  other  cities  of  Sicily,  much 
of  the  trading  and  mechanical  work  is  done  in  the 
streets.  Blacksmiths,  shoemakers,  and  tailors,  as  well 
as  women  sewing  and  spinning  were  seen  at  work  along 
the  public  thoroughfares.  In  the  streets  and  public 
squares,  men  are  seen  with  a  table  and  writing  materials, 
whose  business  it  is  to  write  letters  for  people,  as  the 
mass  cannot  write,  consequently  have  to  depend  on 
these  scribes  to  carry  on  their  correspondence. 

Caravans  of  donkeys  loaded  with  wine  from  the 
country  are  seen  uii  the  streets  every  day  with  their  large 
demijohns  on  either  side  of  them.  As  they  pass  through 
the  gate  of  the  city,  the  custom  house  officers  take  out 
the  cork  of  each  of  these  demijohns,  and  smells  its 
contents  to  see  if  they  contain  whisky  or  brandy,  as 
these  articles  are  liable  for  duty. 

In  the  west  part  of  the  city  is  the  piazza  a  donne,  or 
wash  square,  where  the  women  of  the  city  collect  to  do 
their  washing.  Here  are  many  large  stone  tanks  through 
which  the  water  runs,  and  at  all  times  of  day  a  large 
collection  of  women  are  seen  washing,  many  of  whom 
are  standing  in  water  above  their  knees  with  their  clothes 
fastened  around  their  waist.  The  manner  of  exposing 
their  person  would  be  revolting  to  women  of  the  United 
States. 

Here  at  Catania,  Mt.  JEtna  is  in  plain  view,  and  can  be 
seen  from  its   base  to  the  top  of  its  cone,  and  appears 


194  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

close  by,  although  its  summit  is  sixteen  miles  distant. 
Part  way  up  its  slope  is  a  belt  of  forest  trees,  above 
which  is  a  bare  rocky  surface  covered  with  almost  perpet- 
ual snow.  A  large  portion  of  its  slope,  as  well  as  the 
plain  for  many  miles  below  is  covered  with  lava  piled  up 
in  wild  masses,  and  in  some  places  the  sea  for  a  long 
way  is  filled  with  it. 

At  Catania  we  boarded  a  steamer  for  Syracuse,  thirty- 
six  miles  down  the  coast,  and  saw  its  beautiful  circular 
bay  which  has  been  so  often  referred  to  by  ancient  writ- 
ers of  Greece  and  Rome.  The  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of 
Syracuse  cover  a  large  space  of  level  land,  on  which  are 
parts  of  temples,  and  palaces,  with  groups  of  marble 
columns  still  standing.  The  temples  of  Minerva  and 
that  of  Venus,  so  highly  spoken  of  by  Cicero  are  still  to 
be  seen  in  a  state  of  ruins. 

Modern  Syracuse  stands  close  by  the  ruined  city,  and 
contains  some  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is 
strongly  fortified. 

After  remaining  here  one  day,  viewing  the  ruins  of 
this  great  city  of  antiquity,  we  again  went  aboard  of  a 
steamer  bound  for  Malta. 

THE  MURDERER. 

A  short  time  before  my  arrival  in  Catania,  Sicily,  a 
murder  of  a  revolting  character  had  been  committed. 
A  man  by  the  name  of  George  S.  Mason  had  murdered 
his  mistress,  for  which  he  was  arrested,  convicted,  and 
condemned  to  die.     Mason  formerly  lived  in   Chicago, 


THE    MURDERER.  195 

where  he  was  engaged  m  commission  business,  and  by 
which  he  accumuhited  a  large  foitune.  But  getting 
into  trouble  through  some  of  his  business  transactions 
l»e  left  the  country  to  escape  criminal  prosecution.  In 
his  flight  he  was  accompanied  by  a  girl  of  respectable 
parentage,  from  a  neighboring  town.  This  young  and 
confiding  girl  under  the  promise  of  marriage,  left  her 
home,  forsaking  her  fond  parents  and  kind  friends,  to 
follow  the  fortune  of  a  man  who  was  unworthy  of  her 
confidence. 

Mason  and  his  pretended  wife,  traveled  over  a  year 
on  the  Continent,  spending  much  of  their  time  at  fash- 
ionable watering  places.  At  Baden  Baden  I  frequently 
saw  Mason  gambling,  and  he  continued  at  the  table  until 
he  was  a  ruined  man.  From  Baden  Baden  he  went 
to  Sicily  with  the  expectation  of  procuring  an  agency 
of  the  New  York  and  Italian  transportation  company 
which  had  commenced  about  that  time  to  run  a  line  of 
steamships,  partially  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  fruit 
from  Sicily.  Failing  in  this,  and  being  without  means  he 
became  desperate,  and  determined  to  rid  himself  of  his 
pretended  wife,  so  as  to  raise  money  on  her  jewelry  to 
carry  him  out  of  the  country.  And  believing  that  death 
to  her  would  be  better  than  abandonment  in  a  stransfe 
land,  he  committed  the  act  for  which  he  was  about  to 
suft'er. 

Back  of  Catania,  and  partway  up  the  eastern  slope  of 
Mt.  ^tna  is  a  cliif  of  rocks,  rising  almost  perpendicular 
for  several  hundred  feet  in  hight,  on  the  top  of  which 
is  a  table  rock  projecting  over  and  forming  a  precipice. 


196  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

From  this  point  the  view  of  the  surrounding  country  is 
very  fine,  overlooking  the  city  and  Mediterranean  sea 
for  many  miles.  On  the  right,  the  mountain  slope  is 
covered  with  pine  trees,  while  on  the  left,  the  mountain 
and  plain  below  are  covered  with  lava,  where  it  has 
been  accumulating  for  thousands  of  years. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon,  as  Mason  and  his  mistress 
stood  on  this  rock,  with  their  opera  glasses  viewing  the 
ships  far  out  at  sea,  when  he  caught  her  around  the 
waist  and  threw  her  ofi*.  Her  mangled  body  fell  from 
crag  to  crag  until  it  landed  lifeless  and  bleeding  upon 
the  rocks  below.  As  I  looked  on  the  stains  of  blood 
which  were  still  visible  on  the  rocks,  I  thought  of  her 
with  an  angelic  form,  beautiful  black  curls,  the  gayest 
of  the  gay  whom  I  had  seen  a  few  months  before  at 
Baden  Baden,  while  promenading  w^ith  her  reputed 
husband.  But  here  in  a  foreign  land  unknown,  and 
without  friends,  she  met  her  death  at  the  hand  of  him 
who  was  pledged  to  protect  her.  At  the  time  of 
the  murder  a  party  of  English  tourists  were  descending 
the  mountain,  and  hearing  the  girl  crying  for  help 
came  in  sight  as  she  was  hurled  from  the  rock.  For 
this  crime  Mason  was  arrested,  convicted  and  con- 
demned to  death. 

Four  days  previous  to  the  time  set  for  Mason's 
execution,  I  went  to  his  cell  and  learned  from  him 
many  of  the  facts  above  narrated.  I  found  him  standing 
by  a  small  grated  window,  with  his  hands  and  feet  in 
irons  and  chained  to  the  floor.  He  appeared  glad 
to  see  me,    and    while  speaking  of  his  fate,  the  tears 


MALTA,  197 

followed  each  other  in  close  succession  down  his  cheek. 

On  that  bright  October  morning  as  Mason  stood 
looking  through  the  grated  window  upon  the  shipping 
in  the  harbor,  and  the  smooth  sea,  beyond,  I  thought 
how  eagerly  he  must  wish  that  he  was  once  more 
innocent  and  free,  with  years  of  life  in  prospect,  instead 
of  the  four  short  days  that  lay  between  him  and  eternity. 
Notwithstanding  he  was  a  murderer  of  the  blackest  dye, 
I  could  not  help  sympathizing  with  him,  and  for  the 
time  being  almost  forgot  the  cold  brutality  of  the  crime 
and  only  thought  of  the  ruined  condition  of  the  man. 

I  left  Catania  the  next  day,  and  learned  nothing  more 
about  Mason,  but  in  all  probability  he  met  his  fate 
according  to  the  decree  of  court. 


MALTA. 

Midway  between  the  coast  of  Europe  and  Africa,  is 
situated  the  island  of  Malta,  a  place  of  great  historical 
celebrity.  This  island  is  fifteen  miles  long,  eight  miles 
wide,  and  elevated  high  above  the  sea.  It  is  barren 
and  rocky,  without  forests,  and  some  parts  of  it  without 
vegetation  of  any  kind.  Having  two  days  of  spare 
time  here,  we  hired  a  carriage  to  ride  over  the  island,  and 
visited  a  number  of  interesting  places.  On  high  land 
elevated  more  than  one  thousand  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  near  the  center  of  the  island  is  located  the  old  city 
of  Cita  Vecehia,  the  former  capital  of  Malta.  This  city 
contains  many  interesting  ruins,  among  which  are  the 
temples  of  Juno  and  Neptune,  and  near  them  are  extensive 


198  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

catacombs.  From  this  city  the  whole  of  the  island  is 
visible,  presenting  a  large  district  of  table-land  partly 
covered  with  rocks,  while  here  and  there  are  seen  green 
pastures,  orange  graves,  and  cultivated  gardens. 

On  the  north-west  coast  of  the  island,  is  a  small  inlet 
surrounded  by  rocky  bluifs,  and  called  Port  of  San 
Paulo.  Tradition  says  that  it  was  here  St.  Paul  landed 
after  his  shipwreck,  as  he  was  being  conveyed  a 
prisoner  to  Rome.  A  monument  is.  erected  here  to 
commemorate  that  event. 

Valetta,  the  principal  city  of  Malta  is  built  on  a  slope 
of  rocky  bluffs  with  one  street  rising  above  another. 
Many  of  these  streets  are  ascended  by  stone  steps,  and 
are  not  accessible  for  carriages.  The  city  is  built  of 
white  stone,  and  has  a  clean  attractive  appearance, 
containing  many  fine  churches,  some  of  which  were 
built  by  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  It  has  a  fine  harbor 
which  is  always  full  of  ships.  Sail  vessels  frequently 
make  into  this  harbor  to  avoid  storms  and  sea,  and 
steamers  stop  here  for  coal.  There  is  a  large  British 
garrison  here,  and  the  harbor  is  strongly  fortified,  being 
one  continuation  of  batteries  on  both  sides  of  the  harbor, 
some  of  which  are  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock. 

The  Maltese  are  large  robust  people  with  copper 
colored  skin,  and  their  dialect  is  peculiar  to  the  island, 
being  a  cross  between  the  Italian  and  Arabic.  I  saw 
in  the  harbor  a  Maltese  diver  who  was  exercising  his 
skill  for  money.  As  people  would  throw  a  shilling  into 
the  water,  he  would  dive  after  it,  sometimes  catching  it 
before  it  would  reach  the  bottom. 


STORM    ON    THE     MEDITERRANEAN.  199 


PERILS  AT  SEA. 

At  Malta  we  took  passage  on  a  French  mail  steamer 
for  Alexandria,  Egypt,  nine  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
distant.  On  the  second  day  out,  we  encountered  a 
,  terrible  storm  which  continued  for  two  days,  causing 
much  distress  and  sea  sickness  among  the  passengers. 
Those  on  deck  were  brought  down  into  the  cabin,  filling 
its  floor  with  sick  women  and  children,  while  the  sea 
at  intervals  would  break  over  the  ship  flooding  the 
cabin  with  water.  On  the  deck  of  the  steamer  were 
a  large  quantity  of  hogsheads  filled  with  American 
kerosene  oil,  some  of  which  broke  loose  from  their 
fastenings  and  tumbled  about  the  deck  over  the  fire.  If 
one  of  these  had  bursted,  nothing  could  have  saved  the 
steamer  from  burning,  when  all  on  board  would  have 
been  lost. 

Captain  Anderson  formerly  commander  of  the  Great 
Eastern,  also  of  Atlantic  cable  celebrity,  was  on 
board  of  this  ship  as  a  passenger.  He  remained  on 
deck  all  one  night,  assisting  in  the  managing  of  the 
vessel,  and  prevailed  on  the  captain  to  turn  her  oflP  the 
course,  which  in  all  probability  was  the  means  of  saving 
the  vessel,  as  well  as  the  lives  of  the  passengers.  Cap- 
tain Anderson  said  to  me  afterwards,  had  he ,  known 
that  there  was  kerosene  oil  on  deck,  he  would  not  have 
gone  aboard  of  her,  and  he  considered  it  almost  a 
miracle  that  she  was  not  lost. 

The    ship   being   overfreighted,    acted   badly  in    the 


200  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

rough  sea,  and  was  in  danger  of  being  swamped.  The 
captain  thought  it  best  to  make  for  the  island  of  Candia, 
which  lies  towards  the  Grecian  coast,  but  after  running 
in  that  direction  one  day,  the  wind  calmed  and  she  was 
again  headed  towards  Alexandria,  which  place  we 
reached  on  the  sixth  day.  The  passengers  expressed 
much  joy  at  the  sight  of  land,  and  many  of  them 
declared  that  they  would  not  go  to  sea  again  in  a 
steamer  that  carried  kerosene  oil  on  deck. 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Having  traveled  more  or  less  in  most  all  of  the 
principal  countries  of  Europe,  I  had  a  good  opportunity 
of  learning  something  of  the  customs  and  habits  of 
the  people.  In  the  better  sections  of  country,  people 
live  with  that  ease  andcomfort  seldom  enjoyed  by  people 
in  the  United  States.  The  country  being  already  made 
by  their  ancestors,  and  all  that  is  required  of  the  present 
generation  is  to  obtain  a  living,  leaving  the  remainder 
of  their  time  for  pleasure  seeking  and  enjoyment  of  life. 
With  the  better  class  there  is  an  air  of  politeness  and 
refinement  seldom  met  with  in  the  United  States.  In 
the  northern  countries  especially  in  Holland,  it  is  a 
universal  practice  for  men  to  take  off  their  hats  when 
meeting  a  friend,  and  a  failure  to  do  this  is  considered 
a  breach  of  good  manners.  In  Prussia  and  Italy  it  is 
common  for  men  to  kiss  each  other  when  meeting  or 
parting.     I  have  frequently  seen  men  with  long  shaggy 


GENERAL     REMARKS.  201 

beard  take  a  cigar  out  of  their  mouth  and  kiss  a  score 
or  more  of  their  mule  friends. 

Wine  and  beer  are  drank  extensively,  but  drunken 
persons  are  seldom  met  with.  During  eight  months 
travel  on  the  Continent,  I  saw  but  two  drunken  persons. 
If  drunkeness  exists  here,  it  is  kept  in-doors  and 
not  seen  in  public  places.  People  do  not  chew 
tobacco,  but  smoking  is  of  universal  practice,  and 
allowed  in  most  all  public  places,  such  as  dining  rooms, 
railroad  cars,  court  rooms,  etc.  In  most  of  the  first 
class  hotels  one  or  more  of  the  employees  understand 
English,  but  people  speaking  English  are  seldom  met 
with  in  the  rural  districts.  Many  of  the  educated 
people  of  the  difi"erent  countries  understand  French,  and 
if  a  tourist  can  speak  that  language  he  will  have  but 
little  trouble  in  any  part  of  the.  Continent. 

In  cities  on  the  British  Isles,  drunkeness,  poverty,  and 
low  sinks  of  vice,  meet  the  eye  of  a  tourist,  at  almost 
every  turn,  but  they  are  seldom  seen  in  cities  on  the 
Continent.  The  principal  cities  on  the  Continent 
employ  but  a  small  police  force,  still  life  and  property 
are  more  secure  than  elsewhere,  and  a  person  can  pass 
through  the  public  streets  without  fear  from  cut-throats 
or  pick-pockets. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


ALEXANDRIA. 

We  had  been  six  days  at  sea  while  making  a  passage 
from  Malta  to  Alexandria,  when  it  was  announced  at 
the  mast  head  that  land  was  in  sight.  Every  glass 
aboard  of  the  ship  was  brought  into  requisition,  when 
far  in  the  distance  could  be  seen  the  African  coast  rising 
only  a  few  feet  above  the  water.  Further  on  we  came 
in  view  of  the  city  of  Alexandria,  with  its  harbor  full  of 
ships,  presenting  a  forest  of  masts.  Among  these  ships 
were  seen  the  steam  fleets  of  the  British,  French,  Aus- 
trian, and  Turkish  navies. 

The  city  of  Alexandria  is  built  on  level  land,  which 
is  elevated  but  a  few  feet  above  the  Mediterranean  Sea, 
and  is  partly  surrounded  by  water.  It  contains  one 
hundred  and  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  about  four 
fifths  of  whom  are  Arabs.  Most  of  the  streets  are 
narrow,  not  exceeding  twelve  feet  in  width,  unpaved, 
without  sidewalks,  dirty  and  filthy.  Many  of  the 
streets    are  partly  filled    up    with    tradesmen's    stands, 


ALEXANDRIA.  203 

donkeys,  camels,  and  dogs  which  makes  it  difficult  to 
pass  through  them.  A  few  streets  only  are  wide  enough 
for  carriages  to  pass.  Along  these,  and  on  Frank 
Square  are  many  stores  kept  by  Europeans.  The  houses 
are  mostly  built  of  gray  stone,  arched  over  at  the  top 
and  coated  with  cement.  The  streets,  with  a  few 
exceptions,  are  without  lights,  and  most  of  the  houses 
have  no  windows  in  front,  to  throw  light  on  the  street, 
consequently  they  are  dark  and  gloomy  after  night. 

Water  to  supply  the  city  is  brought  from  the  Nile  by 
means  of  a  canal  forty  miles  in  length,  and  it  is  kept  in 
underground  reservoirs  which  were  built  more  than  two 
thousand  years  ago.  Instead  of  the  water  being  con- 
ducted into  various  parts  of  the  city,  by  means  of 
hydrant  pipes,  it  is  carried  through  the  streets  in  goat 
skins  on  the  backs  of  donkeys. 

Packs  of  large  hyena  like  dogs  that  have  no 
master,  and  governed  by  no  law  except  their  own 
brutal  instinct  are  seen  every  where  on  the  streets  acting 
as  public  scavengers,  and  are  all  the  while  barking  and 
snapping  at  people  as  they  pass.  At  night  these  dogs 
collect  on  the  public  squares,  and  make  night  hideous 
with  their  howling  and  fighting. 

Every  half  hour  during  the  night  a  call  is  made  by 
the  chief  policeman,  which  call  is  taken  up  by  other 
policemen  and  sounded  all  over  the  city.  Each  morn- 
ing at  daylight  watchmen  on  the  minarets  of  all  the 
principal  mosques,  with  a  loud  voice  call  on  the  people 
to  come  for  prayers. 

The   ancient   city    of    Alexandria    was    founded    by 


204:  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Alexander  the  Great  (B.  C.  330),  and  was  intended  for 
the  capital  of  his  vast  empire.  For  many  centuries  it 
was  the  great  center  of  wealth,  commerce,  and  literatm-e, 
and  the  whole  world  paid  it  homage.  Of  this  great 
city,  but  little  is  now  to  be  seen,  and  its  pomp  and 
grandeur  exists  only  in  the  history  of  the  past.  Unlike 
Rome  and  Syracuse,  where  ruined  temples  are  still  to 
be  seen,  and  are  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  the 
world.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  monumental  obelisks 
and  broken  columns  scattered  among  Arab  hovels  and 
palm  groves,  nothing  can  be  seen  above  ground  to  mark 
the  location  of  this  great  city  of  antiquity.  Where  work- 
men were  engaged  in  excavating  for  a  railroad,  fifteen 
feet  under  ground,  I  saw  pieces  of  beautiful  Corinthian 
columns  and  marble  house  floors,  and  for  some  ways  the 
foundation  of  this  railroad  has  been  cut  throuofh  base- 
ments  of  ruined  building-s. 


CTTRIOSITIES    OF    ALEXANDRIA. 

On  a  gravely  knoll  outside  of  the  city  limits,  stands 
Pompey's  Pillar,  which  is  considered  one  of  the  great 
curiosities  of  Egypt.  This  is  a  round  shaft  composed 
of  one  solid  piece  of  red  granite,  smooth  and  highly 
polished,  eighty-five  feet  long,  ajid  twenty-nine  feet  in 
circumference.  It  stands  on  a  square  base  or  pedestal 
twelve  feet  high,  making  the  whole  hight  of  the  shaft 
ninety-seven  feet.  But  little  is  known  about  the  history 
of  this  great  monument  of  antiquity.     Tradition  says 


CURIOSITIES     OF     ALEXANDRIA.  205 

that  it  stands  on  the  spot  where  Pompey  was  beheaded, 
and  was  erected  to  commemorate  that  event.  But 
writers  on  antiquity  discard  this  tradition,  but  fail  to 
give  the  world  any  satisfactory  history  of  it. 

Within  the  city  limits  and  close  to  the  old  harbor  is 
Cleopatra's  Needle,  another  relic  of  past  ages.  This  is 
a  square  shaft  of  red  granite,  eight  feet  square,  and 
seventy-one  feet  high,  tapering  towards  the  top  and  is 
covered  with  Egyptian  hieroglyphics.  Close  by  this 
shaft  is  another  obelisk  lying  down,  and  partly  covered 
up  with  sand.  Many  years  ago  the  authorities  of 
Egypt  gave  this  obelisk  to  the  British  government,  but 
it  probably  will  never  be  removed  to  England. 

On  a  projecting  point  of  land  extending  into  the  sea 
near  the  light  house,  once  stood  the  great  Egyptian 
Pharos  which  is  spoken  of  in  the  ancient  history,  as 
one  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world.  This  structure 
consisted  of  a  tower  built  of  white  marble  and  so  high 
that  the  beacon  lights  on  its  top  could  be  seen  one 
hundred  miles  at  sea.  History  says  this  tower  was 
erected  by  order  of  King  Ptolemy  three  hundred  years 
before  Christ.  The  King  caused  his  name  to  be 
engraved  on  it  as  savior  gods,  the  great  benefactor 
of  mariners,  and  by  it  he  intended  his  memory  should  be 
perpetuated  to  all  time.  But  the  builder  wishing  to 
secure  the  glory  to  himself,  engraved  his  own  name  on 
the  stone,  then  covering  it  over  with  stucco  on  which 
appeared  the  name  of  the  King.  In  time  the  stucco 
fell  oif  and  with  it  the  King's  name,  leaving  the  builder's 
in  its  place.     We  visited   the  site    of  this  great  tower 


206  BEYOXD      THE      ATLAXTIC. 

and  saw  pieces    of    its   ruins  scattered    over  the    stony- 
knoll  and  along  the  beach  of  the  sea. 

A  short  distance  below  the  commercial  part  of  the 
city  overlooking  the  harbor,  is  located  the  royal  palace, 
and  close  by  it  is  the  royal  harem.  These,  buildings 
show  much  skill  in  their  construction,  combining 
European  with  Oriental  style  of  work.  The  Grand 
Pacha  or  King  of  Egypt  lives  in  Cairo,  where  he  has  a 
palace  and  harem,  but  these  buildings  are  for  his  enter- 
tainment when  he  visits  Alexandria.  We  were  not 
allowed  to  enter  the  harem,  or  harem  grounds,  and 
consequently  know  but  little  about  its  internal  arrange- 
ments, but  I  understand  that  it  contains  about  fifty 
women  who  are  under  the  guardianship  of  a  eunuch. 
These  women  are  from  different  countries  and  of  various 
colors,  from  the  fair  Circasian  girl,  to  the  coal  black 
Nubian,  with  a  few  European  women,  and  two  Yankee 
girls  from  the  United  States. 

ROAD  TO    CAIRO. 

Our  stay  in  Alexandria  was  a  short  one,  and  early  in 
the  morning  of  November  the  sixth,  we  were  on  the 
cars  for   Cairo,  one  hundred   and  thirty   miles   distant. 

The  railroad  which  connects  these  two  great  Egyptian 
cities,  was  built  some  years  ago  by  the  English  East 
India  Company.  The  embankment  on  which  the  road 
is  laid,  is  raised  high  above  the  floods  of  the  Nile,  and 
the  management  of  the  road  is  much  the  same  as  those 
in  Europe,  having  three  diftereut  class  cars. 


ROAD      TO      CAIRO.  207 

The  ride  through  the  country  was  a  delightful  one, 
being  over  a  level  plain  by  the  side  of  fields  of  waving 
grain,  and  through  green  pastures  on  which  were  feed- 
ing large  herds  of  sheep,  goats  and  buffaloes.  Although 
it  was  November,  farmers  were  engaged  in  cutting  wheat 
and  rice,  while  the  corn  crop  was  not  more  than  half 
matured.  In  a  number  of  places  I  saw  people  cutting 
grain  where  the  water  was  standing  two  inches  deep  all 
over  the  field,  not  yet  having  evaporated  from  the  late 
inundation. 

After  a  few  hours  ride  we  came  to  the  Nile,  the  sight 
of  which  created  among  the  passengers  a  great  enthusi- 
asm, many  of  whom  on  looking  out  of  the  car  windows 
would  sing  out:  The  Nile,  The  Nile. 

This  great  river  of  Africa  has  long  been  a  mystery  to  the 
world,  and  its  waters  in  ancient  times  was  considered  a 
specific  for  all  maledies.  For  more  than  one  thousand 
miles  of  its  lensrth  it  receives  not  a  sinsfle  tributarv,  but 
rolls  on  through  this  great  valley,  by  its  seven  mouths 
emjitying  its  turbid  waters  into  the  clear  blue  sea.  A 
river  which  was  worshiped  by  the  ancient  Egyptians,  and 
whose  great  size  astonished  the  Greeks  and  Romans, 
and  whose  overflow  was  to  them  a  profound  mystery. 

The  railroad  crosses  on  stone  bridges,  four  diiFerent 
branches  of  the  Nile,  being  below  the  i>oint  where  it 
separates  to  form  its  numerous  mouths.  While  on  the 
road,  but  twenty-two  miles  away,  we  obtained  our  first 
view  of  the  pyramids,  which  looked  at  that  great  distance 
like  a  cluster  of  hay  stacks.  At  last  Ave  came  in  sight 
of    Grand    Cairo,    with    its    eleven    hundred   minarets 


208  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

glittering  in  the  bright  afternoon  sun.  On  arriving  at 
the  de]3ot  we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by  a  motly 
mass  of  human  beings  consisting  of  beggars,  dragomans, 
donkey  boys,  and  dancing  girls.  But  crowding  our  way 
through  these  human  leeches,  we  found  quarters  in  the 
Grand  Hotel  d'Europe. 


NILE  VALLEY. 

The  valley  of  the  N^ile  in  places  is  fifty  or  sixty  miles 
in  width,  and  is  a  rich  level  plain  elevated  but  a  few 
feet  above  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  At  Cairo  the  valley 
is  only  eight  miles  wide,  but  above  and  below,  it  spreads 
out  into  a  vast  plain.  The  desert  lying  on  either  side 
of  the  valley  is  a  barren  elevation  consisting  of  hills  and 
dales  with  plains  of  sand  and  hills  of  rock  without  water, 
grass,  or  vegetation  of  any  kind  except  here  and  there  a 
bunch  of  willows  about  two  feet  high. 

The  Nile  at  its  annual  floods  rises  about  thirty  feet 
overflowing  the  country  and  causing  this  vast  plain  to 
look  like  a  great  inland  sea,  dotted  over  with  towns  and 
villages.  The  inundation  generally  takes  place  early  in 
July,  and  subsides  by  the  last  of  August.  The  river 
Nile  has  low  banks,  an  even  current,  and  its  waters 
are  always  muddy,  having  a  dark  chocolate  color,  but 
when  it  settles,  it  is  clear  and  sweet,  and  from  it  the 
whole  country  receives  a  supply  of  water  for  drinking, 
washing,  etc. 

Canals  are  made  everywhere  through  the  Nile  valley, 
carrying   water  on  to  every  farm,  from  which  the  land 


NILE     VALLEY.  209 

is  irrigated.  At  the  annual  rise  of  the  Nile,  these 
canals  fill  with  water,  which  remains  all  the  year,  sup- 
plying the  inhabitants  with  the  necessary  fluid.  If  the 
floods  are  not  sufficiently  high  to  wet  the  more  elevated 
portions  of  the  land,  the  deficiency  is  supplied  by  artifi- 
cial means,  which  is  mostly  done  by  men  raising  water 
with  swinging  buckets.  Rain  seldom  foils  in  Egypt 
and  unless  the  land  is  watered,  it  bakes  and  is  unpro- 
ductive. In  this  great  valley  there  are  neither  springs, 
rivulets,  brooks,  nor  running  water  of  any  kind,  except 
the  Nile.  Where  wells  have  been  dug,  the  water  is 
found  to  be  so  impregnated  with  saline  matter  as  to 
render  it  worthless  even  for  steam  purposes. 

The  soil  consists  of  a  rich  black  loam  producing  fine 
crops  of  various  kinds  of  grain,  such  as  wheat,  corn, 
rice,  cotton,  and  sugar  cane.  Corn  is  planted  the  last 
of  August,  and  matures  in  December.  Wheat  is  sown 
in  November,  and  harvested  in  March.  Two  crops  of 
wheat  a  year  are  frequently  raised  off"  the  same  land ; 
the  last  crop  is  harvested  in  the  fall. 

Within  the  last  few  years  a  number  of  English 
capitalists  have  been  engaged  in  the  culture  of  cotton 
and  in  many  of  the  towns  along  the  Nile,  the  smoke  can 
be  seen  rising  from  their  steam  cotton  gins. 

A* 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


GRAND  CAIRO. 

The  city  of  Cairo,  the  capital  of  Lower  Egypt,  is 
situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Nile,  and  one  hundred 
and  forty  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  said  to  contain 
about  four  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  most  of  whom 
are  Arabs  and  Mamalukes.  Much  of  its  commerce  is 
carried  on  by  Greeks,  Turks  and  Jews,  with  occasional 
English  and  French  merchants.  At  a  distance  the  city 
has  a  very  imposing  appearance,  with  its  four  hundred 
mosques,  each  of  which  has  from  two  to  six  minarets, 
or  spires,  causing  it  to  look  like  a  city  of  churches.  A 
few  streets  in  Cairo  are  wide  enough  to  admit  carriages 
one  of  which  called  Muskay,  is  thirty-two  feet  wide,  and 
along  it  are  the  principal  bazars  and  wholesale  stores 
of  the  city.  The  buildings  on  this  street  are  high  and  in 
places  poles  are  placed  on  their  tops  reaching  across  the 
street,  and  supporting  a  covering  of  reeds,  so  as  to 
protect  it  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun. 

The  streets  of  Cairo  will  not  averasce  more  than  nine  feet 


GRAND      CAIRO.  211 

in  width,  and  are  so  crooked  and  winding  that  a  j^ersou 
cannot  see  more  than  ten  rods  along  them.  The  houses 
are  constructed  of  white  stone,  and  built  projecting 
over  the  street,  forming  dark  arcades  where  the  sun 
never  shines.  Windows  of  the  upper  stories  are  mostly 
ornamented  with  latticework,  projectingover  the  street, 
and  in  some  places  the  windows  of  the  opposite  house 
.•ire  so  close  that  a  person  can  step  from  one  building  to 
another  across  the  narrow  street.  The  houses  are  flat 
on  the  top,  being  covered  with  stone  and  cement,  and 
on  the  roofs  of  some  of  them  are  summer  houses,  play 
grounds  for  cliildren,  etc.  In  many  places  the  streets 
are  arched  over  with  massive  stone  walls,  and  houses 
built  thereon.  Gates  are  placed  at  each  end  of  many 
of  the  streets,  which  are  locked  at  night.  In  these 
streets  are  stores,  or  trading  posts  and  where  people  eat 
and  sleep,  same  as  in  houses. 

On  a  high  knoll  overlooking  the  city,  is  located  the 
Grand  Mosque,  which  for  beauty  and  magnitude  excels 
all  other  buildings  in  the  city.  Before  entering  this 
mosque  we  were  provided  with  slippers,  so  that  our 
boots  might  not  deiile  the  holy  place.  The  floor  is 
covered  all  over  with  beautiful  brussels  carpet,  but 
contains  no  seats,  as  the  form  of  Mohammedan  worship 
will  not  admit  of  any.  The  day  of  our  visit  to  this 
mosque,  was  the  Mohammedan  Sabbath,  (Friday  with 
us),  which  gave  us  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
manner  of  worship.  During  preaching  the  congregation 
were  seated  on  the  floor,  with  their  feet  under  them  like 
a  tailor  on  his  bench.     After  preaching  they  stood  some 


212  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

time  in  prayer  with  their  hands  raised  above  their  heads 
and  their  faces  turned  in  the  direction  of  Mecca.  Then 
they  would  kneel  down,  lean  forward,  and  kiss  the  floor. 
There  were  no  women  in  the  mosque,  and  I  am  informed 
that  they  never  attend  public  worship. 

After  spending  some  time  in  the  mosque  we  visited 
the  Royal  Palace  which  is  close  by,  and  walked  through 
the  richly  furnished  apartments  of  the  Grand  Pacha. 
We  next  went  into  the  court  of  the  citadel  which  is 
memorable  for  the  murder  of  the  Mamaluke  Beys,  in  the 
year  1811.  We  also  examined  the  old  breach  in  the 
outer  wall,  where  Emin  Bey  jumped  his  horse  over,  and 
thus  made  his  escape,  being  the  only  one  out  of  more 
than  four  hundred  victims.  ^ 

On  the  bank  of  the  Kile,  some  ways  from  the  crowded 
part  of  the  city,  is  located  the  grand  Egyptian  museum 
containing  many  curiosities  taken  from  the  pyramids, 
with  a  great  variety  of  strange  things  which  belonged  to 
the  ancient  Egyptians.  Near  this  museum  is  still  to  be 
seen  the  ruins  of  an  old  theatre,  where  the  Turkish 
Sultan,  Selin  I.,  in  the  year  1517,  caused  thirty  thousand 
prisoners  to  be  beheaded  in  his  presence,  and  their 
bodies  thrown  into  the  river. 

Outside  of  the  city  limits  and  in  a  beautiful  palm 
grove,  was  being  held  at  the  time  of  our  visit  an 
Egyptian  fair,  which  is  conducted  on  the  same  plan  as 
the  Dutch  fairs  of  Europe.  The  amusements  at  this  fair 
were  of  a  low  order,  some  of  which  were  on  the  juglar 
plan  and  were  disgusting  to  look  at.  Here  was  an  old 
Arab  with  two  fat  dausrhters  and    two  trained  bears. 


STRANGE    SIGHTS    IN    CAIRO.  213 

The  girls  were  dressed  to  imitate  the  bears  and  the 
bears  to  imitate  the  girls.  When  they  came  on  the 
stage  to  dance  their  manner  of  jumping  up  and  down 
and  rollin2  over  each  other  was  such  as  to  make  it 
difficult  to  distinguish  the  girls  from  the  bears. 

In  another  part  of  the  fair  ground  was  a  Nubian 
ne^ro,  exhibitino^  a  bigr  snake,  a  real  live  African  boa 
constrictor  of  twenty-five  feet  in  length.  With  this 
snake  he  would  perform  many  strange  feats  which  were 
frightful  to  behold.  One  of  which  was  pulling  open  its 
mouth  with  his  hands,  to  exhibit  its  teeth  and  its  long 
forked  tono-ue. 


STRANGE  SIGHTS  IN  CAIRO. 


The  streets  of  Cairo  present  a  singular  appearance ; 
no  omnibuses,  wagons,  or  drays  are  seen,  but  a  motly 
mass  of  human  beings,  crowding  their  way  through  the 
narrow  alleys  some  on  foot,  others  on  donkeys.  Men 
with  long  gowns  wrapped  around  their  bodies,  and 
long  Turkish  pipes  in  their  months,  are  seen  cantering 
their  donkeys  to  and  fro.  Women  with  masks  over 
their  faces,  riding  astride,  followed  by  a  boy  carrying  a 
stick  to  guide  and  whip  the  donkey,  are  seen  crowding 
their  way  through  the  narrow  streets.  At  almost  every 
turn  of  the  street  we  encountered  caravans  of  camels 
loaded  with  building  materials,  produce,  or  boxes  of 
dry  goods.  On  the  great  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  we 
would  occasionally  meet  a  carriage  containing  a  man 
of  distinction,  or  women    of  the   royal    harem,  always 


21-i         BEYOND   THE   AT  LAX  TIC. 

preceded  by  a  footman  to  clear  the  way.  These  foot- 
men are  dressed  in  a  white  frock,  with  a  red  sash  over 
their  shoulders,  and  in  their  hands  they  carry  a  long 
pointed  staff,  like  a  barber's  pole.  This  staff  they 
flourish  over  their  heads,  and  yell  at  the  top  of  their 
voices,  notifying  people  to  get  out  of  the  street,  so  the 
carriage  can  pass. 

Water  to  supply  the  city  is  carried  through  the  streets 
in  goats  skins,  which  are  tanned  with  the  hair  oii,  and 
strings  tied  around  the  neck  and  legs  to  make  them 
water-tight.  This  kind  of  water  cask  is  used  in  all 
the  cities  of  the  Orient,  and  when  lashed  on  to  the 
back  of  a  donkey,  looks  like  a  dead  hog. 

Funeral  processions  are  frequently  seen  on  the  streets, 
and  their  doleful  funeral  dirge  can  be  heard  above  all  the 
other  noise  of  the  great  metropolis.  These  processions 
are  always  preceded  by  two  men  carrying  the  coffin  on 
their  shoulders,  and  ai-e  followed  by  a  retinue  of  priests 
chanting  at  the  top  of  their  voices.  Next  comes  a 
company  of  weeping  women,  who  are  covered  up  with 
long  black  robes,  and  their  weeping  and  wailing  exceeds 
anything  that  I  have  ever  heard.  These  women  are 
employed  as  public  mourners,  but  their  cries  and  lamen- 
tations appear  genuine.  If  the  deceased  was  rich,  a 
camel  goes  before  the  procession,  loaded  with  bread 
and  wine,  to  be  distributed  among  the  attendants  at  the 
grave. 

Almost  every  day  we  met  marriage  processions, 
attended  with  loud  shouting,  clapping  of  hands,  and 
bands  of  music.     The  bride  on  her  way  to  the  place  of 


HOWLING    DERVISHES.  2 15 

marriage  is  mounted  on  a  camel,  and  entirely  covered 
np  with  a  large  silk  robe.  Four  men  carry  over  her 
head,  (suspended  on  long  poles),  a  canopy  made  of 
silk,  and  ornamented  with  gold  lace.  Accompaning 
these  processions  are  .men  engaged  in  all  kinds  of 
gymnastic  feats,  and  lighting  sham  battles  to  amuse  the 
people.  With  these  processions  are  also  trooj^s  of 
singing  and  dancing  girls,  who  are  beating  on  drums, 
tin  pans,  and  playing  on  various  kinds  of  musical 
instruments. 

Many  of  the  dry  goods  stores  are  not  more  than  eight 
feet  square,  and  all  open  to  the  street.  The  merchant 
is  in  the  inside  of  his  store,  while  his  customers  are  on 
the  outside.  Here  you  will  see  a  blacksmith  at  work 
sitting  cross-legged  on  the  floor  with  his  anvil  before 
him,  and  his  bellows  by  his  side.  Next  a  money 
changer,  out  in  the  street  with  his  safe  by  his  side,  and 
scales  to  weigh  the  coin.  Then  a  scribe  with  a  stand 
on  which  are  writing  materials,  who  is  always  ready  to 
exercise  his  skill  in  writing  letters  or  contracts. 


HOWLING  DERVISHES. 

Conducted  by  a  dragoman  carrying  a  lantern,  we  left 
our  hotel  at  ten  o'clock  at  night,  to  witness  the  wonder- 
ful performance  of  these  religious  fanatics.  On  our 
way  we  were  obliged  to  pass  through  a  number  of  streets 
which  are  always  locked  at  night,  but  by  giving  the 
gate  tender  plenty  of  backsheesh,  we  were  allowed  to 
pass.      The  streets  through   which  we  passed  are  not 


216  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

more  than  eight  feet  wide,  and  partly  filled  up  with 
salesmen's  stands  where  goods  of  various  kinds  were 
lying  around  on  tables  and  shelves  unguarded.  Many 
people  were  asleep  in  the  streets,  having  retired  for 
the  night,  and  occasionally  we  would  tramp  on  their 
toes,  or  stumble  against  their  heads,  which  would  bring 
from  the  sleeper  a  hoarse  growl. 

On  arriving  at  the  place  of  howling  Dervishes,  which 
is  in  the  rear  of  the  great  Dervishes  mosque.  We 
were  admitted  into  an  outer  court  of  a  large  hall,  by 
paying  two  shillings  each.  The  main  part  of  this  hall  was 
filled  with  Arabs,  who  were  almost  in  a  state  of  nudity. 
Their  long  shaggy  beards,  and  smoothly  shaved  heads 
caused  them  to  look  like  imps  from  the  infernal  region. 
The  exercise  for  the  evening  had  already  commenced  and 
the  worshippers  would  kneel  down  to  kiss  the  floor,  then 
standing  up  with  their  hands  raised  high  above  their 
heads,  they  would  yell  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  Allah, 
Allah.  After  going  through  with  this  exercise,  the 
dancing  and  howling  commenced,  and  exceeded  anything 
of  the  kind  that  I  had  ever  seen  or  heard  before.  The 
performers  would  jump  up  and  down  in  quick  succession 
with  their  mouths  open,  tongues  hanging  out,  and  utter- 
ing the  most  unearthly  yells,  worse  than  a  bedlam  of 
howling  lunatics.  Some  would  spin  around  like  a  top, 
while  others  would  jump,  hop,  and  skip  around  the 
room  with  their  long,  yellow,  half  naked  bodies  jerking 
and  wriggling  in  a  horrible  manner.  At  the  same 
time  they  would  howl  so  loud  and  so  coarse  that  the 
braying  of  an  ass  or  roaring  of  a  lion  would  be  music 


DONKEYS    AND     DONKEY     BOYS.  217 

to  it.  Many  of  tlie  performers  soon  became  too  mucli 
exhausted  to  hop,  and  too  much  out  of  breath  to  howl, 
l>ut  woukl  sway  to  and  fro  frothing  at  the  moutli,  and 
occasionally  uttering  a  hoarse  growl.  After  the  per- 
formance had  continued  for  some  time,  the  voice  of  the 
howlers  lost  all  semblance  to  that  of  a  human  being, 
consisting  of  a  hoarse  smothered  grunt  which  appeared 
to  come  from  the  pit  of  their  stomach. 

When  the  howling  was  ovei-,  a  low  sob  was  heard  in 
one  part  of  the  hall,  then  another,  and  another,  until 
the  whole  party  were  crying  at  the  top  of  their  voices, 
iilling  the  room  with  loud  bursts  of  wailing. 

It  was  now  after  midnight,  and  the  exercises  not  yet 
over,  but  we  had  seen  enough  of  the  howling  Dervishes, 
and  we  left  for  our  hotel.  But  we  all  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  this  performance  exceeded  all  other 
strange  things  which  we  had  seen  in  Grand  Cairo. 

DOXKEYS,  AND  DONKEY  BOYS. 

The  donkeys  of  Egypt  are  very  different  from  those 
of  Europe,  having  more  life,  and  activity,  and  are  not 
that  dull,  stupid  animal  found  in  other  countries.  It  is 
said  that  these  donkeys  are  of  a  different  race,  being 
the  descendants  of  the  wild  ass  of  Tartary  or  Circassia, 
of  which  the  patriarch  Job  says,  is  of  God's  noble 
work.  Shakespeare  in  his  delineation  of  the  human 
character  says,  an  honest  man  is  the  best  piece  of 
divine  production.  Which  is  right  in  their  declarations, 
I  will  not  pretend  to  say,  as  it  would  l)e  a  delicate 
matter  to  decide  on  points  controverted  by  these  great 

B* 


218  bp:yo]!^d    the    Atlantic. 

authors.  Whether  the  man  or  the  ass  is  entitled  to 
superiority  in  creation  is  not  material  to  this  subject. 
But  it  is  very  certain  that  no  animal  in  Egypt  is  of  so 
much  service  to  its  owner,  as  the  donkey.  Here  they 
pay  a  triple  debt,  acting  as  horse,  carriage,  and  dray. 
For  the  saddle  they  are  preferable  to  the  horse,  and  for 
light  packages  they  are  better  than  the  camel.  Large 
droves  of  them  are  seen  in  the  streets,  carrying  produce 
or  merchandise,  stone,  or  mortar  for  building  purposes, 
and  water  to  supply  the  city.  If  a  cellar  is  to  be  dug, 
a  large  drove  of  them  are  seen  carrying  dirt,  going  back 
and  forth  to  the  place  of  loading  and  unloading,  without 
a  driver. 

In  the  streets  of  Egyptian  cities,  tourists  are  all  the 
while  annoyed  by  donkey  boys,  with  "  Will  you  have  a 
donkey,  good  donkey,  gallop  all  day  and  never  fall 
down,  very  cheap,  etc."  Thus  they  will  continue  to 
praise  their  donkey,  not  forgetting  to  tell  that  he  is 
named  for  some  great  man  in  America  or  England.  It 
is  difficult  to  get  rid  of  these  boys,  as  they  will  continue 
in  your  company,  leading  their  donkey  in  the  way,  so 
that  you  will  have  to  walk  around  it.  The  donkey  boys, 
(many  of  Avhom  are  grown  men)  do  not  lack  in  shrewdness. 
They  understand  the  way  to  drive  a  good  trade,  and 
can  talk  almost  any  language  to  suit  their  employers. 
When  they  let  their  donkey,  they  always  go  with  it, 
carrying  a  stick  to  guide,  and  whip  it  when  necessary. 
These  boys  appear  to  have  great  endurance,  and  will 
follow  a  donkey  when  on  a  good  galloj^  for  many  miles, 
without  showing  much  fotigue. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


GOING  TO  THE  PYRAMIDS. 

On  the  evening  before  our  intended  visit  to  the 
pyramids,  I  told  some  donkey  boys  that  a  number  of 
their  donkeys  would  be  wanting  the  next  morning  at 
the  Grjuid  hotel  d'Europe,  and  long  before  we  were  up 
a  large  drove  of  them  were  in  waiting  for  us.  The 
donkey  boys  who  were  full  grown  Arabs,  had  many 
of  their  donkeys  named  after  distinguished  men  of 
England  and  America,  but  would  change  their  names, 
at  any  time,  to  suit  French  or  German  customers.  Next 
came  the  selecting  of  such  of  the  donkeys  as  we  thought 
would  suit  our  purpose.  I  selected  one  called  Yankee 
Doodle,  which  proved  to  be  an  excellent  animal,  and  I 
rode  him  every  day  during  my  stay  in  Cairo.  In  our 
party  was  a  Presbyterian  clergyman  from  Philadelphia, 
])y  the  name  of  W.  H.  Martin,  a  man  of  much  piety,  who 
frequently  reproved  some  of  the  company  for  using  bad 
language.  In  selecting  our  donkeys  the  parson  made 
choice   of  a   large,  gray,    mule-headed  stallion,   called 


220  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Andy  Johnson,  saying  at  the  same  time  that  he  not  only 
liked  the  looks  of  the  donkey,  but  his  name  was  a  great 
favorite  with  him. 

All  things  being  ready  we  started  for  the  pyramids 
which  are  eight  miles  distant.  The  boys  running  after 
us  and  whipping  the  donkeys  into  a  gallop.  On  we 
went  through  the  crowded  streets  of  the  city,  sometimes 
among  caravans  of  camels  loaded  with  stone,  or  long 
building  timbers,  which  caused  us  to  dodge  our  heads 
this  way  and  that  to  prevent  collision. 

Before  leaving  the  hotel,  one  of  our  party  learning  the 
tricks  of  Andy  Johnson,  gave  the  boy  having  him  in 
charge  a  shilling  to  have  him  show  off  at  the  parson's  ex- 
pense. Scarcely  had  we  passed  the  city  limits,  when  the 
donkey  on  receiving  a  signal  from  his  master  commenced 
jumping  up  and  down,  and  kicking  at  a  furious  rate, 
acting  much  like  a  trained  mule.  The  parson  tried  to 
quiet  him  by  kind  words,  which  were  first  spoken  in 
English,  then  in  French,  but  the  donkey  understanding 
nothing  but  Arabic,  continued  to  kick  and  jump,  until 
he  landed  his  rider  headlong  into  a  dirty  place  in  the 
road.  At  this  turn  of  affairs,  the  parson  lost  all  patience 
and  gathering  himself  up,  with  his  hands  and  face  all 
covered  with  filth,  he  gave  vent  to  some  hard  words 
which  he  afterwards  proposed  to  take  back.  But  we 
said  to  him  that  he  ought  to  take  nothing  back,  as  he 
was  justifiable  in  all  that  he  had  said,  and  even  then  he 
had  not  done  half  justice  to  the  case.  If  this  paragraph 
should  ever  meet  the  eyes  of  friend  Martin,  it  is  hoped 
that  he  will  pardon  me  for  letting  the  world  know  that 


GOIXG      TO     THE     PYRAMIDS.  221 

he  was  in  any  way  connected  with  the  tricks  of  Andy 
Johnson. 

Things  being  again  righted,  we  continued  on  our  way 
with  the  donkeys  on  a  gallop,  and  the  boys  running 
after  them  with  their  petticoats  flying  above  their  knees. 
We  passed  many  beautiful  groves  of  palm  trees,  and 
by  the  side  of  cultivated  gardens,  and  green  pastures, 
making  the  ride  a  delightful  one.  Three  miles  travel 
brought  us  to  Old  Cairo,  where  we  crossed  the  Nile  in 
a  sail  ferry  boat. 

Before  reaching  the  j^yramids  we  were  met  by  about 
twenty  Arabs,  who  turned  back  and  went  with  us,  for 
the  purpose  of  selling  mementos.  These  Arabs  be- 
longed to  the  pyramids,  and  were  large  atjiletic  men 
speaking  good  English,  and  whose  wearing  aj^parel 
consisted  of  a  turban  and  a  white  cotton  frock  coming 
down  to  their  knees,  leaving  their  feet  and  legs 
bare.  About  one  mile  from  the  pyramids,  we  came  to 
a  bayou  caused  by  the  rise  of  the  Nile.  Here  we  left 
our  donkeys,  and  after  being  ferried  over  this  bayou, 
we  continued  our  way  on  foot.  On  our  road  we  had 
to  cross  a  slough  of  a  few  rods  in  width,  and  agreed 
with  the  Arabs  to  carry  us  across  for  a  sixpence  each. 
Gathering  their  skirts  under  their  arms,  they  carried  us 
across  in  quick  time.  Two  of  them  took  me  up  exclaim- 
ing at  the  same  time :  "  Oh  very  heavy,  worth  a  shilling." 
When  part  way  across  they  stopped,  one  of  them,  pre- 
tending to  stick  fast  in  the  mud,  and  saying :  "  Too 
heavy,  will  you  pay  a  shilling."  I  replied  no,  go  on, 
and  thinking  of  being  on  a  balky  horse,  I  commenced 


222  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

kicking.  The  nails  in  the  heels  of  my  boots  coming  in 
contact  with  their  bare  hips  made  some  red  marks,  for 
which  they  claimed  a  sixpence  damage.  However  they 
carried  me  over  safe,  and  I  paid  them  a  shilling,  believ- 
ing it  to  be  cheap  enough. 


PYRAMIDS    AND  SPHINX. 

The  pyramids  of  Gizeh  are  the  largest,  and  the  most 
celebrated  of  all  the  different  groups  in  Egypt.  These 
are  located  at  the  west  side  of  the  Xile  valley,  and 
at  the  edge  of  the  desert,  where  the  sand  is  all  the 
while  drifting  around  them.  There  are  three  pyramids 
in  this  group,  the  largest  of  which  is  called  Cheops, 
being  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet  in  perpendicular 
hight,  and  covering  an  area  of  nearly  thirteen  acres 
It  is  built  of  large  blocks  of  stone,  from  two  to  four 
feet  thick,  and  about  twenty  feet  in  length.  It  is  a 
square  mass  of  stone,  and  rises  on  either  side  like  a 
flight  of  stairs,  with  an  average  of  four  feet  base,  and 
three  feet  rise.  Xear  Cheops  is  a  pyramid  called  Cejjhre- 
nes  which  remains  perfect  at  the  top,  running  up  to  a 
sharp  peak  and  coated  with  colored  marble.  By  the 
side  of  these  two  pyramids  is.  another  one  of  much 
smaller  dimensions  which  completes  the  group. 

At  what  time,  and  for  what  purpose,  and  by  whom 
these  pyramids  were  built,  writers  on  antiquity  do  not 
agree. 

Close  by  the  pyramids,  and  partly  covered  up  with 
drifting    sand    is    seen    the"  great    Sphinx,  the    ancient 


THE  ASCEXT  OF  CHEOPS,         223 

Egyptian  god.  This  great  relic  of  antiquity  is  con- 
structed of  red  granite,  representing  in  its  formation  the 
body  of  a  lion,  with  a  head  of  a  man,  and  is  in  a  crouch- 
ing position.  Its  body  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight 
feet  long,  with  the  head  rising  fifty-five  feet  inhight,  and 
measuring  around  it  eighty-nine  feet,  while  its  enormous 
paws  stretch  out  in  front  of  its  breast,  fifty-seven  feet. 
By  the  side  of  the  Sphinx  are  the  ruins  of  the  temple 
of  the  Sphinx,  which  have  of  late  been  brought  to 
light  by  the  removal  of  sand.  This  temple  is  shown  to 
have  beena  building  of  elegance  and  beauty,  being 
surrounded  In^  finely  carved  columns,  while  its  walls  and 
floors   are  composed  of  colored  marble. 


THE  ASCEXT  OF  CHEOPS. 

At  the  pyramids  we  were  surrounded  by  about  thirty 
Arabs,  all  anxious  to  bargain  with  us  for  making  the 
ascent,  but  we  would  make  no  contract  with  them  until 
we  had  seen  the  Sheik,  who  is  the  man  in  authority, 
being  governor  of  the  village.  Our  dragoman  brought 
the  Sheik  to  us  and  we  agreed  with  him  to  furnish  us 
the  necessary  assistance  for  four  shillings  each,  without 
any  backsheesh. 

All  things  being  ready,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of 
Cheops  with  four  Arabs  assisting  each  of  us,  two  pulling  at 
the  arms,  one  pushing  at  our  back,  and  the  fourth  follow- 
ing after  to  render  any  assistance  necessary.  Long 
before  we  had  reached  the  toj^,  our  conductors  became 
clamorous  for  backsheesh,  which  is   money  in  addition 


224  BEYOND      THE      A  T  L  A  X  TI  C  . 

to  that  agreed  on,  but  we  refused  to  give  them  auy 
until  they  had  completed  their  contract.  After  a 
fatiguing  journey  of  nearly  half  an  hour,  including 
many  resting  spells  on  the  way,  we  reached  the  summit. 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  this  pyramid  is  very 
line,  presenting  a  beauty  of  landscape  scenery,  'probably 
unequalled  in  Egypt.  Below  us  is  an  Arab  village, 
around  which  are  seen  remains  of  earth  fortifications, 
where  in  1797  was  fought  the  battle  of  the  pyramids,  in 
which  Bonaparte  defeated  the  Mamaluke  Beys. 

The  Nile  for  many  miles  could  be  seen  with  its 
numerous  bayous  and  lakes,  caused  by  the  late  inunda- 
tions. To  our  right  lay  the  ruins  of  Memphis,  once  the 
home  of  the  Pharaohs,  witli  its  five  pyramids  which 
look  in  the  distance  like  huge  hay  stacks.  To  our 
left  we  could  see  the  ci:y  of  Cairo,  witli  its  four  hundred 
mosques  and  countless  minarets  glittering  in  the  sun 
beams.  Behind  us  lay  the  great  desert,  with  its  mount- 
ains of  rocks  and  j^lains  of  sand.  But  we  were  not 
allowed  to  enjoy  this  beautiful  scenery,  for  the  Arabs 
continued  to  hound  us  for  money,  trying  to  make 
us  buy  their  trinkets,  which  they  said  were  antique, 
being  found  in  the  pyramids.  But  knowing  it  to  be  a 
criminal  offense  everywhere,  to  sell  a  genuine  article, 
I  ridiculed  their  statements,  by  saying  that  the  Yankees 
in  America  made  those  things  by  steam  power,  and  sold 
them  for  three  shillings  per  hundred.  At  my  declara- 
tion they  laughed  heartily,  and  gave  a  loud  cheer  for 
the  Yankees  of  America,  after  which  they  sang  the 
jolly  song  of  Yankee  land. 


THE  ASCENT  OF  CHEOPS.         225 

Oil  the  top  of  the  pyramid  is  a  level  space  of  some 
fifty  feet  square,  showing  that  mauy  feet  of  its  top  has 
been  taken  off.  Here  on  the  top  are  large  stones,  ten 
or  twelve  feet  in  length,  giving  to  it  the  appearance 
of  a  native  quarry ;  and  on  these  are  cut  many  names  of 
visitors,  also  the  United  States  flag  painted  in  red,  white, 
and  blue. 

After  descending  from  the  pyramids,  we  prepared 
ourselves  with  lights,  to  enter  its  vaulted  chambers, 
which  is  a  severe  ordeal  to  accomplish  on  account  of 
bad  air  and  dust. 

For  some  ways  we  went  down  an  inclined  plain  through 
a  dark  dusty  tunnel  where  we  had  to  go  half  bent.     Then 
up  steep  steps,  and  through  a  narrow  passage  where  we 
almost  crawled  on   our  hands  and  knees.     At  last  we 
entered  the  grand  hall,  and   from  there   we  passed  into 
the    king's    and    queen's    chambers.     These    are    large 
apartments,  but  the  account  which   I  read,   describing 
their  beauty  and  magnitude  is  very  much   exaggerated. 
Our  sight  seeing  at  the  pyramids  was  now  at  an  end, 
but  our  troubles  were  not,  for  the  Arabs  had  collected 
around   us    in  a  threatening  manner,  demanding  more 
money.     We  gave  them  additional  four  shillings  each, 
but   this    only  made    them    clamorous    for   more.     For 
protection  we  appealed  to  the   Sheik   and  his   military 
guard,  which  consisted  of  only  one  man,  who  was  armed 
with  an  old  flint  lock  musket,  that  looked    as  though 
it  might  have  been  used  at  the  taking  of  Jericho.     But 
we  found  these  officials  to  be  the  greatest  robbers  of  the 
gang,  and  for  a  time  our  case  looked  desperate.     I  gave 


226  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

the  military  guard  two  shillings  to  protect  me  from 
further  annoyance  from  these  I'obbers,  which  he  did 
faithfully,  and  as  they  collected  around  me,  he  would 
go  at  them  with  his  long,  rusty  musket  and  push  them 
away.  While  in  the  midst  of  confusion  we.  left  the 
pyramids,  followed  by  the  Arabs  yelling  for  backsheesh 
and  rallying  in  our  front,  in  order  to  make  us  stop.  At 
last  we  came  to  where  we  had  left  our  donkeys,  and 
mounting,  we  put  them  in  a  gallop  for  Cairo,  feeling 
much  relieved  in  ridding  ourselves  of  the  Arabs ;  but 
it  had  cost  us  about  ten  dollars  each,  to  seethe  pyramids. 

A  VISIT  TO  THE  PETRIFIED  FOREST. 

We  left  Cairo  early  in  the  morning  to  visit  the  petri- 
fied forest,  which  is  situated  in  the  desert,  about  six 
miles  from  the  Nile  valley.  The  first  object  on  the 
road  that  attracted  our  attention,  was  the  tombs  of  the 
Caliphs,  the  former  kings  of  Egypt.  Each  tomb  is 
covered  by  a  large  Turkish  mosque,  with  many  tall  min- 
arets. They  stand  on  the  desert  a  short  distance  from  the 
city,  where  the  sand  is  all  the  while  drifting  around  them, 
and  have  a  dilapidated,  forsaken  appearance.  Farther 
on  we  came  to  large  stone  quarries,  where  the  stone 
was  obtained  to  build  Cai  ro,  and  here  camels  w^ere 
being  loaded  Avith  building  stone,  A  railroad  is  now 
being  built  to  these  quarries  which  will  obviate  the 
slow  process  of  packing  stone  on  camels.  This  petrified 
forest  which  has  for  many  years  attracted  the  attention 
of  men  of  science,  is    located    on   high    land,  which   is 


HELIOPOLIS,     OR    CITY    OF    THE     SUN.        227 

covered  with  sand  and  rocks.  There  are  no  treevS  hpre 
but  pieces  of  petrified  wood,  three  or  four  feet  in  length 
are  seen  scattered  over  the  ground.  These  pieces  of 
wood  show  the  growth  of  the  tree,  knots,  hearts,  and 
parts  of  limbs.  There  are  many  acres  of  ground 
covered  over  with  petrified  wood,  and  containing  pieces 
G>f  almost  every  size  and  shape,  all  of  which  have  the 
appearance  of  limestone.  If  I  did  not  have  the  opinion 
of  geologists,  and  other  men  of  science  who  pronounce 
these  rocks,  petrified  wood,  I  would  be  led  to  believe 
them  only  a  curious  formation  of  stone. 

As  we  were  returning  from  the  petrified  forest,  my 
friend  M.  Mauley  met  with  quite  a  mishap,  wdiich 
caused  much  merriment  among  our  party.  The  donkey 
on  whicli  he  was  riding  becoming  tired  of  carrying  two 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  pounds,  over  rocks  and 
through  the  burning  sand  of  the  desert,  thought  it  best 
to  ship  his  burden,  and  down  he  came  with  his  nose,  as 
well  as  that  of  Mr,  Mauley  in  the  sand.  In  this  posi- 
tion both  Mr.  Mauley  and  the  donkey  lay,  until  we 
dismounted  and  picked  them  up.  All  things  being 
again  righted,  we  continued  on  our  way,  but  the  donkey 
repeated  his  tricks  three  or  four  times,  finally  breaking 
Mr.  Mauley's  spectacles,  and  barking  his  nose  as  it 
came  in  contact  with  the  sand. 


HELIOPOLIS,   OB  CITY  OF    THE  SUN. 

Accompained  by  an  intelligent  dragoman,  we  made 
a  visit  to  the  ruins  of  this  ancient  city,  which  is  situated 


228  BEYOxVD      THE     ATLAXTIC. 

eight  miles  north-east  of  Cairo.  According  to  history 
the  city  of  the  Sun,  or  Heliopolis,  was  the  oldest  and 
largest  of  all  the  ancient  cities  of  Egypt,  and  was  a 
place  of  great  wealth  and  splendor.  The  remains  of 
the  temple  of  the  Sun,  with  a  few  fragments  of  broken 
columns,  together  with  a  standing  obelisk  seventy-two 
feet  high,  are  all  that  now  marks  the  spot  where  stood 
a  great  city  of  antiquity. 

From  Heliopolis,  the  ancient  Romans  transported  the 
mammoth  obelisk  now  standing  in  front  of  the  church 
of  St  John  Laterena,  Rome,  also  the  one  in  the  piazza 
of  St.  Peter's  church. 

Near  the  ruins  of  the  city  is  a  spring  shaded  by  a 
large  sycamore  tree,  and  under  its  shade  were  found 
collected  a  large  number  of  Arabs,  some  of  whom  were 
praying  or  singing  psalms,  while  others  were  smoking 
their  pipes.  This  spring  is  said  to  be  the  only  one  in 
the  Nile  valley,  and  is  known  as  the  fountain  of  the  Sun. 
Tradition  says,  when  Joseph  and  Mary  with  the  infant 
Christ  visited  Egypt,  they  encamped  at  this  spring,  and 
caused  its  bitter  water  to  be  pure  and  sweet. 

In  the  vicinity  of  this  ruined  city,  are  many  beautiful 
palm  groves,  and  the  trees  at  the  time  of  our  visit  were 
loaded  with  fruit.  The  palm  groves  of  Egypt  are  said 
to  be  unequaled  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  The 
trees  here  grow  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  height,  the 
trunk  retaining  its  size  to  the  top.  On  the  top  of  the 
trunk  is  a  cluster  of  limbs  turning  downwards  like  a 
weeping  willow,  between  which  hang  large  bunches 
of  dates  of  one  hundred  pounds  or  more  each. 


MEMPHIS,     OR     NOPH     OF    SCRIPTURE.       229 

On  our  return  to  Cairo,  we  saw  an  early  piece  of 
corn  partly  destroyed  by  the  wild  boar.  These  animals 
live  among  the  rocks  of  the  desert,  far  away  from 
human  habitation,  from  which  they  come  forth  at  night 
to  destroy  the  growing  crops,  to  the  great  annoyance 
of  the  farmers. 


MEMPHIS,  OR  jS^OPH   OF    SCRIPTURE. 

Twelve  miles  above  Cairo,  and  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Nile,  are  still  to  be  seen  some  of  the  ruins  of  Mem- 
phis. This  city  was  the  former  capital  of  Egypt  and 
home  of  the  Pharaohs'  as  well  as  the  residence  of 
Joseph  and  Moses.  But  it  has  long  since  disappeared, 
leaving  only  a  few  relics  to  mark  its  location,  and  to 
give  an  outline  of  its  former  greatness.  Here  are  five 
pyramids  and  a  Sphinx,  as  well  as  remains  of  ruined 
temples  and  palaces.  In  difierent  places  are  mounds 
of  earth  containing  pieces  of  pottery  and  scraps  of 
broken  marble  columns.  With  other  relics  of  antiquity, 
is  a  colossal  statue  forty- two  feet  long,  cut  out  of  lime- 
stone, and  is  supposed  to  represent  one  of  the  ancient 
kings  of  Egypt.  This  statue  has  been  broken  oif  from 
a  pedestal  where  it  once  stood,  and  now  lies  partly 
buried  up    with  mud    and  water. 

Occupying  part  of  the  site  of  the  ancient  city,  is  now 
a  miserable  Arab  village,  surrounded  by  fields  of  corn, 
cotton,  and  sugar  cane.  The  boundaries  of  the  ancient 
city  of  Memphis,  as  pointed  out  by  the  Arabs,  are  large 


230  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

enough  to  have  contained  over  one  million  of  inhabitants 
and  over  a  large  portion  of  this  ground  not  a  vestige 
of  its  ruins  are  seen.  The  buildings  having  been  con- 
structed of  unburned  brick,  long  since  mouldered  into 
earth,  while  the  marble  of  which  its  fine  temples  and 
palaces  were  composed,  has  been  removed  to  build 
modern  cities. 

The  prophet  Jeremiah  in  speaking  of  this  city  says: 
"Xoph  shall  be  waste  and  desolate,  without  an  inhabi- 
tant." How  well  this  prophecy  has  been  fulfilled. 
Where  once  stood  this  great  city  of  the  Xile,  are  now 
palm  groves  and  cultivated  fields,  among  which  scarcely 
a  vestige  of  its  former  grandeur  remains. 

Two  mile<  below  Memphis  is  a  small  bayou  in  the 
river  with  its  edges  covere'd  with  bulrushes.  This  is 
pointed  out  as  the  place  where  Pharaoh's  daughter 
found  Moses  cradled  in  an  ark. 


OLD  CAIRO,  AND  ISLAND   OF  KODA. 

Old  Cairo  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Xile, 
three  miles  from  Grand  Cairo  and  is  said  to  occupy  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Egyptian  Babylon.  Here  are  the 
remains  of  an  old  Roman  fortress,  built  nineteen  hundred 
years  ago.  Some  of  its  tower,^  are  stili  standing,  on 
one  of  which  remains  the  Roman  Eagle.  One  of  these 
walls  contains  a  curious  device,  representing  Deity 
sitting  on  a  globe  which  is  supported  by  two  angels.  In 
the  upper  part  of  the  town  near  the  river,  is  an  ancient 


O 
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ARAB     LIFE     IN    THE    COUNTRY.  233 

structure  called  Joseph's  granaries.  Tradition  says,  it 
was  in  these  buildings  that  Joseph  stored  the  corn,  in 
providing  for  the  days  of  famine. 

Here  in  old  Cairo,  we  visited  an  Egyptian  grain 
market,  which  is  situated  out  of  doors,  and  on  a  public 
square.  The  diflerent  kinds  of  grain  were  lying  on  the 
ground  in  large  piles,  between  which  is  a  public 
thoroughfare  for  the  passage  of  camels  and  donkeys. 
The  grain  is  kept  in  this  way  at  all  seasons  of  the  year 
as  rain  is  almost  unknown  in  Egypt. 

In  the  river  below  the  town  is  located  the  beautiful 
island  of  Roda,  which  has  been  so  often  referred  to  at 
different  periods  of  Egyptian  history.  This  is  a  small 
island  with  grassy  banks  and  shade  trees,  on  the 
upper  end  of  which  stands  the  celebrated  Nileometer. 
This  is  a  square  stone  building,  containing  a  stone 
pillar,  having  on  it  scales  and  figures  to  show  the  rise 
and  fall  of  the  Nile.  At  the  time  of  annual  floods,  criers 
on  the  mJnarets  of  all  the  principal  mosques  in  Grand 
Cah'o,  inform  the  people  night  and  morning  of  the  rise 
or  fall  of  the  river  as  shown  by  this  pillar. 

The  accompanying  picture  shows  the  manner  of 
ferrying  the  Nile,  with  the  island  of  Roda  in  front,  and 
the  pyramids  in  the  distance. 

ARAB  LIFE  IN  THE  COUNTRY. 

Having  traveled  several  hundred  miles  through  the 
Nile  valley,  I  enjoyed  an  opportunity  of  learning  many 
things  relating  to  the  customs  and  habits  of  the  people, 


234  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

social  life  in  the  rural  districts,  manner  of  fanning, 
etc.  In  the  country  the  masses  are  poor,  and  inclined 
to  indolence,  but  in  every  village  there  are  one  or 
more  persons  of  wealth,  the  owner  of  farms  and  herds, 
on  whom  the  poorer  classes  are  dependent  for  employ- 
ment. The  title  of  the  land  is  in  most  cases,  in 
the  hands  of  the  government,  and  each  occupant  of  a 
farm  pays  high  rent  for  its  use.  All  kinds  of  property 
are  taxed  at  a  high  rate,  even  the  palm  trees,  and  all 
other  trees  bearing  fruit  are  subject  to  a  special  tax. 
When  the  crops  are  light,  many  of  the  farmers  are 
unable  to  pay  their  taxes,  and  their  property  is  sacrificed. 
In  addition  to  the  sacrifice  of  property,  the  delinquent 
tax  payer  receives  one  hundred  lashes  on  the  bottom 
of  his  bare  feet,  providing  the  tax  collector  believes 
that  proper  means  have  not  been  used  to  obtain  the 
money. 

There  are  but  few  horses  or  cattle  in  Egypt,  camels, 
donkeys,  and  bufKiloes  supplying  their  place.  Plowing  is 
mostly  done  with  buffiiloes,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to 
see  a  camel  and  buffalo  yoked  together  before  a  plow. 

In  Alexandria  and  Cairo,  tliere  are  a  few  carriages, 
but  carriages  are  not  found  in  other  parts  of  Egypt,  as 
there  are  no  roads  on  which  they  could  run.  All  kinds 
of  produce,  merchandise,  lumber,  stone,  etc.,  are  carried 
through  the  country  on  the  backs  of  camels  and  donkeys. 
In  all  the  principal  cities  there  are  hotels  kept  by  Euro- 
peans, but  they  are  not  found  in  other  parts  of  the 
country,  and  if  a  traveler  wishes  to  stay  all  night  in  the 
rural  districts,  he   is   entertained  free  of  charge  by  the 


ARAB    LIFE    IN     THE    COUNTRY.  235 

Sheik  of  the  village.  The  expense  of  traveling  in  Egypt, 
is  about  double  that  of  Europe,  and  the  hotels  charge 
by  the  day,  instead  of  the  restaurant  plan  of  Europe. 
A  tourist  will  find  less  trouble  about  language  here,  than 
on  the  Continent.  The  French  language  is  the  best  for 
Europe,  but  English  is  the  best  for  the  Orient. 

In  Egypt  there  is  neither  wood,  coal,  nor  peat,  and  the 
fuel  used  here  by  the  natives,  is  made  out  of  manure, 
mixed  with  cut  straw,  rolled  out  into  thin  cakes,  and 
dried  in  the  sun.  This  kind  of  fuel  is  an  article  of 
trade,  bought  and  sold  in  market,  and  is  carried  through 
the  country  on  camels  and  donkeys,  the  same  as  other 
commodities. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


EGYPTIAN  CUSTOMS. 

The  inliabitaDts  of  Lower  Egypt  are  principally  Arabs 
and  Mamalukes,  and  are  of  all  shades  and  colors,  from 
the  fair  skinned  Circassian,  to  the  jet  black  Nubian.  In 
the  rural  districts,  but  few  Europeans  are  found,  but  in 
the  cities  many  different  countries  are  represented.  In 
the  country,  people  live  in  villages  which  are  located 
on  the  highest  ground,  so  as  to  escape  the  floods  of  the 
Nile,  and  at  a  distance  these  villages  look  like  a  cluster 
of  hay  stacks.  The  houses  are  constructed  of  mud  or 
unburned  brick,  and  are  one  story  high,  without  chimney, 
window  glass,  or  door  shutters.  In  the  middle  of  the 
roof  is  an  open  dome,  through  which  the  smoke  escapes. 
In  these  houses  they  have  no  bedsteads,  chairs,  nor  ta- 
bles, but  sleep  on  mattresses  placed  in  one  corner  of  the 
room,  and  they  sit  on  the  floor  after  the  fashion  of  a 
tailor  on  his  bench.  Neither  do  they  use  knives  and 
forks,  their  place  being  supplied  by  fingers.  Many  of  the 
people  sleep  out  of  doors;  while  passing  through  the 


EGYPTIAN    CUSTOMS.  237 

Streets  early  in  the  morning,  I  saw  many  lying  by  the 
side  of  houses,  with  their  heads  covered  up,  while  their 
feet  and  legs  were  bare. 

The  people  are  mostly  educated,  and  are  very  religious, 
spending  much  of  their  time  in  prayer  and  singing 
hymns.  By  the  side  of  mosques,  as  well  as  by  the  way- 
side, are  stone  pillars  called  praying  posts,  where  people 
are  §een  at  all  hours  of  the  day  standing  in  prayer.  On 
the  top  of  these  praying  posts  is  a  directory,  pointing 
towards  Mecca,  so  the  persons  praying,  may  have  their 
face  turned  in  the  direction  of  that  holy  city.  The 
Arabs  carry  their  religion  into  their  business  transac- 
tions, and  have  a  low  opinion  of  the  honesty  of  Chris- 
tians. I  have  talked  with  different  ones  on  this  subject 
who  say,  if  they  go  to  a  Mohammedan  merchant,  they 
will  get  full  weight  and  measure,  but  with  a  Greek, 
(Christian,)  they  are  apt  to  be  cheated. 

The  dress  of  the  men,  consists  of  a  blue  frock,  coming 
down  to  their  knees,  leaving  their  feet  and  legs  bare. 
On  their  head  they  wear  a  knit  turban,  wrapped  around 
with  many  folds  of  white  cloth.  They  wear  their  beards 
long,  but  shave  their  heads  once  a  week.  I  have  fre- 
quently seen  men  at  work  in  the  field  while  in  a  state 
of  nudity,  many  of  whom  were  over  six  feet  in  hight, 
and  of  various  shades  and  colors. 

The  women  wear  a  long  gown,  made  mostly  of  blue 
cotton  cloth,  with  a  shawl  over  their  heads,  and  are 
generally  barefooted,  and  little  appreciating  the  troubles 
of  Flora  McFlimsey.  They  frequently  stain  their  lips 
and   teeth    with    hanna,  giving  to  them    a   blue    color. 


238  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Many  of  them  have  their  hands  and  face  tattooed  in 
blue  colors  representing  various  patterns  and  styles, 
which  are  made  in  conformity  to  the  goddess  of  fashion. 
They  wear  a  mask  over  their  face,  consisting  of  a  thick, 
black,  knit  scarf,  extending  down  to  their  heels,  and 
looking  at  a  distance  like  an  elephant's  trunk.  In  these 
masks  are  holes  for  the  eyes,  and  a  gold  ornament  on 
the  ridge  of  the  nose. 

At  a  station  north  of  Cairo,  thirteen  women  dressed 
in  long  silk  robes,  and  belonging  to  a  rich  man's  harem 
came  into  the  cars  and  took  their  seats  in  that  part  of 
the  car  designed  for  harem  women.  While  on  the 
road  the  door  of  their  apartment  became  partly  ajar, 
and  sitting  close  by,  I  saw  these  women,  who  were  of 
differing  colors,  with  their  masks  off  so  as  to  smoke 
their  cigarettes.  But  when  they  saw  me  looking 
at  them,  they  gave  a  loud  scream,  and  covered  their 
faces  with  their  masks.  At  this  alarm,  a  eunuch  who 
had  them  in  charge,  came  and  closed  the  door. 


ARAB  MAREIAGE  CUSTOM. 

Having  conversed  with  different  Arabs  regarding 
their  marriage  custom,  I  find  that  it  is  nearly  the  same 
as  laid  down  in  the  Mosaic  laws.  A  woman  amonjr 
them  is  not  won  in  courtship,  but  purchased  from  her 
father  and  is  an  article  of  trade,  the  same  as  a  donkey 
or  camel.  Every  man,  rich  or  poor,  has  to  buy  his  wife, 
and  he  is  governed  in  quality  according  to  the  extent 
of  his  purse.     The  price  of  wives  varies  according  to 


ARAB     MARRIAGE      CUSTOM.  239 

the  state  of  the  money  market,  but  fifty  dollars  is  about 
the  average.  Girls  of  great  beauty,  or  having  a  father 
in  high  position,  will  sometimes  bring  five  hundred 
or  one  thousand  dollars.  A  man  having  marriageable 
daughters,  will  sometimes  sell  them  to  men  who  will 
give  the  most  money,  without  consulting  the  girl's 
wishes,  frequently  to  old  men  to  supply  their  harem.  A 
man  having  sons,  will  lay  up  money  to  buy  them  wives, 
and  if  a  young  man  has  to  rely  upon  his  own  resources, 
he  will  save  every  penny  for  that  purpose. 

A  donkey  boy  over  six  feet  in  hight,  whom  I  frequently 
employed,  said  to  me,  that  he  had  no  father  to  buy  him  a 
wife,  consequently  had  been  saving  money  for  that  pur- 
pose. He  told  me  that  one  Mr.  Turner  of  New  York, 
whom  he  had  served  many  days,  bought  for  him  a  coat 
and  a  pair  of  boots,  being  the  only  ones  he  ever  had,  but 
said  that  he  could  not  aiford  to  wear  them,  so  he  sold 
these  articles,  and  laid  by  the  money  to  buy  him  a  wife. 
I  said  to  this  donkey  boy,  if  he  would  go  to  America, 
he  could  obtain  a  wife  without  buying,  to  which  he 
replied:  "They  certainly  could  not  be  worth  much,  if 
obtained  in  that  way." 

Men  sometimes  marry  a  wife  without  having  seen 
her  previous  to  the  wedding  day:  all  arrangements 
being  made  by  the  fathers  of  the  parties.  On  the 
wedding  day  the  bride,  attended  by  friends,  is  placed 
on  a  camel  covered  all  over  with  a  silk  robe,  proceeds 
to  the  residence  of  her  intended  husband,  where  the 
marriage  takes  place,  and  the  purchase  money  jjaid 
to  her  father.     I  have  frequently  seen  these  wedding 


240  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

parties  passing  through  the  streets  of  Oriental  cities 
attended  with  loud  cheering,  clapping  of  hands,  bands 
of  music,  and  troups  of  dancing  girls. 

If  the  wife  at  any  time  proves  unfaithful  to  lier  mar- 
riage vows,  the  injured  husband  claims  of  her  father  the 
return  of  the  purchase  money,  and  if  the  evidence  of  the 
bride's  purity  is  not  shown  at  the  time  of  marriage,  the 
money  paid  for  her  is  also  refunded.  A  man  can  put 
away  his  wife  at  any  time,  without  showing  cause  for  it. 
All  that  is  required  for  a  divorce,  is  a  public  announce- 
ment in  the  church.  Men  can  have  as  many  wives  as 
they  wish;  most  rich  men  keep  a  harem  attended 
by  a  eunuch. 

Women  among  the  Arabs  do  not  occupy  that  high 
position  in  society  which  they  do  in  more  civilized 
countries.  Here  they  are  regarded  as  inferior  to  men, 
and  are  seldom  seen  in  public  accompanied  by  a  male 
friend.  A  man  would  as  leave  be  seen  in  public  with 
a  stolen  sheep  on  his  back,  as  in  the  society  of  his  wife. 


SUEZ  CITY. 

Some  years  ago  the  East  India  Company  built  a  rail- 
road directly  across  the  desert  from  Cairo  to  Suez,  a 
distance  of  ninety-six  miles.  But  this  road  has  of  late 
been  discontinued  on  account  of  drifting  sand  filling  up 
the  track,  and  a  new  one  built,  which  runs  down  the 
I^ile  valley  for  forty  miles,  then  across  the  desert  to 
Suez,  along    the    fresh    water    canal.     This    road   runs 


srEz  CITY.  241 

about  eighty  miles  on  the  desert,  and  in  many  places 
guards  are  placed  by  the  side  of  the  track  to  prevent 
the  drifting  sand  from  filling  it  up.  At  many  of  the 
stations  on  the  desert,  people  live  in  tents,  not  having 
had  time  to  erect  buildings. 

The  city  of  Suez  is  built  on  a  sandy  flat,  near  the 
head  of  the  Red  Sea,  and  is  partly  surrounded  with 
water.  It  is  said  to  contain  a  population  of  twelve 
thousand,  beside  a  large  number  of  wandering  Arabs, 
generally  encamped  in  its  suburbs.  The  streets  are 
without  pavement  or  sidewalks,  being  a  continuous  bed 
of  sand,  in  which  a  person  sinks  at  every  step.  The 
houses  are  built  of  stone,  flat  on  top,  covered  with 
broad  stone  and  cement,  not  generally  water-tight,  but 
rain  is  almost  unknown  in  Suez.  Houses  in  some  places 
are  built  compact,  so  that  a  person  can  walk  a  long  ways 
on  their  tops.  On  many  of  these  houses  are  goat  and 
poultry  yards,  play  grounds  for  children,  and  also  pray- 
ing posts,  where  the  heads  of  the  family  go  night  and 
morning  to  pray.  The  streets  of  the  city  are  full  of 
dogs,  donkeys,  and  goats,  and  contain  filth  of  every 
description,  producing  a  great  variety  of  offensive  smells, 
thus  making  Suez  the  most  repulsive  place  that  I  have 
found  in  all  my  travels. 

There  is  neither  grass,  trees,  shrubbery,  nor  vegeta- 
tion of  any  kind  around  Suez,  and  there  is  no  firming 
land  within  seventy  miles,  being  surrounded  by  a  sandy 
desert.  Every  article  consumed  here  comes  from  a 
distance.  Even  the  water  to  supply  the  city  is  brought 
by  means  of  a  canal  from  the  Nile,  ninety  miles  distant. 


242  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

and  carried  through  the  streets  in  goat  skins  and  sold  to 
the  occupant  of  each  house. 

Suez  is  on  the  high  road  to  India,  and  every  steam- 
ship that  sails  up  the  Red  Sea,  is  tilled  with  passengers 
for  Europe,  when  a  special  train  is  fitted  out  to  carry 
them  to  Alexandria. 


RED   SEA. 

At  Suez,  we  crossed  the  Red  Sea  in  a  sailing  vessel,  and 
examined  the  mouth  of  the  great  ship  canal,  then  being 
built  to  connect  the  water  of  the  Red  Sea  with  that  of 
the  Mediterranean.  And  from  here  we  walked  for  some 
distance  along  the  sandy  shore  of  Arabia,  shading  our- 
selves with  umbrellas,  as  the  heat  of  the  sun  was  very 
oppressive,  although  late  in  November.  While  here, 
I  encountered  a  gale  of  sirocco,  or  poisonous  wind  of 
the  desert,  which  effected  my  health  for  some  weeks 
afterwards. 

Some  distance  below  Suez  is  the  place  located  by 
tradition,  where  the  Israelites  under  the  leadership  of 
Moses,  crossed  the  Red  Sea.  At  this  point  the  sea  is 
about  one  mile  wide,  and  on  the  Arabian  side  the 
beach  is  flat,  with  shallow  water,  while  on  the  African 
side  the  water  is  deep,  and  the  shores  are  bounded  with 
peaks  of  mountains.  An  eminent  writer  says  this  place 
is  the  only  one  which  accords  with  the  Bible  account 
of  this  miracle.  Other  writers  locate  the  place  neai*  the 
head  of  the  gulf  where  the  water  is  more  shallow,  and 
contend  that  the  Israelites  crossed  at  low  tide,  while  the 


ISTHMUS    OF    SUEZ.  248 

flow  destroyed  Pharaoh  and  his  host,  thus  doing  away 
with  the  necessity  of  a  miracle.  Reading  these  different 
opinions  caused  me  to  spend  some  time  in  the  examina- 
tion of  these  places,  and  I  am  satisfied  that  the  latter 
opinion  has  no  foundation  in  fact.  The  water  on  the 
east  side  is  shallow,  but  on  the  west  it  is  deep,  and 
vessels  drawing  fifteen  feet  of  water  pass  over  it,  even 
at  low  tide. 

On  the  African  side  of  the  Red  Sea,  is  a  rocky,  barren 
mountain  called  Jebel  Attaka,  from  which  it  is  said  Mt. 
Sinai  can  be  seen,  although  a  long  way  off.  We 
ascended  this  mountain,  which  gave  us  a  fine  view  of 
the  sea  and  surrounding  country,  while  far  to  the  south- 
east, we  could  see  the  blue  outlines  of  a  mountain  which 
the  Arabs  say  is  Sinai,  but  those  better  acquainted 
with  geography,  say  'it  is  Mount  Catherine,  which  is 
closer  by. 

The  shores  of  the  Red  Sea,  and  country  adjoining  it, 
present  a  scene  of  barrenness  and  desolation  probably 
imequalled  on  the  face  of  the  Globe.  Neither  verdure, 
grass,  nor  trees  are  seen,  nor  one  green  spot  on  which 
the  eye  can  rest,  but  a  continuous  mountain  of  rock,  or 
plains  of  sand. 


ISTHMUS  OF  SUEZ. 

A  short  distance  north  of  the  head  of  the  Red  Sea,  is 
the  great  highway  across  the  desert  connecting  Pales- 
tine with  Egypt.  Over  this  road  in  all  probability  the 
sons  of  Jacob  passed  when  going  to  Egypt  for  corn,  and 

E* 


244  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

it  is  equally  probable  that  Joseph  and  Mary  with  the 
infant  Christ  traveled  it,  when  fleeing  to  Egypt  to 
escape  the  persecution  of  Herod.  On  this  road  are 
seen  large  caravans  of  wandering  Arabs,  and  pilgrims 
going  to,  and  from  Mecca. 

Across  the  isthmus  of  Suez,  is  the  great  sh'ip  canal, 
to  which  I  just  alluded.  This  canal  is  eighty-four  miles 
long,  three  hundred  feet  wide,  and  intended  to  be  twenty- 
six  feet  deep,  and  when  completed  ships  will  pass  through 
it  directly  from  Europe  to  East  India.  We  traveled 
along  the  whol  e  length  of  this  canal.  On  the  east  part  of 
it  were  many  steam  excavators  engaged  in  removing  dirt 
and  rocks.  On  this  canal  midway  between  the  two 
seas,  is  a  new  town  called  Ishmalia,  and  by  its  side  is  an 
artificial  lake  of  about  one  mile  in  diameter,  filled  with 
water  from  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  Thus  a  commercial 
city  is  being  built  in  the  middle  of  the  desert,  and 
the  rattling  of  cars,  and  pufiing  of  steamers  are  now 
heard  on  these  wild,  sandy  plains.  At  Ishmalia  we 
went  aboard  of  a  small  steamer  running  on  the  canal  to 
Port  Said.  On  our  way  we  passed  a  large  number  of 
steam  dredging  boats  employed  in  deepening  the  canal, 
and  removing  drifting  sand,  which  is  all  the  while 
blowing  into  it. 

Port  Said  is  a  new  place,  situated  on  the  Mediterran- 
ean at  the  mouth  of  the  canal.  It  is  located  on  a  narrow 
neck  of  land,  extending  into  the  sea,  and  its  site  is 
principally  made  of  dirt,  which  was  dredged  out  of  the 
bay  in  making  its  harbor.  It  is  now  a  place  of  great 
commercial   importance,  having  already  taken  much  of 


ISTHMUS      OF      SUEZ.  245 

the  East  India  shiiDping  business  away  from  Alexandria. 
Port  Said  like  Suez,  has  not  a  tree,  or  grass  plat  within 
fifty  miles  of  it,  being  surrounded  by  a  level  sandy  plain? 
which  rises  only  a  few  feet  above  the  sea.  The  water 
to  supply  the  city,  comes  from  the  Nile,  being  taken 
out  of  the  fresh  water  canal  forty  miles  west  of  Suez, 
and  from  here  it  is  brought  forty-four  miles  in  iron  pipes. 
At  Port  Said  we  went  aboard  of  a  steamship  for 
Joppa,  Palestine,  nearly  two  hundred  miles  distant. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


LANTDING  AT  JOPPA. 


On  the  morning  of  the  nineteenth  of  iSTovember  our 
ship,  after  buffeting  the  wind  and  waves  all  night,  came 
to  anchor  at  Joppa.  Here  there  is  no  harbor,  and  the 
coast  is  full  of  rocks,  consequently  large  vessels  are 
obliged  to  lie  at  anchor  about  half  a  mile  from  shore, 
and  passengers  and  freight  are  carried  back  and  forth 
in  row-boats.  When  the  sea  is  rough,  the  transit  is 
both  difficult  and  dangerous,  and  frequently  passengers 
and  freight  for  Joppa  are  carried  by,  it  being  impossible 
to  land  them. 

As  soon  as  our  steamer  came  to  anchor,  she  was 
boarded  by  a  large  number  of  Arabs,  grabbing  hold  of 
baggage,  and  quarreling  among  themselves,  as  to  who 
should  have  the  largest  share  of  passengers.  The  sea 
was  very  rough,  causing  the  row-boats  to  toss  up  and 
down  at  a  fearful  rate,  putting  us  in  great  danger  of  being 
swamped;  this,  together  with  the  quarreling  of  the 
Arabs,  made  the  debarkation  the  most  disagreeable  part 
of  my  travels. 


LANDING      AT      .TOPPA.  247 

On  reaching  the  wharf,  we  found  it  crowded  with 
half  naked,  barbarous  looking  Arabs,  who  were  anxious 
to  assist  us  in  getting  upon  the  pier,  so  they  could  claim 
backsheesh.  When  hinded,  we  were  surrounded  by 
twenty  or  thirty  of  these  leeches,  all  of  whom  claimed 
money  on  the  ground  of  having  assisted  in  pulling  us 
up  on  the  pier.  We  gave  some  of  them  small  pieces  of 
money,  but  this  only  made  them  clamorous  for  more. 
These  Arabs  followed  us  into  the  custom  house,  and 
along  the  streets,  yelling  at  the  top  of  their  voices. 
One  of  them  more  daring  than  the  rest,  struck  an 
Englishman  in  our  company,  on  the  head  with  his 
staff,  and  in  return,  one  of  our  party  pointed  a  revolver 
at  them,  which  caused  them  to  leave  us  in  quick  time, 
when  we  continued  on  our  way. 


CITY  OF  JOPPA. 

The  city  of  Joppa,  (now  called  Jaffa,)  is  built  of  white 
stone,  and  stands  on  a  knoll,  with  the  streets  rising  one 
above  the  other.  It  is  said  to  contain  about  twelve 
thousand  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  Arabs.  From 
the  sea  the  city  has  a  bold  and  imposing  appearance, 
but  on  entering,  all  of  its  romance  disappears,  and  a 
person  will  find  its  distant  view  was  very  deceptive. 
The  streets  are  only  about  eight  feet  wide,  many  of  them 
quite  steep,  being  ascended  by  stone  steps.  In  some 
places  the  streets  are  arched  over,  and  houses  built 
thereon.     Dirt  and   filth  of  every  description  abounds 


248  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

in  the  streets,  and  droves  of  loaded  camels  are  passing 
and  repassing  through  these  narrow  thoroughfares, 
causing  people  to  stand  up  against  the  houses  to  prevent 
collision  with  them. 

We  are  told  by  writers  on  antiquity  that  no  city  in 
Palestine  has  undergone  so  little  change  as  this,  and 
Joppa  to  day  is  much  the  same  as  Joppa  of  two  thousand 
years  ago.  In  former  times,  it  was  the  principal  seaport 
of  Palestine,  and  it  is  so  now.  In  the  days  of  Joshua 
it  is  spoken  of  as  a  maritime  city  allotted  to  Dan,  and 
many  references  are  made  to  it,  both  in  the  Old  and 
New  Testaments.  It  was  here  Jonah  took  shipping 
for  Tarshish,  was  shipwrecked,  and  swallowed  by  a 
great  fish.  Here,  by  the  seaside,  lived  one  Simon,  the 
tanner,  who  entertained  Peter.  We  visited  the  house 
said  to  have  been  Simon's,  and  found  it  close  by  the 
light  house,  where  the  waves  were  beating  against  the 
rocks  at  its  base.  This  house  is  now  unoccupied,  but 
its  stone  floors,  massive  walls,  and  arched  ceilings 
remain  perfect.  We  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  house, 
which  is  flat,  being  covered  with  large  flag  stones,  and 
stood  where  Peter  is  said  to  have  been  when  he  saw 
the  vision.  If  this  is  not  the  house  once  occupied  by 
Simon  the  tanner,  it  answers  well  its  description,  and 
looks  as  though  it  might  have  been  built  long  before  his 
time,  and  I  see  nothing  to  prevent  its  standing  for  two 
thousand  years  to  come.  Some  may  think  it  improbable 
that  a  house  would  stand  for  so  long  a  period,  but  I 
have  seeu  houses  in  the  Jewish  quarters  of  Rome,  still 
occupied,  which  were  built  before  the  Christian  era. 


PLAINS     OF      SHARON".  249 

Outside  of  the  walls  of  Joppa,  and  in  a  beautiful 
orange  grove,  is  located  the  American  Colony,  which 
settled  here  a  few  years  ago  under  the  supervision  of 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Adams.  Their  houses  are  constructed  of 
wood,  painted  white,  and  were  shij^ped  from  Boston  on 
the  same  vessel  that  brought  the  emigrants.  This 
colony  is  not  in  a  flourishing  condition,  many  having 
returned  to  the  United  States,  and  those  remaining  are 
dissatisfied  with  the  country,  and  intend  to  return  also. 
Among  those  remaining  is  a  man  by  the  name  of  Roily 
Floyd,  who  is  now  engaged  in  running  a  hack  between 
Joppa  and  Jerusalem,  and  he  claims  the  honor  of  intro- 
ducing the  first,  and  only  vehicle  into  Palestine. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Joppa  are  many  beautiful  orange 
groves,  the  finest  that  I  have  met  with,  in  all  my 
travels,  and  the  fruit  is  larger  and  better  flavored  than 
elsewhere.  In  Sicily,  the  orange  matures  the  last  of 
October,  but  here  the  trees  were  full  of  fruit,  and  much 
of  it  green,  the  first  of  December. 


PLAINS  or  SHARON. 

The  plains  of  Sharon  extend  from  the  Mediterranean 
Sea,  to  the  mountains  of  Judah,  being  about  eighteen 
miles  in  width,  and  eighty  in  length.  These  plains  are 
spoken  of  in  the  Bible  as  being  the  most  fertile  portion 
of  the  Promised  Land,  for  the  possession  of  which 
the  Israelites  and  Philistines  fought  many  a  bloody 
battle.  A  large  portion  of  this  plain  is  fertile,  and  when 
properly  cultivated  produces  large  crops,  but  it  is  mostly 


250  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

occupied  by  Arabs  who  are  indolent,  and  show  but 
little  skill  in  agriculture.  No  forest  trees,  fencing,  nor 
farm  houses  are  seen  on  this  plain,  but  one  continuous 
open  waste,  [covered  at  the  time  of  our  visit]  with  dry 
grass  and  stubble,  with  here  and  there  an  Arab  village 
surrounded  by  orange  and  fig  trees. 

No  rain  falls  in  this  country  between  March  and 
November,  consequently  during  the  summer  months, 
vegetation  dries  up,  but  becomes  green  again  in  the 
winter.  The  November  rains  having  started  grass  and 
flowers  caused  the  country  in  some  places  to  look  like 
early  spring.  Along  the  road  in  places,  the  ground  was 
covered  with  tulips  and  lilies,  which  will  bloom  in 
January,  making  these  plains  look  at  that  time  like 
a  vast  flower  garden.  We  rode  some  distance  out 
of  our  way,  to  see  the  mammoth  plant  called  the  rose  of 
Sharon,  supposed  to  be  the  flowers  so  often  referred  to  in 
the  songs  of  Solomon.  It  blooms  in  February,  and  the 
flower  is  said  to  be  very  large,  and  of  great  beauty. 

While  traveling  across  these  plains,  we  met  an  old 
Ai*ab  with  a  long,  flowing,  gray  beard,  and  wearing  a 
gown  made  of  camel's  hair,  with  a  leather  girdle  around 
his  loins.  He  was  leading  a  camel  that  looked  almost  as 
ancient  as  himself,  on  the  back  of  which  were  four 
goat  skins  filled  with  water  taken  out  of  the  river  Jordan. 
This  water  was  intended  for  shipment  to  Europe,  for 
baptismal  purposes. 

Farther  on  we  overtook  a  number  of  camels  packing 
goods  and  lumber  from  Joppa  to  Hebron,  some  of  which 
were    loaded   with  boards  sixteen  feet  long.     On   the 


THE      ROAD      TO      JERUSALEM.  251 

back  of  one  of  these  camels  were  two  barrels  of  Amer- 
ican kerosene  oil,  marked  J.  W.  Simpson,  Center  Wells, 
Pennsylvania.  In  company  with  this  caravan  of  packing 
camels,  were  a  nunibei*  of  women  riding  donkeys.  These 
women  had  come  from  Prussia,  and  were  pilgrims  intend- 
ing to  visit  the  holy  places  in  Palestine.  They  had 
already  adopted  the  Oriental  style  of  dress,  being  covered 
up  with  long  black  robes,  and  riding  astride  on  their 
donkeys. 


THE  ROAD  TO  .JERUSALEM. 

Procuring  horses  at  Joppa,  we  left  that  city  in  the 
afternoon  for  Jerusalem,  which  is  thirty-eight  miles 
distant.  Two  miles  from  Joppa  we  reached  the  old 
city  of  Lydda,  where  Peter  sojourned  for  some  time, 
and  performed  miracles.  Ten  miles  farther  on,  we  came 
to  Ramleh,  where  we  stopped  all  night  at  the  Latin 
Convent.  Ramleh  is  a  large  town,  but  has  a  dilapidated 
appearance  with  its  ruined  walls  and  watch  towers, 
which  were  built  by  the  crusaders,  nine  hundred 
years  ago.  In  the  suburbs  of  the  town  are  many  large 
thickets  of  cactus  twenty  feet  or  more  in  hight,  and 
full  of  prickley  pears,  some  of  which  were  ripe  and 
others  green. 

Along  this  road  are  many  watch  towers,  which  were 
built  by  an  appropriation  from  different  governments  of 
Europe,  and  at  one  time  were  occupied  by  Turkish 
soldiers  to  protect  the  road  from  robbers,  so  that  pil- 
grims could  pass   with   safety,  to  and  from  Jerusalem. 


252  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

At  diiFerent  places  on  the  way,  we  passed  large 
companies  of  men  and  women  at  work  on  the  great 
carriage  road  now  being  constructed  by  the  government 
between  Joppa  and  Jerusalem.  By  these  workmen,  no 
shovels,  wheel-barrows,  or  carts  are  used;  the  dirt 
being  carried  in  baskets,  placed  on  women's  heads. 
And  the  stone  for  building  culverts,  and  macadamizing 
the  road,  is  brought  from  the  mountain  on  the  backs  of 
camels. 

After  traveling  twenty-two  miles  on  the  plains  of 
Sharon,  we  came  to  the  mountains  of  Judah,  and  found 
the  road  across  them  very  good,  but  the  country  is 
rocky,  barren,  and  desolate,  without  forest,  grass,  or 
verdure  of  any  kind  at  this  season  of  the  year,  except 
here  and  there  an  olive  orchard,  or  a  few  scattering  fig 
trees. 

The  people  here  live  in  villages,  and  are  engaged  in 
a  pastoral  life;  men  are  seen  herding  their  flocks  of 
sheep  and  goats,  while  women  are  passing  to  and  fro, 
carrying  water  from  a  neighboring  pool  or  well,  in 
earthen  jars  placed  on  their  heads,  the  same  as  they  did 
two  thousand  years  ago. 

In  a  deep  gorge  of  the  mountain  called  robber's  glen, 
the  place  was  pointed  out  where  thirty  years  ago  the 
governor  of  Jerusalem  and  his  guard  were  killed  by  a 
band  of  robbers  headed  by  their  chieftian,  Abou  Gaush. 
This  band  of  robbers  infested  the  mountains  for  many 
years,  setting  law  at  defiance,  and  levying  tribute  on 
travelers.  At  last  the  band  was  broken  up,  and  their 
chief  executed. 


THE      ROAD      TO      JERUSALEM.  253 

Two  miles  from  Jerusalem,  we  met  the  Governor  of 
Palestine  with  his  guard  of  mounted  dragoons,  and  a 
large  retinue  of  high  dignitaries  of  church  and  state, 
all  of  whom  raised  their  hats  to  us,  and  we  returned  the 
compliment. 

We  had  become  very  impatient  to  obtain  a  glimpse 
of  the  Holy  City,  but  as  we  reached  the  summit  of  a  hill, 
we  found  one  still  higher  beyond  it.  At  last  Jerusalem 
with  its  massive  walls,  and  high  domes  came  in  sight, 
which  created  in  me  an  enthusiasm  that  I  never  had 
felt  before,  on  approaching  a  strange  city.  Some  of 
our  American  friends  became  so  enthusiastic,  that  they 
put  their  horses  on  a  gallop,  and  rode  up  to  the  gate  of 
the  city,  swinging  their  hats,  and  hallooing  like  rowdies 
at  a  political  meeting.  A  telegram  from  Joppa  having 
reached  Jerusalem  the  evening  before,  that  a  party  of 
English  and  Americans  were  on  the  road,  caused  us  to 
be  met  outside  of  the  city  walls  by  a  number  of  our  own 
countrymen,  who  expected  to  find  among  us,  some  of 
their  friends,  but  were  doomed  to  disappointment. 

On  entering  the  city  at  the  Joppa  Gate,  we  were 
stopped  by  customhouse  officers,  demanding  an  examin- 
ation of  baggage,  but  our  baggage  having  already  passed 
through  the  custom  house  at  Joppa,  was  not  liable  to 
inspection  here.  This,  the  officers  well  knew,  but  they 
contended  for  backsheesh,  claiming  two  shillings  for  each 
valise,  which  we  refused  to  pay.  Further  on,  we  were 
again  stopped  by  officers  demanding  passports,  which 
we  produced.  Our  dragoman  told  us  to  let  the  officers 
read  them,  but  not  give  them   up,  as    it   would   cost  us 


254  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

money  and  much  trouble  to  get  them  back  again. 
Taking  his  advice,  we  held  our  passports  while  the 
officers  continued  to  pull  on  them,  ordering  us  to  let  go, 
but  having  met  with  cases  like  this  before,  we  gave  no 
heed  to  their  demands.  Here  we  remained  for  some 
time,  the  officers  holding  our  passports,  as  well  as  our 
horse's  heads,  while  our  dragoman  flourished  his  cane 
over  their  heads,  calling  them  thieves  and  robbers  for 
detaining  us  without  authority.  At  last  they  offered  to 
let  us  go  on  the  payment  of  five  shillings  each ;  this  we 
refused  to  do,  but  told  them  if  further  detained,  we 
would  appeal  to  the  British  Consul  for  redress  against 
this  outrage.  At  this  threat  they  loosed  our  horses  and 
passports,  and  we  continued  our  way  into  the  city. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


JERUSALEM. 


The  city  of  Jerusalem  is  located  on  the  eastern  slope 

of  the  mountains  of  Judah,  thirty-eight  miles  from  the 

Mediterranean,  and  fourteen  from  the  Dead  Sea,  and  at 

an  elevation  of  nearly  four  thousand  feet  above  the  latter. 

It  stands  on  four  hills  known  as  follows  :  Mt.  Zion,  Mt. 

Moriah,  Akra,  and  Bezetha.     The  former  two  are  in  the 

south  part,  and  the  latter  two  in  the  north  part  of  the 

city.     On  the  east  side  of  the  city,  and  close  under  its 

walls,  is  the  valley  of  Jehosaphat,  and  on  the  west  side 

is   the    valley  of  Gehenna.     At  the  junction   of  these 

two  valleys,  which  is   about   a  half  mile  from  the  city, 

the  ground  is  over  five  hundred  feet  below  its  common 

level.     South    of    the   city   walls,   and   between    these 

valleys  is  a  piece  of  table-land  covered  with  stone  and 

rubbish    from    ruined    buildings,    and    decayed    walls. 

North  of  the  city,  is  another  piece  of  land  covered  over 

in  a  like  manner,  showing  that  both  of  these  tracts  at 

one  time  were  within  the  walls,  and  constituted  a  part 
of  the  city. 


256  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Jerusalem  is  surrounded  by  walls  two  aud  a  half  miles 
in  length,  fifteen  feet  thick,  and  from  forty  to  seventy 
feet  high.  The  top  of  these  walls  are  ornamented 
with  cornice  work,  and  guarded  on  either  side  by  terrace 
walls,  so  that  a  person  can  walk  on  them,  entirely  around 
the  city.  A  short  distance  apart  are  towers  mounted 
with  cannon,  and  containing  quarters  for  soldiers. 
Through  the  walls  of  these  towers  are  port  holes,  so  the 
guards  can  fire  on  the  enemy  in  time  of  war. 

There  are  five  gates  through  the  walls,  named  as 
follows:  Jopi^a,  Damascus,  St.  Stephen,  Mt.  Zion,  and 
Dirty  Gate,  the  latter  being  used  only  for  carrying  out 
filth  of  the  city.  Beside  these  five  is  the  Golden  Gate  on 
Mt.  Moriah,  which  is  now  walled  up.  The  walls  at  these 
gates  are  high  and  thick,  and  the  passage  through  them 
turns  in  the  center,  so  that  things  on  the  inside  cannot 
be  seen.  During  the  day  time  these  gates  are  guarded 
by  soldiers,  but  at  dark  their  great  iron  shutters  are 
locked,  which  cuts  off  all  communication  between  the 
city  and  country. 

From  the  summit  of  Mt.  Olivet,  Jerusalem  has  quite 
an  imposing  appearance  with  its  high  walls  running 
zigzag  in  various  directions,  and  ornamented  at  the  top 
with  cornice  work.  Its  many  mosques  with  high  domes 
and  countless  minarets,  and  houses  having  dome  roofs, 
all  built  of  white  stone,  will  remind  a  person  of  the 
description  given  of  it  in  the  day  of  Josephus.  But 
upon  entering  the  city,  all  its  pomp  and  grandeur  is  lost, 
and  a  person  is  apt  to  reconsider  his  first  impressions. 
Its  streets   are  dark,  dirty  alleys,  crowded   with    filthy 


JEKUSALEM.  257 

looking  Arabs,  camels,  donkeys,  and  dogs,  while  offen- 
sive smells  rising  from  various  kinds  of  nuisances,  fill 
the  nasal  organs  at  every  turn.  The  streets  do  not 
exceed  ten  feet  in  width,  and  are  paved  with  rough 
stone ;  many  of  them  are  arched  over  at  the  top  with 
houses  built  thereon,  which  form  long,  dark  arcades, 
where  the  light  of  day  is  admitted  through  openings 
in  the  walls,  at  long  intervals.  In  these  dark  caverns, 
people  live,  have  stores  or  shops  of  trade,  and  transact 
business,  the  same  as  in  other  streets  of  the  city. 

The  buildings  are  mostly  three  stories  high,  con- 
structed entirely  of  stone,  except  doors  and  windows, 
havino^  stone  floors,  and  stone  arched  ceilins:  in  each 
room.  Many  of  the  houses  are  without  window  glass, 
its  place  being  supplied  by  iron  bars.  Some  of  the 
houses  have  domes  on  their  top,  others  are  flat,  and  used 
for  flower  gardens,  goat  yards,  play  grounds  for  children, 
a  place  for  drying  clothes,  and  frequently  containing  a 
praying  post,  by  the  side  of  which  the  head  of  the  family 
goes  night  and  morning  to  pray.  The  lower  stories 
are  mostly  used  for  stores,  shops,  or  stabling  for  donkeys 
and  camels,  while  the  families  live  up  stairs.  There  is 
no  gas  used  here,  and  all  business  places  close  at  dark, 
when  stillness  and  gloom  reigns  throughout  the  city. 
But  few  people  are  seen  on  the  streets  after  dark,  as 
the  police  are  authorized  to  arrest  any  one  found  at 
night  unless  carrying  a  lantern.  Water  to  supply  the 
city  is  carried  through  the  streets  in  goat  skins  on  the 
backs  of  donkeys  or  camels,  and  sold  to  the  occupants 
of  each   house.     Stone,   lumber,  mortar,  and    all  kinds 


258  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

of    produce,    merchandize,    etc.,  are    carried    in  a   like 
manner. 

No  wao-on  or  carriage  had  ever  been  seen  within  the 
walls  of  Jerusalem,  until  a  short  time  since  Mr.  Floyd, 
the  Yankee  hackman  drove  his  carriage  through  Joppa 
gate,  and  along  the  street  as  far  as  the  Mediterranean 
hotel  to  the  great  astonishment  of  the  people,  most  of 
whom  had  never  seen  any  thing  on  wheels  before. 
Large  crowds  of  people  followed  the  carriage,  blocking 
up  the  street,  and  the  trouble  he  had  in  turning  around, 
and  getting  out  again,  discouraged  him  from  making  a 
like  attempt  again. 

The  population  of  Jerusalem  is  estimated  at  twenty- 
five  thousand,  but  varies  at  different  periods,  according 
to  the  number  of  Christian  and  Jewish  pilgrims  sojourn- 
ing here.  The  Christian  population  is  said  to  number 
four  thousand,  the  greater  portion  of  whom  are  converted 
Arabs,  being  nominally  Christians  for  a  pecuniary 
consideration,  inasmuch  as  they  recieve  part  of  their 
support  from  the  Mt.  Zion  Mission. 

The  accompanying  view  of  Jerusalem  is  taken  from 
the  south-west,  on  the  Hill  of  Evil  Council,  and  does 
not  show  its  beautiful  walls.  To  the  right  is  seen  the 
Mosque  of  Omar  on  Mt.  Moriah.  To  the  left  on  the 
southern  slope  of  Mt.  Zion  is  to  be  seen  the  Turkish 
mosque  covering  the  tomb  of,  David,  as  well  as  the 
buildings  around  the  pool  of  Hezekiah.  The  large 
dome  seen  in  the  background  is  on  the  church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre. 


SIGHTS      IN      JERUSALEM.  261 

A  walk  through  the  streets  of  Jerusalem  is  very 
amusing  to  a  stranger,  as  he  will  see  many  strange 
things  which  are  peculiar  to  the  city,  and  seldom  met 
with  elsewhere.  In  some  places  the  whole  front  part 
of  the  building  is  open  to  the  street,  and  a  person  can 
see  what  is  being  transacted  within.  Here  can  be  seen 
public  dining  rooms  where  people  are  seated  cross-legged 
on  the  floor,  eating  without  knives  or  forks.  Next  a 
school  room  with  the  teacher  sitting  in  the  middle  of 
the  room,  and  on  the  stone  floor,  while  his  pupils  are 
seated  around  him  in  a  like  manner.  Then  a  barber  is 
seen  at  work,  who  is  also  seated  on  the  floor,  with  his 
customers  head  in  his  lap,  and  the  head  is  being  shaved 
instead  of  the  face,  which  is  the  custom  among  Arabs. 
Women  are  seen  dressed  in  long,  white  robes,  with 
masks  over  their  faces,  without  hats  or  bonnets,  having 
a  shawl  or  blanket  over  their  heads.  Some  mounted 
on  a  donkey  riding  astride,  and  covered  up  with  their 
long,  white  robe,  so  that  no  part  of  their  person  is 
visible,  causing  them  to  look  more  like  a  bale  of  cotton 
on  the  donkey,  than  a  human  being.  Men  are  some- 
times seen  sitting  cross-legged  on  the  ground,  smoking 
long,  Turkish  pipes  with  a  vessel  of  water  before  them 
through  which  the  pipe  stem  passes  to  cool  the  smoke. 

One  day  as  our  party  were  riding  through  the  streets, 
we  found  ourselves  confronted  by  two  camels  loaded  with 
roots,  which  are  used  here  for  fuel.  These  enormous 
loads  of  roots  which  looked  like  a  huge  brush  heap, 
completely  filled  up  the  street,  so  there  was  no  passing. 
We    turned    back  to   take   another   street,  but  to    our 

G* 


262  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

surprise  met  other  camels  loaded  with  a  like  material. 
Here  we  were  hemmed  in  on  all  sides,  without  means  of 
escape.  An  effort  was  made  to  back  the  camels,  and 
also  to  turn  them  around,  but  their  load  coming  in 
contact  with  the  buildings  caused  them  to  bawl,  and 
become  unmanageable.  At  this  state  of  affairs  our 
dragoman  lost  all  patience,  cursing  the  camels,  as  well 
as  their  drivers,  and  repeating  his  oaths  in  English,  so 
that  we  might  know  that  he  was  doing  justice  to  the 
case.  At  last  the  camels  were  made  to  lie  dow^n,  and 
we  dismounted,  to  lead  our  horses  by  them,  but  not 
without  damage  to  our  clothing,  as  it  came  in  contact 
with  the  roots. 


lepers'  quarters. 

In  the  south  part  of  the  city  near  Mt.  Zion  Gate,  is 
located  the  lepers'  quarters,  surrounded  by  an  inner 
wall,  which  separates  it  from  other  parts  of  the  city. 
Within  these  walls  all  the  lepers  of  the  city  live,  and 
are  not  allowed  to  mingle  with  people  elsewhere,  but 
here  in  this  loathsome  place,  they  are  born,  and  die.  I 
went  through  these  leper  quarters,  a  long,  narrow  street, 
dark,  and  gloomy  looking  alleys,  where  the  poverty, 
misery,  and  degradation,  exceeded  any  thing  that  I  had 
ever  seen.  Little  children,  old  nien  and  women,  as  well 
as  young  men  and  maidens,  collected  around  me,  with 
piteous  cries  for  alms.  These  lepers,  still,  as  in  ancient 
times,  are  considered  unclean,  and  are  shunned  by  all 
people  on  account  of  their  loathsome  appearance,  as  well 


TRADITIONAL      PLACES.  263 

as  fear  of  contagion.  Ontside  of  their  quarters,  they 
will  not  approach  near  any  one,  but  keep  themselves  at  a 
respectful  distance.  The  disease  preys  on  all  parts  of  the 
body,  and  makes  its  appearance  in  various  forms;  some 
with  red  swollen  faces  and  limbs,  the  hair  of  their  heads, 
beard,  and  eyebrows,  having  fallen  off;  others  with 
their  chin  or  nose  eaten  off,  and  many  of  their  fingers 
and  toes  missing.  The  leprosy  is  hereditary,  and  those 
afBcted  with  it,  intermarry,  thus  entailing  this  dreadful 
disease  on  their  posterity.  I  saw  young  babes  with  this 
disease,  the  skin  almost  black,  and  covered  over  with 
running  sores,  being  a  mass  of  corruption.  With  other 
chidren  who  were  almost  grown  the  disease  had  not  yet 
made  its  appearance.  Persons  who  have  drawn  their 
ideas  of  this  horrible  disease  from  the  Bible  account, 
will  have  a  strange  sensation  when  coming  in  contact 
with  these  lepers. 

Outside  of  the  Joppa  and  Mt.  Zion  gates,  many  of 
these  lepers  are  seen  sitting  on  the  ground  from  morning 
until  night,  begging  alms  from  those  passing  by.  Their 
distorted  faces,  swollen  limbs,  and  hairless  heads, 
together  with  their  piteous  wailings,  are  sickening  to 
behold. 


TRADITIONARY  PLACES  IN  JERUSALEM. 

Jerusalem  is  full  of  traditionary  places,  almost  every 
place  spoken  of  in  the  Bible  being  now  pointed  out  to  a 
stranger.  Many  of  these  places  are  purely  imaginary 
while  in  others,  everybody  appear  to  have  full  confidence 


264  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

as  to  their  genuineness.  Daring  my  fifteen  days  stay  in 
Jerusalem,  I  visited  almost  every  place  of  interest,  not 
only  in  the  city,  but  in  its  surroundings,  and  seeing  the 
permanent  manner  in  which  these  buildings  were  con- 
structed has  changed  ray  mind  with  regard  totbem.  In- 
stead of  being  skeptical  on  this  point,  I  became  a  believer 
in  the  genuineness  of  many  of  these  traditionary  places. 

In  the  south  part  of  Jerusalem  is  located  Mt.  Zion, 
much  celebrated  in  all  ages  of  Jewish  history ;  on  it 
stood  the  palace  of  David  and  Solomon,  as  well  as  other 
kings  of  Judah.  On  its  southern  slope  is  the  tomb  of 
David,  over  which  is  built  a  mosque,  now  guarded 
by  Turkish  soldiers.  On  the  summit  of  Mt.  Zion, 
stands  the  Tower  of  David,  consisting  of  a  massive  stone 
structure  fifty-five  feet  high,  and  mounted  with  cannon. 
Near  this  is  pointed  out  the  palace  of  Caiaphas,  the  high 
priest,  W'here  the  scribes  and  elders  met  to  take  council 
against  Christ. 

North  of  Mt.  Zion  there  is  a  slight  eminence, 
known  as  Mt.  Calvary,  on  which  is  located  the  church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  originally  built  by  order  of 
Empress  Helena,  in  A.  D.  326.  This  church  is  said  to 
occupy  the  place  where  Christ  was  crucified  and 
entombed,  and  contains  many  things  relating  to  that 
event.  The  church  is  a  very  large  one,  and  contains 
three  chapels,  one  each  for  the  Latins,  Greek,  and 
Armenians.  In  the  center  of  the  building  is  a  large 
rotunda  capped  by  a  beautiful  dome.  In  one  part  of  the 
church  is  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  purporting  to  be  the 
place  wdiere  Christ  was  laid.     This  consists  of  a  room, 


TRADITIONAL     PLACES.  265 

eight  feet  square,  cut  out  of  the  native  rock,  and  cased 
with  white  marble.  Around  the  entrance  of  this  vault 
are  forty-two  silver  and  gold  lamps,  which  are  kept 
burning  day  and  niglit.  At  all  hours  of  the  day,  people 
are  seen  kneeling  before  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  kissing 
the  rock  of  Divine  Unction,  v\'hile  their  loud  weeping 
and  wailings,  frequently  bring  tears  to  the  eyes  of  the 
bystanders.  There  are  many  things  here  relating  to 
Christ's  crucifixion,  such  as  a  part  of  the  veil  of  the 
temple,  two  large  rocks  which  were  rent,  also  the  rock 
with  a  hole  in  it,  on  which  the  cross  was  erected. 

Being  provided  with  lights,  and  conducted  by  a  guide, 
we  examined  the  basement  of  this  church  which  is 
carved  out  of  a  solid  rock,  and  in  which  we  saAv  many 
of  the  wonderful  things  of  Mt.  Calvary.  Through  the 
different  parts  of  the  church,  as  well  as  outside- of  its 
walls,  are  stationed  Turkish  soldiers  to  guard  these 
sacred  places,  and  to  prevent  the  Christian  pilgrims 
cutting  each  othei's'  throats. 

In  the  east  part  of  the  city,  near  Mt.  Moriah,  is  located 
the  palace  of  Pilate,  consisting  of  a  large,  ancient  looking 
edifice,  which  is  now  occupied  by  officers  connected 
with  the  government.  On  the  outside  of  this  building 
are  still  to  be  seen  marks  in  the  wall,  where  stairs  had 
evidently  been  taken  out.  Here,  said  our  dragoman,  is 
where  once  stood  the  holy  stairs  which  Christ  ascended 
to  the  judgment  seat  of  Pilate.  I  had  seen  these  holy 
stairs  at  Rome,  in  the  church  of  St.  John  Laterena,  and 
counted  the  steps,  which  correspond  with  the  marks  in 
the  wall,  being  twenty-eight  each.     From  the  palace  of 


266  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Pilate  to  Mt.  Calvary,  is  nearly  a  half  mile,  and  the  street 
connecting  these  points  is  called  the  Sorrowful  Way, 
along  which  Christ  is  said  to  have  passed,  bearing  his 
cross  to  the  place  of  crucifixion.  Processions  are 
sonietiraes  formed  by  priests,  monks,  and  pilgrims,  to 
march  from  the  palace  of  Pilate  to  Calvary,  along  the 
Sorrowful  Way,  and  their  cries  and  lamentations  can  be 
heard  above  all  other  noise  of  the  city. 

Near  the  harem,  on  Mt.  Moriah,  is  still  to  be  seen  the 
pool  of  Bethesda,  and  also  the  celebrated  tower  of 
Antonio,  both  of  which  are  now  in  a  state  of  ruins. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  temple  walls,  can  be  seen  the 
remains  of  a  bridge  across  the   Tyropean   valley,  which 
connected    Mt.    Zion    with  Mt.    Moriah.     This   bridge 
according  to  Josephus,  was  built  by  Solomon,  and  over 
it,  he    passed    in    going  back   and    forth  to  worship  in 
the  temple,  and  in  all  probability  it  was  one  of  the  great 
works  of  Israel's  king  that    astonished    the    Queen   of 
Sheba.     There  are  five    arches    in  this    bridge,  each    of 
which  is  forty-one  feet  in  width,  but  only  apart  of  one 
of  these   is  above     ground,    and    this     is     constructed 
of  large    stone,   twenty   feet   long,  by    six   feet   thick. 
Within  the  last  year.  Lieutenant  Warren,  of  the  English 
Excavating  Company,  has  sunk  a  number  of  shafts  here, 
which  show  the  foundation   of  the   bridge,  as   well   as 
the  original   ground   in  the  valley  to  be  sixty  feet  below 
the  present  level  of  the  street. 

MOUNT   MOllIAH. 

Tn  the  east  part  of  Jerusalem,  between  Mt.  Zion,  and  the 


MOUNT    MORIAH.  267 

mount  of  Olives,  is  located  Mt.  Moriah,  on  which  once 
stood  the  temple  of  Solomon.  This  place  is  called  the 
harem  (a  sacred  place),  being  surrounded  by  an  inner 
wall,  and  the  gate  leading  therein  is  guarded  by  soldiers, 
and  no  one  but  Mohammedans  is  allowed  to  enter  it 
without  a  pass.  For  more  than  six  hundred  years,  Mt. 
Moriah  was  secluded  from  both  Christians  and  Jews,  and 
any  one  found  therein  forfeited  his  life,  as  the  guards  were 
authorized  to  slay  all  infidels  found  in  this  sacred  place. 
But  of  late  years  this  principle  of  intolerance  has  been 
modified  so  that  strangers  are  admitted  by  having  a 
pass  from  the  Governor  of  Jerusalem,  when  they  are 
accompanied  by  a  file  of  soldiers,  and  everything  of 
interest  pointed  out. 

Mt.  Moriah  is  the  lowest  of  the  four  hills  on  which 
Jerusalem  is  built.  Between  it  and  Mt.  Zion  lies  the 
Tyropean  valley,  once  a  deep  ravine  with  rocky  sides. 
But  with  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city,  as  well  as  the 
washing  of  many  centuries,  this  valley  is  now  almost 
filled  up  to  the  common  level  of  the  city.  Near  the 
south-west  corner  of  the  wall  which  surrounds  Mt. 
Moriah,  is  the  place  of  wailing.  Here  the  wall  is  con- 
structed of  large  stone  of  twenty  feet  or  more  in  length 
and  is  said  to  have  been  put  there  by  Solomon.  By  this 
wall  we  found  a  number  of  Jews  praying,  weeping,  and 
wailing  over  what  they  called  the  only  relic  of  the 
ancient  temple.  These  Jews  had  come  here  as  pilgrims 
from  foreign  countries.  One  of  whom  was  an  old  man 
with  a  long,  white  beard,  with  tears  running  down  his 
furrowed  cheeks.     He  said  that  he  was  a  Jewish  Rabbi, 


268  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

and  lived  in  England,  having  traveled  a  distance  of 
four  thousand  miles  to  see  the  Holy  City,  and  was 
denied  the  privilege  of  visiting  the  site  of  the  temple 
a  place  regarded  by  Jews  as  the  most  sacred  spot  on 
earth. 

Being  provided  with  the  necessary  papers,  and 
accompanied  by  a  file  of  solders,  as  well  as  our  drago- 
man, we  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  Mt.  Moriah,  and 
walking  over  the  ground  once  trod  by  Abraham,  David 
and  Solomon,  and  also  by  Christ,  and  the  Apostles. 
There  are  about  thirty  acres  enclosed  within  the  walls, 
containing  many  paved  walks  and  small  flower  plats,  with 
a  few  cypress  trees,  and  other  shrubbery.  Near  the 
center  of  the  enclosure  is  the  mosque  of  Omar,  occupy- 
ing the  site  of  the  ancient  temple.  This  building 
stands  on  a  marble  base  elevated  above  the  level  of  the 
ground,  and  is  nearly  round,  with  a  large  dome  in  the 
center.  Mohammedans  regard  this  mosque,  after  their 
parent  one  at  Mecca  the  finest  in  the  world,  but  to 
me  it  appears  more  showy  than  grand.  In  passing 
through  it,  we  were  provided  with  slippers  so  that  our 
boots  might  not  defile  the  holy  place.*  Here  within  the 
walls  of  the  harem  are  many  other  mosques  and  public 
buildings,  some  of  which  are  used  as  institutions  of 
learning,  and  all  show  signs  of  great  antiquity.  Close 
to  the  Mosque  of  Omar  is  the  sacred  rock,  rising  ten  or 
twelve  feet  above  ground,  and  about  fifty  feet  square, 
and  showing  no  marks  of  the  chisel  or  hammer  as  far 
as  I  could  see.     It  is  surrounded  by  an  iron  gilt  railing 


*  For  a  view  of  this  mosque  see  frontispiece. 


TRADITIONARY      PLACES.  269 

and  covered  by  a  silk  awning,  being  regarded  the  most 
sacred  spot  in  the  harem. 

Tradition  locates  many  of  the  great  events  narrated 
in  the  Bible  as  having  occured  on  this  rock,  all  of 
which  were  explained  to  us  by  our  dragoman.  As 
Abraham  came  journeying  from  Beersheba  with  his  son 
Isaac,  he  ascended  Mt.  Moriah,  and  on  this  rock  offered 
him  up  as  a  sacrifice,  when  his  hand  was  stayed  by  an 
angel.  Many  centuries  afterwards,  Oman  the  Jebusite 
occupied  the  base  of  this  rock  as  a  threshing  floor,  when 
the  avenging  angel  appeared  sword  in  hand  threatening 
the  destruction  of  the  Holy  City,  and  scaring  away 
Oman  and  his  four  sons.  David  having  seen  the  angel 
from  the  hight  of  Mt.  Zion,  and  to  avert  the  threatening 
evil,  bought  the  threshing  floor  of  Oman  for  six  hundred 
shekles  of  gold,  and  built  an  altar  thereon.  It  was  on 
this  rock,  fronting  the  temple,  that  sacrifices  were  offered 
up  in  all  ages  of  Judaism,  from  the  days  of  David  to 
the  destruction  of  Jerusalem  by  the  Roman  army. 
These,  and  many  other  things  relating  to  Bible  history 
the  dragoman  explained  to  us,  after  which  he  gave  us  a 
few  passages  from  the  Koran,  relating  to  Mohammedan 
faith. 

When  Mohammed  made  his  celebrated  tour  from 
Mecca  to  Jerusalem,  and  thence  through  the  heavens, 
he  ascended  from  this  rock.  Here  was  pointed  out 
to  us  the  prints  of  his  feet,  also  the  the  marks  of  the 
angels  hands,  made  by  holding  the  rock  down  so  as  to 
prevent  it  from  taking  an  aerial  voyage  with  the  prophet, 
and  many  other  miraculous  things  relating  to  Mohammed. 

H* 


270  "BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

At  this  Statement  one  of  our  party  stopped  the  dragoman 
hi  his  eloquent  narration,  by  telling  him  that  he  did  not 
wish  to  hear  any  more  on  that  subject,  as  the  feet  and 
hand  marks  were  too  much  for  him  to  believe.  At  these 
remarks  the  dragoman  grew  angry,  saying  that  such 
infidels  as  we  were,  never  should  have  been  allowed  to 
enter  the  harem,  and  walk  over  these  sacred  grounds. 

Under  the  ground  are  found  many  vaulted  chambers 
with  long  colonades  running  in  various  directions,  which 
constituted  a  part  of  the  temple.  At  one  place  there  is  a 
pool  of  water,  said  to  be  the  fountain  which  supplies 
that  of  the  Virgin,  and  pool  of  Siloam.  In  different 
parts  of  the  enclosure,  shafts  have  been  sunk  by  the 
English  Excavating  Company,  showing  in  some  places 
the  foundation  of  the  temple  to  be  sixty  or  seventy  feet 
under  ground,  I  have  talked  with  Jews  living  at  Jeru- 
salem, who  believe  that  the  ark  of  the  covenant,  the 
mercy  seat,  and  cherubims,  all  made  of  solid  gold  now 
lie  hidden  in  some  of  these  vaults  under  the  temple, 
and  at  some  future  day  they  will  be  found  and  restored  to 
Israel.  Close  to  the  mosque  of  Omar,  is  the  golden  gate, 
passing  through  the  outer  wall  in  the  direction  of  Beth- 
any. Through  this  gate,  Christ  is  said  to  have  passed 
when  he  made  his  grand  entry  into  Jerusalem.  It  is  now^ 
walled  up,  and  no  use  made  of  it.  At  this  point  we 
ascended  the  wall,  which  is  here,  thirty  feet  high  on  the 
inside  and  seventy  feet  on  the  outside,  overlooking  the 
valley  of  Jehoshaphat  which  lies  almost  under  it,  and 
beyond,  which  is  the  mount  of  Olives. 

While    walking  over  Mt.  Moriah,  many  of  the  great 


TRADITIONAL     PLACES,  271 

events  which  transpired  here,  were  brought  fresh  to  my 
mind,  and  I  found  myself  lost  in  meditation.  On  this 
spot  the  Jews  made  their  last  defence  against  the  army 
of  Titus.  Having  taken  refuge  within  the  temple  walls, 
it  being  their  last  stronghold,  here  they  were  overpowered 
and  slain  by  thousands.  Many  centuries  afterwards  the 
crusaders  beseiored  the  Moslem  hordes  entrenched  on  this 
ground,  when  the  same  barbarous  excesses  were  again 
enacted,  and  twelve  thousand  Mohammedans  were  slain. 
History  says  this  area  at  the  time  of  the  slaughter  was 
ankle  deep  in  blood. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


SUEROUNDINGS  OF  JERUSALEM. 

After  spending  some  days  in  seeing  sights  within  the 
walls  of  Jerusalem,  we  made  a  number  of  excursions  in 
its  vicinity.  Passing  out  at  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen  we 
came  to  the  place  where  tradition  says  the  Apostle  was 
stoned  to  death.  From  here  we  crossed  the  valley  of 
Jehoshaphat,  and  visited  the  garden  of  Gethsemane, 
which  is  situated  on  the  western  slope  of  the  mount  of 
Olives.  This  garden  consists  of  a  small  piece  of  ground 
not  exceeding  one  acre,  enclosed  by  a  high  stone  wall, 
and  guarded  by  a  monk,  who  admitted  us  when  we 
rang  the  bell  at  the  gate.  Here  in  the  garden  are  many 
flower  beds,  between  which  are  paved  walks,  bordered 
by  box,  and  other  ornamental  shrubs.  Within  the  walls  of 
the  garden  are  eight  old  olive  trees,  the  largest  of  which 
I  measured,  and  found  to  be  nineteen  feet  in  circum- 
ference. The  monk  pointed  out  to  us  many  places 
connected  with  the  acts  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles,  not 
forgetting  to  show  us  the  spot  where  Judas  stood  when 


SUEROrNDINGS      OF      JERUSALEM.  273 

he  received  the  thirty  pieces  of  silver.  I  gave  the 
monk  in  attendance  two  shillings  for  his  kind  attention 
to  us,  and  in  return  he  picked  for  me  a  beautiful 
bouquet  of  Oriental  flowers,  part  of  which  I  brought 
home   as   a  memento. 

From  the  garden  of  Gethsemane,  we  ascended  the 
mount  of  Olives,  which  is  the  highest  point  around 
Jerusalem,  and  from  its  summit  the  whole  country  for 
miles  can  be  seen.  Here  on  the  summit  is  a  small  Arab 
village  containing  a  Turkish  mosque,  and  also  a  small 
Latin  chapel  called  the  Church  of  Ascension.  Of  the 
tall  cedars  covering  the  summit  of  this  mountain,  and  the 
beautiful  palms  along  its  slope,  described  by  Josephus, 
not  one  is  now  to  be  seen.  A  few  olive  and  fig  trees, 
with  here  and  there  a  small  piece  of  cultivated  land, 
between  piles  of  stone  and  bowlders  are  all  that  is 
now  seen  on  this  desolate  mountain. 

On  the  southern  slope  of  the  mount  of  Olives  are  the 
tombs  of  the  prophets,  consisting  of  catacombs  cut  out 
of  the  rock  which  can  be  explored  by  the  assistance  of  a 
guide  carrying  lights.  Close  by  these  tombs,  tradition 
points  out  the  place  of  Christ's  ascension. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  stands 
Absalom's  pillar,  or  tomb,  which  consists  of  a  large  open 
base  or  pedestal,  and  from  which  rises  a  shaft  ornamented 
with  columns  and  pilasters,  fifty-two  feet  high.  PeojDle 
passing  this  tomb  throw  stones  in  at  the  windows,  out 
of  contempt  for  the  rebellious  son  of  David,  until  a 
large  pile  of  stone  and  rubbish  has  accumulated  many 
feet  in   hight.     Near   Absalom's   Pillar,  is  the  tomb  of 


274  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Zechariah,  cut  in  a  solid  rock  and  a  monument  built 
thereon.  Here,  too,  is  the  tomb  of  Jehoshaphat,  having 
a  large  doorway,  highly  ornamented  with  carved  work, 
and  showing  much  beauty  in  its  construction.  Most  all 
writers  on  the  antiquities  of  Palestine,  believe  these 
tombs  to  be  genuine,  and  built  at  the  time  they  purport 
to  have  been. 

From  these  ancient  tombs  we  followed  down  the  val- 
ley of  Jehoshaphat,  along  the  brook  Kedron,  (which  is 
dry  except  during  the  winter  rains,)  until  we  came  to  the 
village  of  Siloam.  This  village  consists  of  a  few  houses 
built  on  a  rocky  cliff,  and  has  a  very  ancient  appearance. 
Opposite  the  village,  is  to  be  seen  the  pool  of  Siloam, 
which  has  been  so  often  referred  to  in  the  Bible,  as 
a  place  where  miracles  were  wi'ought.  In  descending 
to  this  pool,  we  went  down  a  flight  of  sixteen  stone  steps 
to  a  wide  stone  platform,  and  from  here  is  another 
flight  of  steps  descending  to  the  w^ater.  The  water  in 
the  pool  is  a  running  stream  of  about  fifteen  inches 
depth,  from  which  is  a  large  tunnel  conveying  to 
other  places.  On  the  upper  side  of  the  pool,  there 
is  a  tunnel  about  six  feet  wide,  and  eight  feet  high, 
cut  out  of  native  rock,  through  which  the  water  flows 
from  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin,  three  hundred  feet 
above.  Women  from  the  village  were  here  after  water, 
and  would  go  down  into  it  with  their  feet,  while  they 
filled  their  jars  and  goat  skins,  the  same  as  they  did  at 
the  time  of  Christ. 

The  road  leading  from  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen  to  the 
garden  of  Gethsemane  crosses  the  brook  Kedron  on   a 


SUEROUNDINGS      OF      JEETSALEM.         275 

Stone  bridge  of  some  twenty  feet  in  hight.  After  cross- 
ing this  bridge  we  came  to  the  chaj^el  and  tomb  of  the 
Virgin  Mary,  which  is  situated  on  the  western  slope  of 
Mt.  Olivet.  The  chapel  is  partly  below  the  common 
level  of  the  ground,  its  foundation  being  excavated  out 
of  the  native  rock,  and  has  an  ancient  appearance. 
On  entering  the  chapel,  we  descended  a  flight  of  sixty 
stone  steps,  through  a  dark,  gloomy  looking  passage- 
way. The  inside  of  the  chapel  is  decorated  in  a  gaudy 
manner,  and  on  the  wall  are  many  large  paintings  illus- 
trating scenes  in  the  life  of  the  Virgin.  From  the 
ceiling  are  susj^ended  fifty-six  gold  and  silver  lamps 
which  are  kept  continually  burning.  The  gloom  and 
solemnity  of  the  chapel  was  increased  by  the  light 
of  these  lamps  as  it  is  reflected  from  glass  shades  of 
various  colors. 

On  one  side  of  the  church  is  a  grotto,  cut  out  of  the 
rock,  highly  ornamented  and  lighted  with  lamps.  Con- 
nected with  this  grotto  is  the  tomb  in  which  the  Virgin 
Mary  is  said  to  have  been  laid,  and  near  it  is  the  tomb 
of  Joseph,  her  husband. 

On  the  south-west  side  of  the  city,  and  almost  under 
its  walls,  is  the  valley  of  Gehenna,  or  Tophet  of  the 
Bible,  where  in  ancient  times  all  the  filth  of  the  city 
was  thrown,  as  well  as  the  remains  of  persons  executed 
for  crime,  and  also  children  sacrificed  to  the  god  of 
Moloch,  until  God  by  the  prophets  pronounced  a  curse 
against  the  valley.  To  day  this  valley  is  used  in  part 
for  the  same  purjDOse.  Above  it  is  the  dirty  gate, 
through  which    the  filth    of  the   city  is  carried   to   be 


276  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

thrown  into  the  valley.  While  passing  along  here,  I 
found  the  smell  rising  from  decayed  matter,  and  dead 
animals  almost  unendurable.  South  of  this  valley  is  the 
Hill  of  Evil  Council,  and  beyond  it,  is  the  Potters'  field, 
or  Golgotha  of  Scripture,  covered  over  with  tombs  and 
catacombs.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley  is  the 
Mt.  of  Corruption,  where  one  of  the  wicked  kings 
built  a  temple  to  the  god  of  Moloch,  the  remains  of 
which  were  pointed  out  by  our  guide. 

At  the  junction  of  the  brook  Kedron  and  Gihon,  is 
that  part  of  the  valley  called  Hinnom,  sometimes  termed 
the  Universalists'  hell.  Near  this  is  the  king's  gardens, 
as  well  as  other  places  referred  to  in  the  Bible.  Here 
in  this  valley,  five  hundred  feet  below  the  city,  is  still 
to  be  seen  Joab's  well,  spoken  of  in  the  days  of  King 
David,  and  also  at  different  periods  of  the  Jewish 
history.  This  well  is  very  large,  walled  with  heavy  cut 
stone,  and  arched  over  at  the  top,  and  the  water  is 
drawn  from  it  with  leather  buckets  or  jars  attached  to  a 
rope  as  in  ancient  times.  Many  deep  creases  are  worn 
in  the  wall  by  the  rope  going  up  and  down  for  many 
centuries. 

West  of  the  city  and  in  the  valley  of  Gehenna,  are  the 
ruins  of  two  pools,  called  the  upper  and  lower  pool  of 
Gihon,  said  to  have  been  built  nearly  twenty-five  hundred 
years  ago.  These  pools  were  constructed  by  building 
high  stone  walls  across  the  valle}^  so  as  to  dam  the 
water  which  flows  in  it  during  the  rainy  season,  and 
thereby  retaining  a  supply  for  all  the  year.  Between 
these  pools  are  still  to  be  seen  the  remains  of  an  arched 


SURROUNDINGS    OF     JERUSALEM.  277 

aqueduct  across  the  valley,  which  at  one  time  conveyed 
water  from  the  pools  of  Solomon,  near  Bethlehem,  to 
the  temple  on  Mt.  Moriah. 

North  of  the  city  are  the  tombs  of  the  Judges,  and 
close  by  them  are  the  tombs  of  the  Kings.  These  tombs 
consist  of  catacombs,  or  large  chambers  cut  out  of  the 
rocks,  and  can  be  exj^lored  by  employing  guides  carrying 
lights.  I  had  spent  much  time  in  Italy  rambling  through 
the  dark  vaulted  chambers  of  the  dead,  and  had  no 
desire  to  visit  these.  Under  the  city  is  a  large  cavern 
made  by  taking  out  stone  for  building  purposes.  This 
cavern  is  said  to  contain  many  strange  things,  but  I 
cannot  vouch  for  the  truth  of  these  statements. 

Jerusalem  has  no  suburbs,  and  around  it  are  rocky 
barren  hills,  without  trees,  dwellings,  or  farming  land. 
But  within  the  last  ft-w  years  the  Emperor  of  Russia 
has  built  on  the  west  side  of  the  city  walls,  a  fine  Greek 
church,  with  other  buildings,  forming  quite  a  colony. 
About  a  half  mile  from  this  colony,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  valley  of  Gehenna,  a  wealthy  Jew  has  built  a 
number  of  houses,  terraced  the  land,  planted  vineyards, 
and  fig  trees,  restoring  it  again  to  its  former  fertility, 
which  is  in  strange  contrast  to  the  barreness  and 
desolation  surroundinir  it. 


PALESTINE  AS  IT  NOW  APPEARS. 

In  traveling  through  the  lands  of  Ephraim,  Dan, 
Benjamin,  and  Judah,  I  found  much  of  the  country  wild, 
barren  and  desolate,  consisting  of  mountains  of  rocks  and 

T* 


278  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

plains  of  sand.  In  many  places  where  cities  are  located 
on  the  ancient  map  of  Palestine,  nothing  now  remains 
but  i^iles  of  stone  from  ruined  wallSy  and  decayed 
buildings.  Along  the  slope  of  the  mountains  are  still  to 
be  seen  the  remains  of  walls  where  the  land  had  been 
terraced,  and  where  the  grape  and  fig  were  cultivated; 
but  now  it  is  an  open  common,  a  pasture  for  sheep  and 
goats.  In  places  where  streams  are  laid  down  on  maps, 
I  find  in  most  cases  a  dry,  rocky  hollow,  where  water 
runs  only  during  the  winter  rains.  The  water  to  supply 
the  country  is  found  in  wells  or  pools.  The  pools  are 
mostly  sunk  deep  into  the  ground,  arched  over  at  the 
top,  and  the  water  in  them  is  reached  by  long  flights  of 
stone  steps.  The  country  is  without  timber,  coal,  or 
peat,  and  the  fuel  mostly  in  use  here,  consists  of  roots 
from  a  shrub  that  grows  on  the  mountains. 

Palestine  according  to  history  was  at  one  time  a  very 
productive  country,  supporting  a  large  j^opulation  ;  but 
to  day  a  great  portion  of  it  is  uninhabited,  a  barren 
waste,  where  the  roving  bedouins  pitch  their  tents,  and 
the  hyena,  and  wild  boar  are]  undisturbed  by  human 
habitation.  Who  knows  whether  these  changes  are  the 
the  result  of  natural  causes,  or  a  judgment  of  the 
Almighty,  in  the  fulfillment  of  the  prophecy  which 
says,  "  Its  cities  shall  be  leveled,  and  its  highways  made 
desolate." 

Farm  houses  are  not  seen  in  the  country,  and  all  the 
inhabitants  live  in  villages,  so  as  to  protect  each  other 
from  bands  of  robbers,  who  are  all  the  while  roaming 
through   the    country.     People   on   the  mountains   are 


PALESTINE     AS    IT    NOW    APPEARS.         279 

principally  engaged  in  a  pastoral  life,  raising  sheep  and 
goats,  which  are  herded  on  the  mountains  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year.  The  goats  of  Palestine  are  mostly  black, 
and  the  sheep  are  generally  of  the  same  color,  some  of 
which  are  of  the  Lebanon  breed,  with  large  flat  tails. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  plains  are  engaged  in  cultivating 
the  soil,  where  they  raise  various  kinds  of  grain,  such  as 
wheat,  corn,  and  rice,  besides  sugar  cane.  Wheat  is  sown 
in  the  Fall  and  harvested  in  March  or  April.  Grass  is 
green  during  the  winter  months,  which  is  the  rainy 
season,  but  it  is  burnt  out  in  the  summer,  as  no  rain 
falls  here  between  March  and  Xovember. 

On  the  mountains  of  Judah,  which  are  elevated  nearly 
three  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  the  atmosphere  is 
bracing,  and  snow  sometimes  falls,  but  in  the  valleys  it 
is  always  warm.  In  traveling  on  the  plains  in  Decem- 
ber, we  found  the  heat  oppressive,  making  it  necessary 
to  carry  umbrellas  over  our  heads  to  shield  us  from 
the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  A  large  portion  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  plains,  both  male  and  female,  dress 
themselves  in  blue  cotton  gowns,  and  go  barefooted  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year. 

During  my  stay  in  Palestine  and  Egypt,  I  never  saw 
a  cloud  in  the  sky,  the  atmosphere  being  always  clear, 
with  the  sun  shining  in  all  its  brilliancy. 

In  Jerusalem  there  are  two  hotels,  the  Mediterranean 
and  Damascus,  which  are  kept  by  Europeans,  but  hotels 
are  not  found  in  other  parts  of  Palestine,  and  a  person 
traveling  through  the  country  is  obliged  to  camp  out. 
In  some  of  the  larger  towns  are  found  a  Greek  or  Latin 


280  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

monastery,  where  the  tourist  can  find  lodging.  East  of 
the  mountains  of  Judah,  and  along  the  Dead  Sea  and  the 
Jordan,  the  country  is  full  of  Bedouins,  or  robbers,  and 
to  visit  these  localities  it  is  necessary  to  be  accompanied 
by  a  guard  of  soldiers. 


EXCURSION  TO    JERICHO,  AND    DEAD  SEA. 

We  had  provided  ourselves  with  a  dragoman,  tents 
and  a  guard  of  Turkish  soldiers,  for  a  three  days  tour 
in  the  plains  of  Jericho.  But  at  Bethlehem  I  was  taken 
sick  and  returned,  while  the  party  continued  on  their 
journey  without  me.  Feeling  better  the  next  day,  I 
procured  the  services  of  a  dragoman  with  good  horses, 
and  by  sunrise  we  were  on  the  road  galloping  over 
the  mountains  in  the  direction  of  Jericho.  Two  miles 
from  Jerusalem  we  came  to  Bethany,  a  village  of  some 
twenty  houses,  and  partly  surrounded  by  olive  trees. 
Here  we  stopped  to  see  the  house  of  Mary  and  Martha, 
as  well  as  that  of  Simon,  the  leper.  We  also  visited 
the  tomb  of  Lazarus  which  consists  of  a  deep,  dark 
vault,  cut  out  of  solid  rock,  and  reached  by  a  long 
flight  of  stone  steps.  My  faith  in  these  traditions  is  not 
very  strong,  so  we  mounted  our  horses  and  were  again 
on  the  road.  Our  way  w^as  over  a  wild  looking  country, 
along  a  rocky  path,  under  leaning  rocks,  and  by  the 
side  of  frightful  precipices.  While  on  our  way,  I 
thought  of  the  man  spoken  of  in  Scripture,  who  in 
traveling  this  road,   eighteen    hundred   years    ago,  fell 


JERICHO^     AND     THE     DEAD     SEA.  281 

among  thieves,  and  I  was  fearful  of  meeting  the  same 
fate  myself. 

In  one  of  the  rocky  defiles,  we  saw  two  Arabs  at  work 
with  hammers  and  picks,  cutting  away  the  rock,  so  as  to 
procure  the  honey  of  wild  bees,  which  is  said  to  be  plenty 
among  these  cliffs.  The  dragoman  said  to  me  while  on 
the  road,  that  Ave  were  close  to  Elijah's  cave,  and  by 
going  a  mile  or  two  out  of  our  way,  he  would  show  m.e 
the  place  where  the  pro23het  was  miraculously  fed  by  the 
ravens.  But  having  already  seen  so  many  remarkable 
things  at  Bethany,  I  had  become  quite  skeptical  in 
regard  to  these  old  traditions,  and  declined  going. 

After  two  hours  ride,  we  came  to  a  point  which  over- 
looked the  plains  of  Jericho,  and  here  was  pointed  out 
the  location  of  the  three  Jerichos,  spoken  of  in  history. 
No  remains  of  either  of  these  ancient  cities  could  be 
seen  from  where  we  stood,  but  I  understand  that  ruins 
of  two  of  them  can  be  seen  among  the  sand  drifts.  The 
present  city  of  Jericho  is  only  a  cluster  of  Arab  huts, 
and  its  inhabitants  are  said  to  be  thieves  and  cut-throats, 
the  same  as  they  were  at  the  time  of  Christ. 

The  plain  of  Jericho  is  about  ten  miles  wide,  and 
was  once  noted  for  its  fertility,  being  called  the  land  of 
palms,  but  is  now  a  barren  waste,  covered  over  with 
drifting  sand.  This  plain  is  almost  without  trees, 
shrubs,  or  grass,  except  a  small  green  spot  around  the 
miserable  city  of  Jericho,  and  over  it  roams  undisturbed 
the  hyena  and  jackall.  Through  this  plain  flows  the 
river  Jordan,  but  from  where  we  stood,  I  could  not  see 
its   waters,  though  its  windings  were  visible  among  the 


282  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

willows.  We  could  see  the  mouth  of  the  river  Arnon, 
as  it  mixed  with  that  of  the  Jordan,  at  the  head  of 
North  Bay.  Far  beyond  the  Jordan,  were  seen  the 
blue  outlines  of  Mt.  Pisgah,  from  whose  summit  the 
Israelites  viewed  the  Promised  Land. 

Leaving  Jericho,  we  traveled  southward  along  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  mountain,  until  we  came  close  to 
the  Dead  Sea,  and  from  this  point,  all  of  its  surface 
was  visible.  This  sea  is  said  to  be  forty  miles  long, 
and  ten  miles  Avide,  but  in  the  clear  atmosphere  which 
surrounds  it,  a  person  would  think  it  less  than  half  that 
size.  Down  in  a  deep  valley,  thirteen  hundred  feet 
below  the  ocean,  lies  this  large  body  of  torpid  water, 
looking  clear  and  blue,  but  so  impregnated  with  saline 
matter,  that  no  living  thing  is  found  therein.  No  sails 
are  seen  on  its  surface,  nor  trees,  verdure,  nor  habitation 
along  its  shores,  but  stillness,  loneliness,  and  gloom 
reign  supreme,  and  well  may  it  be  termed  the  sea  of 
death.  Beyond  the  Dead  Sea,  were  seen  the  barren, 
rocky  mountains  of  Moab,  the  land  of  the  ancient 
Moabites,  among  whom  tourists  seldom  venture. 

From  where  .we  stood,  the  D  ead  Sea  appeared  almost 
under  us,  and  I  tried  to  prevail  on  the  dragoman  to  go 
with  me  to  itsshores,  so  that  I  might  bathe  in  its  waters. 
But  he  refused  to  go  saying  that  I  would  be  in  danger 
of  falling  into  the  hands  of  Bedouins,  who  frequently 
roam  through  this  country. 

I  had  heard  much  about  the  apples  of  Sodom,  and  felt 
a  great  desire  to  see  some  of  them.  Knowing  that  this 
fruit  is  only  found  in  the  vicinity  of  the   Dead  Sea,  I 


JEKICHO,     AND     THE     DEAD     SEA.  283 

offered  the  dragoman  additional  pay  if  he  would  show 
nie  some  of  them.  In  our  search  we  followed  down  a 
dry  wady,  until  we  came  to  a  plain  of  sand  and  rock, 
almost  at  the  edge  of  the  sea.  The  prospect  of  the  extra 
shilling,  which  I  had  promised  the  dragoman  caused  him 
to  forget  all  about  the  danger  of  Bedouins  and  we  were 
now  as  he  afterward  expressed  himself  on  dangerous 
o-round.  Among  the  rocks  and  sand,  we  found  a  small 
cluster  of  trees  which  resembled  stunted  haw-thorn,  and 
on  these  were  growing  the  celebrated  apple  of  Sodom. 
I  must  confess  that  I  was  much  disappointed  in  the 
appearance  of  the  fruit,  as  I  had  expected  to  find  large 
highly  colored  apples,  inviting  to  the  taste.  But 
instead  of  these,  were  seen  hanging  here  and  there  on 
the  trees,  small,  green  looking  fruit,  about  the  size  of  a 
Romanite.  The  fruit  had  not  yet  fully  matured,  some  of 
which  appeared  to  be  not  more  than  half  grown.  I  cut 
open  a  number  of  these  apples,  and  found  them  to  be 
porous,  and  extremely  bitter.  I  am  informed  when 
fully  ripe  they  are  of  a  yellow  color,  and  by  pressing 
them  in  the  hand,  will  dissolve  in  smoke  and  dust 
like  a  puff  ball. 

While  among  these  rocky  defiles,  another  fruit-bearing 
shrub  was  pointed  out,  which  is  called  carob,  or  locust. 
This  fruit  grows  in  a  pod  resembling  the  coffee  nut.  In 
some  parts  of  Palestine  it  is  said  to  grow  in  great 
abundance,  and  is  used  by  the  natives  as  an  article  of 
diet.  This  fruit  is  thought  to  be  the  same  spoken  o  f  in 
Scripture.     John  the  Baptist  is  said  to  have  lived   on 


284  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

locusts  and  wild  honey,  both  of  which   are   now  found 
here  in  the  wilderness  of  Judea. 

From  the  Dead  Sea,  we  shaped  our  course  homeward 
and   arrived  in  Jerusalem  at   sundown,  after   a  ride    of 
more  than  forty  miles  over  a  mountainous  country. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 


ROAD  FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  BETHLEHEM. 

Bethlehem  is  six  miles  south  of  Jerusalem,  and  the 
road  leading  thereto  runs  part  of  the  way  along  the 
sloj^e  of  the  mountain,  then  through  the  }3lains  of 
Rephaim.  Although  this  road  has  been  traveled  for 
more  than  three  thousand  years,  and  is  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal highways  of  Palestine,  it  shows  no  sign  of  ever  hav- 
ing been  worked,  and  over  it  no  wagon  or  carriage  has 
ever  passed.  Along  it,  the  scenery  is  wild  and  desolate, 
without  farms,  or  farm  houses,  but  here  and  there  are 
seen  large  piles  of  stone,  the  remains  of  ruined  castles, 
or  w^ateh  towers.  Two  miles  from  Jerusalem,  we  entered 
the  plains  of  Rephaim,  on  which  David  fought  two  bat- 
tles with  the  Philistines.  In  the  middle  of  the  road,  on 
these  plains  is  the  well  of  Rebecca,  or  Maji,  memorable 
for  many  events  narrated  in  the  Bible.  Around  this  well 
are  many  stone  troughs  for  watering  horses  or  camels,  and 
near  it  are  the  remains  of  ruined  buildings.  South  of  the 
Maji  well  on  high  ground,  overlooking  both  Jerusalem 


286  BEYOKD     THE     ATLANTIC. 

and  Bethlehem,  is  located  the  Greek  Convent  of  St. 
Elias,  or  Elijah.  This  convent  is  surrounded  by  a  high 
stone  wall,  giving  to  it  a  fort  like  appearance,  and  is 
said  to  occupy  the  spot  where  Elijah  rested,  when  fleeing 
from  his  persecutors. 

To  the  right  of  the  road  on  high  ground,  one  mile  from 
Bethlehem,  is  Rachel's  tomb.  Consisting  of  a  massive 
stone  structure,  built  like  a  Turkish  mosque,  and  orna-  I 

mented  by  a  dome.     The  Bible   says  as  Jacob  and  his  \ 

family  were  traveling  from  Bethel  to  Hebron,  Rachel 
fell  sick,  died,  and  was  buried  near  Bethlehem  by  the 
wayside,  and  a  pillar  was  erected^over  her  gi-ave. 

Having  parted  with  my  company  at  Bethlehem,  and 
returning  to  Jerusalem  along  this  road,  I  met  with  an 
adventure  which  was  both  exciting  and  mysterious. 
While  i-iding  slowly  along  the  rocky  road,  two  Arabs 
mounted  on  fine  horses,  and  carrying  in  their  hands, 
long  spears  of  polished  steel,  came  out  of  a  gorge  of  the 
mountain,  into  the  road.  These  men  placed  themselves 
in  the  road  before  me,  and  commenced  conversation,  but 
I  could  understand  nothing  they  said,  but  backsheesh. 
To  their  earnest  appeals,  I  only  shook  my  head,  which 
caused  them  to  be  more  bold  in  their  demands  for  money. 
For  some  way  they  continued  in  my  company,  occa- 
sionally stopping  before  me,  directly  in  the  path.  At 
last  they  rode  on  ahead  for  some  ways,  then  turning 
back  they  came  towards  me  on  a  full  gallop,  with 
their  spears  drawn  in  a  threatening  attitude,  and 
passed  by  me,  one  on  either  side.  Here  they  stoi^ped 
and    conversed    with    each    other   for    a   moment,  then 


BETHLEHEM.  287 

turned    their   horses    and    galloped    off    in    a    different 
direction. 

When  I  arrived  at  my  hotel  in  Jerusalem,  I  related 
this  strange  adventure,  and  people  expressed  different 
opinions  with  regard  to  it.  Some  thought  these  men 
were  government  rangers,  and  only  wished  to  show 
their  good  horsemanship,  while  others  believed  them  to 
have  been  Bedouins,  and  not  succeeding  in  frightening 
me  so  as  to  give  them  money,  left  again  for  their  old 
range.  These  Bedouins  are  sometimes  seen  on  the 
mountains,  and  even  around  the  walls  of  Jerusalem,  but 
were  never  known  to  commit  robberies  here,  as  they  are 
afraid  of  the  Turkish  soldiers.  But  on  the  plains  of 
Jericho,  they  rob  every  person  not  under  government 
protection,  sometimes  taking  all  their  clothes,  and 
turning  them  adrift  in  a  state  of  nudity. 


BETHLEHEM. 


With  the  exception  of  Jerusalem,  no  city  of  Palestine 
is  so  much  visited  by  tourists  as  Bethlehem.  Here 
Abraham  pitched  his  tent,  and  here  David  was  born, 
and  on  its  mountain  slopes  he  herded  his  sheep.  It  was 
here  Joseph  and  Mary  found  a  resting  place,  and  where 
Christ  made  his  advent  into  the  world.  Bethlehem  is 
said  to  contain  a  population  of  four  thousand,  a  large 
portion  of  whom  profess  to  be  Christians.  The  city  is 
built  on  a  hillside,  with  one  street  rising  above  another 
which  gives  to  it  a  formidable  appearance.     The  houses 


288  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

are  built  of  gray  stone,  flat  on  the  top,  and  many  of  their 
massive  walls  are  cracked,  giving  to  them  a  dilapidated 
appearance.  '  The  entrance  from  the  north  is  through  a 
high  arched  gateway,  being  a  relic  of  the  high  wall 
which  once  surrounded  the  city. 

As  we  rode  through  the  streets  of  Bethlehem,  men 
and  women  came  out  of  their  houses  and  shops  to  look 
at  us,  and  a  large  crowd  of  boys  followed  us  to  hold  our 
horses,  or  render  any  service  for  which  they  could  claim 
backsheesh.  A  large  portion  of  the  traffic  is  carried  on 
in  the  streets,  or  open  squares,  and  the  appearance  of 
the  people  engaged  in  trade,  is  in  keeping  with  the 
scene  of  poverty  and  desolation  which  surrounds  them. 
Here  were  old  men  sitting  on  the  ground  with  a  pile  of 
wheat  before  them  spread  out  on  a  cloth,  and  selling  it 
by  the  quart.  Here  too,  were  women  seated  on  mother 
earth,  selling  trinkets  and  calling  on  each  passerby,  with 
piteous  tones,  saying,  "  For  the  sake  of  Christ,  or  of 
God,    and  Mohammed,  come  and  buy  of  me." 

On  high  ground  in  the  east  part  of  the  city,  is  located 
the  Church  of  the  Nativity,  said  to  be  built  over  the  cave, 
or  mano-er  where  Christ  was  born.  This  church,  or 
convent  was  built  by  Empress  Helena,  A.  D.  325,  and 
contains  two  chapels,  and  a  large  reception  and  dining 
room,  to  accommodate  pilgrims  visiting  Bethlehem. 
The  building  is  surrounded  by  a, massive  wall,  through 
which  are  loop-holes,  for  placing  cannon,  to  be  used 
in  time  of  war,  causing  it  to  look  more  like  a  fort  than 
a  church  or  convent. 

A  monk  carrying  a  lighted  candle  led  us  down  a  long 


SUEEOUNDINGS    OF     BETHLEHEM.  289 

flight  of  Steps  into  the  basement,  showing  ns  the  cave, 
or  grotto  cut  out  of  the  native  rock,  where  Christ  Avas 
born.  Over  the  entrance  of  this  cave  is  a  marble  slab, 
on  which  is  a  large  silver  star,  of  some  twenty  inches  in 
diameter,  and  around  this  is  engraved  in  Latin,  these 
words,  "  Here  Jesus  Christ  was  born  of  Virgin  Mary." 
Around  the  star  and  motto  are  suspended  sixteen  silver 
lamps,  which  are  kept  continually  burning.  Here  are 
gold  and  silver  ornaments,  as  well  as  large  paintings 
illustrating  the  advent  of  Christ. 

To  the  right  of  the  holy  grotto  is  to  be  seen  the  altar 
of  innocence  consecrated  to  the  babes  whom  Herod 
caused  to  be  slain  in  hope  of  destroying  the  infant 
Christ,  and  beyond  it  is  the  cave  where  the  dead  bodies 
were  thrown. 

We  were  shown  in  this  basement  the  chapel,  and 
studio,  of  St.  Jerome  where  he  spent  much  of  his  life. 
In  this  dark  and  gloomy  vault,  more  than  fourteen 
hundred  years  ago  he  wrote  his  celebrated  works. 
Close  by  the  chapel  of  St.  Jerome  excavated  out  of  the 
native  rock,  and  faced  with  marble,  is  to  be  seen  his 
tomb,  containing  many  interesting  things  which  relate  to 
the  departed  saint. 


SURROUNDINGS  OF  BETHLEHEM. 

In  the  suburbs  of  Bethlehem  are  many  grottos  cut 
out  of  the  rock,  similar  to  the  one  under  the  Church  of 
the  Nativity,  the  traditionary  birth  place  of  Christ. 
These    grottos    are   principally    used    as    stables    for 


290  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

camels  and  donkeys,  but  a  few  of  them  are  occupied  as 
dwellings  for  the  poorer  classes.  The  land  around  Beth- 
lehem, unlike  Jerusalem,  is  quite  fertile,  with  cultivated 
fields,  and  orchards  of  figs  and  olives.  On  these  fields 
are  many  watch  towers,  where  the  guards  are  quartered 
to  protect  the  crops  from  the  depredations  of  robbers. 

It  was  in  one  of  these  fields,  Ruth  gleaned  after  the 
reapers,  and  here  the  sons  of  Jesse  were  at  work  when 
the  prophet  Samuel  came  to  annoiut  David,  King  of 
Israel. 

A  short  distance  from  Bethlehem  is  a  narrow  valley 
covered  with  fields  of  grain,  and  green  pastures,  among 
which  is  a  small  Arab  village  called  Etham.  The  land 
in  this  valley  is  irrigated  by  afountain  which  flows  close 
by,  and  by  that  means  two  crops  a  year  are  raised 
oflT  the  same  land.  Here  the  grass  was  green,  with 
wheat  and  rice  fields  almost  ready  for  harvest,  while 
vegetation  in  other  parts  of  Palestine  was  burnt  out  by 
the  summer  drouth.  Within  the  last  few  years,  excava- 
tions have  been  made  in  this  valley  which  have  brought 
to  light  many  interesting  things.  Among  the  ruins 
discovered,  are  the  remains  of  a  large  building,  with 
a  marble  floor  inlaid  with  mosaic  work,  and  in  the 
rear  of  this,  are  a  number  of  baths,  also  constructed  of 
marble.  This  place  is  thought  to  be  the  site  of  ancient 
Etham,  where  Solomon  had  his  gardens  and  vineyards. 

In  this  valley  are  the  celebrated  pools  of  Solomon, 
which  have  been  so  much  commented  upon  by  writers 
upon  Palestine.     Here    are   three   pools    or    reservoirs, 
averaging    about   four   hundred    feet   in    length,    three 


SURROrNDINGS  OF  BETHLEHEM.     291 

hundred  feet  in  width,  and  forty  feet  in  depth.  These 
pools  are  partly  cut  out  of  the  rock,  with  walls  built  on  the 
lower  side,  and  coated  with  cement.  They  rise  one 
above  another,  so  that  the  same  water  flows  through  all 
of  them.  The  water  to  supply  these  pools  comes  from  a 
spring  some  distance  above,  and  enters  them  by  a 
subterranean  passage  through  the  rocks.  These  pools 
are  always  full  of  water,  and  from  them  is  an  aqueduct 
which  conveys  it  to  Bethlehem,  two  miles  distant. 

From  the  pools  of  Solomon,  there  is  an  old  aqueduct 
now  in  ruins,  which  in  former  times  conveyed  the  water 
to  Jerusalem,  six  miles  distant.  This  aqueduct  is  con- 
structed of  heavy  masonry,  and  follows  the  windings  of 
the  hill,  so  as  to  keep  nearly  on  a  level.  In  some  places 
it  is  underground,  then  crossing  valleys  on  arched 
bridges,  and  along  rocky  cliffs,  until  it  reaches  the  temple 
wall  on  Mt.  Mori  ah.  We  followed  the  course  of  this 
aqueduct  in  many  of  its  windings,  and  examined  some  of 
its  bridges,  one  of  which  crosses  the  valley  of  Gihon. 
This  bridge  is  about  three  hundred  feet  long,  and  fifty 
feet  high. 

All  writers  agree  that  this  great  work  was  done  by 
Solomon,  as  many  allusions  are  made  to  it  in  the  Bible. 
Josephus  speaks  of  a  place  called  Etham,  six  miles  from 
Jerusalem,  where  Solomon  had  gardens  and  vineyards. 
Here  he  also  built  pools  and  brought  the  water  from 
them  into  the  temple,  on  Mt.  Moriah. 


292  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 


VISIT  TO  MT.  NEBY,  AND  KUINS  OF  MIZPEH. 

Leaving  Jerusalem  early  in  the  morning,  we  made  a 
visit  to  the  ruins  of  Mizpeh,  which  on  account  of  their 
historical  associations,  are  considered  the  most  interest- 
ing in  Palestine.  While  on  the  road  to  Mizpeh, 
and  some  four  miles  north-west  of  Jerusalem  we  came 
to  the  valley  of  Philistia,  in  which  is  situated  a  small 
Arab  village.  Near  this  village  is  a  piece  of  table-land 
partly  surrounded  by  rocky  cliifs  which  is  pointed  out  as 
the  place  where  David  killed  Goliah.  As  we  left  this 
valley  and  while  passing  through  the  village,  we  saw  at 
some  distanc  e  a  woman  engaged  as  we  supposed,  in 
hanging  a  dog.  Turning  our  horses  in  that  direction, 
to  our  surprise,  we  found  that  she  was  churning.  The 
cream  was  in  a  goat  skin  which  hung  by  the  neck  to  a 
limb  of  an  olive  tree,  on  which  she  had  a  rope  tied,  to 
spring  the  limb  up  and  down,  to  produce  the  butter. 
The  long,  black  hair  of  the  goat  skin,  with  its  legs  and 
tail  flopping  up  and  down  by  the  springing  of  the  limb, 
looked  like  an  animal  in  the  agonies  of  death.  This 
churn  for  ease  and  convenience  of  working,  certainly 
exceeds  all  of  the  new  Yankee  patents  now  in  use. 

Three  miles  from  the  valley  of  Philistia,  we  came  to 
Mt.  Neby,  on  which  once  stood  the  city  of  Mizpeh,  the 
home  and  burial  place  of  the  prophet  Samuel.  We 
visited  what  is  said  to  be  the  prophet's  tomb,  which 
consists  of  a  vault  cut  out  of  the  rock,  and   surrounded 


RUINS      OF      MIZPEH.  298 

at  the  mouth  with  heavy  masonry.  Around  this  tomb, 
Christian,  Jewish  and  Mohammedan  pilgrims,  alike, 
are  seen  to  weep  and  pray,  and  from  it  the  Bi,ble  says 
the  witch  of  Endor  caused  the  dead  prophet  to  come 
forth. 

Here  on  Mt.  Neby,  Samuel  called  Israel  together  to 
elect  a  king,  when  the  choice  fell  upon  Saul.  Then  for 
the  first  lime  in  Israel  the  multitude  shouted  "  God 
save  the  king."  Eight  hundred  years  ago,  the  crusaders 
built  a  convent  here,  the  remains  of  which  are  still  to  be 
seen,  and  close  by  it,  are  the  ruins  of  a  Mohammedan 
mosque.  These  ruins  and  large  piles  of  stone  lying 
around  among  Arab  huts  are  all  that  now  remain  to 
mark  the  spot  where  once  stood  the  populous  city  of 
Mizpeh. 

Mt.  Neby  is  the  liighest  point  in  this  vicinity,  and 
from  it  a  fine  view  of  the  country  can  be  obtained,  over- 
looking the  plains  of  Sharon,  and  the  Mediterranean  Sea. 
I  had  seen  much  fine  scenery  among  the  Alps,  but 
nothing  to  equal  this.  The  clearness,  and  transparency 
of  the  atmosphere  is  such  that  objects  twenty  or  thirty 
miles  off"  appear  close  by.  From  here  Remlah,  Lydda, 
Joppa,  and  other  cities  of  the  plain  can  be  seen. 
Although  it  was  December,  the  weather  was  quite 
warm,  and  appeared  like  a  bright  June  day,  without 
wind  or  clouds. 

The  name  of  this  mountain  does  not  occur  in  Scrip- 
tures, but  frequent  allusion  is  made  to  the  places  situated 
upon  it,  and  deeds  which  there  occurred. 

K* 


294  BEYOND      THE     ATLANTIC. 


ETJINS  OF  GIBEON,  AI,  AND  GILBAH. 

« 

Six  miles  north  of  Jerusalem  on  a  high  hill,  once 
stood  the  city  of  Gib  eon.  This  was  one  of  the  royal 
cities  of  Israel,  as  well  as  a  city  of  refuge,  but  it  is  now 
only  a  small  Arab  village,  contaiiiing  nothing  to  show 
its  former  greatness.     Through   the  village,  and  along  J 

the  slope  of  the  hill,  are  large  piles  of  stone,  the  remains  1 

of  riiined  buildings,  with  here  and  there  a  relic  of  a 
temple,  or  palace,  to  mark  the  spot  where  once  stood  a 
royal  city. 

On  the  slope  of  the  hill  below  the  village  is  still  to  be 
seen  the  pool  of  Gibeon,  which  is  so  often  referred  to  in 
the  Bible,  and  where  great  events  have  occured,  which 
are  narrated  therein.  It  was  here  at  this  pool,  Joab 
and  Abner  met  at  the  head  of  their  respective  armies  of 
Judah,  and  Israel,  and  fought  that  memorable  battle,  in 
which  many  of  the  combatants  of  both  armies  were 
slain.  Below  the  pool,  lies  the  plain  of  Gibeon,  which 
is  also  memorable  for  the  past.  This  plain,  although 
small,  shows  more  fertility,  and  is  better  cultivated  than 
any  place  that  I  have  seen  on  these  mountains.  This  is 
thought  to  be  the  place  where  Joshua  attacked  the 
Amorites,  and  on  that  account  is  visited  by  almost  every 
person  traveling  through  Palestine.  The  Bible  says 
Joshua  with  his  invading  army  marched  from  his  camp 
at  Gilgal,  and  attacked  the  Amorites,  on  the  plains  of 
Gibeon,  and  in  order  to  complete  his  victory,  he  com- 
manded the  sun  to  stand  still. 


RUINS   OF    GIBEOX,    AI,    AND    O  I  L  B  A  H  .       295 

We  next  visited  the  ruins  of  Ai,  which  was  located 
on  a  hill,  as  most  all  the  ancient  cities  of  Palestine 
were.  This  was  the  first  city  after  Jericho,  that 
Joshua  took  in  his  conquest  of  the  Proiuised  Land. 
Nothing  now  remains  of  this  city,  but  heaps  of  stone 
scattered  over  the  barren  hill,  without  habitation,  tree, 
shrub,  or  vegetation  of  any  kind,  or  even  one  green 
thing  on  which  the  eye  can  rest. 

Traveling  north-east  from  here,  we  came  to  Ramah, 
the  birthplace  and  residence  of  the  prophet  Jeremiah. 
Further  on  we  came  to  Gilbah,  spoken  of  in  the  Bible, 
as  the  largest  city  in  the  land  of  Benjamin,  and  the 
scene  of  a  number  of  battles,  in  one  of  which  the  tribe 
of  Benjamin  was  almost  annihilated.  This  city  was  also 
the  home  of  Saul,  and  seat  of  his  government  during 
the  greater  part  of  his  reigu.  From  Gilbah,  we  went 
north  in  the  direction  of  Bethel.  The  country  through 
which  we  passed  is  wild,  barren  and  desolate,  being  a 
continuation  of  hill  and  dale,  over  rocky  cliffs,  and 
crossing  dismal  gorges.  The  inhabitants  here  are  rough 
in  appearance,  and  have  a  savage  look.  In  some  places 
they  would  collect  around  us  in  large  numbers, 
demanding  money  for  the  privilege  of  traveling 
through  their  country.  A  Sheik  of  one  of  the  villages 
offered  to  accompany  us,  and  protect  us  from  harm,  it 
we  would  pay  him  ten  shillings,  but  we  declined  his 
services. 

This  part  of  the  country  is  said  to  be  full  of  cut- 
throats and  robbers,  and  some  think  it  unsafe  to  travel 
through  it  without  a  guard,  but  no  one  attempted  to 


296  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

molest    us.     Further   than    the    annoyance   of  beggars, 
we  had   no  difficulty. 

While  on  these  mountains,  we  fell  in  with  a  party  of 
women  and  boys,  Avho  were  engaged  in  collecting  snails 
to  sell  in  market.     These  snails  are  considered  a  great 
luxury  by  people    here,  and    are    served    up    at    all    the 
fashionable  hotels  in  the  Orient. 

While  on  the  Jerusalem  and  Galilee  road,  we  met  a 
caravan  of  Arab  pilgrims  from  Damascus,  and  on  their 
way  to  Mecca.  In  this  caravan  there  were  about  fifty 
camels  loaded  with  men,  women,  and  children,  while 
other  camels  were  loaded  with  tents,  provisions,  etc. 
On  the  backs  of  some  of  these  camels  were  placed  large 
saddles,  with  a  guard  or  railing  around  the  top,  so  the 
whole  family  could  sit  around  it,  without  being  in 
danger  of  falling  off. 

In  a  village  among  the  rocky  defiles  of  the  mountain, 
I  saw  many  houses  built  against  rocks,  wdiich  form  one 
side  of  the  building,  and  in  a  few  instances,  families  were 
living  in  grottos,  which  were  cut  out  of  the  rocky  clifi*. 

The  sun  was  now  getting  low  and  our  dragoman 
informed  us  that  the  gates  of  Jerusalem  would  be  closed 
at  dark,  and  there  would  be  no  admittance  into  the  city 
after  that  time.  We  had  many  miles  to  ride  over  a 
rocky  country,  and  the  dragoman  put  his  horse  on  a 
canter,  and  we  followed  after  in  Indian  file,  at  a  speed 
that  w^as  really  frightful,  but  we  reached  the  city  in 
time  to  be  Jldmitted,  and  devoted  the  remainder  of  the 
evening  to  reflection  on  what  Ave  had  seen  among  the 
mountains  of  Judea. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


RETURN  TO    EUROPE. 


On  the  fifth  of  December  we  bid  afinal  adieu  to  Jeru- 
salem, and  commenced  our  homeward  tour,  reaching 
Paris  on  the  sixteenth  day.  At  Joppa  we  boarded  an 
Austrian  steamer,  running  between  Constantinople,  and 
Alexandria.  As  the  steamer  weighed  anchor  and  put 
to  sea,  we  gave  a  long,  farewell  look  at  the  Holy  Land, 
a  country  alike  dear  to  Christians,  Jews,  and  Mahom- 
medans,  the  land  of  the  patriarchs,  prophets,  and 
apostles. 

The  steamer  was  two  days  in  her  passage  to  Alexan- 
dria, distant  by  the  way  of  Port  Said,  three  hundred 
and  twenty  miles.  Along  the  Egyptian  coast  for  fifty 
miles,  the  water  was  muddied  by  the  Nile,  which  was 
in  strikins:  contrast  to  the  clear,  blue  water  of  the  sea. 
In  sailing  down  the  coast,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Aboukir 
Bay,  where  in  1797,  Lord  Nelson  destroyed  the  French 
fleet. 

On  arriving  at  Alexandria,  I  found  a  French  steamer 


298  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

about  to  sail  for  Marseilles,  France.  Hurrying  to  the 
shipping  office,  I  bought  a  ticket  for  seventy  dollars  and 
succeeded  in  getting  aboard  while  the  ship  was  weighing 
anchor;  but  owing  to  the  rough  sea,  she  was  unable  to 
leave  port  until  the  next  day. 

The  entrance  to  the  harbor  of  Alexandria  is  both 
difficult  and  dangerous,  and  requires  an  experienced 
pilot  to  steer  clear  of  rocks  and  sandbars.  When  the 
sea  is  rough,  vessels  will  not  attempt  to  enter,  or  leave 
port.  At  Alexandria,  as  well  as  other  ports  on  the 
Mediterranean,  no  large  vessels  can  approach  the  shore 
but  are  obliged  to  lie  at  anchor  some  distance  off,  and 
passengers  and  freight  are  carried  back  and  forth  in 
small  boats. 

Parting  with  my  company  at  Alexandria,  I  found 
myself  aboard  of  a  steamer  where  no  one  could  speak, 
or  understand  the  English  language,  and  during  ten 
days  which  was  occupied  in  making  a  passage  of  nearly 
two  thousand  miles,  I  was  left  to  my  own  meditations. 
On  this  steamer,  as  well  as  other  French  vessels  on  which 
I  have  traveled,  there  are  but  two  meals  a  day,  break- 
fast at  eleven,  and  dinner  at  six.  These  meals  consist 
of  a  great  variety  of  dishes  on  the  table  d'hote  plan. 
Wine,  and  brandy  are  used  as  a  part  of  the  fare.  After 
eating,  an  hour  or  more  is  spent  at  the  table,  drinking 
coffee,  brandy,  and  smoking  cigars.  Notwithstanding 
the  liquor  was  free  to  all,  I  never  saw  a  person  who 
appeared  to  be  under  its  influence.  On  this  steamer, 
frogs  and  snails  were  generally  served  up  at  dinner. 
The   snails    were   large,    and  served    up   in  the    shell. 


RETTJEN     TO     EUROPE.  299 

Those  fond  of  snails  would  take  their  plate  full  of  them 
and  pull  the  snail  out  of  its  shell  with  a  silver  tong  made 
for  that  purpose,  when  it  is  taken  into  the  mouth,  horns 
and  all. 

On  this  steamer  was  a  fat,  red-faced  Dutchman,  who 
was  a  steerage  passenger,  and  like  myself,  found  no  one 
aboard  of  the  ship,  who  could  speak  his  language.  This 
Dutchman  had  a  great  fondness  for  fishing,  and  he  had 
prepared  himself  with  a  line  the  size  of  a  bed  cord, 
on  the  end  of  which,  was  a  hook  sufiiciently  large  to 
hold  a  shark.  The  line  was  tied  to  the  stern  of  the 
ship,  and  late  and  early,  he  was  seen  watching  it,  fre- 
quently drawing  it  in  to  examine  the  bait.  One  day 
while  the  Dutchman  was  at  dinner,  some  mischievous 
fellows  hauled  in  the  line,  and  tied  thereon  an  old  pair 
of  boots,  and  an  old  rug,  weighing  it  down  with  a 
broken  frying  pan.  The  Dutchman  soon  discovered  that 
he  had  caught  something  large,  and  news  went  over  the 
steamer  that  a  shark,  or  some  other  monstrous  fish  was 
caught,  when  everybody  ran  to  the  hurricane  deck  to 
see  it.  The  Dutchman  with  hat  and  coat  off*,  and  sweat 
running  down  his  face,  commenced  bawling  in  the  line. 
We  off*ered  to  assist  him,  but  he  refused  all  assistance 
preferring  to  retain  all  the  honor  and  profit  to  himself. 
But  when  the  prize  was  hauled  on  deck,  he  raised  his 
hands  in  astonishment,  scarcely  crediting  his  own  eyes, 
and  showing  the  most  woe-begone  expression  that  I  ever 
saw.  But  when  he  saw  us  laughing,  he  understood 
that  a  trick  had  been  played  on  him,  which  put  him 
into  a  terrible  rage.     With  rapid  jestures,  he  commenced 


800  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

yelling  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  not  one  word  of  which 
we  could  understand,  but  supposed  that  he  was 
blessing  us. 

When  the  weather  is  fair,  a  sail  on  the  Mediterranean 
is  very  interesting,  as  the  atmosphere  is  not  so  liable  to 
foo",  or  mist,  as  on  the  Atlantic,  and  islands,  and  points  of 
mainland  can  be  seen  at  a  great  distance. 

The  European  coast  as  far  as  I  have  seen,  is  moun- 
tainous, and  destitute  of  timber,  while  the  African,  and 
Asiatic  coast  is  flat.  On  this  sea  are  frequently  seen 
large  shoals  of  flying  fish,  which  at  a  distance  look  like 
a  flock  of  white  ducks.  When  the  sea  is  rough,  these 
fishes  can  only  fly  from  wave  to  wave,  but  on  a  smooth 
sea,  they  will  fly  a  long  ways,  occasionally  dipping  their 
wings  into  the  water  to  wet  them,  then  rise  again. 
When  the  night  is  dark,  phosphorous  lights  are  seen  by 
the  side  of  the  ship,  sometimes  of  such  brilliancy,  as  to 
appear  like  a  continuous  sheet  of  fire. 

On  our  way  we  went  close  to  the  island  of  Candia, 
and  followed  its  coast  for  more  than  one  hundred  miles, 
which  gave  us  a  fine  view  of  its  snow-capped  mountains. 
Our  next  sight  of  land  was  the  outlines  of  Mt.  xEtna, 
although  more  than  one  hundred  miles  distant,  was 
visible  to  the  naked  eye,  and  appeared  like  a  great 
pyramid  rising  out  of  the  sea.  Passing  the  strait  of 
Messina,  with  Sicily  on  one  side,  and  Calabria  on  the 
other,  we  enjoyed  a  view  of  beautiful  landscape  scenery, 
probably  not  equalled  on  the  Mediterranean.  North  of 
Sicily  are  located  the  Lipari  Islands,  consisting  of  a 
group  of    small    islands,    each     of    which    contains    a 


TOUE  THKOUGH  FRANCE.         801 

mountain.  These  islands  with  their  mountains,  look  at 
a  distance  like  huge  hay  stacks  scattered  over  a  level 
plain.  Among  this  group  of  islands,  is  one  called 
Tumberly,  containing  a  volcano  that  is  always  in 
eruption,  sending  forth  smoke,  with  flames  of  fire,  and 
it  is  called  the  light  house  of  the  Mediterranean.  Our 
ship  passed  this  island  after  dark,  and  the  light  from 
its  summit  was  so  great,  that  a  person  could  see  to  read 
on  deck. 

The  direct  course  from  the  strait  of  Messina  to  Mar- 
seilles, lies  between  the  islands  of  Sardinia  and  Corsica, 
but  owing  to  the  rough  sea  the  captain  was  afraid  to 
risk  his  ship  near  the  rocky  coast  of  these  islands,  and 
therefore  went  between  them  and  the  Italian  coast. 
We  passed  close  to  the  island  of  Elba,  where  Napolean 
was  exiled.  Farther  up  the  coast,  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  Leghorn,  and  Genoa.  It  was  after  dark  when  we 
passed  the  cities  of  Nice  and  Toulon,  and  could  see 
nothing  but  their  beacon  lights. 


TOUR  THROUGH  FRANCE. 

Marseilles  is  the  most  commercial  city  on  the  Med- 
iterranean, and  is  the  common  center  of  trade  for 
southern  Europe.  It  has  two  harbors,  an  inner,  and  an 
outer  one,  both  of  which  were  full  of  ships.  The  new 
part  of  the  city  is  well  built,  with  many  wide  streets 
and  high  houses,  and  presents  a  constant  hum  of 
business. 


302  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

Two  hundred  and  twenty  miles  north  of  Marseilles, 
in  the  vallejr  of  the  Rhone  is  located  the  city  of  Lyons, 
containing  nearly  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants. 
This  city  is  built  on  a  hill,  under  a  hill,  and  along  the 
side  of  a  hill,  having  narrow  streets,  and  high  houses. 
On  every  street,  is  heard  the  clicking  of  the  silk 
looms.  Lyons  excels  every  other  city  in  Europe,  in 
the  silk  manufactories,  and  from  that  source,  it  has 
derived  its  wealth  and  importance. 

On  the  road  to  Paris,  and  fifty-nine  miles  south  of  it,  we 
came  to  the  beautiful  little  city  of  Fontainebleau,  a 
place  identified  with  French  history.  The  city  contains 
a  royal  palace  with  beautiful  flower  gardens,  among 
which  are  paved  driveways,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  native 
forest  of  some  miles  in  length,  which  belongs  to  the 
government  of  France.  It  was  here  Napoleon  made  his 
last  defence  against  the  allied  forces,  and  from  here  he 
was  exiled  to  Elba. 

It  is  nearly  six  hundred  miles  from  Marseilles  to  Paris, 
most  of  the  way  through  a  fine  farming  country, 
where  the  land  is  level  and  rich,  and  in  which  are 
many  beautiful  cities.  In  the  southern  part  of  France 
the  fig  and  olive  is  cultivated,  and  here  are  extensive 
vineyards,  as  well  as  orchards  of  peaches,  prunes, 
and  apples.  Having  traveled  through  France  in  three 
different  directions,  and  at  different  seasons  of  the 
year,  gave  me  a  good  opportunity  to  see  the  country. 
These  observations  caused  me  to  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  is  the  best  country  in  Europe,  and  is  under 
the  highest  state  of  cultivation  of  any  except  England. 


HOMEWARD    BOUND.  803 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  I  arrived  in  Paris, 


and  I  told  the  hackman  to  drive  me  to  ray  old  quarters, 
the  Grand  Hotel  d'Orleans,  where  I  might  see  some 
familiar  faces.  Although  eight  months  had  elapsed 
since  I  left  Paris,  and  my  beard  had  grown  during  that 
time,  to  nearly  a  half  foot  in  length,  as  soon  as  I 
entered  the  court  of  the  hotel,  I  found  myself  surrounded 
by  waiters,  clerks,  and  proprietors,  shaking  me  by  the 
hand,  with  JBon  jour  Monsieur  Matson. 

Three  months  had  elapsed  since  hearing  from  home, 
but  on  going  to  my  bankers,  I  found  a  large  package  of 
letters  awaiting  me,  some  of  which  were  from  parties 
with  whom  I  had  traveled  in  my  various  rambles 
through  Europe. 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 

After  a  stay  of  a  few  days  in  Paris,  I  continued  my 
journey  homeward,  by  way  of  Dieppe,  and  New  Haven. 
On  arriving  in  London,  it  appeared  strange  to  hear 
everyone  speaking  English,  after  being  eight  months 
among  people  with  whom  I  could  not  converse. 
Here  I  could  communicate  with  everyone,  and  make 
all  necessary  inquiries ;  a  pleasure  that  no  person  can 
appreciate,  unless  he  has  traveled  in  foreign  countries. 
It  was  Christmas,  and  for  three  days,  business  places 
were  closed,  while  the  streets  were  full  of  well  dressed 
people  hurrying  to  and  fro,  enjoying  the  holidays. 
Here  and  there  was  heard  the  merry  laugh  of  children 
at  the  reception  of  their  Christmas   presents.     But  it 


304  BEYOND     THE      ATLANTIC. 

was  not  so  in  some  of  the  poorer  districts  of  London, 
where  people  are  dependant  on  each  day's  labor,  and 
the  suspension  of  business  even  for  a  few  da_ys,  leaves 
many  to  starve. 

Taking  a  cab,  I  made  a  visit  to  Shadwell,  .a  noted 
place  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city.  Here  poverty, 
ignorance,  and  vice  reigns  supreme,  exceeding  anythino- 
I  have  ever  met  before.  No  toy  shops  are  seen  here  to 
gladden  the  hearts  of  the  little  ones,  but  at  one  corner 
of  almost  every  street,  there  is  a  dirty  beer  shop,  while 
on  the  opposite  corner,  is  its  principle  support  and 
mainstay,  a  pawnbrokers  office.  The  half  naked 
children  playing  in  the  dirty  streets  were  evidently 
unconscious  that  it  was  a  day  of  pleasure  and  universal 
merry-making.  At  the  corners  of  dark,  narrow  streets, 
groups  of  gloomy  looking  men  were  seen  standing ;  not 
conversing  with  each  other,  but  waiting  in  expectation 
that  some  one  would  pass  in  search  of  laborers. 
Here  haggard  looking  women,  with  tattered  dresses, 
and  in  some  cases  barefooted,  were  seen  passing  through 
the  streets,  begging  from  each  passer-by. 

On  some  of  the  doors,  bills  were  posted,  offering  to 
lodge  persons  for  two  pence  per  night.  This  place  has 
the  appearance  of  decay;  many  of  the  shops  were 
closed,  and  the  words,  "  To  let,"  appear  on  almost  every 
house.  In  the  worst  part  of  th-is  miserable  locality 
I  was  surprised  to  come  suddenly  upon  four  large  blocks 
of  imposing  buildings,  known  as  Peabody  Square 
These  buildings  were  erected  by  Mr.  Peabody,  the 
American   banker,  for  the   benefit  of  the   poor,    where 


HOMEWARD     BOUND.  305 

thej'^  can  obtain  apartments  at  a  lower  rate  than 
elsewhere,  and  the  unfortunate  tenant  will  not  be 
turned  out  of  doors,  at  the  first  failure   to   pay  the  rent. 

In  London  a  person  will  be  surprised  at  the  shortness 
of  the  days  in  mid-winter,  and  to  me  having  made  a 
sudden  transit  from  the  south  it  was  more  apparent. 
In  dull  weather,  the  city  is  mostly  enveloped  in  fog  or 
smoke,  sometimes  both,  which  makes  it  difficult  to  do 
business  before  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  gas 
is  frequently  lighted  at  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  thirty-first  inst.,  I  left 
London  for  Liverpool,  two  hundred  and  two  miles 
distant.  The  train  moved  with  that  velocity  peculiar 
to  the  English  express,  which  is  unequaled  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world.  Soon  the  great  metropolis  of  the 
world  faded  in  the  distance,  its  locality  only  being  marked 
by  the  dense  cloud  of  black  smoke,  which  ever  hovers  over 
this  abode  of  wealth,  poverty,  and  crime.  The  first  place 
of  interest  on  the  road  was  Oxford,  which  is  famous 
for  its  institutions  of  learning.  The  next  was  Warwick 
containing  the  old  castle  where  once  lived  the  celebrated 
Earl  of  Warwick,  who  is  called  by  historians  the  king 
maker.  Farther  on  we  crossed  the  river  Avon,  near  the 
city  of  Stratford,  the  native  place  of  Shakespeare.  Then 
through  Birmingham,  a  large  manufacturing  city  con- 
taining three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  called 
the  toy  shop  of  Europe.  At  last  the  black,  smoky  city 
of  Liverpool  was  reached,  and  my  travels  in  the  east 
were  at  an  end,  as  I  sailed  the  next  day,  in  the  steam 
ship  Cuba,  for  New  York. 


806  BEYOND      THE      ATLANTIC. 

CROSSING  THE  ATLANTIC. 

Twenty-four  hours  sail  on  the  Irish  Sea,  brought  us 
to  Queenstown,  where  we  took  on  a  few  passengers, 
and  eighty-four  bags  of  mail,  and  again  put  to  sea. 
Soon  the  outlines  of  the  Irish  coast  faded  in  the  distance, 
and  we  bade  farewell  to  Europe.  On  the  second  day 
out  from  Queenstown,  a  terrible  gale  arose,  which  con- 
tinued for  three  days,  causing  much  sea  sickness  among 
the  passengers.  At  each  plunge  of  the  vessel  into  the 
foaming  billows,  she  would  ship  tons  of  water,  which 
would  roll  off  her  decks  as  she  rose  on  the  sw^ells, 
only  to  go  down  again  as  before.  All  communica- 
tion with  the  deck  was  closed,  and  during  the  long 
winter  nights,  the  bells  of  the  watch,  and  the  hoarse 
notes  of  the  speaking  trumpet  conveying  orders  to 
different  parts  of  the  ship  could  be  heard  above  the 
roaring  of  wind  and  waves.  Most  of  the  j^assengers  kept 
their  state  rooms  on  account  of  sea  sickness,  and  the 
large  dining  hall  was  almost  deserted.  At  one  time 
only  four  of  us  answered  to  the  summons  of  the 
stew^ard's  call. 

On  the  fourth  day  the  wind  abated,  when  people 
came  on  deck  to  look  out  for  whales  and  sharks,  and  to 
amuse  themselves  in  watching  the  antics  of  sea  gulls, 
and  mother  Carry's  chickens.  Large  flocks  of  the  for- 
mer followed  the  ship  across  the  Atlantic,  to  pick  up 
crumbs  thrown  from  the  table.  Each  day  a  reckoning 
was  made,  showing  the  latitude,  and  longitude  of  the 
ship,  and  the  clock  was  changed  to  the  true  time. 


CROSSING    THE     ATLANTIC.  307 

One  day  it  was  announced  at  the  cabin  door,  that  a 
whale  was  in  sight,  when  we  all  ran  to  the  hurricane 
deck  to  see  the  monster,  but  were  disappointed  to  find  it 
about  three  miles  off,  so  that  we  could  only  see  its 
spouting.  While  looking  at  the  water  thrown  up  by 
his  whaleship,  another  whale  appeared  much  closer, 
and  we  could  see  his  huge  body  every  time  he  came  up 
to  spout. 

On  the  thirteenth  day  out,  we  had  a  complete  calm, 
when  the  great  Atlantic  became  perfectly  smooth,  and 
enveloped  in  fog,  which  required  the  ringing  of  the  bell 
once  a  minute,  through  the  day,  to  prevent  collision 
with  other  vessels.  One  hundred  miles  from  New  York, 
we  took  on  board  a  pilot  to  conduct  us  into  port.  This 
pilot  had  been  ten  days  at  sea  in  a  pilot  yacht,  looking 
for  a  job.  He  had  with  him  a  large  bundle  of  dailies 
which  were  eagerly  sought  for,  although  ten  days  old. 

On  the  fifteenth  day  from  Liverpool,  we  landed  in 
New  York,  when  the  ship  was  besieged  by  a  regiment 
of  custom  house  officers,  and  my  baggage  underwent  an 
examination  for  the  thirty-seventh  time  since  I  left 
home. 


I 


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